Tfsi and Deisel, like chalk and cheese, depending on which one you purchased in tfsi flavour.
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
Same as yours in Silver. 06 Special Edition TFSI Quattro
I will as soon as it landsPics and spec asap chap, you know how we like these details.
You will notice the fuel consumption difference that's for sure, way more visits to the pump i'm afraid, still worth it though.
It's silver. It might be Akoya, not certain which paint code just yet but it looks very very clean
Factory Xenons. Colour DIS, RNS-E, Black Leather, Heated. Armrest, Comfort Lighting, DTM Alloys
Start of a new year so a good reason to remove the wheels and give the old bus a good pressure wash underneath, get rid of 2022's mud, crud, and salt buildup.
So off with the alloys and it became pretty clear there is an issue with the offside front outer CV joint, most of the grease from within the joint was plastered around the rim and close proximity to the wheel arch, and the CV boot is split in the center.
That will most likely account for some of the noise if not all that I'm experiencing on the front end, it's probably just rotating in a smear of grease, not ideal and I expect it has worn a bit more as a result.
That's next week's job, I'll fit the repacked OEM drive shafts and new CV boots I have as they are better even as they are than the rubbish auto doc items fitted at present.
Whilst wheels were off and everything was clean I opted to wind back the front coil-overs 25mm, they were at 70mm compression, now at 55mm so in real terms that's about 15mm higher ride height, going up a bit may also helps the top control arm bushes a bit, I'll see how it goes for a week and may wind it up another 15mm.
Rears are fine.
KW's are such an easy setup to adjust, just allen key and 1 c-spanner and caliper and good to go.
All alloys spanking clean again, that front offside was a pig to get grease-free, CV grease can be a right pain to dissolve sometimes so I let it soak in Junk for an hour.
Finished with shampoo and set for the old bus.
Happy days.
So off with the alloys and it became pretty clear there is an issue with the offside front outer CV joint, most of the grease from within the joint was plastered around the rim and close proximity to the wheel arch, and the CV boot is split in the center.
That will most likely account for some of the noise if not all that I'm experiencing on the front end, it's probably just rotating in a smear of grease, not ideal and I expect it has worn a bit more as a result.
That's next week's job, I'll fit the repacked OEM drive shafts and new CV boots I have as they are better even as they are than the rubbish auto doc items fitted at present.
Whilst wheels were off and everything was clean I opted to wind back the front coil-overs 25mm, they were at 70mm compression, now at 55mm so in real terms that's about 15mm higher ride height, going up a bit may also helps the top control arm bushes a bit, I'll see how it goes for a week and may wind it up another 15mm.
Rears are fine.
KW's are such an easy setup to adjust, just allen key and 1 c-spanner and caliper and good to go.
All alloys spanking clean again, that front offside was a pig to get grease-free, CV grease can be a right pain to dissolve sometimes so I let it soak in Junk for an hour.
Finished with shampoo and set for the old bus.
Happy days.
I may just do final tweaks on the front tomorrow then it's done and ready for a fresh alignment check on Monday.
Well, today i mostly got the b5 out of the garage so that i could put the b7 on the ramp and see what was going on after the wife phoned me today to say the steering wasn’t right after collecting daughter from activity. I went and rescued her, and was very evident straight away that power steering had gone, for whatever reason. Stuck it on the ramp like i said and could see fluid coming out the offside boot on the rack, slight split in the rack and it was dripping out of there. Looks like the fluid is pretty old, brown colour. Perhaps a seal? Anyway, ive managed to source a second hand one from a breaker, from a 3.2, hopefully someone can confirm if they are the same?
pics..
pics..
4 and 6 cyl use the same two steering racks.
only difference is weather you have Servotronic or not
8E2 442 053 T standard rack for 4 or 6 cyl variants
8E2 442 053 R is the Servotronic steering rack for 4 and 6 cyl variants.
so provided you have like-for-like parts you will be good to go.
Welcome to the club old boy! Yep, I've had to do the same with my front wheels and inner arches/suspension in the past, thick sticky layer of grease with loadsa road dirt mixed in.Start of a new year so a good reason to remove the wheels and give the old bus a good pressure wash underneath, get rid of 2022's mud, crud, and salt buildup.
So off with the alloys and it became pretty clear there is an issue with the offside front outer CV joint, most of the grease from within the joint was plastered around the rim and close proximity to the wheel arch, and the CV boot is split in the center.
That will most likely account for some of the noise if not all that I'm experiencing on the front end, it's probably just rotating in a smear of grease, not ideal and I expect it has worn a bit more as a result.
That's next week's job, I'll fit the repacked OEM drive shafts and new CV boots I have as they are better even as they are than the rubbish auto doc items fitted at present.
Whilst wheels were off and everything was clean I opted to wind back the front coil-overs 25mm, they were at 70mm compression, now at 55mm so in real terms that's about 15mm higher ride height, going up a bit may also helps the top control arm bushes a bit, I'll see how it goes for a week and may wind it up another 15mm.
Rears are fine.
KW's are such an easy setup to adjust, just allen key and 1 c-spanner and caliper and good to go.
All alloys spanking clean again, that front offside was a pig to get grease-free, CV grease can be a right pain to dissolve sometimes so I let it soak in Junk for an hour.
Finished with shampoo and set for the old bus.
Happy days.
