XS Power Downpipes & Manifolds

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I'll be fitting mine in the 1st week of Jan Jim, so I'll let you know how simple it is! From memory, due to the shape of the manifold, spanner access is almost non existant to some of the bolts, so I'll have to wait and see how best to tackle it!
 
Prawn said:
I'll be fitting mine in the 1st week of Jan Jim, so I'll let you know how simple it is! From memory, due to the shape of the manifold, spanner access is almost non existant to some of the bolts, so I'll have to wait and see how best to tackle it!
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Thanks. Appreciate your help. I'm just weighing up whether to get stuck into the whole manifold, rods, head and hybrid experience.
 
Westy said:
The manifold is not an easy thing to change. Most will remove the cylinder head to get at it.

With the head off you will need a new head gasket and timing belt. Also whenever doing the timing belt it's a good idea to do the water pump too.

You can make this job as involved as you want In terms of work and replacing parts.

You may want to get the turbo checked or refurbed while you're near it. It would also be a good idea to do the DP at the same time. With the head off you might want to get that checked over or change the rods for forged ones. The list is endless.

Even if you only wanted the mani fitted it'll still end up bein an expensive labour bill as it's quite a big job.
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Thanks westy.

Very informative and lots to consider. I'd assumed, like any mod, that one thing very much leads to another and this is no different.

I'd love to see the performance difference in the vehicle with all of the above in situ compared to mine.
 
I was always under the impression that it was a head off job. I'm tempted to do mine as mine manifold has a crack in it. I'm happy to have the head off and fitting a new headgasket etc, although I have done the timing belt a few times on other cars im not sure I'd be confident enough to do it on mine... Although massively tempted to give it a go.
 
I have removed the manifold in situ and removed the head to access it needless to say if i ever have to remove it again i will certinally be removing the head to do it, a tubular manifold im sure will give you more room to work with between the runners than a cast one but i would advise still removing the head

You could also find a tight one that draws the stud out with it which again will be a complete pita :thumbsup:
 
Anyone who says fitting one of these is a breeze, think again.

Not an easy job by any means. However, it depends ultimately on how much you want that extra flow.

So, what makes it such a pain? The arrangement of the holes on the Turbo flange in conjunction with the runners of the manifold simply.

It is outright impossible to use OEM bolts to mate this, they won't work.

Use 3 x K04 turbo/downpipe studs. Wind those into the turbo short end first from memory. Makes sure they're tight. Then, when manifold fitted, use 3 stainless nuts (preferably with Nordlock washers to stop them loosening) to bolt the tubo and manifold together.

One of the nuts (top left of the three) will require a 'special' spanner to actually get to the nut at all. Trust me, it can be done.

Mani fitted to head:

104.jpg


'Special spanner'
114.jpg


113.jpg


Et voila:

115.jpg
 
Cheers Welly.

Sorry but I'm still a bit lost with what nuts and bolts are needed?

As you know I've already got the XS DP and will soon be fitting the mani to a standard k04 turbo.

I need to ensure I have everything I need before I do this job along with IE rods and large port head.
 
Westy said:
Cheers Welly.

Sorry but I'm still a bit lost with what nuts and bolts are needed?

As you know I've already got the XS DP and will soon be fitting the mani to a standard k04 turbo.

I need to ensure I have everything I need before I do this job along with IE rods and large port head.
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OK, this what you should be aiming to do:

97.jpg


98.jpg


Would into the turbo in the above pictures are 3 K03 (not K04 sorry - will edit original post) downpipe studs - part number N 907 678 01. Cost around £0.55 each inc VAT.

I think those studs are M10 thread, so get some stainless steel nuts which mate them from the local hardware shop for pence.

This way the manifold will slot onto the turbo. Does that makes sense?
 
pats3poa said:
That's a good question! I'd also like to know

Pat
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Not really. I think it's arguable how long heat wrap would last on it, that video shows how hot they get. Also, it is very tightly put together, with very little gappage in between the runners.
 
