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Thread: Will these wheels fit?

  1. #41
    ShaunS3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 16Klappe View Post
    Forget it and buy a set of 8's in a decent offset I say.

    You'll be spending as much on adapters/spacers as you will on another set of wheels.
    I wouldn't have thought so based on that the wheels are worth over a £1000 if bought new.

    The h&r spacers are not far over 100 and go up to 30mm. I know a local engineering firm that can make them up cheaper anyhow.

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt View Post
    Due to the fact that they're more narrow than your current wheels, I think 25mm would be a better bet. That's high
    What issues can it cause if not right?

    Any long term adverse effects from prolonged use of spacers etc?

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunS3 View Post
    The h&r spacers are not far over 100 and go up to 30mm. I know a local engineering firm that can make them up cheaper anyhow.
    Per set of 2....and you will need 2 sets.

    If you know an engineer that can make them cheaper then you may as well look into FK as well. The main thing with H&R spacers are the inserts in the adapters to screw the nut into - so that there not just 1 piece.
    2000 S3 APY

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  5. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunS3 View Post
    Can you give me the dimensions of yours buddy?
    Mine were off an 8P S3. IIRC they were ET54, 18", 112x5 (57.1 bore).

    I was given a quote for the H&R PCD adapters I needed by a garage, I then went and bought the adapters from a cheaper place. I was a uber-muppet and didn't check the calculation so my wheels sit in from the arches a bit too much to be aesthetically pleasing.

    So whilst my wheels look awesome, the stance is a bit lame, BUT it's saved me kerbing them a couple of times now ... so I feel kinda glad.

    When I've saved up some pennies I MIGHT go buy a whole new set of H&R adapters to space them out nicely - but for the moment I'm happy.

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  6. #45
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    I used to run 25mm adapters at the front and 40mm on the rear, didn't have any adverse effects as i was only running lowering springs at the time
    Sam_ likes this.
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  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    Per set of 2....and you will need 2 sets.

    If you know an engineer that can make them cheaper then you may as well look into FK as well. The main thing with H&R spacers are the inserts in the adapters to screw the nut into - so that there not just 1 piece.
    Yup two sets needed, I got H&R spacers, the cheapest I found for two pairs came in at ~£230 delivered. Mine were direct shipped from a EuroCarParts warehouse - and it looks like they're the UK distributor for H&R so maybe a better price can be found direct from ECP.

    The general wisdom is H&R are bullet proof due to the inserts and they are a very good grade of alloy. FK and other straight adapters with no inserts could strip threads/fail. I spent the extra on H&R for peace of mind.
    kwistof likes this.

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by vfr800 View Post
    Yup two sets needed, I got H&R spacers, the cheapest I found for two pairs came in at ~£230 delivered. Mine were direct shipped from a EuroCarParts warehouse - and it looks like they're the UK distributor for H&R so maybe a better price can be found direct from ECP.
    Totally agree with you.... I was expecting them to be lighter though to be honest- but apparently they are pretty light when compared to FK and other brands.

    As I mentioned earlier, I got mine from DPM....as I was ordering coilovers and other bits and bobs I got a very nice price for it all in that no one else could match at the time

    If/when I have to buy adapters for any car in the future I'll be sticking with H&R.
    I looked at it as -
    If I'm going to be spending the dosh on original BBS rims with high performance tyres, then I may as well go the whole hog and get the best quality adapters on the market to finish the set up nicely
    2000 S3 APY

    18" BBS RSII with Michelin PS3s, 20mm H&R adapters, Relentless 3" DP and Sports cat, B5 V1 induction kit, cone filter+heat shield, Forge 007P, Awesome GTI SMF, AP coilovers, Facelift rear lights, Full Powerflex poly bush kit, R32 Rear ARB, SAI delete, N249 by-pass, Upgraded Engine mounts with Polytek, Stage 1 CC at Badger 5.

  9. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    If/when I have to buy adapters for any car in the future I'll be sticking with H&R.
    I looked at it as -
    If I'm going to be spending the dosh on original BBS rims with high performance tyres, then I may as well go the whole hog and get the best quality adapters on the market to finish the set up nicely
    Hehe I even apply collinite wax to my H&R adapters when I clean my wheels ... can anyone say ... aaaaaannnnnaaaaallllllllllll!

