remote engine start

mcmasman

mcmasman

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Does anyone know how I can fit a remote engine start system for an A3? I can imagine it would be great for the winter to warm up the car and avoid going out to start the car 10-15 mins before leaving. Many might say this is not needed, but I am still interested.

Any thoughts? :idea:
 
What a great (and pointless) way to kill your engine - starting it from cold and just leaving it ticking over.
 
Plank said:
What a great (and pointless) way to kill your engine - starting it from cold and just leaving it ticking over.
Click to expand...
How do you propose to start an engine from cold without an engine warmer? Atleast by starting it 10-15 mins before you drive it the engine can warm up quicker.

As I said, I anticipated some people might not support this idea. Either way, I'm interested to hear what people have to say, you included Plank. Although... I don't expect much from you, evidenced from your response style from other threads.

Maybe you can suggest what is a better way, rather than being negative.:keule:
 
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Starting a car from cold and idling it for longer than required is not good for the engine.

Oil pressure at idle is at its lowest level therefore lubrication will be at its minimum.

Oil temperature will also struggle to increase with low engine speed and load therefore the oil protection properties will be at a minimum.

Camshaft wear will be also at its maximum as the followers will be in full contact with the cam lobes on the whole cam duration and this along with cold oil and low pressure isn't good.
 
RobinA3 said:
Starting a car from cold and idling it for longer than required is not good for the engine...
Click to expand...
Robin, in your opinion, what is "longer than reuired"? 10 - 15 mins too much? Do you just start the car and drive away in a cold morning? Just take it easy at first til oil temperature raises half way?
 
I start the car up in the morning, wait around 30secs for the Cat's to warm up to temp and the idle speed drops a bitand then drive off.

The engine oil takes around 15-20mins to warm up to temperature on a normal run therefore you shouldn't really hoooooon it for a while.
 
I do as Robin does, give the car just about 30 seconds or so then gentkly for a few miles til it starts to warm properly. Wouldnt want to let it just sit there idle for 10 mins after starting it...cant be good.
 
This technology is not really all that new. It's been around for years. My dad had one of the first ones installed in his car about 20 years ago when I was 7 or 8. It was an ingenious setup with a built in anti-theft system.

He used to drag me out of bed on cold mornings and send me out to start the car for him. I'd sit there listening to the radio until he came out.
 
Rest assured mcmasman,in the winter I often start my car and leave it idling for ages too.
Sod scraping ice off the windows and sod getting into a freezing cold car.
If,and it's a big if,there is any damage by doing this I've yet to see it.
I certainly don't keep cars long enough to get to a mileage where any highly debatable wear and tear caused by this practice would show up either.
A remote start would be great.
I often wonder what would happen if I started the car with one key,then locked the car with the other.
Anyone tried it ?
Does the car stop ?
Does it go into spasms ?
Does it automatically send an e-mail to Audi and get you shot at dawn ?
 
bowfer said:
I often wonder what would happen if I started the car with one key,then locked the car with the other.
Anyone tried it ?
Does the car stop ?
Does it go into spasms ?
Does it automatically send an e-mail to Audi and get you shot at dawn ?
Click to expand...
I actually do this on cold mornings. If I open the bedroom curtains in the morning and the car looks a bit frozen over, I grab the spare keys, nip out and start the engine, lock it with my regular key and go back inside to open the rest of the curtains and do the usual things one does before leaving the house in the mornings. I then unlock the door, hop in and drive off. Saves messing about with jugs of water and stuff. The problem I have with using the jugs of water is that the water runs down the bodywork and if the car is a bit dusty you end up with streak marks.

I have the settings for my spare key set to have the aircon on high with the fan at max, so all I have to do is put the key in and press the buttons for front and rear screen. If it is not frozen over I just use the regular key the temperature is at the normal level.
 
Cool,so I could start the car then lock it and go about my business inside ?
I've often wondered,but been scared to try it coz I thought there would be alarm/immobiliser issues.
 
mcmasman said:
How do you propose to start an engine from cold without an engine warmer? Atleast by starting it 10-15 mins before you drive it the engine can warm up quicker.

As I said, I anticipated some people might not support this idea. Either way, I'm interested to hear what people have to say, you included Plank. Although... I don't expect much from you, evidenced from your response style from other threads.

