Yeh id probably purchase a new hex an C clip just in case mines worn, insert the new one untill i get it booked into garage for complete swap out to 100mm.
Thanks
Worn oil pump hex drive shaft on MY09 2.0 TDI
- Thread starter BenC00
- Start date
Yeh id probably purchase a new hex an C clip just in case mines worn, insert the new one untill i get it booked into garage for complete swap out to 100mm.
Thanks
Is there anywhere document of what engines are affected and years?
2.0 CFFB 2010 ?
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2.0 CFFB 2010 ?
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If I'm not mistaken, the early CR engines use a 77mm key, later changed (I think 2010 onwards) to a 100mm key.
The change DOES NOT fix the problem, just prolongs it appearing in the first place as there is more contact surface area with the 100mm key.
And yes that engine will be affected.
I have a 2009 model on 90000 miles so likely it’s got the old 77mm key.
I know this doesn’t fully solve the problem as it needs the kmb kit to solve the problem but does anyone know if I could just install a new 100mm key to my existing setup or don’t they fit? If this is possible then I’d just do this as then there’s an extra 23mm of contact that hasn’t been rounded off before in the balance shaft so it would last far longer than what I will have the car for.
I know this doesn’t fully solve the problem as it needs the kmb kit to solve the problem but does anyone know if I could just install a new 100mm key to my existing setup or don’t they fit? If this is possible then I’d just do this as then there’s an extra 23mm of contact that hasn’t been rounded off before in the balance shaft so it would last far longer than what I will have the car for.
IIRC the new 77mm hex keys are solid, so for your needs id just replace it with one of those as a temporary measure. That's what I did before installing the new kit (100mm). I doubt the 100mm would fit straight into the original.
I’m going to get some quotes for the kmb kit fitting, if there’s a big difference in price between fitting that and just changing the key then I would just change the key but I would buy a 100mm key and a new 77mm key and tell them to try the 100mm one first.
I’m guessing it probably doesn’t fit though or I’m assuming a lot of people would have already done it.
I didn’t think it would if I were honest.
Mine is 2009, I thought they didn’t change until 2010?
Changed earlier than that , trouble is Audi can't always tell you , absolute sure way is to drop sump , circlip off and withdraw key .
Well I’ve just messaged kmb to ask if there’s anyway of finding out without removing the sump.
I’ve just had the car serviced and timing belt changed 3 days ago so that would have been the ideal time to take the sump off and find out really wouldn’t it.
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I think you're right on your other reply. I haven't bought it yet but looking into the codes them BMN is for the 170 between 2006 and 2007 and from that other link the B codes aren't affected on the A3
Well... ***... Seems there's a LOT of misinformation and misunderstanding. Wish I would have found this thread a few weeks ago.
I thought I had done my homework and was under the impression that this was not an issue on the cbbb motors and purchased a used 08 A3 with 99k mi. Now it seems I've got a bit of an extra expense to sort out.
To make sure I'm understanding the issues:
Also, if anyone has recommendations for part kit suppliers in the EU let me know!
I thought I had done my homework and was under the impression that this was not an issue on the cbbb motors and purchased a used 08 A3 with 99k mi. Now it seems I've got a bit of an extra expense to sort out.
To make sure I'm understanding the issues:
- There's a poorly matched insert (keyway) in the balance shaft which will eventually cause wear (mostly on the drive key)
- When this fails the oil pump will go unpowered leaving the motor (and turbo) w/oil
- There aren't any warnings of wear before failure (oil light turns once the pump has stopped)
- The contact area (length) of the insert & drive key as well as the strength of the drive key accelerate the wear
- Solid (stronger) 77mm drive keys are available but this only slows the issue down (and the wear could occur in the keyway)
- The official fix was to lengthen to contact area (23mm longer) and strengthen the drive key (and this was official in early 2010 - after my car was built)
- Spin the roulette wheel every mile and hope I'm quick enough to shut off the motor when the oil light flashes (before still needing to do one of the following, if I managed to avoid serious damage)
- Cheaply/quickly replace the drive key (but, even with a stronger one, wear and failure could not be ruled out - and even if I did this regularly the keyway could wear to failure)
- Balance shaft delete (not ideal and costly)
- New (post 2010) balance shaft and 100mm drive key (OEM prices - does not fix fit issue which could still lead to wear and failure[?])
- Aftermarket balance shaft with better fit and stronger drive key (need to find a supplier in the EU especially if return of replaced parts is requested)
Also, if anyone has recommendations for part kit suppliers in the EU let me know!
The low oil pressure warning system is a farce too as it doesn't operate below 2000 rpm.
Kit 10 .
Kit 10 .
Oil Pumps from KMB Parts Direct specialist Oil pump replacement parts, Audi 2.0tdi, VW 2.0tdi, engines, support, help, advice, Sheffield, UK, England.
KMB Parts Direct is a specialist in providing Oil pump replacement parts for Audi 2.0tdi and VW 2.0tdi engines in particular. Please visit our website for more details.
www.kmbpartsdirect.co.uk
Yeah, I'm not counting no that as a realistic option. Thanks for posting the link / info for Kit 10 (I had only seen kit 9 mentioned before).
You don't happen to know who in Poland sells those unbalanced kits? Would be a bit easier to order/ship within the EU (I'm in Finland).
You don't happen to know who in Poland sells those unbalanced kits? Would be a bit easier to order/ship within the EU (I'm in Finland).
TMA Serwis - Regeneracja pomp olejowych
Regeneracja pomp olejowych samochodów wyprodukowanych pomiędzy 2004r, a 2016r marki Audi, VW, Skoda, Seat, Dodge, Mitsubishi 2.0 TDI 140, 170 KM
They do a nice oversizing .
Does anyone know if changing the balance shaft has anything to do with the coolant pump? I’m guessing not but obviously I’ve got no idea.
What happened was the guy at KMB supplied me with the wrong balance shaft but it does fit so the garage changed it for me and the car was running fine. I took the old balance shaft back to the guy at KMB and he told me that the one they had fitted to the car that he had given me was the wrong one. He gave me the right one but the garage didn’t have time to change it over again that day so I drove it about a mile home and it sat there for another 2 week until it was back in the garage again for it to be changed again.
I started the car to go to the garage and it had the emissions light on, I had not used the car since the balance shaft was changed as the guy at kmb said it would cause damage eventually. The balance shaft was changed again for the second time and no emissions light. About 2 mile later it’s come on again and the code that comes up says it’s a Coolant pump B code.
Is this a coincidence or is something to do with what theyve done when changing the balance shaft?
What happened was the guy at KMB supplied me with the wrong balance shaft but it does fit so the garage changed it for me and the car was running fine. I took the old balance shaft back to the guy at KMB and he told me that the one they had fitted to the car that he had given me was the wrong one. He gave me the right one but the garage didn’t have time to change it over again that day so I drove it about a mile home and it sat there for another 2 week until it was back in the garage again for it to be changed again.
I started the car to go to the garage and it had the emissions light on, I had not used the car since the balance shaft was changed as the guy at kmb said it would cause damage eventually. The balance shaft was changed again for the second time and no emissions light. About 2 mile later it’s come on again and the code that comes up says it’s a Coolant pump B code.
Is this a coincidence or is something to do with what theyve done when changing the balance shaft?
