cone air filter on 1.8T

marshall-12 said:
not sure id want it down by the front bumper for that reason.
i think having a map will help alot in having a cone filter though, standard it just makes the car feel laggy.. :/
Click to expand...

There is lots of horror stories of the filters getting full of water and the engines suffocating etc but im sure it only happens if your a idiot and think your car is a boat or something.. just go for it.. its the cheapest option (bar going to standard)
 
theres alot of dodgy info in this thread based on not alot really.

to the OP, your small cone filter isnt the best, but it still does the job, or you better hope it does.

the standard airboxes with an uprated panel filter ARE good, and do increase airflow, but when tuning your car (remaps etc) you'l find that more can be available from large cones, as proved by many users who log before and after, and the tests on dynos that the likes of B5 has done.
the important thing is when choosing a cone filter is you want it to be equal to, or bigger than the surface area of the standard filter, there is v little gain fitting a smaller area filter.
as we all know the MAF sensors on these cars are very sensitive, and its best to choose a filter that is very lightly oiled (as most cotton gauze and sponge are), k&n do have a reputation of being very oily, but i dont speak from experience here, its possibly just the owner putting too much oil on. so be careful!

the next thing i here is cold air feeds and how you'l 'get heat soak'. apart from on a dyno, someone please explain how intake temps at the filter matter when its going through a turbo that sees 800+ degrees????
it doesnt.
the main purpose you should be fitting a cold air feed for is volume and density of air, you want as much as possible so the car gets all it needs.
if you are worried about intake temperatures, then you need to uprate your intercooler!

now back to answer the OP's questions.
if your car is standard it will unfortunately feel a little 'flat' as you put it, they dont run alot of boost at all, and they arent very punchy in standard form. the 'bogging down' you're experiencing is imo perfectly normal from a standard car, they really do have rubbish top end pull when in standard form (and im talking experience from an s3 here, not A3). this is where a remap, silicone TIP and a decent filter will help you out, more punch, more top end pull.

as for your dump valve or DV as it gets referred as, on these cars its important to run a recirculating dump valve, this is where the valve dumps boost back into the intake pipe, as can be seen from your standard set up.
people DO fit a dv called a forge split-r, which does half and half, but please avoid these DV's and any atmospheric ones, your car will run poop!

i suggest you start by buying a TIP, a LARGE jetex/greencotton/k&n filter, and a forge 007p DV, then a remap.
i think you'l then find what you're looking for in the car, the mods alone should improve the cars power delivery and response, and the remap will do that x10.

hope i've helped, i've rambled on long enough.

peace
 
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cheers for that karl, great information there.

I've proven myself right with this air filter, it did feel laggy and the turbo wasn't given it its all, just put the standard filter back on and there is such a difference.

Im gonna cut my losses and say ive wasted some money on this filter, and as you ahve said, wait untill i have the money for a remap and a forge007p.

Been doing some reseacrch into good filters for the audi and found that this is extremely common on here and well backed:
https://www.jetex.co.uk/jetex/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=6711
and a very good price too, so think ill get that one and look into what size pipe i need for it to fit.

still, bodywork first lol before these mods happen.
cheers again guys for everyones input. quite happy with how this thread has come about.
 
Ronin225 said:
I ran a green cotton panel filter in mine for years then switched a mahoosive green cone and gained 12g/s when logging
When i say massive i mean this, and its not even that noisy
2012-04-01150451.jpg
Click to expand...


Where did you get the big filter from?
 
I don't like opening my bonnet in communal garages, prefer cubicles
 
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I'd be guessing it's Bills badgerwagon i.e. a Seat Ibiza

EDIT i.e. a yellow Seat
 
Last edited:
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superkarl said:
theres alot of dodgy info in this thread based on not alot really.

to the OP, your small cone filter isnt the best, but it still does the job, or you better hope it does.

the standard airboxes with an uprated panel filter ARE good, and do increase airflow, but when tuning your car (remaps etc) you'l find that more can be available from large cones, as proved by many users who log before and after, and the tests on dynos that the likes of B5 has done.
the important thing is when choosing a cone filter is you want it to be equal to, or bigger than the surface area of the standard filter, there is v little gain fitting a smaller area filter.
as we all know the MAF sensors on these cars are very sensitive, and its best to choose a filter that is very lightly oiled (as most cotton gauze and sponge are), k&n do have a reputation of being very oily, but i dont speak from experience here, its possibly just the owner putting too much oil on. so be careful!

the next thing i here is cold air feeds and how you'l 'get heat soak'. apart from on a dyno, someone please explain how intake temps at the filter matter when its going through a turbo that sees 800+ degrees????
it doesnt.
the main purpose you should be fitting a cold air feed for is volume and density of air, you want as much as possible so the car gets all it needs.
if you are worried about intake temperatures, then you need to uprate your intercooler!

