Worn out clutch after 4k miles/1 year?!

Psychoscot

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Took my 1.4 manual A4 Avant in for an oil change this morning. I mentioned that 1st was a bit chunky to select at times, and they are now suggesting it needs a new clutch at £1700 - I find it hard to believe I could ruin a clutch in 4k miles! Waiting for a callback...

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Took my 1.4 manual A4 Avant in for an oil change this morning. I mentioned that 1st was a bit chunky to select at times, and they are now suggesting it needs a new clutch at £1700 - I find it hard to believe I could ruin a clutch in 4k miles! Waiting for a callback...

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I would think they don't actually know what's causing the chunky gear selection so they're having a 'educated' guess. Personally I would leave it if you can live with it. Perhaps when the weather warms up it might improve...
 
So, they drove it from the car park to the workshop to change the oil. Commented that the biting point is a bit high, which probably means the clutch is worn out and needs replacing. Without looking at it. So, I'm no mechanic, but this seems a bit of a stretch. Do you think I'm good to just ignore it? Have attached a pic of what it says on the "Visual Health Check" sheet. They did say I could contact Audi CS and get them to authorize an inspection of the clutch - the guidelines for a warranty replacement of clutch is it is only if less than 6 months old/6000 miles, whichever is shorter.
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But if the biting point is high that means the clutch will have the opposite effect upon selecting 1st gear that you are experiencing. A clutch that drags with a low bite point would cause difficulties in selecting or changing gears...
 
As I said, I'm no mechanic. Basically, sometimes the box feels "reluctant" to engage 1st. Either on startup, or less often on change down. Doesn't happen on any other changes. Just sometimes you have to use a bit more force than I'm comfortable with to engage 1st. What would a high biting point point to?

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Are you always making sure you are almost stopped?
Most cars have protection built in that makes it hard to put it into 1st while moving, so you can't inadvertently put it in first while travelling at speed which would cause a lot of damage

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On a downshift it's generally <8mph, but not necessarily almost stopped. It gets really grumbly at under 8mph in 2nd...

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Not telling you how to drive....but at that point I'd have the clutch down ready to stop, but only actually change to first when stopped in prep for setting off again. My driving instructor always told you you couldn't drive in first and it was only for setting off! 13years later I still stick to that

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I get it, but that doesn't work in London stop start traffic. I've mentioned this on other threads - my previous A3 was far happier in 2nd at low speed than the A4 is - it really struggles and feels like it's going to stall below 8mph - dropping that low doesn't mean you're going to stop...

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I had this (along with every other mechanical failure know to man) in an Alfa Romeo. I think it was the clutch slave (might have been master) cylinder, fixed under warranty. The reliability of the 159 was appalling but I got to know much more of how a car works with that car than any other.
 
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I also had a similar issue in a Sportage. Turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder. It was right up on the bulk head. It’s worth having both the slave and master cylinders checked including other leaks in the system. It also explains the hesitation. New slave cylinder and issue resolved. This route would negate having to take the engine out.
 
Damn... I was tempted to ignore it and put it down to dealerships chasing money because of the WLTP delays... Now I'm not so sure...

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