Not another Nogaro!!!
- Thread starter IPG
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Finally got all my gauges working!
I think they look awesome!!
Shifting from 1-3 ... can’t push the rest too high hence the early shifting. Shifting just as boost comes on strong... except that first one
I think they look awesome!!
Shifting from 1-3 ... can’t push the rest too high hence the early shifting. Shifting just as boost comes on strong... except that first one
Great look, good job!
As far i know (and what i actually did and couple of friends around me) in break-in period it's good to keep the 3000RPM range.. for safety purposes.
I'm just wondering between Prosport premium series with the white needle or go Stack for mine.... one of the last inside the interior things i have to do and can't make decision.
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not really the right way to go about it... you need to build a bit of boost and load to help bed the rings in... just don't rev it out...
All setups are different... boost depends on what setup you are using... on some you won't even see boost at 3k...
Should be no more than actuator pressure and give the engine a chance to load up with a bit of boost so it helps force the ring against the home marks... most of the running in is done in the first 50-100 miles... but you keep it sensible for the first 500 at least before changing the oil for synthetic..
<tuffty/>
Yes sir, yes sir! my misconception. Well i break-in my engine with my k04 and ye first 500miles we're sensible, it's actually fun because i knew i'm limited so, rev it all the time till 100km/h super fast and stick there.
I’ve been giving mine a chance to both rev to the boost area and also roll out under vacuum. I’ve been told that will allow varied loads and for better ring seating as they need pressure on them to bed in properly. My vacuum is rock steady (fingers crossed it stays that way)
Was out driving last night, some on the freeway, then the rest on the highway hitting that boost onset area + stop start at traffic lights. Still getting g used to the new clutch & habevsralked a couple times. lol
Clocked just over 300km’s!
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Remember we work in KM’s not miles in the land of convicts and imports.
I have some big timing pull going on... sad times! BUT lucky I have actually logged the car and seen this before any massive damage happens. Have been keeping things pretty tame for now due to NOT wanting to break the engine...
and i'm tending to lean out as things begin to get a little intense
some other issues
- pretty sure there is a boost leak(s) somewhere as when i was pushing it to higher PSI i would hear a POP just as i let off throttle. Already changed one clamp at the MAP pipe side of the DV which was weak... now just to find the rest!
- i have two small coolant leaks where i've re-used the OEM clamps on the silicone coolant hoses
... i need a dyno tune...
and i'm tending to lean out as things begin to get a little intense
some other issues
- pretty sure there is a boost leak(s) somewhere as when i was pushing it to higher PSI i would hear a POP just as i let off throttle. Already changed one clamp at the MAP pipe side of the DV which was weak... now just to find the rest!
- i have two small coolant leaks where i've re-used the OEM clamps on the silicone coolant hoses
... i need a dyno tune...
Lol, one question - How you run 1000cc without tune? Isn't that way too rich i think that gonna wash your cylinders.
I'm currently waiting mine to start work in progress and when all been finished, i'm afraid to drive mine 10KM to the tuner with 550cc.
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It does have a 1000cc file on it. However it was for a smaller turbo so it’s not so when the turbo is ramming more air in and fuel isn’t tuned in to keep up
IDC looks good though so *fingers crossed*
Should pull decent numbers.
That light bulb moment eh???! LOL when first replying to your posts on FB I always thought “must be prawn from ASN”I've only just realised who you are
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Just need to replace that steering wheel with a joystick and you're ready for take off
#topgun
... I did get a random red oil pressure warning yesterday. Happened while stuck in trafffic and car was idling/rolling forward at low rpm. I was like ????? What is this!!!! Slightly freakin out thinking.... Leaks? Oil spilling everywhere.... but. Nothing of the sort.
After a bit of a rest and car off (for about 10 mins), then on.... all ok???? Mystery....
After a bit of a rest and car off (for about 10 mins), then on.... all ok???? Mystery....
Dyno tune maybe as close as next weekend 
Just gotta button up some small things. Mainly that suspect boost leak and wee coolant leaks. Pretty sure I know the engine is reliable after reading this...
Was able to overtake with ease at 120+km per hr and car runs pretty nicely hovering at around 140km per hr.
Just gotta button up some small things. Mainly that suspect boost leak and wee coolant leaks. Pretty sure I know the engine is reliable after reading this...
Was able to overtake with ease at 120+km per hr and car runs pretty nicely hovering at around 140km per hr.
The engine has been performing strong -the above trip was a drive to Sydney and back where a trip was made up some twisties and along the Sea Cliff Bridge.
