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Thread: K04 Conversion On Audi A3 AGU HELP PLEASE !!!

  1. #41
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    Prawn mate i have unplugged my N75 electric connector but left it plumbed in got my stock maf sleeved up and on replaced brake pipe with metal braided and got a load of heat shield on there car is running fine boost gauge says its running at 6psi but the boost gauge makes a beeping noise when i reach about 3000rpm and gets louder if i go over 3000rpm never had a problem with it before any ideas i will prob just unplug for now till i get the map done.

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  3. #42
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    why does your guage beep mate? has it got some sort of overboost alarm? or is it a whistle / hum from a leak or something?

    So long as you're not making more than about 6psi it'll be just fine mate.
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    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

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  4. #43
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    yeah its a digital boost gauge and has an alarm for when you go over 25psi or so and a red light would come on but it just beeps and no red light at 3000rpm lol it says im making 6 psi so will just unplug it for now forgot to mention mate i have a standard n75 vavle on my car did have an n75 j on there but it broke is it worth getting another one before i go for the map?

  5. #44
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    no, leave the standard valve (or buy a new standard valve if you fancy)

    J valve is poop.

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  6. #45
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    ok cheers mate will leave the standard one on then instead of wasting money on another j vavle just noticed prawn had one on his car so thought i would ask if if was worth getting one or not.

  7. #46
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    no, it isn't worth it!

    Mine was purely circumstantial, mine was playing up, and the wires were very tight how I had it plumbed in. Niki had a brand new J-valve on the shelf, and it fitted better in the position I had it, so it mapped it to that.

    The type of N75 you have is important, in that once the car is mapped you shouldn't change it. Having a non standard valve on there when it goes for mapping just makes more work for whoever is mapping it, as typical N75 tables might have different results to usual.
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  8. #47
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    Ok cheers for the info lads will be leaving the standard vavle on there then and save myself £50 or so for not buying another J vavle just one other quick question is it worth getting my ABF single mass flywheel Lightened before i put it on with the VR6 clutch?

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  9. #48
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    depends how much you want to spend matey!

    The stock ABF flywheel will be around 10kg, mine is lightened down to 6kg, and it does make a nice difference, but if it's just going to remain a road car then you need to decide if it's worth the £100 or so it'll cost to you.

    When I fitted one in my daily I didn't bother having it lightened, but the track car one was lightened for obvious reasons
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  10. #49
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Light flywheels are a good way to ruin a nice road car tbh. Leave it alone.

    Even going SMF has its disadvantages that your end up driving around.

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  11. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by aragorn View Post
    Light flywheels are a good way to ruin a nice road car tbh. Leave it alone.

    Even going SMF has its disadvantages that your end up driving around.
    Could you care to explain that one Kev?

    I ran the lightened flywheel on the track car when it was my daily for 500 miles a week, for 3 years, and never noticed a single downside to it?

    Unlike the ****y 6 speed SMF conversions, VR6 clutches on an ABF fly are almost silent on idle, not the typical rattly crap, and a 6kg flywheel is more than enough to keep it chugging along nicely on cruise and idle.....
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

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  12. #51
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Well talking SMF, i've just fitted one to the avant, which is predominantly driven by her indoors. Its a standard Audi flywheel, not lightened, just redrilled to take a bigger clutch and balanced up afterwards.

    I've had one on mine for a year and its mostly ok, but she drives differently to me, using lower revs and a much more relaxed style. I find that now the car has a SMF, it makes an awful reverberation/drone that vibrates thru the car when under load below 2krpm. Around town, 30mph in 4th gear is just awful, The motors only doing about 1600rpm, and even the slightest amount of load applied and you get the drone, find a slight incline and the noise is so awful you basically need to change into 3rd. Similar thing happens at say 40mph in 5th if you find a bit of an incline.

