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  1. #1
    TAC
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    Car Polish what is best?????

    Right I have always used AutoGlym products over the years to care for my cars and since joining the forum have read up on and enquired about Polished Bliss' products more specifically the detailing option below:-
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=73248

    To buy all I need as a xmas present for my self if I were to go down that route will cost in the region of 200 hard earned pounds!!! Is it worth it? Does anyone on here recommend it the results they speak about sound good however is there that much difference to the AutoGlym finish I currently get?

    All pearls of wisdom kindly received....
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  3. #2
    Staz's Avatar
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    There's a really good detailing forum for this TAC mate:

    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/116-detailing/
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  4. #3
    N8
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    I'm a detailer man, so what exactly are you after my son?

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    Zymol Concours applied by hand (literally) onto a fully prepared car beats anything i've ever tried.. i'm sure there will be plenty of nay sayers and people who think the price is unjustified but it's an expensive and coveted brand for a reason... it makes the car look new again..

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    I've heard lots of good stuff about Zymol, in short though - yes, there is better stuff than AutoGlym, what you choose depends on what effect you want and what colour your car is.

    I love dark colours and use Blackfire Wet Diamond paint sealant (synthetic 'wax') - same idea as the AutoGlym Extra Gloss Protection (Gold Label). I find it gives good results and doesn't break the bank - you can always apply wax over the top!

    That said, you asked about "Car Polish" - I presume you meant wax, as polish is what you'd use before wax/sealant

    It's a huge topic, perhaps best saved for the detailing forum

    edit: Blackfire Example
    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/pho...lackfire_2.JPG
    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/pho.../Blackfire.JPG
    Last edited by 8utters; 7th December 2009 at 23:55.

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    The most fundamental thing to understand about Autoglym versus the other products on that site us that Autoglym offers very little in the way of 'correction'.
    By that, I mean that your Autoglym paintwork products are designed for use with paint which is new or has very minor defects and essentially is just a 'beautifier'.
    To do a proper job on your paint, you'll most likely be needing to 'correct' it first, by properly cleaning the paint surface, polishing out imperfections, then applying a protective layer (sealant). Then you can finish with a wax for further beautification.
    I should finish up here by noting that the Autoglym range is generally excellent, but perfect results come from correcting, not hiding paint problems.
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    I clean the paint with smooth surface clay from meguiars. I imagine other brands offer similar quality products. I use non-abrasive clay.

    I don't have much experience with cleaners (to remove scratches and swirls) but I'd say that you would need to have a polisher to remove those. It's VERY hard to accomplish anything by hand, even if some products insist that it is possible. Audi's clear coats are usually very hard in comparison to other brands, so even more work is necessary.

    Before the finish, I use Autoglym's Super resin polish (red). It contains a lot of 'fillers' and covers swirls that would be visible otherwise (to an extent).For the finish I used Autoglym's gold in the past with good results, but the NXT 2.0 is much better IMO.

    P.S. What you HAVE to buy, is 2 decent mitts, good microfibres, good car shampoo and buckets with grit guards if you can.

  9. #8
    dan1973's Avatar
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    When he say's Autoglym Gold he mean's AG Extra gloss protection.
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  10. #9
    TAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by N8 View Post
    I'm a detailer man, so what exactly are you after my son?
    Just interested in what can give my car the best finish and protection, as I said have always been an Autoglym man however reading the detailing section on here has got the old grey matter going. Wondred if there was a definitive that many use on here that is better than what I presently use? If your a detailer then you I am sure can advise?
    Current - A3 3.2 DSG S-Line
    Gone but not forgotten Honda S2000 GT K&N FPIK (F***ing lairy in the wet but so so much fun...)- Golf MK3 GTI 16v -Mondeo V6 24v

    FOR SALE - Indicator stalk and lower steering wheel cowling
    A3 3DR pair of rear lights in A1 condition from my 06 A3

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    It's all dependent on how much your wanting to spend too, it can get very costly. The finish results are all about the preparation to be honest. Its pointless spending silly money on some polish if the car has not been corrected. I would advice you to get a clay kit and clay the car. Follow the instructions you cant go wrong you will be amazed at the amount of contaminants on your car. Next step would be a correction which is where the cost comes in, if you don't have a machine available to you. Also if your talking polish you need to top that off with some wax for protection. Get your self over to detailing world the mind will boggle then lol. Good luck
    99 Audi a3 tdi sold....
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  12. #11
    TAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan1973 View Post
    It's all dependent on how much your wanting to spend too, it can get very costly. The finish results are all about the preparation to be honest. Its pointless spending silly money on some polish if the car has not been corrected. I would advice you to get a clay kit and clay the car. Follow the instructions you cant go wrong you will be amazed at the amount of contaminants on your car. Next step would be a correction which is where the cost comes in, if you don't have a machine available to you. Also if your talking polish you need to top that off with some wax for protection. Get your self over to detailing world the mind will boggle then lol. Good luck
    Thanks for that Dan,

    What are peoples thoughts on the below?

