What's Causing Excessive Fuel Consumption Following Repairs ?

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Seeker_UK

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It's just one damn thing after another. :mad:

Last week, I got the cracked ATF cooler fixed - The rad was replaced, fluids replaced gearbox flushed etc etc.

I put 4 new tyres on it and then filled up with diesel - to give it a treat I added some Miller's Diesel Ecomax.

Now it's drinking diesel like it's going out of fashion. Before the repair, I was getting about 100 miles out of the first quarter of the tank, this time I'm getting 70 which equates to about 20mpg. Having just sunk a large amount of money, I'll be damned if I'm going to sink much more into it.

What should I be looking at this time.

SIgh.
 
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well it won't drop that much from cold weather alone you're right - but on the bright side it's not as big a drop as you think as if the cold equates to like 2-3mpg drop then uve only lost 5mpg from something else... how does the exhaust sound? not blowing at all is it?
 
No, everything seems OK, starts on the button, quiet (in fact quite muted since I got it back), even idle.

I think it's ******** and frankly, I just can't be doing with wasting any more money on the damn thing.
 
Any chance they've knocked anything whilst doing it? A fuel line?
 
white.akita said:
Get the codes read, or if you cant be bothered like you said just sell it.
Click to expand...

Taking your advice, I got the codes read. Nada, apart from an intermittent fault on the needle lift sensor. The mechanic said that it wasn't likely to be a cause of the problem - the biggies like coolant and MAF were OK. Also, no apparent leaks.

Currently just squeezed 145 miles out of half a tank (normally get 200)

Curiouser & curiouser.
 
Needle lift sensor will affect the Mpg and the engine wont run at it's full potential either !
 
Deffo needle lift.
When mine went the car woudl just stop running. Just die mid drive.
 
OK but reading some other posts talking needle lift sensor problems and they talk about poor starting and rough idle and loss of power, none of which I seem to be experiencing.

I better book it in to get it fixed, hopefully before Xmas.
 
Any chance it's had the loom damaged? As it's a very fine wire on the needle sensor.
I did put a how2 on here on how to replace it.
 
white.akita said:
how much have you actually spent trying to fix this problem ?
Click to expand...

Nothing yet but that's not the point.

Thank you for your contributions to my thread but I am not spending any more money on it. It's going - it is a nail and I'm cutting my losses before things get even more expensive.
 
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What exactly has been wrong with it? From your first post you've fitted a new transmission oil cooler and a radiator, but surely the fluid changes and tyres are service items and not really the cars fault?

Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk
 
Since I bought it:

Car - £6000
New cambelt, pump, thermostat, tensioners - £600
Service, ATF fluid change - £350
Respray for front wing after removing front pulled paint off - £150
Radiator, fluids etc - £650
4 new tyres - £400
Various bits and bobs to replace broken trim etc - £30

Diagnose & repair current problem - £300+ for sure.

I know cars cost money but of all the cars I have had (and I have had a few, trust me), I have NEVER spent that much in 6 months on one, even the older ones. Even if I discount the wear and tear items, it's still £1400.

One can argue that for the sake of £300+ it'll all be sorted but I just don't trust it any more.

Thanks for all your help over the last 6 months but I don't want the worry. Owning a car shouldn't be a worry so I've got something more boring but has a 12 month warranty with it.

I will be coming back to Audi - the A6 I had before the A4 was fantastic so I'm going to save up for a 2.7 or 3.0 which might be less troublesome.
 
Isnt all of that wear and tear apart from the front wing repaint?
The car is 9 years old and guessing has seen a few miles.
I'd say youve put in the effort to get the main things right (A lot of people dont) and have 1 more hurdle to jump
But its your call at the end of the day as to where to draw the line
 
Just thread carefully, just because they are newer does not mean they give less problems. I had a 56 reg a6 3.0 tdi quattro that needed 5 injectors at a cost of 900 quid 2nd hand. You need an older car (1.9 tdi in special) if you want it to be reliable but we all want new/modern cars ! Me personaly , i would not buy any car after 2004- waay to complicated and riddled with electronic problems. On the other hand i do work on my cars and i often buy them as spares or repairs ! So far i bought my allroad for £2300 last year, it needed work, tax and mot. Needed 2 track rod ends, 2 cv joints, front brake pads, rear brake pads and discs, rear caliper(seized), 2 front lower susp. arms (genuine from dealer £300), 2 drop links, 4 new top susp. arms and few more bits and bobs. Few weeks ago it dropped a valve and the engine got damaged- worn cam syndrome ! 700 quid in parts later and it's runing better as new... Who's to blame Me as a mechanic knowing that i have a loud engine and it needs an overhaul or the car because it broke ? It gave me plenty warning signs... Irony of the fate is that i ordered new set of Kolbensmidth cams an lifters a few days before and sold 2 good working engines just days before that ! I do in excess of 40k a year and i use the car primarely for towing- which it does admirably so when it breaks then it gets fixed- simples ! They 're just mere machines really, you can keep them going for a very long time- till rust set's in !!!!
 
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