My brother (ex mechanic) and a friend (Audi Mechanic) wanna try it with the head on. Who am I to argue its them who will be doing the work for beer tokens.
 
MintyS3 said:
My brother (ex mechanic) and a friend (Audi Mechanic) wanna try it with the head on. Who am I to argue its them who will be doing the work for beer tokens.
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Fair enough, I say go for it. It's just always been easier IMO to take the head off. Less hassle, everything accessible. Less scrabbling around in the dark, at the back of an engine. :)

Whatever works :)
 
Welly said:
OK, this what you should be aiming to do:

97.jpg


98.jpg


Would into the turbo in the above pictures are 3 K03 (not K04 sorry - will edit original post) downpipe studs - part number N 907 678 01. Cost around £0.55 each inc VAT.

I think those studs are M10 thread, so get some stainless steel nuts which mate them from the local hardware shop for pence.

This way the manifold will slot onto the turbo. Does that makes sense?
Click to expand...

That crystal mate thanks. What's different with the standard turbo bolts then?
 
Westy said:
Ok mate. I'll order the bolts ;)

My biggest nightmare is getting everything apart and not having the right parts to get it back together again straight away.
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Yep, I can understand that. OEM bolts will not work. Simple.
 
Westy said:
Ok mate. I'll order the bolts ;)

My biggest nightmare is getting everything apart and not having the right parts to get it back together again straight away.
Click to expand...

Dont forget that i got you some bolts and washers from bill ;)
 
Welly said:
Yep, I can understand that. OEM bolts will not work. Simple.
Click to expand...

So the part number you quoted earlier, is that for the OEM bolts?

Edit:

I've just remembered that the standard bolts go down through the top of the mani and scre into the turbo thread.

I've also just bought 3 new ones from Bill :banghead:
 
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Westy said:
So the part number you quoted earlier, is that for the OEM bolts?

Edit:

I've just remembered that the standard bolts go down through the top of the mani and scre into the turbo thread.

I've also just bought 3 new ones from Bill :banghead:
Click to expand...

Part number above was for the studs in the picture, wound into the turbo.
 
I see the buy it now on eBay has magically gone up from £380 ish to £450 now :-/
 
welly, i saw a yellow s3 on ebay and thought of your bumble bee. good to see youre still pioneering this stuff.
 
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I am installing the decat downpipe and the manifold at the moment. will post pictures on a new thread once im done.
 
guys i have been in contact with usa XSpower (relentless) and i can get these downpipes and manifolds alot cheaper. the new manifold will cost $300 shipped and dp with decat $325 or with sports cat $375.
these need to be bought through me to get these prices.
i have also created a facebook advertising this. Log in | Facebook
 
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Westy said:
Easter holiday will be the date the XS mani will be fitted but I'll then need to come across to see you again for some dyno action.
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i may sneak in there before. im hoping this feb :)
 
superkarl said:
Sam you will have to pay customs and import charges. So prob wonnt be cheaper at all. And tbh, theyre cheap enough.
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decatted down pipe is around £150 cheaper and sports cat is £210 cheaper :)
 
sambryant said:
decatted down pipe is around £150 cheaper and sports cat is £210 cheaper :)
Click to expand...

ARGH! SCN are invading, another one! Hey Sam. Welcome.

For those who are genuinely bothered about flow, I noticed something on my XS downpipe this evening:

The flange on the end of the downpipe, is 3'' where it joins onto the decat section:

c3adf39e.jpg


But then the flange that it bolts to, leading into the rest of the system, is only 2.7'' across:

160cb055.jpg


So it gives an instant 0.3'' step reduction in the system.

THe pipe going into the flanges on each side is genuine 3'', but for some reason the second flange has a smaller hole causing a restriction to flow.

To get around this I'm going to get my dremel out and port out the smaller flange until it matches the bigger flange. Probably a horrible job, but I think it'll be worth it.

Also worth mentioning that the holes in the flanges are slotted too, so any misalignment when joining them together could also cause a nice stepped restriction.

Seems a waste to sppend all that money and not fix a few little issues like that, shame XS didn't address these issues though.
 
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