What have you done today?

Stuart B

Registered User
the keys are flat with hooks, they are a quid from ebay, you really need 4 of them not two.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC5-132-A...hash=item2568a034f5:m:mmUa6rXubrhgLSruX2CG--Q

there is a trick to it (assuming the catches have not been broken in the double din frame) you locate them in a certain distance and action the spring clip to withdraw the radio. its not like the Ford or Sony ones where you essentially ram them in and twist, pull, yank the radio out.
 

Jxly

Registered User
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The bit that's broken off is in the hole. How the f**k do I get to it?!?! Can't get radio out, no keys.


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Tj 0785

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
If it's in the that hole does tham mean it's just sat on the radio cage ? Can you not get something long in and slide it out be cause if you can't and have to get the radio cage out it's a glove box off and the driver side dash out and even then you will need radio keys. If you can't get keys try a metal nail file or similar
 

Jxly

Registered User
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Tried a screwdriver with blu tac and it worked but it fell off and now I can't see it. Currently taking glove box off. How do I take this panel off?
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Tj 0785

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Removing that is no 5 minute job.To get the centre console of there to screws hidden on each side some behind the storage compartment at the bottom some behind the stereo and behind the heating controls . There's 3 screws in the glove box and some underneath and on the side then you'd have to do the same on driver side disconnecting the light switch odbll port. But I'd try fishing it out before going thru all that
 

Tj 0785

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Can you actually see the piece? You don't want to strip it out and then it's not fixable. If you can see it get a plastic coat hanger or similar put super glue or tape on the end to see if it will grip on it
 

Jxly

Registered User
Removing that is no 5 minute job.To get the centre console of there to screws hidden on each side some behind the storage compartment at the bottom some behind the stereo and behind the heating controls . There's 3 screws in the glove box and some underneath and on the side then you'd have to do the same on driver side disconnecting the light switch odbll port. But I'd try fishing it out before going thru all that

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Result!! It took 5 mins. Ripped glove box off and stuck my hand in, it's very sharp in there...



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Jxly

Registered User
At least you didn't have to remove the whole central console

Now to put it back together. The bit fit perfect, wasn't broken at all. Cup holder working properly. Who was it that told me to spend £30 on eBay?


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Jxly

Registered User
Now I'm going to repair my wiper wash. Low power because there is a leak in the pipes.


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DieselPhill

Registered User
So yesterday was a day for a little bit of tinkering which rapidly got out of hand. Discovered a radiator leak just early enough to grab a replacement from Euro Car Parts before they closed. Five hours later I finally finished, here are a couple of photos:

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Luckily caught this in time to get it fixed before remapping on Tuesday!

Back to the original reasoning for yesterday's tinkering... can anyone suggest a reason for the rear wiper not working? Took the motor out and connected it to my friend's Golf and it works just fine, suggesting wiring or stalk, just wondering if anyone has previous experience?


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Jxly

Registered User
So yesterday was a day for a little bit of tinkering which rapidly got out of hand. Discovered a radiator leak just early enough to grab a replacement from Euro Car Parts before they closed. Five hours later I finally finished, here are a couple of photos:

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Luckily caught this in time to get it fixed before remapping on Tuesday!

Back to the original reasoning for yesterday's tinkering... can anyone suggest a reason for the rear wiper not working? Took the motor out and connected it to my friend's Golf and it works just fine, suggesting wiring or stalk, just wondering if anyone has previous experience?


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Mine isn't working either, haven't had a chance to look at it. Fuse is fine, that's all I know. Everything else on the stalk works.


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DieselPhill

Registered User
Same for me, the rest of the stalk is fine. The same fuse covers all wiper systems so it isn't that. I'm guessing either a fault with the stalk just on the rear wipe (rear wash still works) or a wiring fault somewhere in the car.
 

Jxly

Registered User
Same for me, the rest of the stalk is fine. The same fuse covers all wiper systems so it isn't that. I'm guessing either a fault with the stalk just on the rear wipe (rear wash still works) or a wiring fault somewhere in the car.

Mine could easily be the motor, how could I check without another one?


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<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Can we keep this thread clear of questions and problems please?

Its supposed to be a light hearted thread about random stuff 'you have done today' (see quote from first post below)

So I only just spotted this thread in the B5 section, and was wondering why we don't have one?

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/163779-what-have-you-done-today.html

So what have you been upto on your car no matter how big or small, post it up. Saves you creating a new thread just for washing your car!

If you have a problem or issue you wish to get answers for then please start a thread of your own...

<tuffty/>
 

Dohcwp

Setting the Standard
Got my hands on the lowering springs i have been chasing from a golf 4 GTI-R

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In SA VW made a limited edition golf 4 back in 2004 called a GTI-R (it was kind of like a poor mans R32, it looked like an R32 but it was just a 132kw AUQ 1.8T and had 312mm brakes) they made about 250 in silver and black and they were about 10-15mm lower than stock mk 4 gti's.

since the roads in SA are so very ****** i've decided this will be the best compromise betweeen ride height and comfort for me.
 
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StaceyS3

Registered User
Spent some time making a Jig to make narrow angle cuts easier.