Maybe you can suggest what is a better way, rather than being negative.:keule:
Click to expand...

Suggest you read that little book that sits in your glovebox, as it specifically says that leaving the engine to idle from cold is bad as it takes the engine longer to warm up and causes increased wear.

:rtfm:
 
audi upgrades
Plank said:
Suggest you read that little book that sits in your glovebox, as it specifically says that leaving the engine to idle from cold is bad as it takes the engine longer to warm up and causes increased wear.

:rtfm:
Click to expand...

So what does the all-knowing manual suggest for winter mornings then ?
Driving off with misted windscreens and frostbite from scraping off the ice outside ?
Or,if idling is the problem,how about revving the bejesus out of it ?
Or do they seriously expect drivers to sit in their car,varying engine revs for as long as it takes for the car to defrost ?
Do they know how long one of their ****** diesels takes to warm up ?????
I'm not sitting in the car for 20 ****** minutes.

Sod the poxy manual,I'm going to do what I have done for 23 years of driving.
I would suggest driving off with nice clear windows,inside and out,is better than any alleged,and highly dubious,risk of increased engine wear.

At what point does this increased engine wear kick in then,given that Audi engines are supposed to be good for very high mileage ?
Or are we supposed to believe all high-mileage Audis have been started by the book ?

Honestly,what a load of old wives' tales bullcrap.
 
I think I've probably got the best option and it works for all types and makes of car - it's called a garage.

Audi do offer an Auxillary Heating system that works in conjunction with the air conditioning system, but does not rely on heat from the engine. Instead the system burns fuel. It can be operated by remote control and can be programmed to run for 15 to 60 minutes and it's main function is to warm up the interior of the vehicle and to help defrost the windows in cold weather.

I know it's available in some markets but I never seen it on any price lists for the UK so whether it can be specified I don't know. Obviously it's at factory fitted option only.
 
h5djr said:
I think I've probably got the best option and it works for all types and makes of car - it's called a garage.
Click to expand...

I've got two of them,never use either of them.
Leaving the car idling on the drive for 20 minutes is preferable to the hassle of squeezing yourself in an out of it in the garage.
It makes that game twister look easy.
 
My Navara has a fast idle switch which is useful for cold mornings (the Audi gets the garage!) and so did its predecessor - a Hilux. Although we've had some diesel cars, I can't remember them having one so presumably it's just for us soft pickup people!:think: :yes:
 
h5djr - what a completely useless thing to say - "heres a solution get the auxiliary heating option - oh but you can't get in this country" jeeeez

Yes the manual does say you should start the car and rive away immediately (not even wait 30 seconds as this has significance whatsoever) but who does exactly what it says in the manual??? Manual says don't go in the red zone with the revs - but we all know theres a rev limiter there anyway so your not gonna do any harm by bouncing it off the limiter when your givin it beans - certainly doesn't stop me.

Its like anything like this - manufacturers have to err on the side of caution in manuals just to cover their backs - in reality bending these rules doesn't generally have any major consequences and its like bowfer says - any extra wear and tear caused isn't going to show up until what?? 150k?? 25k earlier than it would have otherwise done - i couldn't possibly keep a car for 150k miles so it wont be my car then anyway!
 
My original post is concering especially for the winter, when my car is completely frozen. There is no way I can start the car for 30 sec and drive off. It takes at least 5 mins for the front window to clear up with the fan on full with the highest setting.

I don't think I would increase the time the car on idle if I manage to fit the remote engine start on the car, either way the car will be turn on to warm up the interior, it's a matter of if I can turn it on some minutes before I walk out of my house, or sitting in the car waiting for it to clear up the window.
 
bowfer said:
Sod scraping ice off the windows and sod getting into a freezing cold car.
Click to expand...

I take it you've got a petrol car. A diesel car will never ever warm up without being driven. Takes a little while for petrol too doesn't it?
 
mcmasman said:
My original post is concering especially for the winter, when my car is completely frozen. There is no way I can start the car for 30 sec and drive off. It takes at least 5 mins for the front window to clear up with the fan on full with the highest setting.
Click to expand...

I was wondering myself how the "drive off after 30seconds" brigade managed that in sub zero weather, when like yourself I have to have the car running on the drive stationary for at least 5 minutes to clear the screens properly so its safe to drive.

