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  1. #1
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Unhappy Seriously at my wits end now...........

    Evening boys and girls.

    In need of some real help before i lose it.

    Noticed about a month ago that the cars dropping revs between 400 and 900 rpm when coming out of gear, the revs will drop then come back up to 900 and idle like normal.

    So far ive fitted new MAF, IAT sensor, N75, all boost and vac lines are silicone, TB reset, cars idling at 20inhg so no vac leaks.

    Thing is the cars driving amazing, made 235 bhp the other day (vag com 188.7 g/s).

    Only fault codes have been MAF, thats been replaced today and the Lambda sensor when logging on Saturday but it hasn't come back since.

    Can a faulty Lambda cause the revs to drop, heard it can cause bad idle, also my mpg is around 25 when it used to be high 20's to low 30's.

    Someone help .
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

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  3. #2
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    Can I ask a cheeky question Dan: why do you care? That sounds rude. haha, it isn't ment to, but does it actually cause you trouble?

    I have so many people asking me about 'problems' with their cars, that to me, don't appear to be problems at all, merely characteristics of how a petrol engine works...

    Perhaps dropping to 400rpm is a little low, but if it's not causing stalling or juddering issues, I'd be inclined to not worry about it.

    Perhaps a clean of the throttle body might help it a tad, or cleaning the injectors and FPR in an ultra sonic, I've found that always makes the idle seem silky smooth.....
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  4. #3
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    No i get you mate.

    Its bothering me because when it drops the car feels like it wants to cut out but just pulls it back before it does.

    Yeah think thats my last resort, cleaned the injectors and fpr about 3 month ago but will try for nothing.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  5. #4
    Chugger

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    So you finally fitted a new MAF, as it was very obviously a MAF problem in your last post. Remember to disconnect the battery after doing any repairs, as iv found some fixes don't make much difference until you do this, disconnecting the battery clears any adaptations the ecu has made for leaks, bad MAF readings etc.

    Was the lambda fault an actual fault, or too rich or too lean?
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  6. #5
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Not really mate.

    Fitted a working MAF from s3paul on here and car still drops revs, obviuosly car ran better in general with his and the new MAF from today in but the rev problem is still their.

    Dont know, paul wiped the codes without saving them lol.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  7. #6
    S3 Paul's Avatar
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    It was something like ( worded diffrent) B1 S1 lambda malfunction,
    As i said dan... Fit a new one, If theprobe isnt reading right the ECU will do silly stuff to try and keep the engine going...
    Check how many wires it has?
    Are they narrow band or wide band on the early S3?
    Noggy Blue 2001 S3

    I ask questions because i change my mind so much. If i ask questions you have already covered... just leave it be?

  8. #7
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Have you had your intake system smoke tested Dani? you may think you don't have a vac leak but you would be surprised how revealing a smoke test can be...

    From the symptoms it does sound like a vac leak but difficult to diagnose without actually looking at the car tbh...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  9. #8
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Mines narrowband paul.

    Checked last night and its 4 wirea, tbh it looks proper tatty and like its still the orignial one.

    No i havent tufty, need to though but theres no one around here that offers.

    Do yo know anyone that does paul?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  10. #9
    s3dave's Avatar
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    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Not really mate.

    Fitted a working MAF from s3paul on here and car still drops revs, obviuosly car ran better in general with his and the new MAF from today in but the rev problem is still their.

    Dont know, paul wiped the codes without saving them lol.
    Most garages should have some sort of smoke test facilities tbh... its a general maintenance thing rather than exclusive to turbo/performance cars..

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  12. #11
    Westy's Avatar
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    You say the revs are fluctuating coming out of gear??? Have you tried changed the clutch pedal switch??
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  13. #12
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    tested it via vagcom mate.

    0 when inactive and 1 when active.

    Thanks dave, ill give them a call.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  14. #13
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    tested it via vagcom mate.

    0 when inactive and 1 when active.

    Thanks dave, ill give them a call.
    Yeah it might be showing 1s and 0s in VCDS but it could still be a bit dicky. Might be worth replacing it, or at least adjusting it (if it's the old adjustable type).
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  15. #14
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Ok might just buy a new one for sake of a tenner.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  16. #15
    S3 Paul's Avatar
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    Dan,
    I do know of a place that has done a smoke test on my Bora a while ago, If you get completely stuck can always ask them?
    I would use it for a day or two, Check the codes. Then measure the Lambda probes readings,
    The other fun job is... Checking everywhere for a vac leak,
    Noggy Blue 2001 S3

    I ask questions because i change my mind so much. If i ask questions you have already covered... just leave it be?

  17. #16
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    How do you log vacuum leaks with vag com, is it block 032 for fuel trims? Can this bee done at idle? Just struggling to get out on the road and do full logs.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  18. #17
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    How do you log vacuum leaks with vag com, is it block 032 for fuel trims? Can this bee done at idle? Just struggling to get out on the road and do full logs.
    I can't remember exactly but I can check when I get home. It something to do with resetting the fuel trims then leaving the car to idle for 10 mins and see what they have changed too. If its within a certain range it means you have a vac leak.
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  19. #18
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Thanks mate, if you could.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  20. #19
    knoxie's Avatar
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    mine does this and so did my 306gti6 dont bother me tbh

  21. #20
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    What car you got mate?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  22. #21
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Thanks mate, if you could.
    It was in the stickys mate:

    How use VAGCOM/VCDS to test for boost & vac leaks
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  23. #22
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Nice one mate.

