audi 4 tqs 2000 new owner problems to start

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jaymodunn

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o.k bought a car today a 2000 audi a4 tqs it has a few issues but the main one which wasnt advertised is the fact it has no boost, takes about 12 seconds to get to 60 and is sluggish. no dash warning lights thou or smoke.

now i understand it could be a lot of issues but is worth getting it ecu read first or where do i start, ****** me off a lot as the car wasn't advertised as having this fault, but that is ebay for you.

cheers
 
sounds like its in limp, so I'd be scanning first. A visual inspection may help, is there a rattle when you let off the throttle?

If no codes, do you have a boost gauge fitted?
 
If theres no boost sounds like its ditched the wastegate penny valve whip the cat off from the turbo see if it sat in the cat or turbo housing.

Or if you can get hold of a borescope whip the lambda sensor out and have a look whats in there.

And now would be a good time to install a boost gauge its your best friend in any turbo car as you can see what the turbo is doing !!
 
Bradderz_1988 said:
If theres no boost sounds like its ditched the wastegate penny valve whip the cat off from the turbo see if it sat in the cat or turbo housing.

Or if you can get hold of a borescope whip the lambda sensor out and have a look whats in there.

And now would be a good time to install a boost gauge its your best friend in any turbo car as you can see what the turbo is doing !!
Click to expand...

I was heading there, but didn't want to scare him,LOL
 
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Is anyone else irritated by that bull**** that makes a regular appearance in less than fully forthright eBay ads 'selling because of company car'
 
On the bright side, you got a bargain there even if you need to source a second hand turbo. Might have my standard turbo up for grabs soon as have my hybrid to fit.

Was about to offer to scan the Ecu for you but unfortunately you're nowhere near Herts :-(
 
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Not too scary mate. Are you competent to DIY as the cambelt whilst being a bit of a sod is doable on the drive. Are the brakes ****ed or does it just need a set of discs and pads?
 
iirc I tapped into the vacuum line for the recirculation valve and ran that through the Ecu box into the cabin then just tapped into the illumination for the cig lighter. Mines mounted in an A pillar pod but many fit into one of the centre heater vents
 
where did you buy the piping, also at this point i just want a cheap one, any recommendations?
 
The piping I had laying about from another project. I usually grab whilst at shows as it's far cheaper and you get to feel the quality of it before parting with your money. Avoid TIM. gauges. I've got 3 at present a Mocal, a Stack and currently in the A4 is an Autoguage all 3 seem fine and give very closely matched readings.
 
Pipe it in to the FPR pipe then run it off through the grommet in bulkhead next to brake servo pipe then down through the ECU box.
 
I had to add 200 more hp to overcome the quattros extra weight.😜
 
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can the tuning be done on a budget. once i sort the limp mode want to remap it.
 
These cars dont have an "engine light" so it could potentially have all sorts of faults and wouldnt bring on any light on the dash. Scanning with VCDS is the only way to tell whats going on.

Possibilities are wide and varied, and knowing if you were getting 5psi or 0psi would maybe narrow it down without looking at the fault codes.

As for tuning, you can have them remapped, but the ECU is a bit rare/obscure and isnt flashable, so its a little awkward requiring removal and "chipping". Unforunately Audi didnt upgrade the turbo on the 180hp B5 models, meaning its the same turbo as the 150hp cars, which means after a remap your not going to see much more than about 195hp.

My personal view is that you should decide where you want to be power wise before starting down the road of mods, because if you start buying bits at random you'll end up either holding yourself back or adding mods that wont gain you anything.
 
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omce up to running order i will stick with a remap and exhaust and service parts first.
 
say my turbo is knackered is there a turbo that can bolt right in and add bhp?
 
The K03-073 from a B6 A4 190hp model is bolt in and will do about 230hpish.

Or you can have a hybrid built to your spec for a bit more.
 
Beachbuggy if you just want a hybrid turbo then maybe buy a high flow manifold of ebay then you will need a intake pipe. Or just port your existing manifold.

Or frankenturbo for a kit but all in all is best part of 1k after import duties and tax.

If your happy with 230hp then just get the turbo from the 190hp B6 and get it mapped.
 
Is the b6 tubby a straight swap? What remap do you need chip or custom? Is it on the standard ecu or aftermarket.
 
o.k just had it read and these are the faults. should i cry?

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure
11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
26-10 - Output Open - Intermittent
16500 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0116 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
 
looking at it i can replace the n75 valve, but does anyone know the part code and where to buy. cheers
 
yes cleared and ran again car is still slow. checked faults but none but it was only about 500 metres

is the turbo shagged it does seem to whine a bit..
 
You really need to plumb a boost gauge in to see what its doing if your seeing around 4-5psi then its in limp mode (actuator pressure) anything below ie 0psi then you need to check the penny valve hasnt gone west.

If its still there do a boost leak test and maybe replace the temp sensor.
 
i have the boost gauge so will have a go in the week. i know without boost scan can be pointless it is all trial and error.
 
The Battery code just means the battery has been low or disconnected at some point.

N75 could be faulty, or it could be a bad connection, or its been unplugged. Did the N75 code come back after you reset the codes and had a drive.

The intake manifold pressure code means your not making any boost. I had that same code when my wastegate penny fell off. It might also be due to a faulty or broken N75 though i guess.

The Engine coolant sensor code probably means your thermostat is faulty. I presume the engine doesnt get up to 90c on the guage in normal driving?
 
yes temp gauge is not moving

are they easy to sort, what is this penny thing?
 
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