TQS progress thread, From STD-Scroll-Eliminator.

I cannot believe how hard it is to find a reliable tuner. GGGRRRRR


When is it my turn?? LOL

All I do day in day out is 1.8T me7.5 and M.3.8.. Just finished a Golf AGU T304e at 404bhp 338lbft on stock ecu and VR6 housing.

These ecu dont take 5 mins to custom map, its a good days work getting to car to run stock power with the software actualy changed for VR6 maf and injecotrs this part is trial and error on the fuel side, lots of logging of the part throttle conditions and WOT vs load conditions. once this bit is right then all the other maps, fuel, load/boost, timing ect... will be scaled correct and realates to the actaul VCDS numbers. Then its a matter of tuning, more load/boost, richer mix, pull timing in or out logging and review data the good part of 3 days work on and off.

If I can have the car for 2-3 weeks, then I will remap the car £FOC in return for an honest review.. I enjoy it
 
I think it's down to you mate. Just waiting for the nod when you get this 4wd Rolling road sorted.

I couldn't say no as it was organised my my young lady bless her.

You know you were first choice mate, was even booked in once or twice.LOL
 
Just stumbled about this thread and joined. Can't open/download the spreadsheet, though.

Here is where I am:

Have a 1998 A4 AEB. Currently a K03 (hot side), K04 (wheel) hybrid running on stock injectors and what is called a "T.A.P. +50HP" chip. Boosting 18.5 psi at 4k, dropping to 10 psi at 6.5. Carbonio intake APR hoses/valve, 3" test pipe, Miltek exhaust, FMIC.

MAF readings 165 g/s. Log plot below. Injector time at 16.32 ms (max I think) already at 2400 rpm all the way to redline. n75 bleeding boost all the way.

I would like to apply your 'trick', putting a larger MAF housing on with the corresponding larger injectors (for the current setup).

a) I was told the VR6 (what years?) has 70mm ID, my current housing 60mm. Flow ratio 1.36. current injectors 210cc at 3 bar time 1.36 = 285cc. Bosch 0280156065 for the AWM motor (278cc at 3 bar) a good fit?
b) to get the larger housing installed, what do I need to modify?
c) based on the log below, can I expect an improvement?
d) what are the disadvantage of such mod?

Next KKK variation is getting ready to be installed. K04 base with larger compressor wheel/cover. Most common tune for the AEB is GIAC PC16 (31lb/325cc injectors, running on 3 bar). Using the same 1.36 ratio, that would lead to 440cc injectors (readily available).

e) can the mod be applied in the same fashion for a 'tune' as it does for a stock tune? If so, I would leave the VR6 housing mod in and source 440cc injectors (giving me some 'room' for the - hopefully - higher (200 g/s or even higher) air mass flow?

I am eager to apply your mod to my AEB, but need as much detailed help as I can get (for the physical mod of the housing) and advice/comments (on the air/injector/tune side).


LogChart031311.jpg


http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApWAk8FyaQZadHdQWXBtM1dxWnlaZ3p4OFg0QzRTZ1E&hl=en

Ok thats a log done today on super UL fuel, she is pulling back 8 degrees, so not too bad at all and pulling 152 g/s on the MAF readings.

The revs didnt register properly as i think i had too much running affecting the resolution etc.
 
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really enjoying following this thread lol. well apart from the hard times you've come upon.

if it makes you feel any better im learning a lot about getting good power from you and one or two things about what not to do lmao.

just about gathered everything i need to finish mine off, just waiting for the post man to drop of my recon GT28 turbo then ive managed to get the use of a friends ramp not far from wallace performance, so im gonna get everything fitted then whip it round to them to tune it.

im sort of in two minds about management though, cause my car is the older version it has the more basic ECU which requires a flashable chip, but if the map need to be changed so does the chip. so im tempted to either get a newer loom and ecu or standalone, cant decided.
 
More parts have been collected for my baby.

Main performance parts were a new FMIC as my other seems to have rotted out with many leaks evident with a leak test thanks to Bill and Tuffty.

IMG_2164.jpg

Old against new.