... and it looks like I found he source of my coolant leaks. There was an o-ring at the heater core that wasn’t sealing and these OEM clamps don’t match up too well when using the silicone upgraded coolant piping. Switched to a slightly fatter o-ring and worm clamps = no more coolant leaks.
While the intake was out I made this video just for LOL’s and wow’s
... and of course while I was there I saw grease sputtered I typical line fashion a la split CV boot
I also raised the rear a tad - still needs to be a bit higher I think!
Noggie goes in for a proper dyno tune around the end of next week... so I guess watch this space.
... and it looks like I found he source of my coolant leaks. There was an o-ring at the heater core that wasn’t sealing and these OEM clamps don’t match up too well when using the silicone upgraded coolant piping. Switched to a slightly fatter o-ring and worm clamps = no more coolant leaks.
While the intake was out I made this video just for LOL’s and wow’s
... and of course while I was there I saw grease sputtered I typical line fashion a la split CV boot
I also raised the rear a tad - still needs to be a bit higher I think!
Noggie goes in for a proper dyno tune around the end of next week... so I guess watch this space.
Spoke to my tuner re: fuel (as I can see that with this tune the AFR gauge is shifting toward the lean side of things) - I asked about why it could be doing this and possibility of e85
Some interesting conclusions
- our 98RON fuel is supposedly not actually 98 and more like 95 as it takes it’s sweet ol time to get here then storage then blah blah blah
- going e85 I would HAVE TO change lines to be compatible and increase injectors/fuel pumps. Would 1000cc injectors and an upgraded in tank + DA-31 in line be sufficient? What about the stock lines corroding? Has anyone changed their lines before?
- then there was talk of using a 98/e85 blend which is really interesting! Have not really heard of that before. Can anyone shed any more light on this?
Going this route I was told can help to preserve the lines while upping the octane.
Some interesting conclusions
- our 98RON fuel is supposedly not actually 98 and more like 95 as it takes it’s sweet ol time to get here then storage then blah blah blah
- going e85 I would HAVE TO change lines to be compatible and increase injectors/fuel pumps. Would 1000cc injectors and an upgraded in tank + DA-31 in line be sufficient? What about the stock lines corroding? Has anyone changed their lines before?
- then there was talk of using a 98/e85 blend which is really interesting! Have not really heard of that before. Can anyone shed any more light on this?
Going this route I was told can help to preserve the lines while upping the octane.
There is a thread just started about using e85. Just a thought incase any help on that thread would help you out.
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Fitted a fuel pressure gauge - never actually knew what it was running at before. Now I do.
And now Noggie is next in line ...
*fingers crossed*
- nothing breaks
- nothing catches fire
- some decent performance comes from this
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Explain yourself man!
It's been 22 hours since you hinted at a Dyno session and still no result!
It's been 22 hours since you hinted at a Dyno session and still no result!
It’s not correct as it’s not been adjusted in the map. For the injectors.
So. Tuning had to stop for the day.
The one and only coolant flange that is not included as an aluminium part BROKE!!! Coolant everywhere - dyno stopped and many frantic messaging to try and get a replacement.
Does anyone know if you can get that one in aluminium?
Luckily. When I finally got home from work and had a scrounge ... this off a BDE
So I rushed back to the shop and dropped it off hoping one has stolen it and the 3/4 bottle of ready mix coolant (had to leave it outside as they’d already locked up for the day) - for things to move on when they open up again.
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at least you know they are trying hard as you have driven it around for 800KM without a fault and they have popped a coolant flange in a couple of runs, is that literally because at 7000 RPM the water pump is really shifting?
Do we have a sweep stake? 540BHP ?
looked risky parking you beautiful S3 near another car on a dyno - especially after watching some of the dyno failures videos on you-tube.
Do we have a sweep stake? 540BHP ?
looked risky parking you beautiful S3 near another car on a dyno - especially after watching some of the dyno failures videos on you-tube.
LOL
Go on then. Sweepstake on.
You guess 540!!! Wow. I wish.
I was going to say I’ll be happy with 400-450
That popped on base map file #2 LOL
So yes. They mustve been running it hard yesterday. I’m guessing the outside temp of 32 degrees didn’t help...
Go on then. Sweepstake on.
You guess 540!!! Wow. I wish.
I was going to say I’ll be happy with 400-450
That popped on base map file #2 LOL
So yes. They mustve been running it hard yesterday. I’m guessing the outside temp of 32 degrees didn’t help...