    My car does the same, but i tend to drive in lower gears with higher RPM, so i dont notice it as much. Plus i've conditioned myself that as soon as i apply load and hear the noise i'll change gear without thinking, whereas she doesnt as shes just wafting along, not trying to boot it up a hill.


    Thats before we even get into the issues you get when you lighten them. Chatter, less inertia making it easier to stall and requiring more clutch effort when drawing away or driving in very slow moving traffic, more RPM drop on gear shifts etc etc.

    As i say, its an easy way to ruin a nice car. On a loud rattly harsh focussed track or weekend toy, it wont matter a jot, but on a "full fat" everyday car, it certainly needs some thaught before just jumping in and changing it.

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  13. #52
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    Very odd indeed, I'd suggest if you're getting a drone sound there's something wrong there! None of the ones I've fitted to various friends cars do anything like that!

    I didn't lighten the one in my last daily, as I didn't feel it was hugely worth while as it was 'just' my daily driver and I already had the track car, but I didnt really notice any downsides to it when the track car was my daily, no chatter from it, or difficulty driving.

    that said, I wasn't aware that RPM's below 2500 even existed? Where do you find those?
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  14. #53
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    All SMF's do it at low RPM under load, the combination of parts (engine/transmission mounts, gear ratios etc etc) on the missus car just seems to all work together to make a fairly horrible noise. I guess with a big exhaust, induction kit and whatnot you'll probably notice it less, but the missus car is entirely standard on that front, which makes it more obvious.

    As you point out, i rarely drive below 2k, but when your driving 8 miles across town in 25-30mph traffic, theres little point stirring the box and keeping the turbo spooled up, as your not going anywhere quickly anyway. In those situations you just want to stick the car in a high gear and waft along effortlessly, and instead your forced to stir the box to make the noise go away, or leave it revving away in 3rd.

    Try it yourself next time you take your car out, drive along at 30 in 4th or 5th so the revs are nice and low, and apply load and listen.

    2000 A4 1.8T Sport Quattro Avant, Berry Pearl
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  15. #54
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    never ever come across this droning noise on smf when driving..
    you sure somethings just not "off"?

    certainly not all smf's do this at all!
    I have several myself and have done dozens more... never ever come across this
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  16. #55
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Well all engines make that "labouring" sort of resonance if you load the engine up at low RPM's surely? And i dont mean flooring it, just mild accelleration is enough to make the noise, obviously it gets worse the more load you apply...

    The DMF seems to help mask it, so you can labour the engine somewhat and it doesnt really become that noticeable.

    I've fitted an Audi 80 solid flywheel to three different 1.8T A4's now and all of them have a marked change in NVH at low RPMs.

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  17. #56
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    Sounds to me like you're driving it wrong Kev :P

    A bit like driving round in a tdi above 4k the whole time. Just plain wrong.

    I see where you're coming from, Dad has issues stalling the A3, and always changes into second before he's even reached 2k, and surprise surprise, it shudders and doesn't like it.

    it's a simple case of driving it wrong as far as I'm concerned!
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

    But I know nothing so ignore me.

  18. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    why does your guage beep mate? has it got some sort of overboost alarm? or is it a whistle / hum from a leak or something?

    So long as you're not making more than about 6psi it'll be just fine mate.
    alright prawn i have removed my boost gauge today and the beep whistle/ hum noise is still there thought it was from the boost gauge but its not the noise is coming from the center of my dash the noise starts at about 3000rpm and gets louder as i go through the revs the noise is not there when i rev it any ideas anyone this one is bugging me???

  19. #58
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    Boost leak whistling most likely mate.

    I'd check all the lines to your DV and all the vac lines, plus check everything on your FMIC as well.

    Without wanting to worry you, I also had a whislte / squeel from the turbo area on my first ko3S and it turned out to be a dead turbo :S
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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  20. #59
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    Alright prawn have checked all vac lines all FMIC pipes cant find any leak mate will put it on the VAG COM later and see what comes up hers a little video of whats its doing if anyone has any ideas the n75 is unplugged but still plumbed in im in 3rd gear in the video when you hear the noise stop im off the throttle and when you hear the noise im on the throttle.