    So does can this be done while the cars stationary or does it have to be done while driving?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  24. #23
    Westy's Avatar
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    No mate you can do it stationary but let the car run until the two figures stop changing.
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  25. #24
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    So little update.

    Removed and cleaned the TB tonight and fitted a new TB gasket, TB wasnt overly dirty, dont get me wrong it wasnt clean but no baked on ****e etc, anyway fitted back on and i thought id check block 032 to see about vac leak.
    Car was solid, left for 10-15 mins and no movement at all, both tables stopped at 0%, after this i reset the TB but havent drove the car, will see how it is tomorrow.
    Also picked up my new lambda sensor, will try and fit this week but if not itll be fitted with my full 3" exhaust and DP next week and see if that cures it but fingers crossed.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  26. #25
    Reverse Gear

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    over the past few weeks i have noticed the revs dropping lower than normal when coming out of gear pulling up at junctions.i am watching the rev counter every time now & wondering if i am even imagine it! this has coincide with another unusual occurrence which has happened say four times over the last month.

    when starting the car from cold it starts fine as normal but as soon as you touch the accelerator it splutters & nearly cuts out then picks up again straight away & every thing is ok.

    the only known issue i have with the car is a faulty exhaust EGT sensor which is being replaced this sat.

  27. #26
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    Be interesting to see if it cures your problem, ive got a lambda sensor to fit when i get my 22m socket, if i cant get it to budge then no biggy lol, new exhaust next week so either way ill know if that helps by next friday.

    Just to add, this seems to be clutch related, when stationary earlier, if i dipped the clutch then let of it the revs would flutter and the boost would rise 2inhg from 20 to 18, then settle again, also the clutch would go alot louder.

    Possibly faulty clutch switch?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  28. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    Possibly faulty clutch switch?
    Get it changed lad!
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  29. #28
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    Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? If dirt is chocking up the throttle flap during off throttle, idle will be erractic and ecu will try to compensate.

    Had exactly the same problem with mine sometime ago and problem went away after I cleaned it.
    Audi A4 2.0TFSI Quattro S-line - Stock! (for now)

  30. #29
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    Ordering one today mate .

    Yup, its in actual fact made the car worse, now the car is over/under revving by itself! So god knows why.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  31. #30
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    Have you reset it after cleaning? if not thats why its acting like that, as there are no reference points set,you will have moved the flap in cleaning, so all the settings are lost.

  32. #31
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    I had a similar issue on my old A4. When starting it from cold the revs would bounce up and down between say 600 and 1300rpm, then slowly settle out to a normal idle. Then whenever clutching out for a junction it revs would drop right down to ~400rpm and stay there until you stopped, at which point it would pull itself back up to normal idle.

    What cured it for me was replacing the tank vent valve (N80).

    I guess you could rule that out by capping off the engine side of the N80, leaving the tank side open and going for a test drive.

    I think it was basically acting like a vacuum leak, sticking open or whatever.

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  33. #32
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    Yeah ive realigned it dave.

    Thats interestig aragon, by n80 valve do you mean the charcoal canister?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  34. #33
    "Stick a V8 in it!"

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    Not looked at an A3's pipework, on an A4 the charcoal canister sits out behind the wheel arch liner, then a pipe runs thru and connects to the N80 valve, and a pipe runs from this to the TIP and inlet manifold. The N80 opens and closes the charcoal canister off from the engine as and when the ECU wants to.

    I think if its open when it doesnt want it to be, it acts a bit like an air leak.

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  35. #34
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    On the s3's i believe i has a vac feed from the throttle body to the canister then it vents to under the wheel liner. Ill try and remove it all over the weekend and see how it is.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  36. #35
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    On the s3's i believe i has a vac feed from the throttle body to the canister then it vents to under the wheel liner. Ill try and remove it all over the weekend and see how it is.
    I'm going to be ripping all that out pretty soon too.

    Would you mind knocking up a how to guide if you beat me to it?
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  37. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani_B19 View Post
    On the s3's i believe i has a vac feed from the throttle body to the canister then it vents to under the wheel liner. Ill try and remove it all over the weekend and see how it is.
    The charcoal canister has a vacuum feed from the outlet on the std throttle body and also into the TIP...

    Removing all of this typically throws an EVAP incorrect flow fault...
    16825/P0441/001089 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  38. #37
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Yeah will do mate, looks so easy though, have a look on pae 24 of wellys build thread, to begin with ipl just cap the pipe off on the driivers side then see how it runs, them ill rip it all out and tidy the bay up once its running right.
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  39. #38
    Dani_B19's Avatar
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    Mine should be ok though with it been none wideband according to wellys build thread? If it does through a code up, will affect any of the settings, boost, fuel etc?
    Driving the most secretive S3 on ASN

  40. #39
    Westy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by <tuffty/> View Post
    The charcoal canister has a vacuum feed from the outlet on the std throttle body and also into the TIP...

    Removing all of this typically throws an EVAP incorrect flow fault...
    16825/P0441/001089 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    <tuffty/>
    I thought this could be avoided by leaving the solenoid valve connected or by wiring in a transistor?

    It definitely tidies up the engine bay and gives a bit more room with it all removed.
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  41. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westy View Post
    I thought this could be avoided by leaving the solenoid valve connected or by wiring in a transistor?

    It definitely tidies up the engine bay and gives a bit more room with it all removed.
    Nope... its a control valve designed to release pressure in the tank etc... not sure how it all works but it will throw a fault code and a CEL if not coded out...

    Its not a prob to vent the tank to atmos in terms of its operation.. the evap system is there as a combo of pressure release and emissions...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

 

 
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