    Unfortunately Polish and waxes offer minimal long term protection although do provide a good shine if applied correctly.

    Some of latest technology is moving towards sealants such as Glare, these offer similar levels of shine to wax but with longer term protection as they bond to the paint at a molecular level.
    They also inhibit tar build up and do not require claying or additional polishing.

    Is this preferable to claying/polishing/waxing??

    Cheers
    Tom
    Current - A3 3.2 DSG S-Line
    Gone but not forgotten Honda S2000 GT K&N FPIK (F***ing lairy in the wet but so so much fun...)- Golf MK3 GTI 16v -Mondeo V6 24v

    FOR SALE - Indicator stalk and lower steering wheel cowling
    A3 3DR pair of rear lights in A1 condition from my 06 A3

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    N8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAC View Post
    If your a detailer then you I am sure can advise?
    Whats your budget on the products to achieve the finish and protection?

  14. #13
    TAC
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    Quote Originally Posted by N8 View Post
    Whats your budget on the products to achieve the finish and protection?

    N8 basically looking for best value for money in an ideal world would only want to spend arround 150 or below really but being realistic realise that I may have to spend more to get this.

    I don't know the cost of the sealent process mentioned in the above post am enquioring further into this.

    Cheers
    Tom
    Current - A3 3.2 DSG S-Line
    Gone but not forgotten Honda S2000 GT K&N FPIK (F***ing lairy in the wet but so so much fun...)- Golf MK3 GTI 16v -Mondeo V6 24v

    FOR SALE - Indicator stalk and lower steering wheel cowling
    A3 3DR pair of rear lights in A1 condition from my 06 A3

  15. #14
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  16. #15
    dan1973's Avatar
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    Top man N8, you got there before me
    99 Audi a3 tdi sold....
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAC View Post
    Thanks for that Dan,

    What are peoples thoughts on the below?

    Unfortunately Polish and waxes offer minimal long term protection although do provide a good shine if applied correctly.

    Some of latest technology is moving towards sealants such as Glare, these offer similar levels of shine to wax but with longer term protection as they bond to the paint at a molecular level.
    They also inhibit tar build up and do not require claying or additional polishing.

    Is this preferable to claying/polishing/waxing??

    Cheers
    Tom
    Nope, I'm afraid that to get a proper job done, you need to do the groundwork first. Think of it as painting a door in your house, you know that you need to sand it first or you'll get drips and runs. Same deal with a car, you'd spend a lot of money and time on the waxing/sealing stages, with little benefit.

    A properly clean car feels like smooth glass to your hand (use the backs of your fingers). As others have said, you need to prepare it properly first. Here's what I'd do...

    Again, as others have said, get two buckets and some wash mitts (stops it flying off your hand). You can also get a grit guard (stops the mitt touching the acumulated grit at the bottom of the bucket) though I just never ever leave the mitt in the bucket. Fill one bucket with GOOD quality car shampoo and HOT water(don't bother with one that 'waxes' too - waste of time). Fill the other bucket with clean hot water. Rinse the car off with a hose (pressure washer=bad idea) Dip your mitt into the soapy bucket, then wash a half-panel sized area (depends on dirt level) Start from the top of your car and work down, always cleaning the dirtiest bits last (rear end and bottom of doors). After each spell with the soapy mitt, plunge it into the clean bucket, then wring it out (washes off the dirt) then start again with the soapy bucket.

    Once your car body is clean, use an old sponge/mitt to do your wheels. Then dry with a chamois or microfibre waffle towel. Now, feel how the paint feels to your hand, get some clay and lubricant (can use special detailing sprays, but also heard water and babyoil is good) start at the top again and work your way around the car - follow instructions on clay, but for this stage you need to allow at least 1 hour IMHO. If your car has never been clayed and is over a year or so old, you'll notice the difference immediately, it will be smooth as anything!

    Now, wash again, though you should only need one bucket for this stage if you're cutting corners.

    You now have CLEAN paint and will probably be about 3 hours down! This is where you'll be able to tell how bad (or good) the swirl marks are, that you'll inevitably have on your paint (from one-bucket washing, or god forbid, machine/hand carwashes). If you're outside, look just around the sun in the reflection, move back/forth and you'll see them.

