Changing rear discs and pads a3 8l 1.8t

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sparkyork

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Hi all, I'm going to be changing my discs and pads tomorrow on the rear, just had a look and can't see any info anywhere. Any tips on offer? I'm familiar with doing fronts but not sure how the handbrake integrates etc. I have a 7mm brake caliper tool somewhere

Cheers

Rich
 
You need a caliper rewind tool ideally too. Otherwise you can't retract the pistons. Other methods can be employed but you risk damaging the piston or seals if you are unfamiliar with the process
 
Ahhh don't have one of those ! Might have to go gingerly and ease pistons back in using other methods! So nothing really much different to changing the fronts then
 
ye easy enough, i just done my rears yesterday. take off the 2 bolts, from memory on the S3 i needed a 14mm and 15mm spanner. the caliper then comes away.

get the disk off, the new disk is a tight fit to get it back on as the hub and caliper carrier is a tight squeeze but it will go.

rewind the caliper with the correct tool (can get it from halfords for £15~)

new pads in and caliper back on,

NB - handbrake needs to be off and also open the brake reservoir before rewinding the piston. also a little cooper grease on the rear of the pads prevents squeaky brakes.
 
Cheers chaps, just tried half ores but they were shut! Brakes are proper dodgy and really shouldn't be driving it. Could I get by with pliers or long nose pliers? Can they stick slightly and need the tool to exact enough leverage to rewind ?

Cheers

Rich
 
If I can get to half ores I hope it is about £15 haha
 
You'll need to remove the carriers to get discs on. You may get away with grips and that but it's dead easy to tear seals trying to wind back a sticky piston
 
Cheers, I've got a 7mm Allen wrench somewhere is that good for the carriers ? Think I'll have to get halfords ideally, never used one before I presume it'll only wind in one way
 
i didnt need to remove the carriers, old ones came out fine, new ones needed a gentle tap to get in.
 
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If the piston isn't to stiff you can wind them back in with circlip pliers.
 
Might give it a whirl improvising in the morning, if need be I can borrow me mates motor to go halfords, bit concerned at the quoted price for the tool ranging from 15-30 odd sheets, think I'll be staying vag for a while so would prob get used again lol
 
Just checked halfords site and £32 ! Outrageous ! There's a 32 piece set on eBay for £15 covering different brakes lol got a local moto save so might ring them in morning.
Does the piston sit in some kind of helical grooves? I don't get why it needs rotating unless it's just to guide it in?
 
Did this 2 weeks ago. You need a thin 15mm spanner. I ended up grinding 1 down to undo the carrier bolts. Just a tip
 
Cheers mark, I've just borrowed a piston rewind set off my mate, looks like I might be struggling with a thin 15mm spanner!
 
Looks like it's gonna be a long job! The two 7mm Allen key bolts on the caliper seem a but iffy! Top one takes a 8mm Allen and the bottom one is sloppy with a 7 and an 8 fractionally too big, looking at the two 12 - 13 mm bolts that seem to connect the two halves of the caliper together now, is it ok to remove these ?
 
Got one side done, hubs pretty tight and not allowing it spin very well.
Once I've got other side done do I just pump up the brakes to let them adjust?
 
sparkyork said:
Got one side done, hubs pretty tight and not allowing it spin very well.
Once I've got other side done do I just pump up the brakes to let them adjust?
Click to expand...
Yeah that's it mate make sure you pump brakes
 
Cheers mark, just got drivers rear done, disc pads were in much better nick that passenger side! I defo fully wound in drivers rear and whelk spins quite well, I'm thinking I might not have fully wound in passengers side? Should I split calliper again and make sure too save initial probs or just pump em up and go for a spin?
 
Fully wind both sides in mate. Mine had a slight catching noise but went off in about 5 miles
 
audi upgrades
****** lol I'll jack it up and make sure itsd fully wound in, did look like it wasn't compared to pass side, gotta say after initially thinking I needed the 8mm Allen bolts cracking it's turned out to be a nice easy job, just a 13mm 15mm spanner and winding in tool. Happy days hopefully, will report back after adjusted drivers side.
 
Lol glad your on the right road. By time iv done with my a3 il be a master technician. Fix 1 thing next one ****** breaks lol
 
Yeah cheers mark, they do seem quite well planned for maintainence though.
Just wound pass piston fully in, and noticed lower caliper slider is stiff or seized, doesn't push in and out like top one, gonna douse it in wd, unless there's some tips on getting this sliding properly as I'm anticipating problems with it been seized
 
sparkyork said:
Yeah cheers mark, they do seem quite well planned for maintainence though.
Just wound pass piston fully in, and noticed lower caliper slider is stiff or seized, doesn't push in and out like top one, gonna douse it in wd, unless there's some tips on getting this sliding properly as I'm anticipating problems with it been seized
Click to expand...
I used copper grease on mine. The metal slider at the bottom I removed as it was badly corroded mate
 
Just got it freed off will use copper grease as you say. Nearly test drive time!
 
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