yeh i wont make that mistake, transferred that over.Another thing to note is the camshaft sensor trigger wheel is also different. The S3 has multiple windows, think it has 3 and the AEB has only 1 window. I found this out the long way - car wont start as the ecu cant tell where the cam timing is.
i was aware of this, but mine doesnt have it.Is there also a raised lug on the cambelt side of the head? Where the tensioner bolts to? I'm sure I've read that the lug needs machining off if it has one.
Is there also a raised lug on the cambelt side of the head? Where the tensioner bolts to? .
Another thing to note is the camshaft sensor trigger wheel is also different. The S3 has multiple windows, think it has 3 and the AEB has only 1 window. I found this out the long way - car wont start as the ecu cant tell where the cam timing is.
Is there also a raised lug on the cambelt side of the head? Where the tensioner bolts to? I'm sure I've read that the lug needs machining off if it has one.
Thats interesting, il be sure to update when they're both apart... also... have noticed that there are differences in the valves too... the grooves seem to be set at a different position... can't remember the specifics off hand but you can't mix and match the valve train easily... I would at least check...
On K04 turbo'd engines there are also extra shims under the valve springs... can't remember off hand if its just the exhausts or if the inlets get them too (been a while since I stripped a 210/225 head) and can't remember the reason for them being there (I think it was to 'stiffen' the springs the counter the increased back pressure on K04 turbo'd engines to stop them being forced open at high RPM) but either way I would be tempted to strip the AEB head and use the valve train/cams/followers etc from your AMK head...
<tuffty/>
I am yeh, i dont plan on touching the valvetrain with the turbine housing im using, i shouldnt need to.Karl, are you using stock valve train?
FYI - supertech valve train also uses a titantium valve seat. They used to prevent the smaller exhaust valve spring from damaging the head at high rpm. Not sure if its the same thing as the shim that Tuffy has mentioned. Never opened my K04 engine.
Karl, are you using stock valve train?
FYI - supertech valve train also uses a titantium valve seat. They used to prevent the smaller exhaust valve spring from damaging the head at high rpm. Not sure if its the same thing as the shim that Tuffy has mentioned. Never opened my K04 engine.
all of those things, and still hope for the bestLooking good Karlos.
Do you pre-oil the turbo, cams, oil pipes, filter or cooler before you crank it or put in what you think is the correct amount of oil then turn it over and hope for the best?
when i did mine i unplugged coils, crank for a second like 5 times, then crank for 3 seconds 3 times, then connected coils, start it and as it starts up i switched off like 3 times. then started it final time waited till it got to normal temp and fans came on then switched off and let it cool down and look for leaks.
do you, or bill, usually fill the turbo a little bit with oil like with a syringe or something? is that a good idea? im thinking of keeping the chra injected with oil until i come to put the thing on, keep everything nice in there and can turn it by hand, afterall its been sat in a box for months.Unplug the injectors not the coil packs... won't flood the engine then when you finally come to start it properly...
I normally just turn the engine over a few times with the injectors unplugged and all is good... the build lube will take care of the bearings and all the oil poured over the valve train will keep the top end happy... just need to turn over a few times as the oil pump will be empty especially if new...
<tuffty/>
...and don't forget to fit the two plastic cam covers... this stops oil from being thrown into the PCV breather (like the windage tray in the sump)
<tuffty/>
Is the end that connects to the wastegate arm, fixed or does it unscrew? Was thinking you could find a longer piece of tube with the same threads to extend the length if you can't unscrew it far enough