Anyone doing / thinking of doing the sai removal?

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jonny87

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well seeing as my sai pump doesnt work and seems to be on the car for no good reason i thought i would remove it, read the few guides knocking around on the net and seems fairly straight forward, a few fiddly bits but nothing major

one thing that came to my attention is the fact that i will need a blanking plate to fit on the side of the block where the combi valve would normally enter, now the only place i could find that makes/sells these is in america: http://www.intengineering.com/VW/18T/Accessories/18t-SAI-Blockoff-Plate-p3333558.html

they are charging $35 for these (roughly £22) plus whatever shipping they want to charge, and also there maybe import/duty tax to pay although im not 100% on that, safe to say £30 is a minimum for this simple metal plate

being an engineer im more than capable of producing such an item and have access to all the necessary machines/tools needed, so therefore will be making my own blanking plate, it may not be as shiney as the one they are selling but it will be just as functional and a damn sight cheaper

i thought i would post this on here as i know there are some others out there wanting to do the sai removal too and if those people would like a blanking plate made too i would be more than happy, i think £10 would be fair of me to ask for my time and effort?

also when i do this i will do a 'how to guide' specifically for the s3 as the ones i am looking at arent and therefore variate slightly, so il get that up asap too

anyway please post your thoughts on this, and if anyone has found someone producing these plates in the uk let me know as i couldnt find anything!!

cheers :)
 
ahhhhh nice one mate

will still make my own though, £20 or half hours worth of work (done in works time of course :))
 
You will need the seal too, my SAI will be in the bin by weds eve. At 18 quid or so delivered for all the bits required I couldn't fault the forge one.
 
I followed the fix for a noisey one off the MKiv forum. As I understand it helps to bring exhaust emission to an acceptable level quicker.
 
Kunit said:
You will need the seal too, my SAI will be in the bin by weds eve. At 18 quid or so delivered for all the bits required I couldn't fault the forge one.
Click to expand...

yer i didnt know forge sold one untill last night, although as said i think il still have a go at doing my own, i will make my own rubber gasket rather than use an 'o' ring seal and see how that goes

can anyone tell me hwere they got their resistors from, as im having trouble locating any in the uk?
someone said maplins sold them but looked on their site and they dont do 330 ohm, didnt fancy putting a couple in parallel/series
 
jonny87 said:
can anyone tell me hwere they got their resistors from, as im having trouble locating any in the uk?
someone said maplins sold them but looked on their site and they dont do 330 ohm, didnt fancy putting a couple in parallel/series
Click to expand...

I need a 330ohm 10w resistor to replace my N249 valve so I can do away with the frame that sits on top of coilpacks 3 & 4. Am I correct in thinking that you need the resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the SAI is all ok and still connected?
 
Westle said:
I need a 330ohm 10w resistor to replace my N249 valve so I can do away with the frame that sits on top of coilpacks 3 & 4. Am I correct in thinking that you need the resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the SAI is all ok and still connected?
Click to expand...

Personally if you are retaining the engine covers and not bothered about looks my preference is to leave the valves etc electrically connected whilst bypassing/removing attached pipe work. Less chance of getting it wrong and the ECU going pop.

<tuffty/>
 
Westle said:
I need a 330ohm 10w resistor to replace my N249 valve so I can do away with the frame that sits on top of coilpacks 3 & 4. Am I correct in thinking that you need the resistor to trick the ECU into thinking the SAI is all ok and still connected?
Click to expand...

bang on mate, it will stop a warning light coming on on the dash, although when plugged into vagcom you will still get an improper flow messgae for the sai, im sure you can get it coded out if you were really that bothered?

im going to put a couple of resistors in to replace my n249 too, as atm its tucked under my chargepipe and just want to tidy it up a bit more

thanks tuffty for putting those links up :beerchug:
 
tufftybloke said:
Personally if you are retaining the engine covers and not bothered about looks my preference is to leave the valves etc electrically connected whilst bypassing/removing attached pipe work. Less chance of getting it wrong and the ECU going pop.

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

I suppose you're right mate, and I am keeping the cover but I just hate seeing the disconnected valve just sitting there all ugly.
 
c_dog said:
I followed the fix for a noisey one off the MKiv forum. As I understand it helps to bring exhaust emission to an acceptable level quicker.
Click to expand...

so whats the benefit from removing it then? anyone?
 
Less weight, more space, less to go wrong etc
 
i cant imagine it weighs much, couple of kilo's at most

space is a big bonus, having serviced the car on the weekend i found the oil filter a right pita to remove, with sai pump removed it would be a far easier job

my sai is kaput anyway, so it obviously isnt doing much in the first place so i figured rather than trying to fix it i might aswell remove it!!
 
Any weight is better than no weight, two kilo less is two kilo more fuel on the track.
 
audi upgrades
Normally I'd be with you Jonny, but I've got a mate who works at Forge so I get anything I buy on the cheap :)
 
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