Does anyone know where i can get this problem repaired as i called up my audio specialist and they say they wont touch it cause its too complicated as its the Bose system. I tried contacting my Audi Dealership and they dont deal with it either?? Live in London, anyone know somewhere not to far from W8 or W14 i can go to??
Base in my Audi S3 keeps cutting out intermittently. Help!!
- Thread starter gwiz6193
- Start date
AndyMac
Retired from service
It'll be the sub that's cutting out, as it's the only source of any bass in the Bose system. Try unplugging the black connector on it and plugging it back in. It may have just an intermmitant connection.
Is it totally random or only when you play it loud?
Can you make it cut out by moving the wiring on the loom around?
Should be an easy fix. I'm in Southampton so not exactly local unfortunately.
Is it totally random or only when you play it loud?
Can you make it cut out by moving the wiring on the loom around?
Should be an easy fix. I'm in Southampton so not exactly local unfortunately.
The base cuts out sometimes, but quite a lot of the time it goes of and it has just gotten worse as time has gone by. Where would i find this black connector? i havent looked at the sub or touched anything yet too scared of damaging it.
Also when the sub is working do you know a way to turn down teh power on the sub as im having to put the base equalizer on the head unit on -4 to make it somewhat respectable and even then it's still quite strong. I have the original Audi Blaukpunkt HU, thinkin of upgrading it to the
Alpine Mobile Media with pop out screen Unit.
Also when the sub is working do you know a way to turn down teh power on the sub as im having to put the base equalizer on the head unit on -4 to make it somewhat respectable and even then it's still quite strong. I have the original Audi Blaukpunkt HU, thinkin of upgrading it to the
Alpine Mobile Media with pop out screen Unit.
AndyMac
Retired from service
Look in the left cubbyhole, the black connector runs down the front of the sub (where the speakers are) and is clipped to it on the far side. You should be able to get a hand in to wiggle it in order to see if it's just a loose/dirty connection.
Andy am I right in thinking this connection is just a spade type like on my A4 or is it one of the difficult to remove other sleeved audi type?
AndyMac
Retired from service
It's a mini spade type with a bit more room than the A4 version. Here's a pic of the male side which is the sub side, the loom itself is female:
The female loom side is:
The female loom side is:
Hi Andy,
I did what you told me to look at and the connection was intact tight as if the car was new. The radio or audi system has never been tampered with whatsoever. However i did try disconnecting that wire and reconnecting but it still has the same problem with the base coming on and off. U thin i should just take it into another audi dealership or is there something that can spare me the hassle of booking it in for repair???
I did what you told me to look at and the connection was intact tight as if the car was new. The radio or audi system has never been tampered with whatsoever. However i did try disconnecting that wire and reconnecting but it still has the same problem with the base coming on and off. U thin i should just take it into another audi dealership or is there something that can spare me the hassle of booking it in for repair???
AndyMac
Retired from service
Sounds like it may be a duff earth to me, VAG-COM can find these I believe.
What do you think Andy??
What do you think Andy??
AndyMac
Retired from service
It could be any number of things:
duff earth, though the Bose sub isn't earthed to the back of the car, it's earthed via the loom, which goes back to the Bose amp on the other side of the car, not sure where it's terminated.
Remote on dropping below 12v
Remote on bad connection at the connector
Dry joint somewhere on the sub amp PCB.
If you can get a testing screwdriver or multimeter onto the connector, test whether the connector is getting 12v on both the perm live and the remote on when the bass cuts out.
Is there any pattern to when the bass cuts out? Is it related to volume or ambient temperature i.e. is it always OK before the amp has warmed up?
duff earth, though the Bose sub isn't earthed to the back of the car, it's earthed via the loom, which goes back to the Bose amp on the other side of the car, not sure where it's terminated.
Remote on dropping below 12v
Remote on bad connection at the connector
Dry joint somewhere on the sub amp PCB.
If you can get a testing screwdriver or multimeter onto the connector, test whether the connector is getting 12v on both the perm live and the remote on when the bass cuts out.
Is there any pattern to when the bass cuts out? Is it related to volume or ambient temperature i.e. is it always OK before the amp has warmed up?
andy is there thermal protection on the bose systems ??
if the amp is being driven hard it could be going into protection (thermal) and then dropping below temp could cut back in
if the amp is being driven hard it could be going into protection (thermal) and then dropping below temp could cut back in
AndyMac
Retired from service
Could be, that's why I asked if it only happened at high volume. But the Bose sub distorts so badly even at relatively low volumes you'd have to be half deaf to put up with it long enough for any thermal cut off to kick in. I've had one on the bench and the whole enclosure vibrates and farts so much you could actually race them!
