Will this work? - LED DRL indicators

Genius

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I have already change the DRL bulbs on my facelift 8P to LED bulbs and its a huge improvement but now I'm really wanting to extend the length of the DRL to fill the whole of that section of the lens basically I want to change:

WWpkL.jpg


I had the car parked with hazards on and realised the indicator bulb fills that section albeit with orange light but it gave me the idea and now the DRLs look wrong not filling the whole space, so I have a couple of ideas on how to do this.

First was to just swap the indicator bulbs with white LEDs then splice into the DRL circuit and then move the indicators into the fog light enclosures (but maybe this isn't legal) so need thinking about.

Them I discovered these bulbs which could be another option and the answer I am looking for:

https://www.auto-lighting.co.uk/pro...9yaqljy4RhZEw7-d_VN6-2Gj-89nQa6BoC4WUQAvD_BwE

Has anyone used these, and done this mod, seems like such an obvious upgrade to the standard headlights and IMO would look so much better and more modern than the xenons with the individual LEDs dotted across the top
 
Found the bulbs even cheaper on eBay £13 for a set so reckon its worth a punt, need to work out what bulb fitment is for the indicator on these facelift lights and I'll get some ordered and have a go
 
Getting it working electrically is easy, making it pretty is the difficulty
 
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Seem to have hit a really annoying roadblock with this mod...

Can't find anywhere that does a PSY24W switchback bulb
 
Anyone know what the canbus system actually looks for in a bulb?

I just been thinking got some old PS19W bulbs which look to have the same connection as the psy24w so was thinking if I butcher the bulbs I can solder the wires from a set of switchbacks with a different bulb connection in to my butchered PS19W base then connect that to the bulb holder in the car would it work?

This is what the bulbs I'm looking at look like so it would literally be a case of cutting the current bulb holder end off and soldering into the one I made off the old bulbs, if this would work of course :\

z7pid.jpg
 
Anyone know what the canbus system actually looks for in a bulb?

I just been thinking got some old PS19W bulbs which look to have the same connection as the psy24w so was thinking if I butcher the bulbs I can solder the wires from a set of switchbacks with a different bulb connection in to my butchered PS19W base then connect that to the bulb holder in the car would it work?

This is what the bulbs I'm looking at look like so it would literally be a case of cutting the current bulb holder end off and soldering into the one I made off the old bulbs, if this would work of course :\

z7pid.jpg
Why don't you get in contact with the lightsman @t8ups and see if he can supply your bulbs or are you wanting to do it on the cheap cheap.
I have an old light updated kind with no plastic cover but everything else working if your wanting a cheap starting point . Pm if u want
 
I didn't actually know there was a go-to light guy, but also cheap is good, and I do quite enjoy it if I can find a solution by making or adapting something
 
I noticed they are using the same resistor for a 21w and a 27w bulb so guess it's got to be fine for a 24w... Just got to see if I can cannibalise the old bulbs to make a connector will check that tomorrow and if it works will get them ordered
 
I noticed they are using the same resistor for a 21w and a 27w bulb so guess it's got to be fine for a 24w... Just got to see if I can cannibalise the old bulbs to make a connector will check that tomorrow and if it works will get them ordered
I mind when i added resistors to my drl lights what a heat they threw out and even tho i had no faults all they needed to do was melt a wire and well god knows what could have happened . Then i found the lightman who coded his ones in for me and then well lets say i was a happy chappy .
 
The lights come with the resistors I'm not adding any.

For an LED to not throw a bulb out error on the DIS it needs some kind of resistor as the led pulls a much lower current
 
The lights come with the resistors I'm not adding any. For an LED to not throw a bulb out error on the DIS it needs some kind of resistor as the led pulls a much lower current
Ok dokie ,
 
Take out the OEM bulb and measure it's resistance. The resistance delta between your bulb and led is the resistor you need to make up the overall resistance of connected in series.


I think
 
Take out the OEM bulb and measure it's resistance. The resistance delta between your bulb and led is the resistor you need to make up the overall resistance of connected in series


I think

Incorrect. Measure the current drawn by your LED, it's a semi conductor so you can't just use an ohm meter across it to measure the impedance. Once you know the current draw and your applied voltage, use this formula to calculate the equivalent impedance:

Resistance = Voltage / Current

Then measure the resistance of the halogen bulb.

Use the parallel resistance calculation formula below r2 to get the value of your needed resistor

FormulaResistorParallel11


R2 = the load resistor you need to wire in
R1 is the calculated equivalent resistance of the led bulv
RTotal = the resistance of your halogen bulb

Be sure to dissipate th heat from your resistor using steel wool hanging out of the plastic housing. Calculate the wattage of the resistor using W = V^2/R
 
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If you look at the kit in the photo above it comes with the resistor inline and its already inside its own heatsink
 
Bulb checks are done when the lights are off which is why when you swap out the number plate lights with leds they flash when the lights are off. I'm assuming this is the same, if so stick a 12 volt relay on with a bulb holder and the origanal lamp in or a resistor. When your lights are off the car will see the old bulb so no error, apply 12 volts and the relay will switch to your leds and bulb check isn't active.

Screenshot 20180103 210032
 
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Looking forward to finding out the outcome off this post as it could lead to greater things
 
Incorrect. Measure the current drawn by your LED, it's a semi conductor so you can't just use an ohm meter across it to measure the impedance. Once you know the current draw and your applied voltage, use this formula to calculate the equivalent impedance:

Resistance = Voltage / Current

Then measure the resistance of the halogen bulb.

Use the parallel resistance calculation formula below r2 to get the value of your needed resistor

View attachment 164798

R2 = the load resistor you need to wire in
R1 is the calculated equivalent resistance of the led bulv
RTotal = the resistance of your halogen bulb

Be sure to dissipate th heat from your resistor using steel wool hanging out of the plastic housing. Calculate the wattage of the resistor using W = V^2/R
Learn something every day :)
 
Bulb checks are done when the lights are off which is why when you swap out the number plate lights with leds they flash when the lights are off. I'm assuming this is the same, if so stick a 12 volt relay on with a bulb holder and the origanal lamp in or a resistor. When your lights are off the car will see the old bulb so no error, apply 12 volts and the relay will switch to your leds and bulb check isn't active.

View attachment 164804
Now will nothing heat up anymore than normal with power . Me no electric manny just curious
 
No expert here mate found this stuff googling, the old lamp will not heat up because it get a really small pulse when the lights are off to check the bulb is there which is why they don't light up.

If you tried to get around the bulb error by sticking a resistor inline with the led then I imagine that would heat up.
 
Kit has arrived today actually seems really good quality, but I'm busy this weekend so it's gonna be end of next week before I can have a proper play and get fitting worked out
 
Not tried yet, hopefully tomorrow I will be giving it a go so long as the weather holds out