YHW Haldex Plug Impressions

Shoomakan

Grand Nagus
Good afternoon everyone,

So, I've had my haldex plug in (c-clip) for the last week, and have covered about 500 kilometers on it so far. My impressions thus far:

*Absolutely zero binding/locking at slow speeds, even with steering wheel fully locked.

*Car doesn't chirp from the front when I hit the gas anymore.

*Car is much more predictable when driving hard through mountain roads, especially on twisties with smooth asphalt.

*Car doesn't rotate as easily into corners anymore, but I think only people who drive their cars hard/on a track will notice this immediately. Needs a bit more weight thrown around before it'll let go, but it isn't enough to bother me. Just need to get used to it I guess.

*Car doesn't magically turn into a Mitsubishi Evolution, ie, it won't slide through corners like you've added a limited slip differential to the car. I didn't expect this, but I'm sure some tweens who own a TT225 or an S3 think this is a possibility. It isn't.

Before installing the plug, I changed out the Haldex oil in the system, but that proved to be kind of pointless as I faced another issue: the area around the stock plug had corroded slightly, so my c-clip hadn't seated properly. At some point 2 days ago, the c-clip came loose and the resulting leak caused a good portion of my Haldex oil to leave the system. As a result of this, I imagine the pump overheated from spinning too quickly and popped a fuse. Please make sure the c-clip is well seated before you drive off. I got lucky, just replaced oil, re-seated c-clip properly, and all is right in the world again. Had I continued to drive with that leak I'm sure I would have done lasting damage. I may have already, but since I pulled over so quickly when I noticed the car became FWD, I think I'm fine.

Anyway, I have not contacted or been contacted by YHW in any way. I bought the item off of Ebay and shipped it at my own expense. This is not an ad or a promo, just my personal experiences (THUS FAR) with this product. Use it at your own risk.

If anything else happens, I'll be sure to post it here. Have a nice day, everyone.
 

IPG

Registered User
Good info! Been looking at these too.

How did you find install? I've checked mine. It's c-clip. But it's right at the top. How there'll did you access it?!
 

Shoomakan

Grand Nagus
Good info! Been looking at these too.

How did you find install? I've checked mine. It's c-clip. But it's right at the top. How there'll did you access it?!

Well, my mechanic thought it would be easier to drop the rear subframe to install the plug. I'm sure you can do it on a lift if you have good dexterity and the right (convoluted) tools.

Do you happen to have a link that this ?? Cheers :)

Sure! Here you go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powertrack-...ora-/200944893898?hash=item2ec93fbfca&vxp=mtr

MAKE SURE WHAT PLUG YOU NEED. There's a c-clip plug and a hex plug. First one we ordered was the hex plug because we checked online for fitment instead of getting underneath the car. My car is a 2001 and has a c-clip.
 

hendo#1

Registered User
Nice review, thanks for writing.

I can't help but get the impression these are a bit like snake oil, how exactly do they work?
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator

hendo#1

Registered User
Im all for cheap upgrades but usually if its too good to be true, it usually is.

Would be interested to hear your opinion on them tuffy, would you have one?
 

snowy

Registered User
the area around the stock plug had corroded slightly, so my c-clip hadn't seated properly.

Had to cut one out with a dremel grinder (controller was removed from an 8yr old/40K miles car)
YHW_INSERT_000.jpg


Corrosion had penetrated past the seal
View attachment 75025

Stronger wider circlip, circlip channel cleaned/smoothed out using small dremel grinder bit
YHW_INSERT_002.jpg

YHW_INSERT_006.jpg


Rubber seal can get stuck in the circlip channel and get skinned - the rubber seal from the OEM insert/plug is better quality rubber, but is may be old and dry
YHW_INSERT_003.jpg

YHW_INSERT_007.jpg



Insert installed, if you look through the hole of the left you can see the insert blocking the hole through which the controller would pump oil in order to get the haldex unit to release clutch plate pressure
YHW_INSERT_005.jpg


YHW_INSERT.jpg



*Car doesn't magically turn into a Mitsubishi Evolution, ie, it won't slide through corners like you've added a limited slip differential to the car. I didn't expect this, but I'm sure some tweens who own a TT225 or an S3 think this is a possibility. It isn't.

lol - bit more work required I'm afraid - but you're a step closer

Good writeup

ps Have you coded out traction control ?
 

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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Im all for cheap upgrades but usually if its too good to be true, it usually is.

Would be interested to hear your opinion on them tuffty, would you have one?

Conceptually ok but not sure if its suitable for a road car long term... that said I am sure the blue or even the HPA controller I use will shorten the life span of the haldex assembly as a whole (as is the way of all things modified)...

If I was on a budget for a track based car then maybe I would fit one but on my current car I wouldn't...

I really like the HPA for flexibility... just needs a few little rough edges sorted and ultimately an app rather than the slightly lacklustre android tablet that comes with it and it would be perfect

<tuffty/>
 

Shoomakan

Grand Nagus
Had to cut one out with a dremel grinder (controller was removed from an 8yr old/40K miles car)
View attachment 75024

Corrosion had penetrated past the seal
View attachment 75025

Stronger wider circlip, circlip channel cleaned/smoothed out using small dremel grinder bit
View attachment 75026
View attachment 75034

Rubber seal can get stuck in the circlip channel and get skinned - the rubber seal from the OEM insert/plug is better quality rubber, but is may be old and dry
View attachment 75027
View attachment 75033


Insert installed, if you look through the hole of the left you can see the insert blocking the hole through which the controller would pump oil in order to get the haldex unit to release clutch plate pressure
View attachment 75032

View attachment 75035





lol - bit more work required I'm afraid - but you're a step closer

Good writeup

ps Have you coded out traction control ?

Nice pics! I had the same issue just couldn't catalog it as I didn't do the work myself. What do you mean about the traction control, though?
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Nice pics! I had the same issue just couldn't catalog it as I didn't do the work myself. What do you mean about the traction control, though?

ESP...

<tuffty/>
 

Shoomakan

Grand Nagus
ESP...

<tuffty/>

I know he meant the ESP. But why would I want to code it out? The car gets fully sideways and as long as ESP is off it never interferes.
 
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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
I know he meant the ESP. But why would I want to code it out? The car gets fully sideways and as long as ESP is off it never interferes.

Because ESP on tuned cars kicks in like a sledghammer... this is fine if you remember to turn it off every time but it is next to useless on a tuned car so I coded mine out... saves the times where I have forgotten to switch it off and stops the wear on the ESP button too :)

<tuffty/>
 

Shoomakan

Grand Nagus
Because ESP on tuned cars kicks in like a sledghammer... this is fine if you remember to turn it off every time but it is next to useless on a tuned car so I coded mine out... saves the times where I have forgotten to switch it off and stops the wear on the ESP button too :)

<tuffty/>

Ah, ok. Makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up.
 

snowy

Registered User
I know he meant the ESP. But why would I want to code it out? The car gets fully sideways and as long as ESP is off it never interferes.

You can also code specifically code out the ASR system (an engine ECU program which cuts your throttle), leaving the button to turn on/off the EDL (a program run by the ABS system to reduce wheelspin)

EDL works OK on loose surfaces, not so much on dry tarmac

Can't find my coding instructions though, seem to recall ASR coding needs to be subtracted from whatever your existing coding is via a tool like vagcom - vw vortex should have the relevant info somewhere

@snowy how did you go about removing that section of the haldex?

lose much oil?

smalls hex headed bolts and a plug

some oil will be lost

If you're fitting one of these an oil change would be sensible though
 
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