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  1. #1
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    fitted 35mm H&R springs and S3 brakes

    finally got round to get my S3 brakes fitted with EBC yellowstuff pads. rear splash plates didnt go on, but thats no biggy. Braking power is as good as my acceleration I used to miss junctions with the standard 2.0tdi brake setup. Also got 35mm H&R spings fitted and although drop doesnt look much lower on front, rear is better. The car looks more flat and balanced if you get what I mean, BUT they are soo much more comfortable that standard sports springs, very impressed with that. Will get some pics up soon as its had a wax and polish.


    A3 2.0 TDI Optics Black S-Line, FR&RTuning Stage 3! GT20 Hybrid Turbo, THS TFSI FMIC, Sachs performance clutch kit+SMF, Milltek 2.5" Turbo-Back Non-Res Exhaust, ITG Maxogen Induction, EGR Delete with FR&RTuning Map out, Custom Black 18" RS4, 35mm H&R springs, S3 brakes, EBC Yellowstuff, front splitter, HID Xenons, S3 tailgate Spoiler, 09 Rear Lights, Retrofit Audi Ipod, S3 Air vents, Bose sound+retrofit JBL Subwoofer 1200W.
    Milltek Cat-back Non-Res for S3 2.0T FOR SALE both 3dr and 5dr PM

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  3. #2
    devonmikeyboy's Avatar
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    Off topic mate but why do you want to run water/methanol for ?
    06 Audi 2.0 PD140 Sport TDI Quattro S-LINE.
    Old engine 330 bhp @ flywheel 263 bhp @ wheel 490 lb torque. Audidriver write up HERE
    Now stripped and playing with an uprated Cryo treated engine fitted with bigger turbo,water/methanol,uprated injectors etc etc.Wanting 400 bhp and 500 lb torque.

    Other car 500+ bhp MK4 Golf R32 turbo.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by devonmikeyboy View Post
    Off topic mate but why do you want to run water/methanol for ?
    all the main reasons for using methanol/water. clean combustion chambers, Reduce the intake charge temperature up to 55C, results in a denser more powerful air/fuel charge, allows you to run safely more boost and some say more MPG and also I get a digital dash boost gauge


    A3 2.0 TDI Optics Black S-Line, FR&RTuning Stage 3! GT20 Hybrid Turbo, THS TFSI FMIC, Sachs performance clutch kit+SMF, Milltek 2.5" Turbo-Back Non-Res Exhaust, ITG Maxogen Induction, EGR Delete with FR&RTuning Map out, Custom Black 18" RS4, 35mm H&R springs, S3 brakes, EBC Yellowstuff, front splitter, HID Xenons, S3 tailgate Spoiler, 09 Rear Lights, Retrofit Audi Ipod, S3 Air vents, Bose sound+retrofit JBL Subwoofer 1200W.
    Milltek Cat-back Non-Res for S3 2.0T FOR SALE both 3dr and 5dr PM

  5. #4
    devonmikeyboy's Avatar
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    I think you need to stop listening to who ever keeps pushing you to buy all this stuff and quoting the sales blurb when you don`t really know what your talking about. What boost is your turbo running at the moment then and why if you have such a huge over sized FMIC are you not getting your inlet temps down to 55 C anyway. If your turbo is running the max safe boost already for it`s components you can do what ever you like to the engine and air temps if you raise the boost any higher you are likely to damage the turbo or start to run it out of it`s A/F efficiency range anyway. There is no way in hell you will get more mpg either. I am not having a personal attack on you by the way but it just seems that somebody is using you as a guinea pig to buy products that you don`t need. If you want more power fit bigger injectors and a larger turbo.
    06 Audi 2.0 PD140 Sport TDI Quattro S-LINE.
    Old engine 330 bhp @ flywheel 263 bhp @ wheel 490 lb torque. Audidriver write up HERE
    Now stripped and playing with an uprated Cryo treated engine fitted with bigger turbo,water/methanol,uprated injectors etc etc.Wanting 400 bhp and 500 lb torque.

