I've realised that if this is going to work, first time, I've got to take my time over everything. No point rushing. So, progress is slow!
Started the day off with an EVAP delete. The fewer things running behind the glowifold the better, so the Evap and associated crap was first to go:
It worked out rather well too, I cur the hardline for the tank vent off the push fitting, then used part of the old moulded Evap hose with a 90 degree bend in it to run a new tank vent line down into the existing hole in the wheel arch:
Next up a bit of CAD to get the basic shape and bends for the extra heat shield I was adding:
Finished, it curves up under the bulkhead at the top and bolts on each side, it clamps to the original heat shield in the middle, and also has a tab sharing a bolt with the steering rack heat shield at the bottom:
Annoyingly, this looks crap in the pics, but in real life, it's not too bad at all.
Wraps back at the bottom to meet the underbody heatshielding too
After that, following a conversation with Tufty the other day, I decided to pull out all the manifold studs in the head.
****** time consuming with the head on the engine still, using 2 nuts and 2 spanners to back them out, but I replaced them all with new studs, and threadlocked them in. Worth doing I think if it's to last
And now the happy bit:
It's on!!!!
OK, so it's not tightened up yet, but it's in place, with nordlocks on every stud, and new nuts, and the best news is, I can turn every single nut with a normal spanner. It'll be easier to tighten a few with a modified spanner though, so I'm going to nip down to B&Q in a minute and pick up some cheap spanners.
I've also found, that by removing one of the DP studs, I can get a normal spanner on the impossible 3rd turbo bolt too, so there really is hope!
Off to meet Dan now (Beachbuggy) as my ko3 Banjo's for the water lines are different and I hadn't realised.
One question for people: What's going on here?
There's no way it'll tighten down with just a crush washer on there, although, I'm wondering if my turbo has been clocked for any reason? The actuator bracket has been welded up, and it looks like the locating tab would line up nicely with one of the comp housing studs, but if it's been clocked then of course they don't line up.
Is the support important? or shall I just bend it out of the way and do up the banjo as per normal?