Drivers Window still wont work

just017

just017

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A month or so ago, drivers window stopped working, got a new motor/control module and fitted it today, and the thing still wont work, what else could be wrong?

Can anyone post a pic of the wiring diagram that relates to the window/switch etc

Many thanks
 
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So does everything else work on the door as in windows, locking, mirror electrics etc?

When you scan the car what does it show for 42?

Have you checked the glass is able to move freely in the runners as such, maybe the glass has got stuck.

BTW its FECKING :)
 
Yeah everything else works,all the lights on the door card work,passenger window opens via the drivers window switch, electric mirrors work. I'm guessing if all that works then it rules out a fuse issue right? It's not the glass bit that's stuck because if I connect the motor up but don't put the cog into the window mechanism it still won't work. Just to clarify, is there only one fuse involved from the battery to the window? Or is there more than one I should be checking, an if so where?

Thanks for the reply dude.

P.S did you get the RNS e file?
 
have you tried to use the key to open the Windows ? Hold it in the unlock position, if the passenger Window opens but not the drivers it is a power / wiring / motor or control unit fault. If they both open then it is the switch on the drivers door.

You should really invest in VCDS as it would help no end in a situation like this as you can monitor the door switch in the module.

Paul
 
Yup tried the key or the windows and neither work with the key. Passenger works from Both sides. I have vag com, it doesn't give much away on this.il post up the code when I get in dude
 
Tuesday,13,July,2010,21:06:04:59303
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver
Control Module Part Number: 8P0 959 801 F
Component and/or Version: Tuersteuerger. H10 0030
Software Coding: 0000048
Work Shop Code: WSC 00652
1 Fault Found:
00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

Is the code i get, saying check wiring. This code relates to the auto and pinch funtions not working, which i guess in vag coms mind is true, because the whole window isnt working, but my problem is before this as the motor wont even spin
 
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You should be able to check the switch status in VCDS blocks.

I've not looked at mine recently, but I'm pretty sure that if you go into the drivers door module measuring blocks - you should be able to confirm that the switch is working OK.

You also need to re-code your comfort module then so that you can comfort open / close the Windows using the remote or key in the door.

Does look like you have an electrical fault of some kind though.

Also I would suggest that you update your VCDS version as 704.1 is very old now. Current release is 10.6.0 - they have also changed the numbering layout.

PAul
 
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Oright ok i'll see what the measuring blocks show, i think the problem lies between the motor and the battery though,
Do you know how i re-code the comfort module for the key fob etc.

Also, can anyone confirm which fuses are involved in this whole circuit, so i can check them all.

I would upgrade vag com if i had a genuine cable, but i dont think there is many updates now for the 8P 2005 (if any)

Cheers for the reply dude, appreciate it
 
Ha cheers, i'm not trying to say something about myself, just thought a little colour to the now very black forum would be nice.
 
Its all about the colour mate, colour makes you smile & happy, I'm all for it which is why I wont be going for the typical pink room for the little one, will be multi coloured.
 
NHN, not had a chance to check my measuring block tonight, but just had a thought. I originally thought my window problem lied within the control module, after that didn't fix it, i thought it must be a power issue between the battery and the module. However if the passenger window still works from the drivers door, then the power between the battery and drivers door must be fine, right?

Or, does the drivers door window switch use a different power supply to the (still drivers door) passenger window switch?
 
Ok did you change the whole door module or just the motor as these can be seperated.
 
the whole unit, motor and module. Tested the motor on its own on a 12V circuit and it workes fine. Both modules make a 'tick' (i think thats the relay) when the drivers switch it pressed
 
Hi

Newbie digging up a three year old thread!

Just017, Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I'm having the same problem with my 2000 A3 1.8T Quattro.

The driver's window packed up on Monday. I can hear a clicking when I press the switch, but the window doesn't move.

I pulled fuse 38 out (which knocked out all windows) put it back in, no change. I pulled out fuse 31, the one next to it, pushed that back in and the driver's side window sprung back into life. I think this was just coincidence as fuse 31 is some thing to do with the automatic gearbox according to the manual - which is strange as mine is a manual.

It worked fine for two days, but has now packed up again. I tried the same trick of pulling those two fuses out, but no joy.

All other widnows work, I can open and close them on the key and the fob, but the driver's one won't move.

Also the windows in the back don't work when using the switches in the back, but work fine from the driver's control panel.

I realise now that this is the wrong forum for problems with my old stick but the symptoms are the same!
 
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Might be your window motor.
Try and scan with VCDS or ask someone in your area to help you out.
 
Wrong section, this is 8P you have an 8L.
 
Yes, sorry about that. I found the board via google. I didn't realise i was in the wrong place until after i'd posted.

Still, the symptoms are the same, so even if the parts are different I'm pretty sure the fault will be similar and I'd be pointed in the right direction.

Thanks, I'll try and see if I can get down somewhere to have it tested.
 
I no this is old guys but I have same fault on audi s3 2009 3 door, drivers window will not work only click, any help would b nice, thanks
 
Hi. I have the same problem on my Audi A3 2007 sportback. All the switches work on the drivers door to operate windows except the drivers door itself. I have been told its the window motor.