I bought a whole bolt on kit, although the IC was good the pipes were designed to be used with some OEM pipes i no longer own,lol

So a hybrid situation evolved.

Old Pipes, new IC and new clips throughout.
IMG_2166.jpg


IMG_2165.jpg


As i had scored a bargain S4 bumper to use to retro fit HID washers and levellers onto my car.

Before paintwork
100_8092.jpg


After
100_8254.jpg


Had to "trim" the bumper bar even on the S4 bumper to allow the thicker IC to fit tidy.

100_8257.jpg


IMG_2192.jpg


IMG_2191.jpg


IMG_2190.jpg


Had to make a bracket to make the IC fit, This bad boy isn't going anywhere now.

Also had to acquire some S4 side brackets to let the new bumper fit, here's the old ones.
IMG_2171.jpg


the new ones are quite a lot less complicated .
100_8250.jpg


Seeing i was getting bits painted...
100_8232-1.jpg


before
IMG_2169.jpg



During
100_8266.jpg


After, with a hint of Votex on the rear

IMG_2413-1.jpg

I stupidly didn't stop there, I chose to put some more bits on while she was off the road.

S4 vented rear brakes
IMG_2187.jpg


Some shiny new bushes and wheel bearings

IMG_2183.jpg


I couldn't leave the rear have new stuff and neglect the front so...

100_8245.jpg


They so far seem good at £25 a side, easy to fit, a lot better feel of the road.

100_8247.jpg


Added the headlight washer motor to my washer bottle for the HIDs .

100_8251.jpg

I have also added the levelling sensors and the control box so have actual legal ( mostly ) HIDs ( Ner Ner Kev He he )
rear sensor

100_8262.jpg


Front sensor
100_8271.jpg


Control box under knee bolster fo ease of acces to wiring, it normally lives under the rear seat.
100_8290.jpg

A quick vid to show them levelling, not the best, will put it against the garage door to show it properly if needed.



That's left me with ..

IMG_2416-1.jpg


IMG_2435.jpg


IMG_2436.jpg




Logs to follow to see how the new FMIC compares to the old one, but i can say that the combo of new bushes and the GMBH rear ARB make the car feel completely planted and sure footed. It rides the bumps better too, the old bushes must have been properly ******.

I may get this tweaked a bit if Nick is still willing, or hold out and possibly get hold of a Franken..... Decisions ,decisions..... LMAO ( runs and hides before the wife spots this bit)
 
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tbh, if your going to change the turbo you need to go bigger than a frankenturbo.

I've got my eye on a twinscroll thing from an Evo, unfortunately it would need a custom manifold.
 
You kept that lot under your hat. Loving your work mate, looking very nice now!

What bushes are they that you've fitted to the front?

Get a GT30 on there and stop messing around :thumbsup: chop chop.. before Inters!
 
Anyone else have any clues as to why the car feels ok, but airflow has dropped from the MRC claimed GS of 170 to the now seen 140 GS. I had a look back through the logs and noticed she pulled the 170 on Chipped UK rollers when she missed and farted producing less than stock power, just not seen it since
 
Oi Mark where did you get the levellers from? i assume one is on the rear and one of the front on opposite ends? how easy is it to fit?
 
Because you had a fapping great air leak.

You've now plugged it, so the airflow has dropped as its not all ******* out.

Unless the boost pressure has dropped as well? But afaik you said the boost had got higher, spiking up to 1.8bar, which would make sense given the fixed leak.

FWIW, 140g/sec using the 1.38x multiplier from the 3" conversion converts to 240hp...
 
Still having issues with her, 28 MPG

I have the numbers of the parts that make my turbo.

The compressor wheel is 53041232205 and the turbine is 53041205010. Not much data on this because Borg Warner doesnt post anything on OEM components
 
hmm so it IS a ETT compressor?

In that case it should be capable of waaay more than 240hp surely?

My notes say the 5010 turbine is the same size as the RS4/S3 wheel, ie 50/42mm, not 45/38?

