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17743 p1335 :(

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by kkk, Oct 29, 2013.

  1. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Oct 29, 2013]
    After getting near the end of sorting the faults on my car and always at the most inconvinient time, i.e pulling out a junction at half throttle, iv read so many posts with no fixed answer.
    Iv replaced cts and maf and they seem to read ok so could this only be down to an ecu fault? Would any body know a cure? Would a different remap help or a map tweak or would it mean a new ecu? Im sick of throwing money at this csr now just wondering how fsr i should go :8

    Also whilst im here should i get sny wheel slip before the haldex switches? Iv noticed im getting some just dont kniw if its normal
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  3. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Oct 29, 2013]
    MAF is faulty

    <tuffty/>
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  4. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Oct 29, 2013]
    100% ? I was just sat here thinking maybe it is, it is a cheap one.
    Could it also cause jerky throttle and driveing like its got a mbc lol

    Thanks
    #3
  5. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Oct 29, 2013]
    Unplug the MAF and see if it drives better but pretty much 100% certain this code is due to a faulty MAF... had it myself...

    <tuffty/>
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  6. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Oct 29, 2013]
    Ok thanks il try that. This problem is very random though and im not useing the car much at the momnt but dont fancy it like this when the snow comes.

    Thanks again

    Neil
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  7. ticketyboo90
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    ticketyboo90 Member

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    [Oct 30, 2013]
    Could be O2 sensors, one of mine is faulty and the revs are all over the place. Could be misfiring (spark plug or coils). Could be mass air flow sensor. Could be the throttle body also.
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  8. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Oct 31, 2013]
    Theres no missfire, no codes for 02 or anything and my rrvs arnt to bad thanks though but im going to try the afm if not all i can read it being is a bad map :/

    Thanks
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  9. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 1, 2013]
    With the maf unplugged the car still seems to pull hard with a touch of the throttle and also still hitting this limp :(
    Does this mean its definitly the map as theres nothing else i can think of being the csuse

    Thanks guys

    Neil
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  10. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 2, 2013]
    thought id scan my car to clear this code and maf code as it was unplugged.
    strangly, i had the normal 17743, i had a code for maf resistence too low, i guess cause it was unplugged but also got 16514 and 17521, both being lambda faults so hopefully a new lambda will sort this.

    mine is a AJQ so narrow band, does the sensor do anything to cause the 17743?


    Thanks

    Neil
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  11. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 2, 2013]
    Iv put a bleed valve in place of the n75 and only on wasgate pressure its so much smoother. Think maybe i need an n75
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  12. kkk
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    [Nov 3, 2013]
    I ran today with just the bleed valve and the car drives better but does feel laggier, but no epc so im getting some where.
    The n75 on my car is origanal by the looks of it by the origanal clip on the tip, but could it really be the n75? Or just what its being told to do

    Thanks
    Neil
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  13. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 10, 2013]
    Not fixed :(

    Did it again today and at the most inconvieniant time.

    So im stuck at bad map. Is it a case of finding someone to sdjust the map or is that not possible.
    Anyone know of anyone around london that can do this for me.
    Thanks
    #12
  14. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 18, 2013]
    right, im still hunting down this fault and getting no where.
    i ran on wastegate pressure for a few days and the car ran so much smoother and i thought id solved the issue but nope... it still happened.
    one thing i have noticed is it only does it when pulling off or part throttle pulling up an incline.
    but only when cold, not even cold it mainly happened after useing the car and leaving it from 10 mins to 2 hours so far and does it not long after driveing.
    this is the only pattern i can find. cts is new aswell :/ anything else that could cause this as its temp related or so it seems???

    Thanks

    Neil
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  15. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 18, 2013]
    What maps on it?

    <tuffty/>
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  16. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 18, 2013]
    i dont know mate wish i did, i bought the car as it is. i tried a company to see if they can put a standard map but they wanted my origanal map :/
    the car drives like its got an mbc on it like wanting to go on very little throttle and driving everywhere being careful with the throttle.

    the fault is best described as a surge of boost and if i keep the throttle steady it will hit limp, but i seem to let off when i feel the surge as it dont feel right

    Neil
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  17. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 19, 2013]
    tbh mate at this point in time I would suggest the car needs logging and looked over by a specialist of some description...

