Took the b7 on a little trip to drive something a bit quicker
Gt3 Rs for the day ,the thing defies logic and physics
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What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Took the b7 on a little trip to drive something a bit quicker
Gt3 Rs for the day ,the thing defies logic and physics
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Sun was out today so an ideal opportunity to give the old bus a bit of a clean, I've been a bit busy of late so it has been a bit neglected on the washing front for a fair few weeks.
Before that, another check under the bonnet revealed my nearside inner cv boot has torn and the outer has lost its clip, will need to order new parts tomorrow,no obvious signs of what is causing the shaking either, everything feels tight joint-wise, I'll have to dig further into it.
Ran a vcds scan and all clear so that's always a bonus, will need a pair of new tires shortly but I'm holding back to see what SCC comes back to me regarding my claim for pothole damage.
A few pics of a clean old bus .
It does clean up well for an old bus, almost worth keeping.
Before that, another check under the bonnet revealed my nearside inner cv boot has torn and the outer has lost its clip, will need to order new parts tomorrow,no obvious signs of what is causing the shaking either, everything feels tight joint-wise, I'll have to dig further into it.
Ran a vcds scan and all clear so that's always a bonus, will need a pair of new tires shortly but I'm holding back to see what SCC comes back to me regarding my claim for pothole damage.
A few pics of a clean old bus .
It does clean up well for an old bus, almost worth keeping.
The bus is looking great Rob, hard to believe the B7 platform is getting on for 20 years old now, still looks so fresh and hasn't aged one bitSun was out today so an ideal opportunity to give the old bus a bit of a clean, I've been a bit busy of late so it has been a bit neglected on the washing front for a fair few weeks.
Before that, another check under the bonnet revealed my nearside inner cv boot has torn and the outer has lost its clip, will need to order new parts tomorrow,no obvious signs of what is causing the shaking either, everything feels tight joint-wise, I'll have to dig further into it.
Ran a vcds scan and all clear so that's always a bonus, will need a pair of new tires shortly but I'm holding back to see what SCC comes back to me regarding my claim for pothole damage.
A few pics of a clean old bus .
It does clean up well for an old bus, almost worth keeping.
For me the B7 shape is just right, it has nicely proportioned curves and contours that just seamlessly blend in, none of this new age angular stuff.The bus is looking great Rob, hard to believe the B7 platform is getting on for 20 years old now, still looks so fresh and hasn't aged one bit
New cars are great any many love the new shapes and angry-looking grilles but for me they have lost the plot, and all just look the same ,maybe its an old guy thing..lol
The B7 platform feels very well constructed and for the most part, the parts used are very good , interior is very good, and puts much newer and more expensive models to shame.
You do not need to slam the doors shut and they have that reassuring clunk, quality.
I like to sit in a car seat, not on it like a stool, B7 Recaros and s-line seats are great, you feel part of the car and part of the experience, not perched on top of the seat swaying from side to side.
Progress is all fine and dandy but not for me, i'll stick with my B7 .
Yes, the B7, particularly the Avant S-Lines, still looks very elegant IMV. I think more so than the later models. It's surprising how many much newer cars want to blow you away at lights, in a way that they wouldn't do if it was an old Mazda or somethingThe bus is looking great Rob, hard to believe the B7 platform is getting on for 20 years old now, still looks so fresh and hasn't aged one bit
I always take that as a compliment and never rise to it - just a stately set off ha ha.
Drove to Barnsley today to pick up a mint condition set of B7 S4 Recaro's. Hopefully fitting tomorrow if the weather is decent. Will be selling the B6 S4 Recaro fronts and RS4 rear bench off cheap in the next week or so. Along with the S Line seats.
Sure its not a new Walls confection - an Ice Cream Audi.......Covered it in shaving foamView attachment 264834
Today I decided to try and get to the bottom of the really irritating shaking and vibration from the front end of the old bus.
The front nearside inner CV boot was split anyway so in need of attention, my local motor factor shop ordered me a Borg&Beck cv bootkit which I must say is very good quality and a perfect fit.
So off with the drive shaft and on closer inspection with the inner boot removed the tripod joint seems ok so with plenty of grease still in the joint so repacked it with new grease, and new boot on.
The outer cv joint was not so good despite the boot being ok and not leaking.
With the boot on there was a lot of movement and certainly worn, but when i removed the boot the inners were rattling around a lot and very little grease was to be seen.
Where the grease went is a mystery as the boot wasnt damaged so an odd one really but the joint is worn to the point it needs replacing.
I suspect this is the source of my issues to be honest, I'd discounted the outer CV to a point as the culprit with the inner to blame.
