Water / Methanol General Questions
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Doogie...
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Keep us updated with pics and details Mario. Il be doing mine next so will be good to see how you get on in case i get stuck and need to reference how you installed it.
Will try my best m8.
As I might try doing the install in 1 day (hopefully). Or I might only route the cables and pipes and fit my controller as my throttle pipe haven't arrived nor did my water methanol tank.
I'll keep you posted
PS the aquamist kit is anther story in regards to wiring and controller compared to the AEM. Aquamist kit needs to have 6 wires connected to the car's ECU
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Chess m8
My kit should be here the day after tomorrow!
Will be looking forward to do my install
Keep us up to date with how it goes.
Good luck!
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Doogie...
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Alex, What are using as your Water meth mix?? 50/50 pre-mix or are you using screenwash??
Trying to research what is best, would quite like to run the 50/50 mix but i dont fancy paying around £35 posted for 5l of the pre mixed stuff and i feel as if the 30/70 mix in screenwash would be not as beneficial for the set-up i'm going to be running.
Where can i get Methanol cheapish and mix myself? Does anyone know if the water needs to be distilled or can I use tap water??
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You can get pure methanol for way less than that.
My local model shop will do 5L of methanol for under £10,and Halfords sell demineralised water for around £5 for 5L.
Dont use tap water,esp in hard water areas,as the nozzle will eventually fur up.
I got a RO treatment water filter under the sink. From googling around seems that I can normally use it to mix with methanol. What do you think?
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As long as it's deionised( as an RO filter should) then it should be fine.
Doogie...
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Pure methanol from my local model shop,plus Halfords demin water.
IIRC,10L of that mix amounts to about £14-15
Alex is it better to mix 10liters of methanol with 10 liters of water and store them in a 20 liter gallon?
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All I do is to mix up 5L at a time....get a 5L container and make a 50% mix in that...it doesn't have to be absolutely precise,but certainly no more than 50% methanol,as the benefits of colling start to decline with mixes above 50% methanol.
Guys can you help with calculating jet size for my setup?
Attached the graph / guide from Aquamist.
Highest specified boost from my logs is 2540 mbar.
From googling around seems like the s3 injector flow 1217cc/min.
Do you think I should also install a restrictor in my jet?
Attached the graph / guide from Aquamist.
Highest specified boost from my logs is 2540 mbar.
From googling around seems like the s3 injector flow 1217cc/min.
Do you think I should also install a restrictor in my jet?
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Hi Mario,
I'd suggest having a word with Rick,as he's mapped your car,and getting the ideal flow rates from him if you can.
With the AEM it's a lot easier,basing the jet size on boost and bhp.
I'd suggest having a word with Rick,as he's mapped your car,and getting the ideal flow rates from him if you can.
With the AEM it's a lot easier,basing the jet size on boost and bhp.
Doogie...
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Alex, took a trip in to Halfords at the weekend and could only find De-ionised water for £3.99 for 5 litres. Will this be safe to run??
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Finished fitting the reservoir and pump, plus arranged all cables, relay, and main hose in trunk. Routed them to rear door and called it a day.
Next step complete the +cable and hose routing to the engine compartment.
Them I'll start disassembling my glove compartment and to have my controller mounted inside.
Lastly route the controller wires to the engine compartment, solder the wires to the ECU harness and start fitting the nozzle and solenoid.
Hoping to continue working on Saturday. Might take till Sunday to have everything sorted out and fitted nicely
Next step complete the +cable and hose routing to the engine compartment.
Them I'll start disassembling my glove compartment and to have my controller mounted inside.
Lastly route the controller wires to the engine compartment, solder the wires to the ECU harness and start fitting the nozzle and solenoid.
Hoping to continue working on Saturday. Might take till Sunday to have everything sorted out and fitted nicely
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System is 99.9% fitted. Just need to fit my throttle pipe and nozzle.
Hopefully I'll test the system tomorrow before I fit the throttle pipe and nozzle.
When I switch the system/gauge off the car doesn't boost at all. That's the failsafe feature
I'll keep you guys posted. Hoping to have some pictures posted by tomorrow.
PS ****** my pants when we started soldering the ECU wires lol.
Hopefully I'll test the system tomorrow before I fit the throttle pipe and nozzle.
When I switch the system/gauge off the car doesn't boost at all. That's the failsafe feature
I'll keep you guys posted. Hoping to have some pictures posted by tomorrow.
PS ****** my pants when we started soldering the ECU wires lol.
unless i've misunderstood your post mate i wouldn't call that a failsafe. i'm not trying to be smart, i just don't want you doing any damage to your engine...
for what its work i'm planning to install a solenoid to vent boost pressure from the wastegate on failsafe activation...
You are correct guile I spoke too soon
I managed to trigger the failsafe while WOT and its something else. Car was boosting perfectly at load then booooom no more boost till after system automatically reboots 5-10 seconds. All this testing is done before adjusting any parameters on the gauge/controller itself, and of course zero modification to my current tune.
Going to keep testing with water injection alone to get a good idea and understanding of everything before doing anything crazy
Thanks for your advise guile
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As Guile says,and you've found out,the failsafe is different,and should be triggered automatically,and electronically.
To be honest,one of the reasons for going with a system like AEM,was to avoid any direct connection with the main ECU,which although the best solution in the end,is unlikely to make significant impacts on a road car,and also means a LOT more to potentially cause headaches.
Good luck in sorting it.
To be honest,one of the reasons for going with a system like AEM,was to avoid any direct connection with the main ECU,which although the best solution in the end,is unlikely to make significant impacts on a road car,and also means a LOT more to potentially cause headaches.
Good luck in sorting it.
Thank you guile
Managed to fully test the system yesterday using the user manual and thank god everything is working really well. Glad ended up like this as everything was done correctly from the first attempt.
Cant hear the pump in the back when operated.
Not sure if I'll need to mount it using some bolts to the trunk floor.
I made sure to have the black spongy material to be cut precisely to fit the sides of the pump snugly. And used the pump bracket including the rubber fittings to avoid any rattling in the trunk when operated.
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Guys do you know anyone running the same system on the same car? Need to ask them a couple of questions
Hi Mario,
Your best bet might be the Aquamist forum....
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/
I hope so.
As Richard from Aquamist couldn't help that much.
My switched 12v from the ECM has a 15 minute delay to switch off when I turn the ignition off. So now I have to switch the system off from the gauge whenever I leave the car.
My switched 12v from the ECM has a 15 minute delay to switch off when I turn the ignition off. So now I have to switch the system off from the gauge whenever I leave the car.
not the neatest of solutions but you could always wire it to the ignition so that when ever you turn your key back it cuts the power to the controller...
Guess I can also just use my headlight switch too. As I already have my boost gauge taped into it.
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Hahahahha I bet its a simple chemical reaction
Have to ask my son....LOL
He works for a petrochemical company that makes race fuels etc.
I'm just a user!