Heres the 5010:
Turbine Wheel, KKK - KO4

And heres the 5015 used on the S3:
Turbine Wheel, KKK - KO4
 
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Thanks, do you happen to have a compressor map for the 2077?

Would i be right in thinking in comparison to the F4H-l this turbo has a slightly smaller compressor and the same turbine? I think the FT uses a 2083 wheel?
 
BorgWarner never developed an efficiency map for this particular design -- or perhaps they did but it's filed away and not published. But I was able to extrapolate data from other designs to get a pretty fair estimate of its performance, allowing me to put together this efficiency chart.
2077-series_competitive.jpg


The chief advantage of the 2077 series design is that it can just barely get squeezed into an OEM compressor casting. Ours is bigger still, requiring a new mould to accommodate it.

 
Interesting.

Do you have any thaughts on why Marks turbo seems to be so limited?

We suspect it was built using a K03-005 turbine housing rather than the k04-015 housing, do you think this could be limiting the exhaust side enough that its choking the engine and stopping it making the power?
 
Wouldn't there be a visible difference in the turbo unit then? You could always physically compare the dimensions to the SP51X that I have (that Kev will have).
 
There are many logs most of which are posted in this thread afaik? Theres also a dyno plot, showing the difference between marks 2077 equipped turbo and his old 51X. I'll link them here in a moment.

Lee, i'll certainly measure up the 51X as best i can once i get it.

The odd thing is yours is running an earlier 51mm wheel (presumably the RS4 one) rather than the similarly sized 2077 with ETT, yet made the same power...
 
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Ok found the bits i wanted:

This is the dyno plot from marks 2077 equipped turbo at its recent mapping session:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e123/audimad/TQS/mrc40001.jpg

And this is the dyno plot from his old SP51X turbo (non-ETT 51mm compressor), the one i'm about to get from Lee:
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e123/audimad/remap.jpg

The new turbo seems to tail off really early even though the new turbo has a better downpipe and exhaust setup than the old one had.

Some logs:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc...W9IeUJSZDVPTFlhUUZtWkE&hl=en&authkey=CMKJtN8K

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc...213WWVTbDBXSVY0c2d1Wnc&hl=en&authkey=CPP_3psG

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc...WFOUGZUeldxZGlBNm9lU1E&hl=en&authkey=CNj-x4kH

Cheers for the help!
 
we're not sure what they've done with the airflow figures unfortunately, but assuming 1.36 is still valid, 140g/sec suggests around 240hp.
 
This is the problem mark is battling with.

The early logs were showing as high at 167, but now that he's fixed his leaking intercooler they've dropped to ~140.

MRC have claimed the car was doing ~170 on their dyno when they mapped it, but have also said the intercooler wasnt leaking when they had the car.
 
Well, still no closer to the 170 that was claimed and seen on the failed run once.

After that i have been unable to get anything close, new MAF, FMIC, boost leak tests up the Wazoo

I have tried an MBC and logged at 1.0 bar, 1.2 and 1.5

AFR has been logged and that was 12.3 @ 4k , 11.2 @ 5k and 12.4 @ 6k

I also noted that it wasn't holding boost too well up the rev range so have tweaked the actuator and now hold boost much better up the top end, but oddlly has made no odds to the airflow.

The turbo seems ok, no real play, holds boost, just doesnt seem to be converting it to power. Next step i think is an FT with 3 inch tip from Doug.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...DZGSlkxNE5CQWdjcXRWU0xsQTVMMWc&hl=en_US#gid=0
my poor brakes and fuel economy have taken a heavy hit this last few weeks logging and logging and more logging

I note that i am pulling quite high timing currently too, that will have some impact but not the 30-40 GS i am supposed to have extra

I also noted that the injectors are coping at 80% Duty cycle which is good ( using this calculator )

I have no idea what else to do
 
I said the same the other night lol.

Full frame means a new manifold, but it means you can buy a used turbo from ebay for 1 or 2 hundred quid

FT is going to be near enough a grand once delivered with customs etc added on top.

I'd bet you could build a T28 setup for half that, and if you factor in selling the old parts, i'd say you could go from your existing setup to T28 for not much at all.