Recent content by rojocho

Well, after changing the regulator on the alternator, thought I'd solved the problem. Was behaving itself, prolonged use of full throttle, turning no issues. On my way back from work today, lost all power, no electrics, engine cut everything gone, then turn key (whilst driving, fortunately...

Belt tensioner is very stiff, lot harder to move than old one, not skipping and belt tensions seems good.

Well quick update, I managed to wedge my multimeter between the dash and windscreen, leads going straight to the battery terminals, 14.2-14.4v on idle, took car out for a drive, still 14.2-14.4v. Heavy throttle, light starts to come on, voltage drops to 13.5v, foot off, light out, back to 14.4v...

Well, changd the belt and it has not changed anything. I had a garage check the alternator with a battery load tester. Think I'll try putting my multimeter on it, take it for a drive and see the results. Trying to find someone local, but if not, I'll just have to pay for it. Don't know if...

Hi, hoping someone can save my sanity! Middle of last week, my A4 1.9TDi Sport Avant started showing me the battery light flashing when I went past about a third of the accelerator. Let off, goes out. If I tried ignoring it, suddenly all sorts of lights come on and I lose engine power...

not had problem with rmap, but gone through a few maf sensors in the last year, common fault! also didn.t some 150's come with a ko3s? sure i read it somewhere. if ducting to airbox is similar to early a3(mine) just junk it, and route a flexible conduit (similar to those in induction kit) into...

isn't that the engine management fault warning light.? mate had same on s3 and just had it reset by audi, turned out it was a faulty temp sender . i fitted new and no problems since

sure you'll get loads on this, but a generic remap from revo/amd/custom code will up the power a bit. then, change turbo for ko3sport or ko4, or fit hybrid such as ihi. depends on money. i'm skint, got a revo remap, a dynatwist induction kit, which i might bin and forge dv, goes better, but got...

just to throw a spanner in the works, will this effect mot, as abs light must come on at start up, and disconnecting a bulb would stop this. is it same for airbag light, does it need to show and go out?

had similar probs with a mk2, ball joints and track rod arms are a first to check, cheaper than a rack.

if it was stem seals would they not burn oil all the time. rings smoke a bit if worn on start, but not usually that mileage. mines got 103k and doesn't use any oil. is it on long life servicing, as poss changing to short may help, or has turbo worn burning oil and water? odd if compression tests...

same prob with mine, but the brake one does the same, just keep an eye on it with the oil and water every week, and my mrs mk4 golf gttdi does the same, has done for three years now and never had any probs, still goes well and never overheats or any other assosciated probs. just seems to be one...

any where near electrics is not a good idea, so pretty much under bonnet is bad. but if you need to clean it get a degreaser and a paint brush or ideally one that comes with alloy wheel cleaner ( i know them as sash brushes) and work it in, then carefully rinse. it's ok to blast water at some...

have you checked the n75 map sensor, which regulates boost. dont know, but think you have one as only early cars i think like my agu didn't. mate is having same problem on leon cupra r, only when revo'd, changed maf, but seat looking into boost solenoid/n75. map sensor should regulate boost, so...