Make the clutch last longer

bonecore

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Please validate True or False ... the following statements:
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1)If the clutch is pressed all the way in or depressed all the way out you are not producing wear and tear on the clutch.Only at times when the clutch is partially pressed .. those are the times that produce wear and tear.

2)Having max torque 300Nm vs having max torque 350Nm and only flooring it if clutch is depressed all the way out... makes little to no difference in clutch wear

3)Reving it and poping the clutch very fast or riding with clutch partially pressed causes high wear and tear on the clutch.

4)flooring it in 2nd gear(no clutch) gives more wear than flooring it in 6th gear(no clutch)

5)flooring it below 40mph gives more wear than flooring it above 40mph

6)having exact torque=300Nm between 1500 to 5000 rpm. Same gear, clutch depressed ... flooring it at lower rpm=2000 rpm gives less wear than flooring it at 4000 rpm.

7)perfect revmatching gives very little wear on the clutch
 
The clutch friction plate is rather like a circular set of drum brake shoes. They wear out eventually due to the friction of the brake shoe rubbing on the inside of the brake drum.
Due to the disc brakes of your car, your wheels become dirty as the pad material wear away. The pads get thinner as they wear away.
Thinking of the clutch plate, the more it is slipped in normal stopping and starting, the faster the friction material wears away. This is why drag starts reduce the life of a clutch drastically. The friction plate becomes thinner and so the clamping force from the pressure plate springs lessen. Eventually there is not enough clamping force and so the clutch will slip when the torque and load on the car is highest.
This will start to appear in the higher gears first and when you are racing up the gearbox when giving it lots of beans.
This is why custom remappers can back off the torque until there is no slip but eventually it will slip anyway.
So a car where the clutch is engaged and disengaged with minimum slip by the driver will last a lot longer than a car that has to go up a steep hill in a slow queue of traffic every day or a car that does drag starts from the traffic lights on a regular basis.
When I was a boy the old lady in the house opposite had a new clutch every year in her Morris Minor. Any slow manoeuvres in our road were done at max revs and so the clutch would die very quickly.
 
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I can see that only No. 7 in your list will reduce clutch wear. Basically the less time the clutch is used the less wear will happen. If you buy an auto/Stronic/DSG you don't have to worry anyway :smile new:
 
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I can see that only No. 7 in your list will reduce clutch wear. Basically the less time the clutch is used the less wear will happen. If you buy an auto/Stronic/DSG you don't have to worry anyway :smile new:

Haha ... yes thanks
i actually just figured out by searching web... and here are the results i got:

More wear on the clutch when engine/clutch/transmission is under heavier load (quattro gives more wear than 2wd, 6th gear gives more wear than 2nd gear, more people in the car gives more wear)

so after i go to stage2 directly i will try to not use 6th gear and do perfect shifts :)

things to avoid
-avoid planting the throttle to the floor in 6th gear
-avoid fast launching (clutch partially pressed)

things to do
-perfect rev-matching
 
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since i've read somewhere that my 2006 a3 2.0tfsi has same clutch as the 2006 s3 then i am thinking i will be safe to tune my car up to the quoted s3 specs:
265HP at 6000 rpm
350Nm at 2500-5000 rpm
 
You have to assume that tuning any car passed what it was designed for is going to result in more stress and wear. This results on more parts being changed more often and of course more expensive to run such a car. If you had a kit car like my yellow bathtub pictured on the right, it requires much love and affection since most of them are tuned well beyond their original spec.
 
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:yes:Some have 'S3Alex power in them' , I'm not kidding :yes:
 
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