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  10. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    Sound advice this.

    I only run 5 x 112 fitment with adapters because of how cheap I picked by BBS rims up for in the first place.

    By the time you factor in set of decent adapters and bolts it can/will get very costly.

    Btw just a note; if you do go for the H&R adapters then your OEM wheel brace tool in the spare wheel well will be useless if you get a flat tyre, as it's too bloody fat to get between the edge of the hole and the nut
    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    I'm in agreement with this really. Can you not buy these rims in the correct offset and stud pattern for the 8L? I can understand if the rims are rare or unique of course. But to add all that extra unstrung weight, just to fit a set of rims is stupid in my opinion.
    I believe the BBS speedlines are very rare/unique and when they do come up for sale, people want silly money for them.

    I am in the same boat as Kwistof - i've managed to pick up a set of 5 genuine BBS speedlines for a fraction of what they would normally be, hence i could justify spending a little to get them fitted correctly using adapters etc?

    I think they do fit them to other models but not sure how the offsets etc would change. Again, it would be a case of hunting them down for a long time.

    Can you elaborate on ''extra unstrung weight'' This is the point i was trying to get across. What effects will it have on the car if the wheels are fitted with offset adapters etc.

    Could the wheel brace tool issue be sorted by swapping it with one from an 8P chassis?

  11. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    Sound advice this.

    I only run 5 x 112 fitment with adapters because of how cheap I picked by BBS rims up for in the first place.

    By the time you factor in set of decent adapters and bolts it can/will get very costly.

    Btw just a note; if you do go for the H&R adapters then your OEM wheel brace tool in the spare wheel well will be useless if you get a flat tyre, as it's too bloody fat to get between the edge of the hole and the nut
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandip View Post
    I used to run 25mm adapters at the front and 40mm on the rear, didn't have any adverse effects as i was only running lowering springs at the time
    Thanks Sandip.

    Were these 18's at the time as iirc, you are running on 19's now?

  12. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunS3 View Post

    I am in the same boat as Kwistof - i've managed to pick up a set of 5 genuine BBS speedlines for a fraction of what they would normally be, hence i could justify spending a little to get them fitted correctly using adapters etc?

    I think they do fit them to other models but not sure how the offsets etc would change. Again, it would be a case of hunting them down for a long time.

    Can you elaborate on ''extra unstrung weight'' This is the point i was trying to get across. What effects will it have on the car if the wheels are fitted with offset adapters etc.

    Could the wheel brace tool issue be sorted by swapping it with one from an 8P chassis?
    Ooooo 5 as well- fancy bugger lol

    The extra unstrung weight I believe jojo is referring to is the weight the adapters will be.

    E.g if you can get the same alloys in 5 x 100 and the correct offset - then what's the point in fitting 5 x 112s. Even if you have to pay a few hundred quid more for the correct fitment- then you will save over £200 and also keep your car as light as possible.

    I am pretty certain the BBS wheels you have are only available in 5 x 112 size as I was looking at those myself when I was wheel shopping. I have seen a few sets floating about in my time though.

    The brace tool issue has nothing to do with the ET or PCD size etc...it's quiet literally the space between the nut and the outer ring is very small- and the tool they give you as OEM is to fat to fit between the small gap in the H&R adapters. It has nothing to do with the offset and is no biggy really- was just a hint/tip for the future if you do go for the H&R adapters. So not sure if the 8P one would be any better.....I have at least 3 wheels braces in my garage and they were all to heavy duty/fat ended to use
    2000 S3 APY

    18" BBS RSII with Michelin PS3s, 20mm H&R adapters, Relentless 3" DP and Sports cat, B5 V1 induction kit, cone filter+heat shield, Forge 007P, Awesome GTI SMF, AP coilovers, Facelift rear lights, Full Powerflex poly bush kit, R32 Rear ARB, SAI delete, N249 by-pass, Upgraded Engine mounts with Polytek, Stage 1 CC at Badger 5.

