Which Rods - S3 BAM

[Ryan_W]

Hi guys,

I'm off to America next week and I'm looking to buy a few things over there to save me some money on shipping etc.

I want to get a set of rods, but I'm not sure if there's any other options to the Integrated Engineering 19mm kit?

Also, what else would you advise me to get whilst over there? Anything which is vastly cheaper over there compared to here?

Cheers,

Ryan

 

[Sam_]

I'm pretty sure the BAM uses 20mm wrist pin?

Scat are cheap in the states and are pretty widely used. Could get yourself a set of Wiseco pistons cheap too. In fact I bought both when I was working there a few years back for a Peugeot 2.0 16V Turbo engine I was building.

 

[Ryan_W]

Was it 19mm on the early S3's and 20mm on the later ones?

Are pistons really needed? I'm looking for around 350-450bhp in the end. I thought the OEM units were good for up to 500bhp?

81mm bore isn't it?

Cheers,

Ryan

 

[aragorn]

All S3's are 20mm afaik.

I got these:

From here:

Connecting Rods - Brute Connecting Rods - VW/Audi Brute 144mm Forged I-beam Connecting Rod Set. Forced Pin Oiling Rifle Dr

I specifically bought those over the others as they're rifle drilled, and irrespective of how people say non-rifle drilled ones are fine, i didnt like the idea of reducing the lubrication of an engine known for oil issues.

They also fit the AEB just fine, whereas the IE ones dont, although that wont be an issue for you with your BAM engine.

 

[Sam_]

All I know is the BAM has 20mm, not sure on the earlier ones but you're probably right.

I'm not sure on pistons. I guess if you're not going too crazy then they'll be fine. I believe the standard pistons are forged Mahles.

There are stroker kits available that use the 2.0 TFSI cranks and custom rods etc. Might be something I look into down the line.

Those rods above look nice and sturdy!

 

[<tuffty/>]

20mm pins in S3's (APY, AMK, BAM)

I use std pistons (forged and made by Mahle) in mine currently at the 370bhp mark but 400bhp once sorted (I hope). If you are considering new pistons though I would go for 82.5mm and get the block rebored, can't see the point in putting nice new pistons in a worn (if only slightly) block... 82.5mm will get you to nearly 1.9ltr

<tuffty/>

 

[aragorn]

Also, i retained the original pistons, but in reality if i had a bit more money available i feel now i should have rebored. My block is slightly lipped, undoubtedly oval and the pistons are likely worn too. I do have lower power goals than you however.

Given your wanting big power, i wouldnt feel happy suggesting you try to run 450hp on oval bores and worn OE pistons.

If you can afford it, either do a 0.5mm overbore and buy new OEM +0.5mm pistons, or (probably for the same money) go 82.5mm and fit some shiney aftermarket ones.

 

[s3dave]

Pistons are fine for that suggested power...

 

[aragorn]

If the bores are streight and true, unlipped and the pistons are still round, perhaps.

But you wont know that until the lid comes off...

 

[superkarl]

Could you explain riffle drilled?

 

[rossbrownlee]

Could you explain riffle drilled?

Believe they are basically a hole in the con rod which goe from the big end to the small end to provide lubrication directly to the gudgeon pin/small end contact surfaces.
The S3 as standard i believe has the oil jets that fire oil from the block up to the underside of the piston and I assume may be a hole there on top of the small end to let the oil into the mating surfaces.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Believe they are basically a hole in the con rod which goe from the big end to the small end to provide lubrication directly to the gudgeon pin/small end contact surfaces.
The S3 as standard i believe has the oil jets that fire oil from the block up to the underside of the piston and I assume may be a hole there on top of the small end to let the oil into the mating surfaces.

Yarp... OEM rods are also rifle drilled...

<tuffty/>

 

[aragorn]

As above, the OEM rods are drilled, which means VAG decided it was required. Manufacturers dont waste money when building engines, if something can be made cheaper with no ill effects it will be.

The engine has squirters, but they only open when the oil pressure is above 3 bar according to the workshop manual, meaning at low engine speeds with hot oil, theres very little lubrication making its way to the underside of the piston and its gudgeon pin, barring some splash from the crank.

Its my opinion that non-drilled rods is detrimental to the engines longevity, especially when used as a daily driver which is more likely to be sitting in traffic, driving around town etc, and as such i spent a little more and baught the Brute ones which come drilled.

 

[badger5]

I ran non-rifle drilled for many 100's of miles..
worst part which you can get, and mine did it from new was slight small end rattle, but over its life it never changed its note.

 

[superkarl]

Are the ie rods not rifle drilled?

 

[aragorn]

Not as standard. The provide an option for an extra $100, but at that point the brute ones are cheaper.

 

[Ryan_W]

Cheers gents!

I'll be getting the Brute rods after your input.

Just waiting to hear back from them.

Cheers

Ryan