Which Ignition Coils for tuned motor ?

Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
hahaha nice......the force is weak in you young padwan lol
how does it compare to a proper map?

It’s really good mate very impressed with it - feels like a map very smooth and pulls hard in the midrange just lacks the savage torque of my stage 2.


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Rob2k68

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Hi Rob, I don't have Facebook so do you know if there's another way to get hold of him ?

£35 for Plugs is good.

I’ll drop you a PM mate
 

lucaslfc

Registered User
Got me rs7 plugs 35quid delivered.(cheers @Rob2k68 ) other day just not had minute to fit them, so looks like a quick sat morning job
 

jungle650

Registered User
Got me rs7 plugs 35quid delivered.(cheers @Rob2k68 ) other day just not had minute to fit them, so looks like a quick sat morning job

@lucaslfc Based on my experience recently... You may find it significantly easier to remove the coil packs if the engine has a very small amount of warmth to it ( circa 5-10 mins / 50’ on the internal temp gauge ). Otherwise trying to remove the coil packs if they have never been changed or removed previously on a stone cold engine will be like trying to pull teeth. The rubber feet can also stick to the original spark plugs or pull away from top of the coil pack if you are not careful.

See Deutsche Auto parts vid on Youtube as an example!

Warming the engine a little reduces the suction and should eleviate the potential sticking problem. Once the packs have been removed leave the car to fully cool down before replacing the Spark plugs to avoid cross threading issues .

Enjoy the new RS7 NGK plugs, they make for a smooth and responsive drive.

All the best
Jungle
 

lucaslfc

Registered User
@lucaslfc Based on my experience recently... You may find it significantly easier to remove the coil packs if the engine has a very small amount of warmth to it ( circa 5-10 mins / 50’ on the internal temp gauge ). Otherwise trying to remove the coil packs if they have never been changed or removed previously on a stone cold engine will be like trying to pull teeth. The rubber feet can also stick to the original spark plugs or pull away from top of the coil pack if you are not careful.

See Deutsche Auto parts vid on Youtube as an example!

Warming the engine a little reduces the suction and should eleviate the potential sticking problem. Once the packs have been removed leave the car to fully cool down before replacing the Spark plugs to avoid cross threading issues .

Enjoy the new RS7 NGK plugs, they make for a smooth and responsive drive.

All the best
Jungle

thanks for that mate very informative and useful, only spark plugs i ever changed have been motocross or road bikes lol.
50degree oil temp is what i will do then mate, cheers!
 

Lovric Nikola Martin

Registered User
I am sad to say that the issue occured again today, under heavy acceleration. Dont know what to do now. I have not yet got the error code for this last occurance, because I dont have the OBD cable at home right now..
 
I am sad to say that the issue occured again today, under heavy acceleration. Dont know what to do now. I have not yet got the error code for this last occurance, because I dont have the OBD cable at home right now..

Edit: just reread the thread, suggest getting the obd11 so you can pinpoint which cylinder is misfiring and if its just misfiring or something else or additional. The tune might be pushing too much and not enough timing to fix.

Did you change the plugs only or the sparkplugs too? To me, it's 90% always the sparkplugs need to be colder.

When this happened, how did you know it happened again? Epc light?



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Lovric Nikola Martin

Registered User
Edit: just reread the thread, suggest getting the obd11 so you can pinpoint which cylinder is misfiring and if its just misfiring or something else or additional. The tune might be pushing too much and not enough timing to fix.

Did you change the plugs only or the sparkplugs too? To me, it's 90% always the sparkplugs need to be colder.

When this happened, how did you know it happened again? Epc light?



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I was planning on getting the OBD Eleven to check live feed cylinder data. Didnt do it yet. The first time this happened I was on original plugs and coils. At this time I had the VCDS available, so I could read the fault code which was cylinder misfire. What happend was, at heavy acceleration, just when it shifts, EPC light came on, and it disabled one of the cylinders. Car lost power, got jerky. I was close to home so drove carefully last kms. Turned off ignition, and turned on. Problem as gone. Directly drove a few kms with heavy acceleration. Everything normal.

As a precaution, I replaced both plugs (denso IRH-27) and coils (RS3-coils) Car has been running fine for two weeks, until yesterday when it happened again. Exact same scenario. It is cold outside (minus -10 Celsius) but both occurances I had been running the motor for 10-15 minutes so this should not have been the issue. I am waiting word from the tuner today. I hope he takes some kind of responability and not just dodges this. Luckily car runs just fine, but I do not make any heavy acceleration anymore until this is solved somehow.
 

Lovric Nikola Martin

Registered User
Update :

Tuner will load a different software tomorrow. It could be that this one was tweaked for cars with performance exhausts. We will see.
 

Stu2309

Registered User
Which sites have people ordered the RS7 plugs and RS3 Ignition coils from..

Do you guys have links to both please..

My car is going in for map at the end of the month and was thinking about changibg both after reading this..

Cheers

:rockwoot:
 

Lovric Nikola Martin

Registered User
Update :

Tuner will load a different software tomorrow. It could be that this one was tweaked for cars with performance exhausts. We will see.

Things have been working great, until today, when the EPC light came back again on my way to work :( I have no equipment to read fault codes, but I will check with tuner again and see what he says...)
 

MaxBoostMRC

Registered User
Who
Things have been working great, until today, when the EPC light came back again on my way to work :( I have no equipment to read fault codes, but I will check with tuner again and see what he says...)
Who has tuned the car out of interest? And did they run it on a dyno to make sure it’s all running safe and good?
 

Lovric Nikola Martin

Registered User
Who

Who has tuned the car out of interest? And did they run it on a dyno to make sure it’s all running safe and good?

It's a swedish tuner, you probably dont know about them, but they are proven good so no funny business there. Anyway, since this happened I have not been able to replicate the misfire. I have spoken to the tuner, who is investigating on his end. I have gotten OBDEleven and found out the misfire was on cylinder 2, so I wanted to see if happens on the same cylinder next time. Live data feed on the cylinders shows no faults. And like mentioned before plugs and coils are also replaced. Tuner mentioned knock sensor could be the issue, but I still need to replicate it for him to continue troubleshooting.

Things I have changed since last time it occured:

only run on premium 98 octane fuel (instead of 95 octane as I did before)
exhaust flaps are now back to normal mode, instead of permanently open
switched to BMC air filter
 

MaxBoostMRC

Registered User
If it was knock changing to better fuel would have solved it. And like you said you have not had it happen since you changed fuel. I only use shell V-Power which is 99ron.
 
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