  13. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwistof View Post
    The extra unstrung weight I believe jojo is referring to is the weight the adapters will be.
    "unstrung" was probably a typo of "unsprung" i.e. the mass on the car that's not supported or dampened by the suspension ... i.e. unsprung.

    Your hubs, wheels, tyres, brake callipers and discs, wheel bolts etc. and PCD adapters/spacers will all add to the unsprung weight of the car. The OE BBS & Ronal alloys are particularly heavy IMO - adding some adapters to the mix doesn't help keep the unsprung weight down.

    Liam

    S3 AMK 2002. Only 203 BHP left in my poor little engine, currently searching for the 7 missing horses.
    Mods: Powerflex bushes at the front and rear, 710P DV, ambient light module, Badger5 V3 TIP, S2000 Filter.

  14. #53
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    Unsprung weight (or mass) is is the mass of the suspension, wheels and components bolted directly to them. It also includes a portion of the driveshafts.

    High unsprung weight increases the wheel wobble and pulling effects under braking, through cornering and over bumps. Giving more pull and harshness through the wheel.

    High unsprung mass will create vertical forces above the comfort levels expected, giving wheel hop, less traction and compromised steering.

    Lower unsprung mass generally means more performance from the suspension; but too little can give an unrefined drive.

    Depends what you want in a car; but for a road car it doesn't make a monster difference.
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  15. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by vfr800 View Post
    "unstrung" was probably a typo of "unsprung" i.e. the mass on the car that's not supported or dampened by the suspension ... i.e. unsprung.

    Your hubs, wheels, tyres, brake callipers and discs, wheel bolts etc. and PCD adapters/spacers will all add to the unsprung weight of the car. The OE BBS & Ronal alloys are particularly heavy IMO - adding some adapters to the mix doesn't help keep the unsprung weight down.

    Liam
    Indeed

    That will learn me for copy and pasting! lol

    Forgot to mention that I didn't see or feel any noticeable effects when I added the adapters.
    My alloys are ET43 and I purchased 20mm adapters for them to being the ET down.
    2000 S3 APY

    18" BBS RSII with Michelin PS3s, 20mm H&R adapters, Relentless 3" DP and Sports cat, B5 V1 induction kit, cone filter+heat shield, Forge 007P, Awesome GTI SMF, AP coilovers, Facelift rear lights, Full Powerflex poly bush kit, R32 Rear ARB, SAI delete, N249 by-pass, Upgraded Engine mounts with Polytek, Stage 1 CC at Badger 5.

  16. #55
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    So the general consensus is to get H&R wheel adapters/spacers.

    I suppose i wont really know my current offset until my wheels have been taken off, to which then i can put into the calculator and get accurate measurements and work out what size adapters to get.

    So, i presume the goal is to get as close to original offset as possible i.e. within the desired range? How far out is too much?

    The car is mostly used for fast road use so i don't feel it should have a massive effect on the way the car performs or massive increase undue stress on the other mechanical components - fingers crossed.

  17. #56
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    Heavier wheels, adapters.
    You will feel the difference straight away.
    Your car will feel sluggish and not as nimble in the corners.
    On the plus side heavier wheels make a comfier ride.
    Each to there own and the wheels do look nice

  18. #57
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    Just aim for ET20-25 front and ET 15-20 on the rears and you will be fine Shaun.
    ShaunS3 likes this.



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  19. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    Just aim for ET20-25 front and ET 15-20 on the rears and you will be fine Shaun.
    Excuse my ignorance but why two different sizes between front and rear?

  20. #59
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    more clearance on the rear. bigger arch and there isnt a strut in the way

  21. #60
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    do yourself a favour, grab a ruler and go to your car, measure from the rim to the arch, you now know how much clearance you have on the current wheels, and can apply that to the new with spacers. It really is quite simple

  22. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunS3 View Post
    Excuse my ignorance but why two different sizes between front and rear?
    Most of us running spacers usually stick wider ones on the back, and the figures I have given is basically OEM fitment with 10mm front and 15mm rear spacing, which is what me and other members are running to fill the arches up.



