Carbon cleaning questions - inspection and carrying out

DrEvil

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Been reading quite a bit on carbon cleaning and carbon build up on the intake valves. My car has c.50k miles on the clock (2.0T TSI) so having seen some of the pics I'm expecting it might we worth inspecting.

First question - is there an easy way to inspect the valves without taking the intake cover offer - say using something like this Amazon product to have a peak inside the cover? How would you feed the scope in - through the throttle body or could you do it through a PCV hole without damaging it?

Next question depends on what I find, but is basically considering the DIY option vs get it done. If I need to change the intake cover gasket (not sure if it is leaking slightly) then I'll be more likely to DIY it. In which case I'll try the carb cleaner/plastic scraper approach. Do people recommend something stronger than carb cleaner? And what is the risk of the liquid seeping into the engine - would it likely cause any problems?

Alternative question is whether anyone has had a clean done (either manual or walnut shell blasting) done around W Herts/Beds/Bucks?

Lots of questions I know, but thanks for any help!
 
i was reading an article on this very subject over the weekend, it suggested that as a first point of attack to run the car for a few weeks or so at a more lets say" lively pace" , not thrashing it but letting the engine run at a higher RPM , over 3k as it goes into cleaning mode and the higher engine temps helps burn of some of the carbon build-up.
I supose letting it run at a higher rpm by just using a lower gear when driving is worth a go, as these engine are designed to be super effiecent etc it shouldnt be an issue to run it a bit higher than normal for set periods of driving.
just what i read on the subject.
rob
 
I can see that really helping if your starting base is low carbon deposits, but my concern is that I already have badly baked on deposits!
 
Anyone done a diagnostic on the carbon deposits without pulling the manifold cover off?
 
I've done the carbon clean up in the past. Only way to check it is to take the inlet manifold off. I just turned the crank until the valves were closed and the. Applied a lot of brake cleaner and gave them a good scrub. It's not a quick job but it makes a big difference. Then to keep them clean it's best to install water meth injection. The meth cleans the valves and helps to keep them clean reducing the risk of carbon build up. Also fit a catch can. This will cap off the breather that goes into the inlet manifold. Doesn't stop it completely but will help a lot.
 
Well I purchased the usb camera I saw and is a great little bit of kit, attached it to an old coat hanger so can control it's movements from a distance. And connects to my phone to so really easy to use.

Much easier to check on awkward to reach places around the engine now!

Took the intake manifold sensor out and the diameter of the camera was exactly the same as the gap, so with the coat hanger it wouldn't fit in and didn't want to risk it getting stuck. Also didn't fit through the point from which the pcv pipe connects.

Will be doing a throttle body clean so will try again then.
 

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Well I purchased the usb camera I saw and is a great little bit of kit, attached it to an old coat hanger so can control it's movements from a distance. And connects to my phone to so really easy to use.

Much easier to check on awkward to reach places around the engine now!

Took the intake manifold sensor out and the diameter of the camera was exactly the same as the gap, so with the coat hanger it wouldn't fit in and didn't want to risk it getting stuck. Also didn't fit through the point from which the pcv pipe connects.

Will be doing a throttle body clean so will try again then.
If you whip the throttle body out you'll have loads of room to get in. Pretty sure you'll see clogged up valves though. It wouldn't be a compete waste of time taking the manifold off, but it is a ballache first time round.
 
If you whip the throttle body out you'll have loads of room to get in. Pretty sure you'll see clogged up valves though. It wouldn't be a compete waste of time taking the manifold off, but it is a ballache first time round.
Yeah, its a matter of time available for me - so it's not so much "if" they are clogged, but "how" clogged. Guess it defines my maintenance pattern for the car this year and what work can be delayed to the summer etc.
 
Yeah, its a matter of time available for me - so it's not so much "if" they are clogged, but "how" clogged. Guess it defines my maintenance pattern for the car this year and what work can be delayed to the summer etc.
They're all the same. Clogged to the nines. Unless it's 1 year old. Even then they still get quite thick quickly.
 
They're all the same. Clogged to the nines. Unless it's 1 year old. Even then they still get quite thick quickly.
Part of what I'm wondering if whether it would affect the tune on a remap, i.e. if it was tuned on the rollers with clogged valves and then cleaned, would you be missing performance vs being tuned with clean valves? (The answer is probably it makes 1% difference and I'm wasting energy thinking about this!)
 
Part of what I'm wondering if whether it would affect the tune on a remap, i.e. if it was tuned on the rollers with clogged valves and then cleaned, would you be missing performance vs being tuned with clean valves? (The answer is probably it makes 1% difference and I'm wasting energy thinking about this!)
No I think your going down the right road mate tbh. My standard car was sluggish and basically numb. I used the same block in a different car with the same map with a new head that had been cleaned and tested.... The response was rediculous in comparison! I think it's worth all the blood sweat and tears all day long
 
Where are people who don't have time to DIY getting this done? Anybody around Oxfordshire?