My question, is it true that when changing the window motor it will require coding & that a token would have to be brought from Audi to code the window motor to the car. I find this very hard to believe. A specialist told me this. Can't find any information anywhere. Please help. Thanks.
 
Forget Audi. Fit the motor and if it does need coding there are plenty of helpful people on here that have VCDS and can code it for you
 
I realise this is a very old thread but I'm having the same issue. Did anyone solve this?
I've tried a replacement motor and replacement control unit. I don't think it's the regulator as I've tried the motors when removed from the door and all I get is a slight click in the control unit. Tried obd eleven and all its showing is fault 42 drivers side window motorfault. The switches have power.
 
Again old thread etc but I thought I’d share what I found on mine. I had it where the window packed up and just got a click. Everything else on the door seemed fine, I thought I’d check the harness at the door anyway and found (after getting the rubber boot off) that the earth wire for the door had broken but not snapped in two. I can only think that the remaining strands where enough to carry signals but not run the motor. Quick repair later and everything’s fine. Something my mate told me once “a signal strand of wire will read 12v” dunno if this will help but that’s what I had.

Cheers and stay safe
 
Troubs12 said:
Again old thread etc but I thought I’d share what I found on mine. I had it where the window packed up and just got a click. Everything else on the door seemed fine, I thought I’d check the harness at the door anyway and found (after getting the rubber boot off) that the earth wire for the door had broken but not snapped in two. I can only think that the remaining strands where enough to carry signals but not run the motor. Quick repair later and everything’s fine. Something my mate told me once “a signal strand of wire will read 12v” dunno if this will help but that’s what I had.

Cheers and stay safe
Click to expand...
Your dead right there and we’ll done for spotting the damaged wiring in the door gaiter, it is a common problem for all door components that stop working or intermittent.
 
SootySport said:
Your dead right there and we’ll done for spotting the damaged wiring in the door gaiter, it is a common problem for all door components that stop working or intermittent.
Click to expand...

Cheers man it’s a lot more common than it should be in this day and age while I was in the motor trade I worked for ford, Citroen 10 years at VW and 2 at Audi and right across the board they all suffer from it at some point.


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Troubs12 said:
Again old thread etc but I thought I’d share what I found on mine. I had it where the window packed up and just got a click. Everything else on the door seemed fine, I thought I’d check the harness at the door anyway and found (after getting the rubber boot off) that the earth wire for the door had broken but not snapped in two. I can only think that the remaining strands where enough to carry signals but not run the motor. Quick repair later and everything’s fine. Something my mate told me once “a signal strand of wire will read 12v” dunno if this will help but that’s what I had.

Cheers and stay safe
Click to expand...
Zombie thread, but had this problem for way too long, and just wanted to add in that this was where my issues lied. After having already replaced literally everything but the door and finding the issue to persist, I circled back to inspecting the wiring. Sure enough, once I inspected the wiring leading into the door, there was the source of the problem.View attachment 258257
Note the completely severed red wire (chance it was barely hanging on before I pulled this apart), the brown wire was damaged, and a few others had slight damage. Reconnected everything again, and it's all sorted. Nice to be able to open the window again. Before this repair, everything was working from the drivers door except the drivers window. When hitting the button, I would hear a click, from the motor, but the window wouldn't move. Replaced the switch, the motor, then the window regulator along the way, but nothing changed - was the wiring the whole time, which I had foolishly ruled out early since everything else worked and I at least heard a click from the motor when attempting to engage it.
 
Hi. Same exact symptoms. How do you get that rubber wiring boot in the door off from either end? I know that the rubber boot has plastic connectors at either end. From the door, I removed the speaker and could see a clip on the visible side but I can’t reach the other clip. And I can’t figure out how to remove the rubber from the frame side without gouging the rubber. Thanks!
 
It has expanding plastic clips that you have to depress to release the plastic housing, pull it through to the open air then fold it over & pull it back through the door to get full access to the whole loom.
 
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Nanashi said:
Zombie thread, but had this problem for way too long, and just wanted to add in that this was where my issues lied. After having already replaced literally everything but the door and finding the issue to persist, I circled back to inspecting the wiring. Sure enough, once I inspected the wiring leading into the door, there was the source of the problem.View attachment 258257
Note the completely severed red wire (chance it was barely hanging on before I pulled this apart), the brown wire was damaged, and a few others had slight damage. Reconnected everything again, and it's all sorted. Nice to be able to open the window again. Before this repair, everything was working from the drivers door except the drivers window. When hitting the button, I would hear a click, from the motor, but the window wouldn't move. Replaced the switch, the motor, then the window regulator along the way, but nothing changed - was the wiring the whole time, which I had foolishly ruled out early since everything else worked and I at least heard a click from the motor when attempting to engage it.
Click to expand...
Looks like I'm joining the club. I'm having the same issue that others have had over the years it seems. My Drivers side window won't go down, when pressing the button I could hear a single click sound and nothing else, no movement, etc. I attempted to pull off the rubber grommet where the wiring harness plugs into the car, but I had difficulty getting the back of it off. I got the 2 front clips out, but I couldn’t get the back clips out, I’m guessing there will be 2 more clips at the back too? I could stretch the front out a bit to have a peek inside and from what I could see, the wires looked okay. I took the door card off, just to check the part number of the window motor which is 8P0959801K. I saw that sometimes there is a issue with the Door Switch, where the window buttons are, how would I be able to tell if there is an issue with those?

