Brake and Headlights

[caz1]

Hi

I have 02 Audi A4 TDi it is constantly needing new bulbs in brake lights and now the headlights (dipped) have started to go as well - has anyone else had this problem and how can I fix it??

 

[devil666x]

Hi

I have 02 Audi A4 TDi it is constantly needing new bulbs in brake lights and now the headlights (dipped) have started to go as well - has anyone else had this problem and how can I fix it??

Same problem mate. I just keep changing them. cheaper to get a 75pence bulb and spending 5 mins to change it than paying someone 60quid to run a diag test on it. also audi quoted me 55 quid to have one break light changed.

currently im on the following:
both number plate lights
rear left brake light
front left dipped light
rear right light

gonna be changing them this weekend. these went in the last week.

 

[aragorn]

buy better quality bulbs?

My local factors does proper "Ring" bulbs and i've never had a problem with them. Cheap crap will last about 10 minutes.

 

[devil666x]

buy better quality bulbs?

My local factors does proper "Ring" bulbs and i've never had a problem with them. Cheap crap will last about 10 minutes.

Tried that mate. tried some bulbs costing 20 quid for a pair, dunno what it was called, some performance ones (im not that into car performance and upgrade as you can tell lol).

 

[jisumfish]

Yes, same here lost count of how many headlight bulbs I've had to replace. Even tried an expensive set of the internet, can't remember the make, but they were nearly 30 quid - didn't last any longer. Would like to know what the answer is?

 

[caz1]

Thanks for the advice. Guess I'll just have to keep the local garage in business - they charge a fiver for headlight bulb. Do my bit for the economy!

 

[aragorn]

tis a very odd one, in the year and a bit we;ve had our B5, the only bulb ive had to change was a number plate lamp for the MOT, and a sidelight bulb just a few weeks ago. I fitted some facelift headlights and transferred the old bulbs from the old headlamps over, and they're still going fine, even though the filaments looked a bit crappy at the time.

How often are you talking about changing them? Its one thing to have a few different bulbs all fail around the same time, (the car is 6-8years old and they're probably original) and another to have the same lamps blowing all the time.

 

[PetrolDave]

Tried that mate. tried some bulbs costing 20 quid for a pair, dunno what it was called, some performance ones (im not that into car performance and upgrade as you can tell lol).

What you need is the sort of double filament bulbs that are the Audi OE fitment, these absorb mechanical and temperature shocks much better than the standard Halfrauds stuff so they last longer.

"Performance" bulbs are LESS reliable than standard ones - since the filaments are run at a higher temperature and become more brittle.

 

[Macduff]

"Performance" bulbs are LESS reliable than standard ones - since the filaments are run at a higher temperature and become more brittle.

Not in my experience. I ran a pair of Phillips VisionPlus H4s in my Honda VFR for over 20k miles until they both blew within a hundred miles of each other. That to me says that the quality is good and very consistent. The OEM bulbs lasted about 5k before one blew. Bear in mind that bulbs on bikes have a much harder life than cars due to all the extra vibrations.

I also had VisionPlus in our Bora and Lupo. They lasted about 29k in the Lupo before we sold it and about 40k in the Bora before we sold that.

I would suggest that the OPs problem is over-voltage reducing the bulb life. A small increase over the usual 12 or so volts will have a significant effect on bulb life.

 

[PetrolDave]

If it were over-voltage how come it affects more than one OP? Short bulb life is a widespread problem on B6/B7s.

IMHO it's using cheap single wound filament bulbs that cannot cope with the vibration and temperature variations (don't foget B6/B7 headlights are prone to having moisture ingress which makes the conditions harsher than most car headllights).

The point I was making about "performance" bulbs is that an expensive higher power and/or brighter bulb is not a guarantee of longer life - those from a reputable manufacturer like Philips (who business started out purely as lighting) should always be more reliable. It's the unbranded or own brand performance bulbs that are the ones to avoid.

 

[aragorn]

any perceptible over voltage would start to affect other things very quickly though.

The ideal voltage to charge a 12V lead acid battery is 14.1v, and most cars alternator will output 14-14.2v. any higher than 14.4v and you'll kill the cells in the battery pretty quickly, and any significant increase over this would flag a fault code and bring up the engine management light.

 

[Macduff]

If it were over-voltage how come it affects more than one OP? Short bulb life is a widespread problem on B6/B7s.

IMHO it's using cheap single wound filament bulbs that cannot cope with the vibration and temperature variations (don't foget B6/B7 headlights are prone to having moisture ingress which makes the conditions harsher than most car headllights).

Only making a suggestion. I had to change three bulbs on our B6 in 4.5 years - sidelight, tail light and rear indicator. I wouldn't say that was a huge problem.

B6 headlights are open to the atmosphere which is why the get condensation inside.

 

[ScottyP45]

vibration can cause filament failure as you know, and it seems to be more diesels that suffer from bulb problems - check the motor mounts especially the hydraulic ones that damp the vibes - could be that?

Ive had the same problems with previous diesel motors and not with petrols so from my own experience maybe thats the reason.

You can of course put LED ones in where possible, and that will sort those ones out since LED's are very tough and not at all susceptible to vibration or atmosphere. (solid glass and no filament)

Then you would only have the headlights to worry about