A3 sub wiring question

Von Maximo

Von Maximo

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Hey Guy’s

Anyone know about the wiring to the A3 non bose sub in the boot?

I’m looking to replace the sub in the boot with a sub that fits under the front seat. This I’m hoping will provide a more defined bass to the system. I've already got the sub and it fits nicely under the seat but I need to hijack the wiring to the sub in the boot



[URL="http://www.pioneer.co.uk/images/products/carspeakers/pioneer/tswx11a_detailpage.jpg"][URL="http://www.pioneer.co.uk/images/products/carspeakers/pioneer/tswx11a_detailpage.jpg"][/URL][/URL]

The wires that go to the sub seem to be in two separate groups on the connector

Red / Blue tracer
White / black tracer
Blue / Black tracer
Red / Yellow tracer
Brown / Yellow tracer

White
Orange / Brown Tracer
Orange / Purple tracer
Green
Grey
Yellow

The wires that I need to identify are:
Continuous power supply
Switched power supply
Negative / earth
Speakers + & -


Any help will be much apreciated
 
Is it an 8L A3 or the current 8P A3?
Here are the pin outs of the 8L A3 non Bose sub loom.
The problem you will have is that the sub amp inside the sub enclosure also powers the rear speakers on the non Bose system, so if you disconnect the connector you also lose the rear speakers.
Also you can't use the permanent live on the connector as it is only a 5amp connection, I'm assuming the Pioneer unit is more powerful than 60wrms. If it isn't then it will pretty ineffective anyway. You need to run a new power cable to power the sub.
A3subloompinouts.jpg
 
The vehicle is an 8P 2004 non bose

I know what you mean about loosing the rear speakers. Is there any way of powering this sub without loosing the rear speakers?

Also the live feed that is needed requires 10 amp. Will i need to power this sub from else where? i.e. direct from battery? (fused of course)
 
Yes, as I already said you need to run a separate feed from the 75x terminals under the steering column, or better still from the battery.
If you unplug the connector then you lose the rear speakers. So you either keep the connector plugged in and disconnect the sub speaker and use this connection to feed the subs speaker input (not recommended as this won't be a pure signal - already distorted by the £2.50 Audi amp), or piggyback onto the rear pre-out connections going into the rear/sub amp. This would be my recommendation but again not easy as there's limited space and the cables will be really bunched together.
Another option would be to open up the standard enclosure and solder an RCA lead onto the amp inside where it connects to the loom. But more work as you need to get the tupperware sub out.
That Pioneer unit is only the same power as the stock sub, so not really convinced it'll give you anything better than stock especially floating about under the seat.
 
agree with andy
i dont think that sub is going to give you the improvement you are after
its only the same power as the other unit and is again made from tupperware
if you have the spare boot space id suggest a more conventional sub
like jl audio with good amplification
 
dualmono21 said:
agree with andy
i dont think that sub is going to give you the improvement you are after
its only the same power as the other unit and is again made from tupperware
if you have the spare boot space id suggest a more conventional sub
like jl audio with good amplification
Click to expand...

Understand what you are saying. Only problem is that I dont have the room for a a conventional sub as I need all the space in the boot that I have. I thought that this was a good alternative as even though the bass power is not a massive increase, the fact that i would be moving the bass source from behind all the cladding in the boot into the main cabin of the car.

Any ideas or suggestions?
 
That's exactly why I developed the stealth sub. It replaces the stock tupperware sub, is powered by a 4ch amp fitted behind the rear speaker panel, which also powers the rear speakers. No additional space taken up & totally hidden install. The only additional wiring needed is a 40amp power cable, the amp itself being driven off the standard sub loom via a small adapter.
 
AndyMac said:
That's exactly why I developed the stealth sub. It replaces the stock tupperware sub, is powered by a 4ch amp fitted behind the rear speaker panel, which also powers the rear speakers. No additional space taken up & totally hidden install. The only additional wiring needed is a 40amp power cable, the amp itself being driven off the standard sub loom via a small adapter.
Click to expand...

Is this available for the 8P though?
 
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