A remote engine starter in these circumstances sounds ideal!! :icon_thumright:

Sat1983 ... my A3 diesel kicks out heat from the heaters almosts straight away.
 
audi upgrades
coupe-se said:
I was wondering myself how the "drive off after 30seconds" brigade managed that in sub zero weather, when like yourself I have to have the car running on the drive stationary for at least 5 minutes to clear the screens properly so its safe to drive.
quote]

Can of de-icer or scraper for the outside and a cloth for the inside of the window......not too hi-tech or anything though most would have thought of that one...? You could manage that with the engine running or not - doesnt take too long.

Are those in the "drive off brigade" the only people with access to a halfords/tesco to buy these new fandagled, unheard of wonder products.....??

I dont think anybody would say that you sit in the car and time 30 seconds everytime.......that would be ridiculous.....and very anal....
but i would say that i wouldnt want to leave it running for too long while stationary...just sat there.....while you go back inside to eat your porridge and find your big wooly jumper......

Ok im sure in the harshness of the weather in norway (the location for the original post) There has got to be a compromise of what can be done to try and get out of your street at least before being frozen to death....but over here....in the UK...come on its not that bad. (except for scotland maybe....cant argue with that one either)
Click to expand...
 
bowfer said:
Cool,so I could start the car then lock it and go about my business inside ?
I've often wondered,but been scared to try it coz I thought there would be alarm/immobiliser issues.
Click to expand...

I can embrassingly confirm that you can lock the car with the engine running and keys in the ignition as i somehow managed to lock myself out of my car while putting air into the tyres just a few nights ago.

Think i left the dsg box in neutral, and the car auto locked itself when i got out.....not my finest hour.......left my mobile in the car too......(********)
friendly passer by let me use his car phone to call sister for help.
Never going to let me live that one down......

(ive had it 2-3 months....so i dont know all the "features" yet ... so what ....)
 
normski said:
Utter ********...:asskicking:
Click to expand...

Again you know what I mean, the VR6 I owned used to warm up immediately, the needle hitting 90c in a few minutes. Takes a lot longer in a diesel.:icon_thumright:
 
my A3 diesel kicks out heat from the heaters almosts straight away.
Click to expand...

Audi diesels are fitted with an electrically powered auxillary heating element to provide heat to the car heater system until the main engine temperature is high enough.

The heater in my A3 starts giving out heat within a few hundred yards of driving away.
 
sat1983 said:
I take it you've got a petrol car. A diesel car will never ever warm up without being driven. Takes a little while for petrol too doesn't it?
Click to expand...

No,diesel car.
It takes around 10-20 minutes for ice/snow to defrost off my car as it sits and rattles on the drive.
On my 3.5 mile commute,the temperature gauge barely moves.
In the winter months,my car can go for days without ever reaching full operating temperature.
I'm sure the manual would,if it could,tut loudly at such allegedly engine-shredding behaviour,but what am I supposed to do ?
Go for a longer drive,just to get the car up to temperature ?
Hardly.
I'm lucky if I stop seeing my own breath inside the car on my winter commute.
I can only assume the 'electric auxiliary heater' is as feeble as the alarm LED.
 
bowfer said:
Cool,so I could start the car then lock it and go about my business inside ?
I've often wondered,but been scared to try it coz I thought there would be alarm/immobiliser issues.
Click to expand...
I think having the key in the ignition prevents the alarm/immobiliser from activating. There seems to be some logic somewhere which does this. Similarly, the buttons on the key don't work when the car is running - not sure if this is a safety feature or something. You have to put the second key into the door to lock\unlock it.
 
h5djr said:
Audi diesels are fitted with an electrically powered auxillary heating element to provide heat to the car heater system until the main engine temperature is high enough.

The heater in my A3 starts giving out heat within a few hundred yards of driving away.
Click to expand...

That Auxillary Heating system option, with remote control, cost £1,200 in Norway. :bye: And from one of the post above, that option is not available in the UK?
 
That Auxillary Heating system option, with remote control, cost £1,200 in Norway. And from one of the post above, that option is not available in the UK?
Click to expand...

We are not talking abount the same thing. It gets confusing because that are both called similar names. I know the is an remote control Auxillary Heating system that is available as an option in some colder markets that actually burns fuel to warm up the interior and help defrost the windows. This is remotely controlled and can be set to provide between 15 and 60 minutes of heating without the engine being turned on.

