new turbo

My turbo whistles so i just live with it.

When i first got my A3 the turbo whistled & everyone said its was ******. I spent x amount on a brand new unit & x amount again on fitting. It was fitted & same noise so i know the turbo is ok.
It can be sat idling & all quiet then the panpipes start. If i blip the throttle it stops again for a bit.
Driving along it whistles whilst it spinning up & when cold i can hear the DV. I know the turbo is ok so i,m not worried about it.
 
There should be a little more lag from the K03S due to it been a larger turbo but not kicking in until double that of a k03 is mental. You almost definately have a boost leak, try smothering ALL intake and feed pipes with a mix of fairy liquid and water. If its the pipe clips I reccomend replacing them all with mikalor hose clamps as you can get them much tighter and they tidy things up alot too.

I would also recomend checking your boost actuator which would also go to explain overboost.
 
The new turbo is all plumbed in and guess what still getting the same whistle, so it's got to be a boost leak, might just buy some new silcone hoses, would that washing up liquid work when its not boosting, would it work just by revving it, just changed the alternator cause that was whining now it wants to whistle, what's it gonna do next
 
was gonna spray around the pipe work with some soapy water today but then thought.... these hoses get air sucked through them not blown through so i wouldnt get any bubbles, it would just suck the water in the air leak, am i right in thinking this??
 
No as it's boosting so it's forcing air through the pipes at a high pressure to fill the cylinders with as much air as possible hence why the pipes expand when boosting. But you may not find out at idle as it may only leak at a certain boost pressure when there is load on the engine as you won't create any boost at idle.
 
wouldnt that push air back through the airfilter though??? is there a way i can check where the leak is coming from??
 
No as the turbo is sucking the air from the filter to create the boost in the pipework you can do a boost leak test by taking the oil cap off, remove the pancake/hockey puck valve of the intake and blank the pipe then get something that will go over the MAF housing with a tyre valve in it then charge the system through it with a tyre gauge but don't go past 15psi a you may blow seals so it's a good idea to have someone watch your boost gauge whilst you check your pipe work.
 
I DIY'd my own -

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It was one of the blanking caps of the exhaust extractors at work it had a whole already in it so just pulled a tyre valve through and it's as tight as a nuns **** lol and fits perfectly on the MAF housing with a jubilee and then just found something to bung the intake pipe up. Worked a treat.
 
gonna take a trip round some hardware stores tomorrow see if i can find something to make this boost leak tester, watched a couple of vids on youtube showing a couple of ways to make them, car went for its mot yesterday an failed on emissions, im hoping its down to the boost leak, emissions are always a ball ache trying to sort out
 
there's a boost leak test on there done on a TT and they used a bean can, i just tried this an it squashed the can, the only thing i can think of to what they did is drill a hole in both ends, where as i used 1 of them where you have a pull ring to pull the lid off
 
Thats kinda useless then!

A lot can be gleaned from the figures on the sheet. A failed cat would give different figures to a faulty lambda sensor or MAF for instance.

Without that info your just guessing at any number of possible causes.
 
i know im gonna go bk tomorrow an see if i can get it or get another 1 done
 
i went round all the local stores, pochins, B&Q, buildbase, homebase and a couple others and couldnt find anything, gutter down pipe was just the right size but couldnt find anything to cap the end, so went home to make a cup of coffee an when i opened the suger jar i thought if i could get something like this in the right size it would do the job, so shot out down the nearest tic-tac shop an found this

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found a leak, it was coming from 1 of the injectors, the far bk 1
 
never touched the injectors before, does this mean its just come lose an needs pushing bk in or has a seal gone and i need to replace it, is it hard to remove
 
got my emissions sheet off the mot place
min max
fast idle test

CO level 9.87% fail -- 0.30

HC level 301ppm fail -- 200

lambda 0.75 fail 0.97 1.03

second fast idle test

CO level 10.41% fail -- 0.30

HC level 342ppm fail -- 200

lambda 0.73 fail 0.97 1.03


natural idle speed

CO level 3.09 fail -- 0.50



think i failed my emissions:crying:
 
oh and my manifold has got a crack in it now:banghead:, i did find a secondhand 1 on fleebay but it says its for the apu engine would it still fit the aeb engine
 
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It will fit yes, but its small port. Fine if no future upgrades planned.

I'd be more worried about the high C02 etc, signs of a worn engine or blocked breather
 
At a guess, your lambda sensor is fried.

That or there is a major leak pre-lambda.

The HC's are sensible, which means the engine IS burning the fuel, theres just far too much of it.
 
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Vagcom ordered should get that sometime mid week, are them manifolds any good on fleebay? Rang around and most places don't sell them
 
Id go for an ATP high flow manifold eBay number 200623006159 which is similar to the FT one I have but then you need longer bolts or threaded bar and nuts.

Here's mine
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I have a my old standard manifold at work ill check for any cracks and you can have it if you cover postage PM me if interested.
 
sweet cheers bud, pm sent, why is it blanked off where there turbo bolts on:uhm:
 
That's a from the top view. The port is underneath here's a pic of mine fitted as you can see it's nearly double in size to the oem manifold hence why you have to use threaded bar and nuts as the rear bolt closest to the engine I had to insert the threaded bar from the bottom wind the nut as much as I could up top then align the turbo upto it as the bar won't clear the rocker cover wasnt that bad of a job to do and didn't struggle to say that some ppl have said there a b****** to fit.

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You can use the BEX coded manifold aswell cant you? Thats bigger than the B5 1.8t manifolds so should flow a bit better. Or buy the THS manifold which is based on the ATP item im sure.
 
sorted out out the vagcom (what a ball ache to install) and its come up with 8 fault codes, here goes

18010 - P1602 - power supply (B+) terminal 30 low voltage

16500 - P0116 - engine coolant temp. circ range/performance

16518 - P0134 - 02 sensor circ. bank 1 - sensor no activerty detected

17978 - P1570 - control module locked

16705 - P0321 - ign/distributor eng. speed inp. circ range/performance

00561 ???? couldnt find this 1

00670 ???? think this 1 is throttle position sensor

16705 - P0123 - throttle/pedal pos. sensor A circ high input

ABS

00290 ????

00287 ????

cant any1 give me any help with these plz
 
00561 is to do with mixture adaptation iirc had this on mine when the gasket blew on the decat when I didn't tighten up the b**** of a nut under the manifold properly. Replaced it when I did the FT conversion and haven't seen it since.

I'd be clearing the codes going for a 10min drive and then see what pops up.
 
As above you need to clear them, then see what comes back. But the mixture/lambda codes will likely be the cause of your emissions.
 
some1 on here had a link for rosstec page with all the fault codes, really good sit, helps out loads, way better than the 1 for op-com, i know 1 is the boost leak and the cracked manifold and another 1 i think with my old turbo being fuk'd has clogged up my lambda sensor, another 1 is my immobiliser playing up, another being a air leak on 1 of my injectors, need to change both rear ABS sensors.
not sure about these though 16705, 00561, 00670

this is the web page

Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki
 
yea 00561 comes up with boost leak as a possible fault, i found that ive got a hole in my exhaust some where near the cat/flex on my middle pipe, not had a chance to have a look where its coming from
 
Clear the codes away, and then drive the car for 15mins and scan again.

The ECU will store codes up, and will show them even if they're no longer relevant.

If you clear them, then any that come back need immediate attention.
 
Clear the codes as you may be ******* in the wind with some fault codes.

Then see what codes you have to be sure you are checking the right fault codes for your faults !!
 
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