Coolant Loss!!

[Lz36]

Hi, I'm new to this forum as I have just purchased a 2004 2.0 FSI Audi A3.

Only problem with the car is that I have noticed that it is losing coolant. Before I bought the car the garage put in a new ABS pump as the ESP light was on the dashboard. Also I was told the coolant was completely flushed out to do this.

So I called the garage and they told me its because of that, that the coolant has dropped (its circulating or whatever). And to just top it up. I've checked the floor under the car after a couple nights, and no leaks.

Any ideas what it could be?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Geraldy212]

Top it up with the correct coolant (not water) and watch it for a few days. It is a closed system, and should not drop. If it does, go back to the garage and insist they pressure test the cooling system, and also look carefully at the radiator (corners) and hoses for leaks. A small leak of hot coolant may evaporate quickly and not drip onto the floor. Worst case it may be leaking due to a crack in the cylinder head. Let's hope it's not that, but if so it should be covered by the garage. Good luck.

 

[NHN]

Welcome to the site.

Yes top it up as it may still be burping, as its known, to remove air in the system, so see if it drops again.

Hows it starting in the mornings, any smoke?

Check the rad top corners after a good drive, also get someone to pressure the coolant system to 1-1.5 bar to check for leaks, this showed my rad leak.

 

[Lz36]

thanks for reply mate, I have watched it for a week and it has only gone down a fraction. But today it had dropped down to almost empty. I left the car for about an hour and the coolant has slowly risen up again. But I will check it out tomorrow morning for any leaks.

 

[Lz36]

Thanks!
Ok I will do, it hasnt dropped that much in the past week of watching it. Only today! I'll check for the leaks tomorrow morning after a drive. But theres no smoke when I start it up in the morning.

 

[NHN]

Could be burping, mine did this the other day & we pressure tested it to 1.25 bar for about 8 hours & it didnt budge, so must have just been this as I topped up & it doesnt seem to have dropped, watching it everyday though.

 

[Lz36]

Oh right ok, I hope it is that then.

Can getting it pressure tested determine weather there is a crack in the cylinder head or not? And are there any other signs? Because apart from the coolant, the car runs perfectly.

 

[NHN]

It will prove there's a leak yes, then as system will be pressured standing you can look for any external leaks.

 

[Lz36]

Ok then, I'll get that checked out.

Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it.

 

[Lz36]

Just to follow up. I took it to my local garage for them to check for leaks as it has still been dropping slowly. And I have a leak in the top left (looking from under the car).
I called the garage I bought it from as its still under warranty and they have booked it in for tomorrow morning.

What I wanted to know is if anyone had a rough idea of how long it will take to fix this problem. Big job? Small job? Just so I have some sort of idea before I go along.

Thanks!

 

[Geraldy212]

If it is just a case of tightening up a hose clip, then it would take perhaps half an hour = small job. If it is a radiator leak, then several hours to exchange the rad for a new one = small job. If it is more serious, then several days of delay while they get parts and the labour to fit them = big job. Good luck.

 

[Lz36]

Ok ok, thanks for that mate. Hopefully they will sort it all out tomorrow

 

[Lz36]

Sorry I was meant to say the leak was in the top left of the radiator. But thanks

 

[NHN]

2-3 hours tbh as jacking up, dropping coolant, removing fan unit, remove rad, refitting all & refilling, letting it burp itself etc, takes time.

 

[Lz36]

Just a follow up. I had my radiator replaced by the garage as it was leaking.

Only problem now is the coolant dropped almost back down to minimum a week later. I topped it up about a week ago, it dropped slightly, but now seems to be ok.

Funny thing is, yesterday it was on max. And I went for a 30 min drive down to a friends and the coolant had dropped to just above minimum. So I thought let me top it up, opened it and the coolant level rised back up to max....

There is no oil in the coolant, but there is a slight bit of that mayo-looking stuff on the oil cap, BUT I do small journeys and I've heard that could be condensation, plus its freezing outside!

There is no white smoke, the heating is fine, temp stays on 90 when heated up. But knowing my luck the coolant will probably drop again in a few days time. Its driving me mad. I've booked it back in at the garage for tomorrow but has anyone else come across this before? I keep thinking its the headgasket as I had headgasket problems with my previous car so I'm a lil paranoid.

Thanks in advance!

 

[NHN]

Relax for now, its probably burped itself, which inturn has dropped the coolant lower, that's normal, just check it everyday for a week or 2 & if it stays static then its fine.

 

[Mikemc]

Coolant during abs pump change? I bet they have just used the repair kit and isn't it brake fluid that is flushed?

 

[Lz36]

I took it in and just got back. Apparently there was a loose clip on the rad which I was a bit "hmm" about. Also I just checked the coolant as they topped it up and k seal has been put in it ....... I said why would you do that, and he said just for peace of mind. Really?

