Worst possible outcome...

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Essflee

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Following on from my previous thread i've just been given the bad news...

Just been up to the garage where my car is and the bloke has just shown me a hole in the side of the block and 2 cracks in the sump, wipeout...

Gutted isn't the word, got to try and sort out what to do with it now,

Is it worth putting a new lump in and paying for the garage to do the work which isn't going to be cheap or cut my losses and sell it as it is, I haven't really got the space to break it down myself, if I did sell it as it is what do peolpe think it might be worth ??

Got to way up the best option now :(
 
sorry to hear that bud. engine £800 tops? swap £500 in labour? must be worth fixing and keeping. selling with knackered engine? probably half the price.
 
This same thing happened to one of the projects I recently bought. The oil pump had blocked, starved the crank, which caused the rod to sieze and throwing it through the side of the case, seems more common if the oil pickup isn't cleaned.

Feel for you, but if you do it yourself. There's plenty of AGU's about, buy one. Strip it put new bearings in and forged rods and you'll be good to go.
 
Leggy, that's harsh, sorry to hear that man.

Any indication as to how and why it happend???
 
Cookstein said:
So it was rod failure? Was it mapped? What stage was it?
Click to expand...

Yup, the rod has punched a hole in the side of the block,

Was a custom remap with jabba, no extra mods bar air filter and dv...
 
Maz said:
Leggy, that's harsh, sorry to hear that man.

Any indication as to how and why it happend???
Click to expand...

Not really mate, I assume it was the torque that killed the rod I dont know...
 
beachbuggy said:
This same thing happened to one of the projects I recently bought. The oil pump had blocked, starved the crank, which caused the rod to sieze and throwing it through the side of the case, seems more common if the oil pickup isn't cleaned.

Feel for you, but if you do it yourself. There's plenty of AGU's about, buy one. Strip it put new bearings in and forged rods and you'll be good to go.
Click to expand...

I've just had a quick look on ebay, does it have to be a Bam engine code or could any 210/225 lump be dropped in, i wouldn't beable to do the work myself, don't have the no how for that unfortunately.

Cheapest i'm seeing at the moment is around the 2k mark
 
How much do you think its worth ??

Might just wash my hands with it and buy a cheap diesel to run around in.
 
I sold my a3 tdi se with leather. Not in great nick. Cambelt had gone. For £1300 on ebay.

Not sure how much youd get
 
Pay Welly to do it??? lol
 
audi upgrades
any audi/vw engine transverse engine would fit. So agu , aum, apy, bam, amk.

the block and heads on them are all compatible and the AGU is a large port head, which a few people have fitted.

How olds the car and what's mileage?
 
Motors in motion are a company up north who are pretty good, specialist VAG dismantler, I purchased a gearbox from them over tinterweb and I had it the next day.

Edit: with a 3 month warranty
 
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i thought the A4 engines were longitudinally mounted, does this not matter? If not, then yeah i saw those to :p
 
Sorry to hear that mate, give yourself some breathing space and way up the odds, you have just spent a lot on the clutch/gearbox havent you? if you sell "as is" nobody is going to be interested in the money you have put in for that...
cant you buy a cheapy runaround untill you decide?
i would not let it go as is, you will lose big money.....

Where abouts are you? i have a large workshop if close, to transplant the engine one weekend??
 
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Cheers for the help lads, much appreciated ;)

Do i need all the auxiallary's with the various engines or can i use mine and do i need the key/barrel to go with the engine, bit lost...

Also if i bought one of the engines listed for instance a 150bhp, do i then need to strip it right down and transfer everything from mine on to it ?

Cheers again for the help...
 
i think all you need is the block and you can use your auxialeries (sp??), Dave will know

edit, yep dave did know^
 
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audi upgrades
s3dave said:
Sorry to hear that mate, give yourself some breathing space and way up the odds, you have just spent a lot on the clutch/gearbox havent you? if you sell "as is" nobody is going to be interested in the money you have put in for that...
cant you buy a cheapy runaround untill you decide?
i would not let it go as is, you will lose big money.....

Where abouts are you? i have a large workshop if close, to transplant the engine one weekend??
Click to expand...

Sods law mate, spend all that cash on the clutch and think everything will be alright for a bit and bang, lol

The bloke at the garage said the same, give it a week to decide on what to do.

Thanks for the offer of the workshop but i'm down in the east, about 4 hours from you...
 
Funky_Junky said:
Out of interest, how much torque were you running?
Click to expand...

As a rough guide when i used the liquid gauge id see about 300lbft torque, sometimes spiking to 325-330 and rapidly dropping back at the 300 mark...

Whether this played a part in the bent rod I dont know, could have been the oil pick blocked or I did keep seeing a Knock sensor fault come up, could have been that I dont know...
 
leggy said:
As a rough guide when i used the liquid gauge id see about 300lbft torque, sometimes spiking to 325-330 and rapidly dropping back at the 300 mark...

Whether this played a part in the bent rod I dont know, could have been the oil pick blocked or I did keep seeing a Knock sensor fault come up, could have been that I dont know...
Click to expand...

Not always massively accurate, but if you were seeing that torque, it would kill a rod.

When did it actually happen, what revs, gear etc?
 
Welly said:
Not always massively accurate, but if you were seeing that torque, it would kill a rod.

When did it actually happen, what revs, gear etc?
Click to expand...

Because I'd felt this vibration a couple of times before I purposely tried it again sitting at about 70ish in 6th and accelerating hard, only this time when it started to vibrate I didn't have time to come back off the gas before it went bang... :(
 
leggy said:
Because I'd felt this vibration a couple of times before I purposely tried it again sitting at about 70ish in 6th and accelerating hard, only this time when it started to vibrate I didn't have time to come back off the gas before it went bang... :(
Click to expand...

Vibration? What sort? Anyway, doing what you were doing meant that the torque was at it's utmost... Also that's when timing pull tends to be at it's most as well. Those two combined.... Bend.
 
I'd felt a really violent vibration through the steering wheel when accelerating in a similar situation, enough to make you automatically come of the gas.

Almost bought a Seat 225 Bam this morning but it sold, the bloke has an Apy too but reckons it's no good for me because of the vvt, is that right ?
 
I'm assuming your saying the APY is no good as it doesn't have VVT where as your AMK does?

If that's the case, you can just swap over the VVT tensioner from your AMK into the APY engine head. It's a little hassle to do but can be done.
 
leggy said:
I'd felt a really violent vibration through the steering wheel when accelerating in a similar situation, enough to make you automatically come of the gas.

Almost bought a Seat 225 Bam this morning but it sold, the bloke has an Apy too but reckons it's no good for me because of the vvt, is that right ?
Click to expand...

A vibration through the steering wheel?? Weird... Only when under load I assume. Bit strange to cause a vibration through the wheel...
 
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