 

Jxly

Registered User
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Subframe coming out...what a mess!! New shocks needed too I guess ☹️


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Jxly

Registered User
Was MOT'd 2 weeks before I bought it in October, I suspect it was a friend of a friend kind of MOT... also to add to the problems, I have a fuel leak somewhere underneath and the clutch master cylinder needs changed. I have all the luck
 

Stuart B

Registered User
the rear suspension shocks are only an advisory unless they were leaking, but the rotten subframe bit is a little iffy isn't it? was there anything in the MOT history for that?

I got a new set of Monroe shocks from Amazon for £60 a pair - unless you are buying posh sporty suspension
 

Jxly

Registered User
the rear suspension shocks are only an advisory unless they were leaking, but the rotten subframe bit is a little iffy isn't it? was there anything in the MOT history for that?

I got a new set of Monroe shocks from Amazon for £60 a pair - unless you are buying posh sporty suspension

They aren't leaking, just the casing that's ******. Still going to get new ones. I'm an amazon guy myself, no money to splash on big brands. The subframe though...what a mess, it's worse on the other side of it. The whole lot is out now, putting it back together tomorrow and hopefully driving it home. Hoping it gets rid of the gearstick judder that has just started on it. New clutch master cylinder next week too, £35 from autoparts.


A3 8L 1.8T QUATTRO
 

Stuart B

Registered User
yeah my rear shocks passed 2 MOTs looking like yours, it is easy enough to change them, I only changed mine because I had a broken spring too.

I actually managed to get to the top bolt of the struts without removing the wheel arch liners, just expect some bruises and scrapes. the near side could not be undone with a socket you need a ring spanner on that side as something else gets in the way.

and you have to tighten the struts bottom bolt up essentially as tight as you can.
 

Jxly

Registered User
yeah my rear shocks passed 2 MOTs looking like yours, it is easy enough to change them, I only changed mine because I had a broken spring too.

I actually managed to get to the top bolt of the struts without removing the wheel arch liners, just expect some bruises and scrapes. the near side could not be undone with a socket you need a ring spanner on that side as something else gets in the way.

and you have to tighten the struts bottom bolt up essentially as tight as you can.

Done shocks before on previous cars, had a 1.6 and a 1.9tdi quattro before and a few mk4 golfs. Had to grind off top bolts on front of golf before, nightmare. Hopefully I'll be posting tomorrow with good news...no knocking and hopefully no vibrating gearstick either. Then it's just clutch master cylinder and tyres and my baby should be back to good standard. I've been holding off on changing tyres as I'm trying to source some decent alloys.


A3 8L 1.8T QUATTRO
 

Ash-S3

Registered User
I finished my project custom bottom whell
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It was more or less a joke, experiment how it will looks. Well in the end I was pleasantly surprised with the product so I decided to install it in the car
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hats off wow that looks awesome!! please can you do a DIY on this hahah
top work!
 

Andrew@A.L.D

May add NOS to 600+bhp S3.
A few things

1st picture..Made a batter box that will placed behind the bumper

2nd...Fit a Supercharger to a 1.8T block and yes this is what I'm doing to the S3, A twin charge set up to help spool the HTA35, so should see 1 bar of boost at 1800/2000rpms and 600bhp so load more torque i hope.

3rd Porting a 2.5 Ford ST/Volvo head

4th After 14 years my old bandsaw died so got myself a new one.. Hope this one last another 14 years
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DieselPhill

Registered User
(Last Tuesday...) Got my A3 back from Moreton Garage ( http://www.moretongaragechirk.co.uk ) who are a Pendle Performance agent and my god what a difference! They don't have a rolling-road so no print outs but a live map was done on the road. Rough figures based on other 1.9TDi 8Ls done by Pendle (at locations with a rolling-road) are 168bhp. Regardless of numbers its much quicker and more responsive, the guys at Moreton were dead friendly and helpful, even giving me advice on how to do a clutch change, as the remap has started caused it to start slipping, which I expected after 195k!

Thoroughly recommend them if they're local to you as this remap set me back a little under £300 and has improved the car no-end. Failing that see you local Pendle agent!

Now to try and find a how-to on a 1.9TDi Quattro clutch... :fearful:
 

Stuart B

Registered User
well it clearly has a Mercedes Kompressor logo on it, its an interesting project I was actually hoping you were including a hybrid turbo, with electric motor spin up for zero lag.
Is a supercharger less torque than a turbo? will it be gentler on the connecting rods because it is smoother?
 

Andrew@A.L.D

May add NOS to 600+bhp S3.
well it clearly has a Mercedes Kompressor logo on it, its an interesting project I was actually hoping you were including a hybrid turbo, with electric motor spin up for zero lag.
Is a supercharger less torque than a turbo? will it be gentler on the connecting rods because it is smoother?

Mercedes magnetic clutch

Lol its not a NASA space mission andrew, you dont need to hide it from the russians

I just don't want anyone to copy what I'm doing as i might be selling kits for S3 owners when done?

Aye... add the details to one of your build threads..

<tuffty/>

Im Lazy and don't come on here that often
 

superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
I just don't want anyone to copy what I'm doing as i might be selling kits for S3 owners when done?
Twin charging has been done before on these engines. And it's not a simple task to copy in terms of packaging




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Dohcwp

Setting the Standard
took the plunge on a passat w8 interior light, on my stock PFL interior light the door open switch is not working at all so its permanently on the door setting.

Couldnt find a grey W8 one (at a decent price, some really ridiculous prices on ebay) so i managed to get a beige one for $33 usd, a compromise i have to make unfortunately.

w8 interior light

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