The is also an electrically powered auxillary air heater in the normal heating circuit that sits in front of the normal heat exchanger and provides some additional heat when the engine is started until the engine water temperature reaches normal. As far as I know this is only fitted to diesel engines. It is this that provides some heat out of the heater as soon as I drive away.
 
With regard to the climate control in cold weather...
Please bear with me here,as I've always been a bit confused by the way it works on my A4 and A3.
Basically,if it's freezing outside and you have the temperature set at say 22 degrees,it will take an age to get the inside of the car warm.
You can,of course,turn the climate up to 'max',which heats the car up quickly.

However,here is my question.

Shouldn't the climate control belt out heat until it reaches the required temperature quickly,at which point it should shut off ?
It's always confused me that,the way it seems to blow out heat slowly when there is evidently more heat and fan available.
I often find myself whacking it up to max,then turning it back to 22C when the car is warm.
Pain in the ***,the climate should do it automatically,surely ?

It works when things are turned around.
I.E,if the interior is roasting,the climate will belt out cold air until it's cold,at which point the fan will back off.
How come it works one way and not the other ?
 
Thanks for the clear explanation, Dave. :icon_thumright:
 
bowfer said:
So what does the all-knowing manual suggest for winter mornings then ?
Driving off with misted windscreens and frostbite from scraping off the ice outside ?
Or,if idling is the problem,how about revving the bejesus out of it ?
Or do they seriously expect drivers to sit in their car,varying engine revs for as long as it takes for the car to defrost ?
Do they know how long one of their ****** diesels takes to warm up ?????
I'm not sitting in the car for 20 ****** minutes.

Sod the poxy manual,I'm going to do what I have done for 23 years of driving.
I would suggest driving off with nice clear windows,inside and out,is better than any alleged,and highly dubious,risk of increased engine wear.

At what point does this increased engine wear kick in then,given that Audi engines are supposed to be good for very high mileage ?
Or are we supposed to believe all high-mileage Audis have been started by the book ?

Honestly,what a load of old wives' tales bullcrap.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you're more knowledgable about it than the multi-million dollar corporation that employs hundreds of highly qualified designers to develop and manufacture the car.

But of course Audi put "old wives tales bullcrap" in their manuals, don't they....! :blahblah1:
 
This could be fun...I do hope Bowfer "my opinion is law" and Plank "why don't I think before I post?" both rise to the occasion and have a good pop at each other...:aggressive:
 
bowfer said:
How come it works one way and not the other ?
Click to expand...
Never thought about it this way but it seems trivial.

Maybe it got to do with how the cold and hot air are generated. Isn't the cold air generated by the "refridgerating module" with the "air con gas"(oh dear, the quality of this post is going straight down:sorry:), which is independent of engine temperture and the hot air is pull from the engine?

Don't know the exact science but maybe it got to do with that cold air can be generated more quickly than hot air. And also when people set the temperture down they seek quicker relief, but when they set temperture up they don't necessary want super hot air blowing at their face until it reach set temp? :think:
 
bowfer said:
However,here is my question.

Shouldn't the climate control belt out heat until it reaches the required temperature quickly,at which point it should shut off ?
It's always confused me that,the way it seems to blow out heat slowly when there is evidently more heat and fan available.
I often find myself whacking it up to max,then turning it back to 22C when the car is warm.
Pain in the ***,the climate should do it automatically,surely ?
Click to expand...

It does do that...... but it waits until the air is warmed a bit by the engine first. If it just blew air straight in as soon as you started the engine it would blow in cold air. If you start your engine and leave the setting on 22c you will notice that initially it blows at a very low speed and then as the engine warms up the fan speed will increase until it's blowing at full whack..... then will cut back again as required temperature is reached.

'In theory' your way of doing things shouldn't actually get you to your required temperature any quicker but these systems are never 100% perfect
 
Redwing289 said:
If you start your engine and leave the setting on 22c you will notice that initially it blows at a very low speed and then as the engine warms up the fan speed will increase until it's blowing at full whack..... then will cut back again as required temperature is reached.
Click to expand...

That's where the problem with mine lies then.
My fan never gets above three bars on auto,even if the engine is warm.
So it only ever 'trickles' out heat.
I have to manually boost the fan.
 
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