Looks like a tyre company has messed up my wheel bolts

Halfords sell good ones, mcgard are good, just make sure to get the right ones, tapered or radius, match existing bolt.

I would just go to your local breakers and get a set, most of the time they chuck the in the bin. For the locking nut again if you cannot get some from a breakers then mcgards are good. try machine mart for a correct size tap.

B5NUT said:

I would just go to your local breakers and get a set, most of the time they chuck the in the bin. For the locking nut again if you cannot get some from a breakers then mcgards are good. try machine mart for a correct size tap.

Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=WHT002437&_sacat=0


Part numbers



#NumberDescriptionQty.
wheel bolt; valve; balancer weight
1WHT002437wheel bolt; 1-part; M14X1,5X27; PR-1PA20
1WHT002437wheel bolt; 1-part; M14X1,5X27; PR-1PD16
1WHT002438wheel bolt; 2-part; M14X1,5X27; 8, 10-cyl.+; PR-1PA20
1WHT002438wheel bolt; 2-part; M14X1,5X27; 8, 10-cyl.+; PR-1PD16
2321601173Acap - wheel bolt; 16,7X18MB; PR-1PA20
321601173A Z37grey metallic
2321601173Acap - wheel bolt; 16,7X18MB; PR-1PD16
321601173A Z37grey metallic
34F0698139Cwheel bolt, anti-theft,; with adapter; 1-part; M14X1,5X27,5; PR-1PDX
4F0698139C 801code keys; .......A
4F0698139C 802code keys; .......B
4F0698139C 803code keys; .......C
4F0698139C 804code keys; .......D
4F0698139C 805code keys; .......E
4F0698139C 806code keys; .......F
4F0698139C 807code keys; .......G
4F0698139C 808code keys; .......H
4F0698139C 809code keys; .......J
4F0698139C 810code keys; .......L
4F0698139C 811code keys; .......M
4F0698139C 812code keys; .......N
4F0698139C 813code keys; .......P
4F0698139C 814code keys; .......Q
4F0698139C 815code keys; .......R
4F0698139C 816code keys; .......S
4F0698139C 817code keys; .......T
4F0698139C 818code keys; .......V
4F0698139C 819code keys; .......W
4F0698139C 820code keys; .......X
34F0698139Bwheel bolt, anti-theft,; with adapter; 2-part; M14X1,5X27,5; 8, 10-cyl.+; PR-1PDX
4F0698139B 801code keys; .......A
4F0698139B 802code keys; .......B
4F0698139B 803code keys; .......C
4F0698139B 804code keys; .......D
4F0698139B 805code keys; .......E
4F0698139B 806code keys; .......F
4F0698139B 807code keys; .......G
4F0698139B 808code keys; .......H
4F0698139B 809code keys; .......J
4F0698139B 810code keys; .......L
4F0698139B 811code keys; .......M
4F0698139B 812code keys; .......N
4F0698139B 813code keys; .......P
4F0698139B 814code keys; .......Q
4F0698139B 815code keys; .......R
4F0698139B 816code keys; .......S
4F0698139B 817code keys; .......T
4F0698139B 818code keys; .......V
4F0698139B 819code keys; .......W
4F0698139B 820code keys; .......X
44F0601173Acap - wheel bolt; wheel bolt, anti-theft; PR-1PD4
4F0601173A Z37grey metallic
58D0012244Aextractor hook1
6281601361rubber valveX
7no replacement part for; this model
8no replacement part for; this model
9wheel electronics sensor; see illustration:; 907-50
10N 90873301valve insert; only for:; 4D0 601 3614
11N 90872901valve cap for; valve unit; only for:; 4D0 601 3614
124D0601361metal valve; for models with tyre pressure; monitor (wireless radio sys.)4
14D 322000A2spraying wax; 400MLX
15G 052109A2assembly paste; 120GX
16see illustration:; 073-10
17no replacement part for; this model
18no replacement part for; this model
19no replacement part for; this model
204F0601185balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 5G- 3/16OZ.X
204F0601186balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 10G- 3/8 OZ.X
204F0601188balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 20G- 3/4 OZ.X
204F0601190balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 30G- 1 OZ.X
204F0601192balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 40G- 1 3/8 OZ.X
204F0601194balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 50G- 1 3/4 OZ.X
204F0601196balancer weight; (self-adhesive); 60G- 2 OZ.X

should you put copper slip on the thread ? I thought you did not lubricate the wheel bolts

Some say they should never be greased and some say it's fine to use copper slip. I always use a little bit of copper slip and in 20 years never had a problem with loose bolts.

B5NUT said:

Some say they should never be greased and some say it's fine to use copper slip. I always use a little bit of copper slip and in 20 years never had a problem with loose bolts.

Click to expand...

If you grease your wheel bolts you will over tighten the bolts when you torque them to 120Nm.

Never had a problem with that in 20 years, as I said there are 2 sides to this one.

B5NUT said:

Never had a problem with that in 20 years, as I said there are 2 sides to this one.

Click to expand...

I'me not arguing with you, just saying why your not supposed to lubricate the wheel nuts / bolts.

Anti-seize or grease should NEVER be put on wheel studs/nuts. This is because it will change the friction co-efficient of the threads. This means when you torque your wheels down to the proper torque (everybody is using a torque wrench right?) you are actually OVERTIGHTENING the bolt. Tightening down a bolt to proper spec means you are actually putting a measured amount of stretch in the bolt. Put antiseize on there and you will be putting too much stretch in the bolt for the same amount of torque. Do this many times, like a wheel bolt that gets tightened several times, and eventually the bolt will crack and break. If you have rust on the threads, clean off the rust with a brush. I recently had an Acura TL where the owner had done this, and I had to replace all 20 wheel studs. Ending up costing the customer almost $200! If you were to measure the bolt stretch of a bolt both lubricated with antiseize and dry, you would find in only takes about half the torque to get the proper stretch of the lubricated bolt. This is why extremely critical bolts (like connecting rod bolts in a race car engine) you actually measure the bolt stretch directly, instead of approximating it using a torque wrench, it is much more accurate of proper tightness.

I'm not arguing, I'm just saying what I do, but I've seen people on forums destroy £££ of alloys due to seized wheel bolts/nuts. Me old man copper slipped all wheel nuts/bolts on all of his motors over the last 60 odd years and again not had any wheels fall off. I've got 2 motors that are over 16 years old and in that time I've never had a cracked or damaged bolt on either car, my A6 is coming up to 10 years old and again no damage to any of the wheel bolts.

What puzzles me is, why people leave their wheels on long enough for them to seize. How can anyone clean their alloys without removing them from the car ?
I take mine off at least once a month to wash and polish them.

I think the key thing is to keep the studs/bolts in an as new corrosion free condition rather than adding any kind of liberal lubrication. A sparing amount of antiseize wiped on wiped off just leaves enough residue to maintain original performance. This is inline with manufacturers recommendation and should result, as near as possible, in consistent torque values.

RoyC said:

What puzzles me is, why people leave their wheels on long enough for them to seize. How can anyone clean their alloys without removing them from the car ?
I take mine off at least once a month to wash and polish them.

Click to expand...

You get people that just don't care about the car they drive, and do very little miles each year. They then moan on about the tyres only last 5K miles but then say they have been on the car for 5 years and have failed due to perishing of the rubber!, so the wheels have been on the car for years and never been touched in all that time.

I admire your enthusiasm Roy. Sadly don't have time for once a month. Mine get a good wash when I switch between winter and summer boots.

That was today's job so the winter rims are all washed and polished and safely stowed in the shed now until, well, winter.

M