  21. #60
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    sounds like a leak to me.

    Air squeezing out past a loosely fitted connection or similar.

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  22. #61
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    yup, a leak, gonna be a biatch to find

  23. #62
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    Smoke test ftw....

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  24. #63
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    that's really random!

    Leak for sure though
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    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

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  25. #64
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    ok cheers for you help looks like i got a leak then plugged the audi into a snap on dianostic machine earlier and didnt bring up one code so nothing major but it is really random the sound is coming from the dials area just dont know what would be leaking around that area will have to rip it all out and have a good look then.

  26. #65
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    Could also be the T piece you've used for your Boost guage or DV line perhaps mate, some T's are unlucky and buzz like crazy on boost!
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Prawns TFSI Turbo'd 1.8T Track Car

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  27. #66
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    Have checked everything and cant find no leak i took my mate out earlier whos pretty good with his cars and he dont think it is a leak he thinks its some sort of alarm beep coming from inside the car rather than the engine it sounds like the instrument panel is making the beeping noise has any one had any sort of problem like this before?

  28. #67
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    Has prawn says some boost gauges need a reducer to stop them buzzing ..although ive never heard one sound like that.. i take it you have tried disconnecting the boost gauge and retesting?

  29. #68
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    i have disconnected boost gauge altogether and i still have the noise so def not the boost gauge sounds like the instrument panel making the noise?

  30. #69
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    I would say a fault in the rev counter / speedo electronics then... try dissconecting them and test? (watch the speed cams though )

  31. #70
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    ok cheers dave will have to have a look into the instrument panel and see if there is any fault with it.

    Also im looking to get a new back box and upgrade the rest of the exhaust to the rear of the car have been looking at some milltek exhaust pipes that are 2.5" through to the back box is it worth going for 3" through to the back box or will that be to big and what sort of back box would be best was gonna get a 3 or 4 inch back box or does it ot matter with the back box???

  32. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chester999 View Post
    ok cheers dave will have to have a look into the instrument panel and see if there is any fault with it.

    Also im looking to get a new back box and upgrade the rest of the exhaust to the rear of the car have been looking at some milltek exhaust pipes that are 2.5" through to the back box is it worth going for 3" through to the back box or will that be to big and what sort of back box would be best was gonna get a 3 or 4 inch back box or does it ot matter with the back box???
    Must be a British thing but what's a back box

  33. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neru View Post
    Must be a British thing but what's a back box
    Exhaust box at the back of the car

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  34. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neru View Post
    Must be a British thing but what's a back box
    Usually called a "muffler" in america-land.

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  35. #74
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    I have managed to find the problem that was making this beeping noise it was the pipe that i had replaced going from the inlet manifold to the brake servo it had a 1 way vavle that i didnt put back in when replacing the pipe. Put the 1 way vavle back in today and no noise sorted.

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  36. #75
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    Anyone got any ideas on why my clutch is not working just took it to a friend to have it changed he has changed clutch and flywheel it has all bolted on fine but the clutch release bearing does not seem to be fully engauging that is what he has told me any ides anyone any help would be grat cheers?????

  37. #76
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    Can anyone tell me what there boost gauge reads on idle ?

  38. #77
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    About -20hg

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    Re: K04 Conversion On Audi A3 AGU HELP PLEASE !!!

    Holy mother of bump, I missed like 6 pages lol
    I quite often say I'm going to do things.

    Then never do them.

  40. #79
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    Re: K04 Conversion On Audi A3 AGU HELP PLEASE !!!

    Mine reads just a little over -20
    k03s/k04 hybrid a3 275bhp 293lbft
    vr6 mk2 golf gti

    fellow north east members add your name to this list.
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  41. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by coatesy View Post
    Mine reads just a little over -20
    Over or under?

    Mine reads about -22.


 

 
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