I seen people say to check the fuses, but is it a case of if the passenger side window is working it won’t be the fuse as that one should not work too, if it was the fuse?

Related codes. Yep I have an issue with the central locking where I have to put my key into the car to unlock the drivers door and open the passenger door from the inside, but I can leave that to another thread to keep this more on topic of the original post, but maybe these issues together point towards it being more an issue of the wiring.

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN3.lbl

Part No SW: 8P0 959 801 K HW: 8P0 959 801 K

Component: Tuer-SG H03 0060

Coding: 0000564

Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000



3 Faults Found:

00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)

012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

01552 - Motor for Central Locking; Drivers Door (V56); Lock

012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)

008 - Implausible Signal





Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels:. 1K0-959-702-MIN3.clb

Part No SW: 8P0 959 802 K HW: 8P0 959 802 K

Component: Tuer-SG H03 0060

Coding: 0000564

Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000

VCID: 4487A09707FDF8B1A7-8010



4 Faults Found:

01553 - Motor for Central Locking; Passenger Door (V57); Lock

012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)

008 - Implausible Signal

00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)

012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)

004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
 
1000011757
 
Troubs12 said:
Hi just seen this you’re going to have to look roughly in the middle of that rubber boot where the bend point is. The part of the wiring in the picture doesn’t move so won’t flex and break.


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Click to expand...
I managed to get the rubber grommet/boot off. At least 3 wires are broken. Not sure if I might have broke one wire further as the key fob is not locking my door afterwards now. I can manually lock the door though.

Does this mean I need a wiring loom or repair kit? Anybody know the part numbers for a replacement or have a link to a repair kit? The broken wires that I could see were the brown one, red and green one, black one, and then a couple of others had little breaks in them.

I called Audi to ask for the drivers side door loom, they said that there's two options it could be after first saying that they didn't make them anymore, this was after he said he will check if there were repair wires, so maybe he was talking about the repair wires. The chap wouldn't give out the part numbers for the 2 options that he mentioned.

First option. £197. Connects to the window regulator, switches and mirror. (he said attaches to the door card)

Second option. £197. Attaches to window motor and goes to the car body (mentioned that it has a rubber grommet, that I mentioned when trying to describe where it was, what it looked like)
 

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dk1234 said:
I managed to get the rubber grommet/boot off. At least 3 wires are broken. Not sure if I might have broke one wire further as the key fob is not locking my door afterwards now. I can manually lock the door though.

Does this mean I need a wiring loom or repair kit? Anybody know the part numbers for a replacement or have a link to a repair kit? The broken wires that I could see were the brown one, red and green one, black one, and then a couple of others had little breaks in them.

I called Audi to ask for the drivers side door loom, they said that there's two options it could be after first saying that they didn't make them anymore, this was after he said he will check if there were repair wires, so maybe he was talking about the repair wires. The chap wouldn't give out the part numbers for the 2 options that he mentioned.

First option. £197. Connects to the window regulator, switches and mirror. (he said attaches to the door card)

Second option. £197. Attaches to window motor and goes to the car body (mentioned that it has a rubber grommet, that I mentioned when trying to describe where it was, what it looked like)
Click to expand...

Glad you found the problem if you pop the door trim off and check on the loom for the part number you can check eBay for a replacement would be my advice.


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Troubs12 said:
Glad you found the problem if you pop the door trim off and check on the loom for the part number you can check eBay for a replacement would be my advice.


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Click to expand...
I've just received a replacement wiring loom. Some of the while clips are damaged, do you think it's worth cutting the white clips of the old one when removed and putting them on the new one? What are they attached to the wire with? Is it algamating tape?
 
I notice a small nick in one of the small wires, Im thinking I should put algamating tape on that wire. Also another little nick, which I would guess is showing a little insulation?

1000012161
 
dk1234 said:
I notice a small nick in one of the small wires, Im thinking I should put algamating tape on that wire. Also another little nick, which I would guess is showing a little insulation?

View attachment 274013
Click to expand...

It’s not ideal but a small bit of insulation tape should sort it out.


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Cheers for the advice. I managed to change it and get it back in. But may have to mess with it again tomorrow as it was getting too dark. The only issue, I had is the little black clip that goes into the door near the speakers was facing the wrong way, so I couldn't clip it in and the metal clip that slides onto the inside of the door below that area wouldn't clip on.

After I threaded the cable through the door, I noticed the main plug was upside down, but I could turn it to get it upright. I hope I don't have to take the whole thing out again. I don't want to risk damaging any of the wires on the connector, as when I took the old one off, I pulled it by the wires as it was getting replaced.
 
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