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  23. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    Most of us running spacers usually stick wider ones on the back, and the figures I have given is basically OEM fitment with 10mm front and 15mm rear spacing, which is what me and other members are running to fill the arches up.
    On standard wheels?

    Presume mine will be more due to higher offset wheels going on?

  24. #63
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    On rstt's which are et33? I run 15mm spacer upfront and 20mm on the rear so et 18 front and et 13 rear and they're still just inside the arch.

  25. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShaunS3 View Post
    On standard wheels?

    Presume mine will be more due to higher offset wheels going on?
    The range of offsets I gave will make your wheels sit in the arches like OEM 17" Avus rims running 10mm Fronts and 15mm Rear spacers. Since you are using hub adaptors, you might aswell space them out to fill the arches while you are at it. OEM offset is 32 or 33, depending on what wheel you have?



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  26. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelk11 View Post
    On rstt's which are et33? I run 15mm spacer upfront and 20mm on the rear so et 18 front and et 13 rear and they're still just inside the arch.
    Quote Originally Posted by jojo View Post
    The range of offsets I gave will make your wheels sit in the arches like OEM 17" Avus rims running 10mm Fronts and 15mm Rear spacers. Since you are using hub adaptors, you might aswell space them out to fill the arches while you are at it. OEM offset is 32 or 33, depending on what wheel you have?
    Mine is currently running on 18'' RSTT's.

    I do want them spaced out to fill the arches so do I take the new offset of 54 minus the clearance measurement of the arch to ascertain whether 20/25/30mm is required?

    Apologies to everyone for being thick....I struggle to understand this kind of stuff, not really a strong point.

  27. #66
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    You'll definitely need atleast 30mm on the rear
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  28. #67
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    sssline and JudderMan like this.

  29. #68
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    Nice! I like those wheels.

    As others have said, get H&R. Awesome quality compared to others.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  30. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_ View Post
    Nice! I like those wheels.

    As others have said, get H&R. Awesome quality compared to others.
    Thanks dude.

    I'm going to be liaising with a contact at Euro Car Parts (H&R UK Distributor) to find out if any discount is available over normal retail price offered by tuning companies.

    Shaun.

  31. #70
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    I just got mine from ECS but not sure whether you'll get done over for duty or not. It seems stricter than I was over there that's for sure.
    Handling mods++. HTA3582 stroker soon-ish. Hiding parts from the mrs since 2011. Build thread

  32. #71
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    Did anyone find out about the ECP discount?

  33. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssline View Post
    Did anyone find out about the ECP discount?
    Yeah, i made some further enquiries with ECP directly and obtained their part numbers etc. However, whilst they do sell them on request, they do not stock them in outlets and would have to order them in.

    Unfortunately, when enquiring with my local ECP, they could not give any discount on them because the number they sell are either very minimal or non existent.

    To conclude, it worked out cheaper for me to buy them from Damian @ DPM performance, whom I must say was a pleasure to deal with and will be dealing with again.

    As the sizes i ordered were not common stock for DPM, they had to be special ordered and came directly from H&R head office in Germany, then distributed from H&R UK (which is more commonly known as Euro Car Parts - as we all found out) so the boxes contain ECP part numbers also.

    I'm very happy with the adapters and cant wait to get my new BBS rims on after they have been refurbished.

    Hope that helps?

    Shaun.

  34. #73
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    Great. I think I will order mine in too. Can't wait to get my wheels on...running 17" Avus until then

    Thanks

  35. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssline View Post
    Great. I think I will order mine in too. Can't wait to get my wheels on...running 17" Avus until then

    Thanks
    What wheels have you bought?

  36. #75
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    I've got genuine rs6 (old style) which means adapters to make 5x112. Space the front by 20mm and rear 25mm by my calculations. They're ET43 and 8J so hopefully shouldn't have problems. I did have a think about cheaper adapters but safety and longevity is something worth paying extra for. I was looking for BBS alloys but difficult to find and ++expensive, then saw Sideys RS6 pics and loved it so opted for that instead when I came across a cheap set.

 

 
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