    The only proper way to deal with this is to get your car polished, this in itself is a mission, depending on how bad the swirls are. You'll need a proper polishing machine (Porter Cable) and a couple of grades of polish (abrasives). It's a HUGE task especially if you've never done it before, I'd seriously consider getting a pro to do it for you. As has been said before, Audi clear-coat is TOUGH and takes a lot of working.

    Once your car is free of swirls the paint needs sealing to protect it. As in your post, the molecular bonding of these synthetic sealants is a great idea, reducing the need for cleaning with clay and preventing tar/poo/sap and other bad things from building up on your new shiny paint finish. All sealants/waxes can be applied in layers, though bear in mind that waxes, while they look amazing, do have a limited lifespan on your car. They break down in UV light so bear this in mind.

    I'm sure I'll have probably missed something vital, also bear in mind that everyone does things differently, plus, if you want a REALLY good finish, there are no short cuts!

    Hope this is of some help, but be warned, it becomes addictive.

  18. #17
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    as a finishing product, FK1000p is hard to beat. Last far longer than autoglym and well priced.
    As above though, paint needs to be good to start with. "cant polish a turd".
    heres a few of my previous XJR (10yr old car). I used Meguirs quick detail, AG SRP and FK1000p to finish.



  19. #18
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    I had good results with Klasse All in one and High gloss sealant on my old MINI (man it looks like an SUV on the OEM springs, haha)...



    Only problem with white cars is that a day's hard work detailing goes largely unnoticed compared to darker colour cars. But then any swirls and paint imperfections are generally hidden better.
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  20. #19
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    take a look at where the experts hang out and then you'll appreciate what detailing is all about!!! A true bible of information for any level of car enthusiast...some are not even car enthusiasts just OCD on car cleaning... lol

    But seriously anything you need to know will be on or can be asked on here

    http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/
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    If you're not wanting to spend a fortune and aren't an expert at detailing like Nate is (and I'm not!) then I'd highly recommend a the combination I use... I don't have pics yet but I'm chuffed with the finish on my car after doing this:

    Washed with Bilt Hamber car shampoo (not wash and wax products) and wool mit from Polished Bliss.
    Clayed car with Bilt Hamber clay (http://www.bilthamber.com/)
    Washed car off again
    Polished car with Auto Glym super resin polish (which you already have by the sounds) using the pads and cloths recommended in the Polished Bliss thread you've referenced above.
    Waxed car with Bilthamber Autobalm, again using the pads and cloths I purchased from Polished Bliss.

    I spent 15 on the autobalm, 20 on 2 clay bars (no need for lubricants, just water), 8 on auto-wash shampoo and probably 30-35 on wool mit, cloths and pads from Polished Bliss.

    The autobalm is not the easiest product to use but the results are great and it's easier as you add layers.

    Like you, i already had a load of Autoglym products and having used them fairly regularly my paintwork wasn't too bad anyway. The claying has definitely helped give that glass feel though.

    The method guides on the Polished Bliss website are also really useful.
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    ...just a note on clay/lubricants, I have tried with just water (much cheaper than detailing sprays!) but found it not slippery enough to prevent the clay from sticking to the paint in places. The addition of a bit of baby oil worked a treat, though keep shaking the bottle to stop it separating.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 8utters View Post
    ...just a note on clay/lubricants, I have tried with just water (much cheaper than detailing sprays!) but found it not slippery enough to prevent the clay from sticking to the paint in places. The addition of a bit of baby oil worked a treat, though keep shaking the bottle to stop it separating.
    indeed, I tend to use a small amount of car shampoo with water and this does the job just as good too!!
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  24. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8utters View Post
    ...just a note on clay/lubricants, I have tried with just water (much cheaper than detailing sprays!) but found it not slippery enough to prevent the clay from sticking to the paint in places. The addition of a bit of baby oil worked a treat, though keep shaking the bottle to stop it separating.
    I've used water diluted with dish washing detergent in the past as well. Supposedly dish washing detergent is good for removing the old wax anyway, so it seemed like a good theory to me.
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  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAC View Post
    Just interested in what can give my car the best finish and protection, as I said have always been an Autoglym man however reading the detailing section on here has got the old grey matter going. Wondred if there was a definitive that many use on here that is better than what I presently use? If your a detailer then you I am sure can advise?
    TAC...Ultimately the Esso car wash is best. go for a gold tiger wash and it waxes as wel...the individual rubber strip give your car a good thrashing for getting dirty in the first place
    I think I must live in a different place to the rest of you ! Being UK based it has rained buckets for the last 2 months and i have to run my tyres at 50 psi just so the car floats.... cleaning is a distant memory

 

 

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