Just to be 100% , I cleaned it up, repacked it with grease and a new boot, refitted the shaft and a test drive later the symptoms were very minimal, safe to say that the outer is the problem.
Probably best to order a pair of complete shafts now rather than just doing the outers, just need to find some decent quality items at a sensible price.
Decided against J&R as they seem to be very poor-quality complete units with a lot of less-than-idea comments across many brands of cars etc.
So a good day in some ways, at least I've found the point of failure, maybe the pothole incident didn't help the joint as the problem ha sonly really come to a head since that crunch.
time for tea and biscuits now.
The front nearside inner CV boot was split anyway so in need of attention, my local motor factor shop ordered me a Borg&Beck cv bootkit which I must say is very good quality and a perfect fit.
So off with the drive shaft and on closer inspection with the inner boot removed the tripod joint seems ok so with plenty of grease still in the joint so repacked it with new grease, and new boot on.
The outer cv joint was not so good despite the boot being ok and not leaking.
With the boot on there was a lot of movement and certainly worn, but when i removed the boot the inners were rattling around a lot and very little grease was to be seen.
Where the grease went is a mystery as the boot wasnt damaged so an odd one really but the joint is worn to the point it needs replacing.
I suspect this is the source of my issues to be honest, I'd discounted the outer CV to a point as the culprit with the inner to blame.
Just to be 100% , I cleaned it up, repacked it with grease and a new boot, refitted the shaft and a test drive later the symptoms were very minimal, safe to say that the outer is the problem.
Probably best to order a pair of complete shafts now rather than just doing the outers, just need to find some decent quality items at a sensible price.
Decided against J&R as they seem to be very poor-quality complete units with a lot of less-than-idea comments across many brands of cars etc.
So a good day in some ways, at least I've found the point of failure, maybe the pothole incident didn't help the joint as the problem ha sonly really come to a head since that crunch.
time for tea and biscuits now.
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Having thought about it more I've realized this is the same outer cv joint that caused me grief back in May 2020 when the shaft decided it wanted to part company from the joint and left me stranded without any forward or backward motion, i wasn't amused at all.
A thought occurs, nothing to do with cars, errrrrrrrrrrrrr.......... I hope you're not calling the wife Piggy Malone............... Sorry. Normal Service can now be resumed.......
In my ongoing quest to solve the rattling/vibrations from the front end I replaced both front shafts with Apec items, they seem to be of good build quality with a 3 year warranty.
A nice easy couple of hours this morning inc tea and biscuit breaks..lo, ive got this shaft removal down to a fine art now.
A quick road test confirms the problem is solved but now i need to get the tracking and wheels balanced as i'm getting a bit of shake , not a lot but given the tire wear it is safe to say my nearside tracking is a mile out.
probably worth keeping the old ones for the new boots fitted in case i need a spare ..
A nice easy couple of hours this morning inc tea and biscuit breaks..lo, ive got this shaft removal down to a fine art now.
A quick road test confirms the problem is solved but now i need to get the tracking and wheels balanced as i'm getting a bit of shake , not a lot but given the tire wear it is safe to say my nearside tracking is a mile out.
probably worth keeping the old ones for the new boots fitted in case i need a spare ..
Whilst I was under the old bus this morning with the undertray removed it looks like a small oil leak from the oil filter housing area, probably the oil cooler, it's only small so i won't mess around with it now.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.
Allways something.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.
Allways something.
Swapped front wheels back onto the rears which means the pothole-damaged tire is now on rear offside, and now the front end is super smooth, the way it should be.
Happy days for now.
Just need to chase SCC about my claim.
Happy days for now.
Just need to chase SCC about my claim.
Mine is the same, small leak by oil filter housing, oil is on the block, there's a ledge and found it there,
Me thinks it's the oil filter housing to block, not cheap part.
Found leak showing on the undertray that side of the engine, near the middle.
I think it's the same problem Richard and does appear to be a common occurrence with age as seals dry out and leaks occur.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
That's not an easy job, couldn't attempt that job with just trolly Jack's and axel stands?
What upgrade you thinking off?
I may opt to use a lift and get all these outstanding jobs done and out of the way.
Not sure which options there still are on the market for the b7 tfsi oil pump solution, may have to do some research into best method.
Not sure which options there still are on the market for the b7 tfsi oil pump solution, may have to do some research into best method.
I have several big tasks to do on the old bus which are more pressing and, to be honest, way more important than fitting the uprated turbo kit, so, i will press on with them.
On the scale of things by doing the crucial maintenance-based work now it will give the old bus a better chance of lasting longer when i fit the uprated turbo kit etc.
