Well I used this guide:
http://youtu.be/8oXIvSzIIak
Please read all info before even thinking of doing this it's not a hour job it took me close to 13 hours on a ramp. Also use this information at your own risk as it is a guide. It worked on my car but I do not guarantee it will work on yours
Well the parts list is what I used from the YouTube video.
I got all the bits from TPS apart from the oil pump where I got else where for about half the price but the oil pump was still made in Germany and was good quality as you don't want to do this job again once you finished it.
I will not name the tools listed as I virtually had all my tools out.
Things you will defiantly need is
90degree drill to drill the block
A tap and die set to tap the block to block off one of the oil feeds
A collections of nuts and bolts. M10 I think with a copper washer so once tapped the hole you can seal the the hole.
Eye protection
Angle grinder
Thin steel
High temp silicon for sump gasket
Long 3/8 wobbly Allen keys to get to the sump bolts
Drill bits to still the block
Spline drive
Allen keys
And the usual
Punches
Chisels
19mm 12 point socket half inch (impact if possible)
Good impact gun And a big compressor
As for the front gear it was a pain to remove. The sprocket that drives the oil pump/balancer shaft.
I tried a mini ductor (heat coil or what ever you call it) which never entertained it
I even tried oxyacetylene and that never entertained it so don't wast your time.
With the front gear I ended up putting some thin steel against the block and the gear and used a angle grinder to cut the gear. I got as close as I could without damaging the crank. Make sure you put a few layers of masking tape on the crankshaft. Once you are as close as you can get (2-3mm ish) use a punch and hammer the edge of the gear where you cut and it should put a shatter and the gear should creating a hairline crack near where you hit. The gear should release it self and should be fairly free spinning by hand then I used a pry bar and pry it off. (pictures below)
Also as for the oil pick up it needs to be modified. You need to get a angle grinder and cut the cup off as if you don't the sump won't go back on as the cup sits too low. I found this out and could not get the sump back on so it had to all come off again.
Some pictures of when I was doing it. I am glad I had a ramp it would of been a nightmare doing it without. It was a nightmare with a ramp so good luck if your doing it without. A lot of people I have see had a blown oil pump do they had it on a bench but if it's in the car it's a right pain. As for oil you will require a oil and oil filter. When you put the new smaller sprocket on make sure it's on the right way as shown in the YouTube video.
Also when you come to crack the front crankshaft bolt off make sure the timing belt is still fitted and that the timing tools are not in placed. Use a 19mm 12 point impact socket with a big compressor and a good impact gun. once it's cracked off tighten it back up a little bit and then do you timing pins and tool. The lower puller has a offset cut so it will only go on one way
The bolt was a 19mm 12 sided on mine I can not guarantee its the same on others.
I loosened the engine mounts and use 2 transmission jacks to lift the engine up to get the sump off. The other option is to drop the lower subframe but the engine mounts are on the subframe so you will need to secure the engine up with a hoist if your taking the frame off. Also be very careful if your using transmission jacks and don't jack it up too high.
Some pictures anyway
You will see I cut on the oil pick up cup but I had to cut it even more. Cut as close as you can without destroying the mesh. Once I had put the sump back On I got a inspection camera and looked though the sump plug hole and the oil pick up tube was virtually touching the bottom of the sump so this will restrict you oil pressure and put a lot of stress on the pump. So I had to take the sump off and cut it down even more
old balancer shaft. No play and up for sale if you want to buy it
The cut I had to make on the gear and shock it to create a hairline crack so I could pry it off
Also I would recommend changing the front main crankshaft oil seal.
I would also recommending doing 2 engine flushes.
Engine flush in
Run it up
Drain the oil
Put fresh oil in it
Engine flush in
Run it up
Drain oil again.
This will keep your engine a good clean and your oil should be golden for much longer then a day. We done a turbo once and this kept the engine oil golden for 4 weeks when it come back in for a final inspection.
Good luck if your attempting this