I have the Bose amd I kick the **** out of it at times, and other than its random level changes 5 mins after initial power up, its never thermal cut out.
Although when its REALLY hot outside it does affect the sound quality.
Although when its REALLY hot outside it does affect the sound quality.
Hi Andy,
Not sure exactly what you mean by that, u want me to get a multi tester and check that each of the pins on that connection are getting 12v?? What else can i replace or do to resolve this since i am not much of a technician and do not understand technical terms etc...
Please help thanks, any Audi Audio Specialits you know in London who can help me on this apart from the main dealer cause its just hassle booking it in and waiting...
Not sure exactly what you mean by that, u want me to get a multi tester and check that each of the pins on that connection are getting 12v?? What else can i replace or do to resolve this since i am not much of a technician and do not understand technical terms etc...
Please help thanks, any Audi Audio Specialits you know in London who can help me on this apart from the main dealer cause its just hassle booking it in and waiting...
AndyMac
Retired from service
No just the perm live and remote on pins as detailed above.
Sounds like you need to find a proper local ICE installer. They do exist, just hard to find. Do NOT take it to Audi dealer unless it's still under warranty, they know FA about car hifi, you really don't want a mechanic ripping everything out and just replacing it all until it works @ £90+ per hour, the bill will be enormous.
Sounds like you need to find a proper local ICE installer. They do exist, just hard to find. Do NOT take it to Audi dealer unless it's still under warranty, they know FA about car hifi, you really don't want a mechanic ripping everything out and just replacing it all until it works @ £90+ per hour, the bill will be enormous.
Hi Andy again,
sorry im bothering you with these questions, can you indicate to me which pin is the perm live so i can check tmrrw with the multimeter tester?? also if they do not drop below 12v what do you reckon i should guess i shoudl just take the car down to ICE audio specialist. If it is what do i have to replace??
Thanks for your help, appreciate it...
sorry im bothering you with these questions, can you indicate to me which pin is the perm live so i can check tmrrw with the multimeter tester?? also if they do not drop below 12v what do you reckon i should guess i shoudl just take the car down to ICE audio specialist. If it is what do i have to replace??
Thanks for your help, appreciate it...
AndyMac
Retired from service
On the loom side of the connector you'll see the brown earth in one corner with no wire next to it, the perm live and remote on are at the other end side by side. The remote on should be 12v+ with the HU on and drop to 0v when off. The perm live should be 12v all the time. Obviously you'll need to wait until the fault develops before testing. The connector is clipped to the sub enclosure so if you can unclip it then you may be able to get to the sub side of the wiring without removing the boot trim, but it'll be tricky working through the small cubbyhole opening. Ideally remove the boot trim so you can get proper access to the sub.
I suspect if it is a wiring problem (rather than the amp itself inside the enclosure) then it's most likely the remote on, as this is very low current, so any slight breakdown in the connections will mean it'll drop voltage very easily. The perm live is carrying all the current so can withstand a bit of resistance in the wiring. The remote on is just a trigger to the relay in the amp to turn it on/off with the HU.
Without taking the whole sub out, it's going to be difficult to establish if the dodgy connection is on the other side of the loom (the wiring going to the amp). This is also a weak link as the wires are soldered onto the circuit board inside the amp and it could be something as simple as a dry joint on this connection. Dry solder joints are very common as equipment gets older, and can be intermittant so difficult to find. In these situations I would run a soldering iron over the soldered joints on the pcb to ensure they are all OK, but you need to remove the sub in order to do this, which is quite a job as there's lots of trim to remove to get to it. If you need instructions on how to do this then PM me your email address and I'll send them over.
I suspect if it is a wiring problem (rather than the amp itself inside the enclosure) then it's most likely the remote on, as this is very low current, so any slight breakdown in the connections will mean it'll drop voltage very easily. The perm live is carrying all the current so can withstand a bit of resistance in the wiring. The remote on is just a trigger to the relay in the amp to turn it on/off with the HU.
Without taking the whole sub out, it's going to be difficult to establish if the dodgy connection is on the other side of the loom (the wiring going to the amp). This is also a weak link as the wires are soldered onto the circuit board inside the amp and it could be something as simple as a dry joint on this connection. Dry solder joints are very common as equipment gets older, and can be intermittant so difficult to find. In these situations I would run a soldering iron over the soldered joints on the pcb to ensure they are all OK, but you need to remove the sub in order to do this, which is quite a job as there's lots of trim to remove to get to it. If you need instructions on how to do this then PM me your email address and I'll send them over.