I need to address the oil leak from the oil cooler/filter housing thats appeared this weekend.
Oil pump upgrade or similar
new clutch and DMF
possibly look at a new exhaust system now as the oem one is starting to show its age around the back boxes.
thats enough to be getting on with.
On the scale of things by doing the crucial maintenance-based work now it will give the old bus a better chance of lasting longer when i fit the uprated turbo kit etc.
I need to address the oil leak from the oil cooler/filter housing thats appeared this weekend.
Oil pump upgrade or similar
new clutch and DMF
possibly look at a new exhaust system now as the oem one is starting to show its age around the back boxes.
thats enough to be getting on with.
On reflection, I may just use the engine out method.
I have an engine lift and engine stand and a dry garage to work in.
It sounds like a lot of hassle but in reality, it's the easiest and most cost-effective way to do the work in one hit from a DIY standpoint.
I can do the work over a few days without lift hire charges mounting up etc .
draining the coolant would need doing anyway along with engine oil etc, so its really only the time involved in getting it extracted, saves a lot of doubling up on fluids etc .
I have an engine lift and engine stand and a dry garage to work in.
It sounds like a lot of hassle but in reality, it's the easiest and most cost-effective way to do the work in one hit from a DIY standpoint.
I can do the work over a few days without lift hire charges mounting up etc .
draining the coolant would need doing anyway along with engine oil etc, so its really only the time involved in getting it extracted, saves a lot of doubling up on fluids etc .
Lot to be said for being able to take your time, in dry conditions, at no cost.
If you've another car it's a no brainer imo
re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
If you've another car it's a no brainer imo
re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
Maybe worth going this route
Rip out the oem assembly and inspect for wear and tear then fit this VIS kit.
Rip out the oem assembly and inspect for wear and tear then fit this VIS kit.
The problem stems around the balance shaft .
- The OEM dual mass pulley can break up which will throw the chain off the oil pump and lead to loss of oil pressure, which can quickly destroy an engine.
- The balance shafts themselves can seize, especially when frequently driven at high RPM.
Maybe if a new pump assembly was not excessively costly and the modified kit fitted one would end up with a bullet proof setup.
Yes, using free wheel to eliminate the gear sprocket that fails.
I was also looking at Wasa motor, I think these people invented this first.
So today I tackled the first job, changing the Cam follower tappet in the HPFP.
Taking the banjo bolt out is a bit tricky, and putting it back as well.
The one I removed had done approximately 36,000 miles, did look that bad, as I'm running Autotech HPFP internals and stage 2 remap.
The cam looked in really good condition, no marks at all.
The sun did come out,,,, after I finished.
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Looks about right for the mileage with the BUL engine, and worth replacing it when you did, once they start to wear they go quite quickly.
The Bango bolt setup on the earlier engines is a bit of a pain, but not worth changing given the minimal times the follower needs to be changed.
Found some uneven pad wear on my front nearside, on the inner pad more than outer.
I suspect a sticking piston is a most likely suspect, a job for the weekend now.
I suspect a sticking piston is a most likely suspect, a job for the weekend now.
I have really never had a problem on the cars I owned with the front calipers, it's always been the rears sizeing up.
But, I guess the can fail, I have had uneven wear on my fronts, was pointed out to me by the Mot guy a couple years ago,
The pads were leaving the edge of the disk untouched, checked them out and just changed the disks and pads,
Cleaned caliper and greased the slide pins, and all well so far.
The disks and pads came with the car when I bought it, so didn't mind changing them anyway.
I suspect the smallest of the 3 inner pistons is sticking a bit, not a massive amount but enough to cause uneven pressure on the pad leading to uneven wear.
just another job on that never end list.
just another job on that never end list.
And sometimes very problematic Richard, in many ways, still worth the having them though.
And to be fair they are not really that more expensive than OEM S4 setup.
And to be fair they are not really that more expensive than OEM S4 setup.
Retrofitted cruise control into the s4 and can't believe how easy it was.
- Add the stalk to the column (already had the correct squib installed as I've got the flappy paddles)
- Code the engine to activate CC
- Code the steering column to tell it CC is now there.
One I did find though is that I had to code the engine first before it would take the steering column coding onboard.
All works though and not bad for a £30 upgrade.
- Add the stalk to the column (already had the correct squib installed as I've got the flappy paddles)
- Code the engine to activate CC
- Code the steering column to tell it CC is now there.
One I did find though is that I had to code the engine first before it would take the steering column coding onboard.
All works though and not bad for a £30 upgrade.
Absolutely nothing to the old bus.
laid up with chronic bad back again, I hate getting old.
laid up with chronic bad back again, I hate getting old.