    Other car 500+ bhp MK4 Golf R32 turbo.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by devonmikeyboy View Post
    I think you need to stop listening to who ever keeps pushing you to buy all this stuff and quoting the sales blurb when you don`t really know what your talking about. What boost is your turbo running at the moment then and why if you have such a huge over sized FMIC are you not getting your inlet temps down to 55 C anyway. If your turbo is running the max safe boost already for it`s components you can do what ever you like to the engine and air temps if you raise the boost any higher you are likely to damage the turbo or start to run it out of it`s A/F efficiency range anyway. There is no way in hell you will get more mpg either. I am not having a personal attack on you by the way but it just seems that somebody is using you as a guinea pig to buy products that you don`t need. If you want more power fit bigger injectors and a larger turbo.
    ha! what makes you think someone is using me as a guinepig, whats wrong with doing your own research? Im not easiloy convinced and when I am I dont cut corners. My turbo is running 1.8bar solid, ive seen the ECU boost map so know what im talking about. Ive even seen the turbo compressor map and checked out the AF ratio! You cant get a bigger hyrbid turbo otherwise the housing becomes too thin! and i dont want to go down the route of changing any additional pipework. I think your forgetting, Im not trying to make a race car, I use it everyday, so I need it to drive well and reliabily. I think maybe your knowledge is not as flexible, see this link for methonal/water used to increase power by 35WHP and 4 more MPG (http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=94). and yes my intake temperarate never goes over 40ocelicus! so I wouldnt buy it to reduce air temperature. My turbo is good for running up to 2bar so I wouldnt mind raising this with this kit. if you read methonal is not only used for cooling but also for combustion catalyst, similar to NOS! diesel doesnt burn as violently as petrol thats why the engine doesnt rev too high, BUT if you can get it to burn more effeciently, no reason why you cant get more power, turbo wouldnt come into this! anyway lets just stick to what the thread that has been posted, everyones knowledge and interpretation is different, if everyone thought the same the world will be a very boring place for anyone who want to make there own mind up see link http://www.snowperformance.net/faqs_...hp?type=diesel


    A3 2.0 TDI Optics Black S-Line, FR&RTuning Stage 3! GT20 Hybrid Turbo, THS TFSI FMIC, Sachs performance clutch kit+SMF, Milltek 2.5" Turbo-Back Non-Res Exhaust, ITG Maxogen Induction, EGR Delete with FR&RTuning Map out, Custom Black 18" RS4, 35mm H&R springs, S3 brakes, EBC Yellowstuff, front splitter, HID Xenons, S3 tailgate Spoiler, 09 Rear Lights, Retrofit Audi Ipod, S3 Air vents, Bose sound+retrofit JBL Subwoofer 1200W.
    Milltek Cat-back Non-Res for S3 2.0T FOR SALE both 3dr and 5dr PM

  7. #6
    devonmikeyboy's Avatar
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    OK like i said it wasn`t a personal attack on you or anything. I have a snow performance stage 3 kit on my Audi and it`s a good piece of kit. So your fitting a w/m kit so you can raise your boost by 0.2 bar great. I know about and use water/methanol myself so have a ruff idea what i am talking about but if you want to believe the sales blurb carry on it`s your money. The only way methanol is a "diesel catalyst" is because it ignites at a lower compression then diesel therefore helping the diesel to heat up and burn same as propane only methanol has a lower calorific rating then diesel or propane therefore producing less power then diesel or propane for the same quantity of liquid injected. Injecting water into an engine be it petrol or diesel does not add power as water isn`t an oxidizing agent or a fuel. If you intend to run more boost you also need more diesel fuel injected. If your injectors are maxed out ( which you know of coarse how many mg/cycle your injectors can flow) you cannot get more diesel fuel without changing your I/Q which then you start to get pre detonation but you know this. You might want to go on to TDIclub and do some reading from high end diesel tuners who use water/methanol and read how and why they run it.
    06 Audi 2.0 PD140 Sport TDI Quattro S-LINE.
    Old engine 330 bhp @ flywheel 263 bhp @ wheel 490 lb torque. Audidriver write up HERE
    Now stripped and playing with an uprated Cryo treated engine fitted with bigger turbo,water/methanol,uprated injectors etc etc.Wanting 400 bhp and 500 lb torque.

    Other car 500+ bhp MK4 Golf R32 turbo.

  8. #7
    4th Gear

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    rear side shot before:


    Now with H&R springs


    Not the best of shots but Il get some closer to the wheels are arches. Cant see the brakes either in this shot. Springs have settled now and have no complaints. I also did some weight measurements of the standard brake setup and s3 brakes setup. S3 brakes are **** loads more heavy than standard. Sure thats killed some WHP. I post them later also when I find the paper I wrote them on :P


    A3 2.0 TDI Optics Black S-Line, FR&RTuning Stage 3! GT20 Hybrid Turbo, THS TFSI FMIC, Sachs performance clutch kit+SMF, Milltek 2.5" Turbo-Back Non-Res Exhaust, ITG Maxogen Induction, EGR Delete with FR&RTuning Map out, Custom Black 18" RS4, 35mm H&R springs, S3 brakes, EBC Yellowstuff, front splitter, HID Xenons, S3 tailgate Spoiler, 09 Rear Lights, Retrofit Audi Ipod, S3 Air vents, Bose sound+retrofit JBL Subwoofer 1200W.
    Milltek Cat-back Non-Res for S3 2.0T FOR SALE both 3dr and 5dr PM

  9. #8
    2nd Gear

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    looks good mate side pictures would be good for a before and after comparrison

 

 

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