A3 dies at 90 degrees and cranks but wont start until below 70, please can anyone help???

Mike Monti

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Hi team
Ive had a good trawl through this and related forums for help but haven't found my issue discussed so forgive me if its a common problem, I have tried to find the answer.

I have had one problem in my a3 for about a year and another more serious problem developing more recently with my 2001 A3 8L 1.8L APG engine Im hoping someone has already solved and could share???
a few months ago I popped up to the store about 5 minutes up the road.
Got back in the car and it cranked over fine but wouldnt fire, about 15 minutes later it started and was fine.
This happened about 3 times over a period of a few months, generally after only short trips.
Recently its started cutting out while driving, generally at low speed approaching lights when changing into neutral. Then wont start. for 20 minutes or so then runs fine again. Last time this happened twice in a trip home from work, 20km, it was a particularly warm day.
I can replicate the problem in the garage by starting it and waiting for engine to get hot then it cuts out and wont start.
Coolant level is fine, is circulating and heating up as normal.
Ive been investigating and it appears what is happening is when the car reaches 90 degrees and the fan should kick in the car dies.
I can stop it from happening by keeping the fan running by keeping the air con on. Though now the weather is getting hotter, 32 degrees Celcius today, if I get stopped at lights for to long I wind up stuck, had to push car through a right hand turn today after cut out in front of a big rig. Thanks to a solid bloke who came to my rescue.
I have been monitoring the 49C level on the climate control and the cut out happens when the water temp is in the 80s and it wont start again until this temp drops below 70. I found by removing the "clutch fuse 17" fuse the fan comes on low speed and will stay on even when the engine is not running.
I have disconnected the coolant sensor and shorted the terminals to make the fans go slow and fast, which works fine.
I have checked the fuses above the battery, all fine, no corrosion and removed all the fuses by the drivers door and checked them one at a time.
Interestingly removing the clutch fuse 17 the fan kicks in then stays on even when the car is turned off. I thought this was interesting as if the fuse failed the fan would stay on until the battery went flat??
Anyway, Ive pulled all the relays out from behind the steering wheel and checked the contacts, which all appear fine.
I tried to check resistance across the crank position sensor but couldn't get a reading.
I really am at a loss to exactly what the problem is, any help would be appreciated :)

Second issue less of a major but car from time to time loses power while driving like its lost 3 cylinders, runs rough, like it still drives but its not very happy, usually dropping down a gear and running at higher revs keeps it from stalling, then it goes away.
Have replaced fuel filter, coil pack but no real change, about to replace HT leads and sparks but not sure this will address.
She had an oil leak from the rocker cover gasket so spark plug recess was filled with oil, gasket has been addressed.
As a side the oil sensor yellow light has also started coming on, at about 60 degrees I took the pan off and gave it a good clean out, nothing of note in the mesh, oil is fresh and level is fine, seems as soon as car warms up, sensor alert comes on, after a few minutes it goes off and comes back on a but later. low pressure alarm never goes off so not sure if its a sensor problem or a real problem.
Any ideas appreciated :)
Thanks
Mike
 
Hi Tufty
Thanks for your prompt response, I don't know how to find fault codes? I checked through all the climate control variables and nothing seemed out of place.
Cheers
 
Cutting out when hot might be related to the camshaft sensor, or so I've heard. My A3 (AGU) has the same problem, when parking it for a short while when the engine's properly warmed up, wont fire up. Letting it cool for a little while solves it. I haven't gotten around to replacing the sensor, but I've been told it can be the cause of this issue.
 
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Hi team
I got the vcds going and it points out a number of faults including the major suspect
16706 engine speed sensor g28 :no signal
Po322 -35-10-----intermittent

Also
00562 sensor for oil level/temperature g266 29-10 short to ground--intermittent

Lots of notes about shareware version to decide all dtcs is that important???

17511 oxygen lambda sensor heating b1 s1 performance to low p1103 35-10 intermittent

Does this mean the crank angle sensor needs replacing and the oil level sensor needs a proper earthing?

Interestingly I sat in the garage and made car get to 90 and stop. And no extra fault got thrown up. But lately when driving it's only been getting into mid 70s and its stopping. Hot days aren't helping.

Thanks everyone for your kind support:)
 
A faulty crank sensor (engine speed sensor) will cause the engine to cut out

The note from VCDS is just to let you know that you would get all the fault descriptions if you register... you can of course find most of them online here..
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

There appears to be a wiring fault with the oil level sensor although this could also mean a faulty sensor too... check the wiring for this before replacing it of course... you may need to trace it back as it could be a trapped wire further up the loom so not immediately obvious

The Lambda fault suggests a faulty sensor too... quite an important sensor this one..