now back to answer the OP's questions.
if your car is standard it will unfortunately feel a little 'flat' as you put it, they dont run alot of boost at all, and they arent very punchy in standard form. the 'bogging down' you're experiencing is imo perfectly normal from a standard car, they really do have rubbish top end pull when in standard form (and im talking experience from an s3 here, not A3). this is where a remap, silicone TIP and a decent filter will help you out, more punch, more top end pull.

as for your dump valve or DV as it gets referred as, on these cars its important to run a recirculating dump valve, this is where the valve dumps boost back into the intake pipe, as can be seen from your standard set up.
people DO fit a dv called a forge split-r, which does half and half, but please avoid these DV's and any atmospheric ones, your car will run poop!

i suggest you start by buying a TIP, a LARGE jetex/greencotton/k&n filter, and a forge 007p DV, then a remap.
i think you'l then find what you're looking for in the car, the mods alone should improve the cars power delivery and response, and the remap will do that x10.

hope i've helped, i've rambled on long enough.

peace
Click to expand...


I have just bought a 02 plate s3, totally standard, would this be better than putting a upgraded panel filter in ? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-Audi...-Maxflow-Nero-Induction-Kit-CAI-/271093865192

As for the dv what colour of spring is best ?

Going to fit a tip along with the above and stick her in for a rolling road remap next week.

Thanks.
 
Those enclosed filters are crap.
Just fit a conventional cotton come; green cotton, jetex, k&n whatever it may be, of a decent size.

DV wise if you have the 007/8p you should only need the original green spring. If you don't have a 007/8p yet just buy an oem Bosch valve from the dealers
 
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superkarl said:
Those enclosed filters are ****.
Just fit a conventional cotton come; green cotton, jetex, k&n whatever it may be, of a decent size.

DV wise if you have the 007/8p you should only need the original green spring. If you don't have a 007/8p yet just buy an oem Bosch valve from the dealers
Click to expand...

Will do thanks, ive not purchased one yet when i was looking on ebay i noticed the different choices of spring is there an advantage using a forge over the cheaper generic ones ?
 
This question comes up loads and the general feeling I got from people on here is stick to the standard airbox unless you have big power gains planned. The other issue is the oiled aftermarket filters are no good for your MAF.. We can't win!
After much faffing I bought a RAM-AIR dry foam filter for the OEM box.. happy days :racer:
 
Forge dv will give you no gains or advantages over your standard dv. It will just add some 'bling' and might sound different. An open cone filter will make any dv much louder.

If you still have the standard dv you might want to look at buying a new oem dv as they can leak when they get old. I wouldn't bother buying a forge one though.
 
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Think I'll just replace standard unless the shiney cheap ebay 1 is cheaper just noticed the s2000 filter thread think I'll do that, just got the car so im going to service it and the haladex before it goes for remap,
Anything else i should change apart from oil plugs etc?

Any advice on plugs and oil ?
Been reading a lot of mixed stuff about them.
 
neoxr2i said:
Think I'll just replace standard unless the shiney cheap ebay 1 is cheaper just noticed the s2000 filter thread think I'll do that, just got the car so im going to service it and the haladex before it goes for remap,
Anything else i should change apart from oil plugs etc?

Any advice on plugs and oil ?
Been reading a lot of mixed stuff about them.
Click to expand...

NGK plugs, you can search through threads and find the exact model # and gap size.

Don't get an eBay DV! It will leak, you will lose boost and your car will be slower. (Unless you're buying a genuine Forge DV off eBay).

Either buy the forge (spending more for a bit of bling and nothing else) or an OEM one.

Oil, fully sync 5w40 is pretty common around here. My engine is quite old and climate is quite hot so I use a bit thicker.
 
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Jenno007 said:
NGK plugs, you can search through threads and find the exact model # and gap size.

Don't get an eBay DV! It will leak, you will lose boost and your car will be slower. (Unless you're buying a genuine Forge DV off eBay).

Either buy the forge (spending more for a bit of bling and nothing else) or an OEM one.

Oil, fully sync 5w40 is pretty common around here. My engine is quite old and climate is quite hot so I use a bit thicker.
Click to expand...

Thanks, ill just replace it oem, im going give all the pipes a good check replace anything thats not 100% i intend to put her about 300bhp but not atm just want her running perfect, the guy i bought off replaced clutch cam belt and turbo jn the last year so hopefully I'll not have any big bills or problems.
 
neoxr2i said:
Thanks, ill just replace it oem, im going give all the pipes a good check replace anything thats not 100% i intend to put her about 300bhp but not atm just want her running perfect, the guy i bought off replaced clutch cam belt and turbo jn the last year so hopefully I'll not have any big bills or problems.
Click to expand...

300bhp isn't too hard to obtain these days, depending on your engine the stnd turbo could even get you there

Also, hope nothing goes wrong with your car, always keep a bit of money aside in case something does though!
 
As for oil, I ordered fuchs titan race pro s 5w40 from opie. Look at my thread about oil. Discussed in what read probably too much depth.
 
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