You'll need a 30mm socket for the hub nut which will need to be replaced. If buying a kit you'll get one in the pack. Loosen the hub nut a couple of flats with the car on the ground as it's very tight. Then jack the car up. Don't loosen it off more than 90° with the wheel on the ground or you could damage the wheel bearings. As mentioned, either undo the three small ball joint nuts or the single nut to the hub. Then remove the steering arm connection. You should have enough space to pull the suspension strut outwards whilst turning it and then push the driveshaft out. Replacing the boot is pretty straight forward. There is a special tool to undo and re-use the clips, but it's do-able without.
The CV joint is a push fit. To remove it, just hit it with a soft faced mallet on it's inner edge. Should pop off. A few sharp blows to the end of the splines will have it refitted.
Don't allow the cars weight to rest on the wheel with the driveshaft removed. It will damage the bearings. Not that you would, but just so you know.
Hub nut tightening sequence:
‒ Replace twelve-point nut.
‒ Remove any paint remnants and/or corrosion at thread and splines of outer joint.
‒ Before fitting drive shaft, lubricate the following locations with polycarbamide grease, part no. G 052 142 A2: (or use CV grease)
‒ Splines of outer joint
‒ Thread of outer joint
‒ Contact surface of twelve-point nut
‒ Insert outer joint as far as possible into wheel hub splines.
‒ Pull outer joint with twelve-point nut into wheel hub until it makes contact with wheel bearing.
‒ Lower vehicle, making sure that wheels do not as yet come into contact with ground.
Note:
Wheels must not be in contact with ground when tightening drive shaft as otherwise wheel bearing could be damaged.
‒ Have second mechanic press brake.
‒ Tighten twelve-point nut to 190 Nm.
‒ Set vehicle down on its wheels.
‒ Give twelve-point nut further 90° turn
Torque wrench settings:
Steering joint to hub - 45Nm
Balljoint to hub - 45Nm
Balljoint to wishbone nuts - 75Nm