And mike I'm not sure because that's what I was told. NHN I would of left it but I just had a bad feeling.

Any suggestions now though? Because I seriously don't trust these "mechanics".

 

[NHN]

The rad has push fit connectors with a locking clip, but if this was loose then it would of pushed of with the pressure, I reckon the o-ring wasn't in place properly which then wasn't sealed tight.

Why would you put k-seal in if its the rad & this was swapped out anyway, very strange, tbh that may or may not create a problem later, but see how you go.

 

[Lz36]

Thanks for replying, ok ok I see, well that makes sense but the k seal has just got me scratching my head. Unless there trying to cover up that there is a leak in the head gasket. I just don't know!

 

[Lz36]

Quick update,

the cars back in the garage and yesterday they said its pointing to the head gasket but they have done a sniffer test and compression test and these are coming up fine.

I got a call this morning saying that they are going to put a new thermostat in as it could be that. Do thermostats actually cause coolant loss? As the car doesnt overheat or have any problems with the temp.

Does anyone know if this will be an actual fix or just a cheaper alternative than addressing the main problem

 

[dk1234]

What was the out come, did it get sorted?

 

[Geraldy212]

Lz, No..... thermostats do not cause coolant loss. They simply regulate the amount of coolant flowing through the radiator. When the coolant temperature in the engine gets to around 90 Dec C, they open and allow coolant to flow through the radiator and then maintain the coolant temperature at a set level.

 

[Chillout]

I find it a bit funny why they put k seal in as if they found a leak why add a leak sealer especially when it say in the owners manual not to however I have heard they are bad for radiators as when I bought mine the parts guy said it was very common. Is your oil cap covered in mayo or can you smell anti freeze in the car as it could be your heater matrix however if its been pressure tested they should have located it .

 

[JudderMan]

Is it not a leak from the coolant reservoir? You said it was leaking from the top left? I assume that's where the reservoir is....

I bought a spare for my 8L as apparently it's common for them to have hairline cracks. Once there is some pressure build up it expands and weeps coolant.

 

[paultaylor]

Sorry to hijack thread but over the last few weeks the coolant light has come up on my wife's 2007 2.0 Tdi 170 dsg, 45k miles due a service in three months.

The level seems ok but my main concern is that it seems to take much longer to get up to temperature, 15 minutes before it's a 75 degrees and then quite slow to get to 90 degrees

It starts ok but can be very shuddery when starting from cold(quite bad last winter)

Strangest part is there has been a transmission noise and worse mpg since the mechatronics and clutch packs were changed.

Any thought on coolant or any of the above would be greatly appreciated

thanks

 

[JudderMan]

Sorry to hijack thread but over the last few weeks the coolant light has come up on my wife's 2007 2.0 Tdi 170 dsg, 45k miles due a service in three months.

The level seems ok but my main concern is that it seems to take much longer to get up to temperature, 15 minutes before it's a 75 degrees and then quite slow to get to 90 degrees

It starts ok but can be very shuddery when starting from cold(quite bad last winter)

Strangest part is there has been a transmission noise and worse mpg since the mechatronics and clutch packs were changed.

Any thought on coolant or any of the above would be greatly appreciated

thanks

Sounds like thermostat or coolant sensor related.

 

[paultaylor]

Sounds like thermostat or coolant sensor related.

thanks for that

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No SW: 03G 906 018 DN HW: 03G 906 018 DN
Component: R4 2.0l PPD1.2 1247
Revision: --H42--- Serial number: AUX7Z0G4FN3049
Coding: 0000078
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 74E3D8E36C7B

1 Fault Found:
001139 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1 (G450): Signal too High
P0473 - 006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 20
Reset counter: 40
Mileage: 76488 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.04.20
Time: 11:21:24

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2048 /min
Torque: 160.0 Nm
Speed: 8.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.90 V
Mileage: 10 km
Text: 688 C
Pressure: 1704.0 mbar

Readiness: N/A

would the above fault code be related to it?



was going to get the dpf removed anyway as the idle always seems to be at 0900 rpm

 

[Artimus]

Back on topic:

few issues with the info presented by LZ36

1. Does an Anti-Lock Brake System pump replacement require coolant drainage? I didn't think so, but I'm willing to be corrected.

2. Does anyone know if the "porous head" issue affected this engine\year? OP needs to google it I think.

3. K-Seal in a new Rad or newly flushed coolant system? that smacks of quick fix if ever there was one, and ranks up there alongside rinsing a customers car down with a hose just as they turn up to collect it after (shoddy) bodywork repairs.

4. If this is ever fixed, the OP needs to find a mechanic that doesn't use Rad Weld\K-Seal on any engine under 29 years old ...or over 29 years & one day).