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks tuffty you really go above and beyond the call of duty. I do have a hole in the inlet between the air box and the throttle body, where the oil fumes get fed back in its 90% broken off. I replaced the whole tube 12 months ago but it fell apart already so I put the old one back on till I can figure out a sturdy t joint to replace it.
Anyway I guess that might be upsetting the lambda sensor? Where is that?
 
You need to fix the airleak for a start really... these engines can cope with small ones but its never a good idea to have one knowingly :)

The lambda sensor has a built in heater circuit... needs to get the lambda up to at least 300 degrees for it to work... the fault is the result of it not getting to the right temp with in a certain time frame so suggests the sensor itself will need replacing... the sensor is located in the downpipe between the turbo and the flexi...

<tuffty/>
 
Hi team
Update for all
I cleared all the faults and fitted anew crank position sensor and the world seems a better place already. I was surprised to see the sensor was covered in black oil and grime I cleaned it and reinstalled but it didn't improve so replaced. Should it be oily like that? Now I have to work on that air leak. And the lamda sensor.
 
Sensor pokes through to inside the block mate... its gonna get covered in oil and stuff... being magnetic it will also attract a little swarf etc as the engines wears

<tuffty/>
 
Hi team
Ive had a good trawl through this and related forums for help but haven't found my issue discussed so forgive me if its a common problem, I have tried to find the answer.

I have had one problem in my a3 for about a year and another more serious problem developing more recently with my 2001 A3 8L 1.8L APG engine Im hoping someone has already solved and could share???
a few months ago I popped up to the store about 5 minutes up the road.
Got back in the car and it cranked over fine but wouldnt fire, about 15 minutes later it started and was fine.
This happened about 3 times over a period of a few months, generally after only short trips.
Recently its started cutting out while driving, generally at low speed approaching lights when changing into neutral. Then wont start. for 20 minutes or so then runs fine again. Last time this happened twice in a trip home from work, 20km, it was a particularly warm day.
I can replicate the problem in the garage by starting it and waiting for engine to get hot then it cuts out and wont start.
Coolant level is fine, is circulating and heating up as normal.
Ive been investigating and it appears what is happening is when the car reaches 90 degrees and the fan should kick in the car dies.
I can stop it from happening by keeping the fan running by keeping the air con on. Though now the weather is getting hotter, 32 degrees Celcius today, if I get stopped at lights for to long I wind up stuck, had to push car through a right hand turn today after cut out in front of a big rig. Thanks to a solid bloke who came to my rescue.
I have been monitoring the 49C level on the climate control and the cut out happens when the water temp is in the 80s and it wont start again until this temp drops below 70. I found by removing the "clutch fuse 17" fuse the fan comes on low speed and will stay on even when the engine is not running.
I have disconnected the coolant sensor and shorted the terminals to make the fans go slow and fast, which works fine.
I have checked the fuses above the battery, all fine, no corrosion and removed all the fuses by the drivers door and checked them one at a time.
Interestingly removing the clutch fuse 17 the fan kicks in then stays on even when the car is turned off. I thought this was interesting as if the fuse failed the fan would stay on until the battery went flat??
Anyway, Ive pulled all the relays out from behind the steering wheel and checked the contacts, which all appear fine.
I tried to check resistance across the crank position sensor but couldn't get a reading.
I really am at a loss to exactly what the problem is, any help would be appreciated :)

Second issue less of a major but car from time to time loses power while driving like its lost 3 cylinders, runs rough, like it still drives but its not very happy, usually dropping down a gear and running at higher revs keeps it from stalling, then it goes away.
Have replaced fuel filter, coil pack but no real change, about to replace HT leads and sparks but not sure this will address.
She had an oil leak from the rocker cover gasket so spark plug recess was filled with oil, gasket has been addressed.
As a side the oil sensor yellow light has also started coming on, at about 60 degrees I took the pan off and gave it a good clean out, nothing of note in the mesh, oil is fresh and level is fine, seems as soon as car warms up, sensor alert comes on, after a few minutes it goes off and comes back on a but later. low pressure alarm never goes off so not sure if its a sensor problem or a real problem.
Any ideas appreciated :)
Thanks

Hello Mike! Did u ever sort this issue!? My son's car has the same issue. 2010 1.6 Audi A3. 90 degrees cuts out. Won't restart no spark but cranks. When does start no problems untill 90 again.
I replaced the crank sensor to a cheap one. Drove car 1day then same issue. Replaced with a Hella sensor which way more expensive. Same problem.

I will order the OEM Audi part but thinking it must be something else.

I really hope u still on here to reply. :)