    Difficult to diagnose the issue like this now we have gone through the normal stuff... at this point I would be logging to see what boost etc is doing as it sounds like the boost is running away or something and I assume you haven't got a boost gauge else there would be mention of what boost you are seeing

    Have you tried unplugging the N75 electrically and see how things go? this will give actuator pressure to the turbo so should hopefully give a direction for fault finding...

    A bleed valve is not worth using on a permanent basis especially if you have no means to measure where its set as turning up the boost will just result in limp mode as the ECU is designed to protect the engine when it sees more boost than its expecting... which at this time seems to be the issue here... a pikey map could be causing the issue here... more load and boost than the ECU's protection tables are set too... most pikey mappers can find the load tables and turn them up but have no clue of the dozen or so tables surrounding it that govern it...

    <tuffty/>
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  18. kkk
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    [Nov 19, 2013]
    ok then to clarify, i have a podi stepper gauge, i see 15 psi max on n75.
    unplugged or actuator lines connected sees 3-5 psi.
    does what ever i have unplugged as mentioned above.
    and i dont know who to take it to as there is no one around me that id call a specialist.
    all a garage will do is change parts which iv already done.
    when this fault occurs im seeing 0 boost on the gauge maybe 1 psi at the most so its not boost ralated either.

    only thing i can think after all the research is its been mapped wrong. but i have no one to go back to.
    i have vcds basic. iv logged what i can, air flow seems ok and coolant temp etc.

    who in the london area would you call a specialist. was thinking red dot racing as they are local but been told some horror stories so steered clear.

    my experience is you get more knowledge on the forums than at a garage but on this fault i cant seem to find anyone that can help

    all anyone does is what iv already done. what more can anyone do :(

    Thanks
    Neil
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  19. <tuffty/>
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    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition Staff Member Moderator

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    [Nov 19, 2013]
    Difficult one to diagnose mate tbh...

    By boost related I mean the boost could be the issue initially as if its higher than the protection maps are expecting then it will go into soft limp by dumping boost via N249 and closing the throttle... this could explain the low boost you are see as under boost in limp mode typically you will not see less than actuator pressure (5psi typically) as its mechanical at this point...

    Don't know about specialists in London tbh... obviously I would suggest a trip up to Badger 5 (I am a bit biased of course lol) for a diagnostics run on the dyno... typically takes an hour and includes a health check/smoke test and power runs..

    However... you could start off if you have VCDS by logging a few blocks and posting up the results... third gear runs from 2k rpm to redline foot to the floor kinda thing...

    I also assume you have visually checked for leaks and split pipes? be surprised how easy they are to miss.... PCV pipes are favourite

    <tuffty/>
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  20. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Nov 19, 2013]
    im missing info as it was all in another thread. iv pressure tested the system which was how i diagnosed my boost problom down to the gauge i had at the time. held just over 1 bar fine. aprt from a very minor hiss from the rocker gasket which i need to sort, but cant see it being related.
    also n249 is deleted, valve still plugged in electronicly and everything else removed, ajq so no sai.

    one thing is though is i very occasionlly get a smell of fuel, not massive as its the mrs that points it out to me lol.
    im going to check the evap and possibly delete that. but again, cant see this being related.

    i know what you mean though, im on very small amount of throttle to drive the car at a normal speed but feels like its trying to boost, like an mbc.

    i want to fix this fault and not pass it on like the last guy as iv spent to much to turn back.
    if i just got a standard ecu would it need coding and im guessing cant be done with basic vcds?

    iv love a trip upto bill but the extra fuel and day out for a health check is abit extreme lol. i see bill all over the forums and i know he is the man to sort it. if i could leave my car there get a lift back and have endless funds to fix it it would go to bill no questions.

    Thanks again
    Neil
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  21. kkk
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    kkk Member

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    [Jan 1, 2014]
    a little update, getting a little closer to sorting this.

    i have changed the cts again for a genuine one off ebay altough was from poland but looks genuine.

    ok. with the first sensor the car would turn over 5/6 times before starting and was very jerky on warm up, once warmed up and after restarting it would throw this code and go into limp mode.

    now with the new sensor it starts and runs ok but the gauge doesnt go over 75* ish, its ran without throwing the code for a cpl weeks then i sat the other day waiting with the engine running and it heated up to 90* and when i went to pull away in the same situation as before the car hit limp.


    so now this seems like a cts problom or could it be something else?

    thanks for the help.

    Neil
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