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I've usually found an old dish washing brush and a nylon pot scourer along with plenty paraffin will get them clean n shiny again.
Nice shiny suspension bits are always good to see too! Especially when I've got your old bits on my car now.........
Decided to do the rears as well this morning, only a small amount of adjustment required and front to rear ride height is nice and balanced.
off for the alignment check tomorrow.
off for the alignment check tomorrow.
Hi there, just thought I'd stick my bit in - You can quickly identify if your car has/hasn't got Servotronic steering - Have a look inside the fuse box cover on drivers side, look and see if you can see a module (behind the fuses) marked with a number 638 or, possibly, it may say Servotronic on it. If it's there, you've got Servotronic, If not, you haven't. Simples!
Also in the code list in the service book front page
1N3 speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
1N3 speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic)
The rack ive got lined up from a breaker is from a 3.2, how can you tell from the rack itself? Just checked the 1N3, and my car has it from the sticker. So I wonder if this other one will. Hmmm more investigating required.. Watched a few youtube videos and removal doesn’t actually look too bad. Pinch bolts on the tie rod ends could be an issue, but hopefully other than that not too bad… famous last words! Haha
He’s told me there was a plug on the rack that had to disconnect, sounds like it’ll be servotronic.
Yeh, good shout. I’m going to et him to double check before i head down to his to collect it. It’s about 50 minutes drive away, so dont want to waste each others time.
New clutch and DMF fitted (precautionary, as we tow) at 178k.
Passed her MOT, advisory on CV boots have slight cracking.
Passed her MOT, advisory on CV boots have slight cracking.
Attempted my offside front drive shaft/cv boot only to be let down by ECP idiots once again, I said I was never going to use them after the last fiasco, but stupidly i did after they assured me they had the correct parts, NOT.
They are such a waste of effort and they wasted my time and fuel to collect kit that was wrong.
Arghhhhhh.
They are such a waste of effort and they wasted my time and fuel to collect kit that was wrong.
Arghhhhhh.
Ok then chaps.
A new day and the sun was out and my mind was calm after yesterday's faff.
I'd been pondering on the snap ring or lack of it situation and decided to just fabricate an alternative .
Not really ideal but needs must sometimes and given the old snap ring was like soft cheese steel whatever I came up with was only going to be an improvement.
Having a bit of toast this morning it came to me, why not use a key ring loop, well half of the loop, they are made from a more than suitable material and will retain their shape when compressed.
So after a rummage through my bits box, a suitable ring was found and of the correct thickness to fit perfectly in the shaft retaining slot, cut in half to just one ring, and then cut to length to allow enough when expanded in the other slot to hold the shaft in nice and snug, probably better than the way it was prior to be honest.
Snap Ring fitted, joints all packed with grease, and decent rubber boots fitted, non of those plastic things, and all ready to refit.
Fitted this afternoon, nice easy hours work and jobs all sorted, no issues with removal, no need to remove the heat shield or anything else, which is always a bonus, just some careful wiggling .
The autodoc shaft I removed was totally shot as you will see in the pics, judging by the state of the bearing and flailing around it was about to fall apart anytime.
Compare the two, the OEM 15 year old one with miles now refurbed and the auto doc one that is just over 12 months old and covered about 3k miles, it's appalling.
Anyway, happy chappy again, nice and quiet from the front end again.
time for tea and biscuits now.
A new day and the sun was out and my mind was calm after yesterday's faff.
I'd been pondering on the snap ring or lack of it situation and decided to just fabricate an alternative .
Not really ideal but needs must sometimes and given the old snap ring was like soft cheese steel whatever I came up with was only going to be an improvement.
Having a bit of toast this morning it came to me, why not use a key ring loop, well half of the loop, they are made from a more than suitable material and will retain their shape when compressed.
So after a rummage through my bits box, a suitable ring was found and of the correct thickness to fit perfectly in the shaft retaining slot, cut in half to just one ring, and then cut to length to allow enough when expanded in the other slot to hold the shaft in nice and snug, probably better than the way it was prior to be honest.
Snap Ring fitted, joints all packed with grease, and decent rubber boots fitted, non of those plastic things, and all ready to refit.
Fitted this afternoon, nice easy hours work and jobs all sorted, no issues with removal, no need to remove the heat shield or anything else, which is always a bonus, just some careful wiggling .
The autodoc shaft I removed was totally shot as you will see in the pics, judging by the state of the bearing and flailing around it was about to fall apart anytime.
Compare the two, the OEM 15 year old one with miles now refurbed and the auto doc one that is just over 12 months old and covered about 3k miles, it's appalling.
Anyway, happy chappy again, nice and quiet from the front end again.
time for tea and biscuits now.
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I even contemplated removing one of the CV joints from the nearside outer auto doc item as a spare.
It wasn't coming off full stop , even with a sledgehammer and drift it wasn't moving, god knows how it could be removed if the boots needed doing on that side.
Luckily I didn't need it and the inner joint was shot, so ended up doing this to it....
It wasn't coming off full stop , even with a sledgehammer and drift it wasn't moving, god knows how it could be removed if the boots needed doing on that side.
Luckily I didn't need it and the inner joint was shot, so ended up doing this to it....
The above is why i got a used front set of shafts off ebay in excellent condition... huge job saved,
finding decent parts is a nightmare, i did track down the oe supplier off the boots but i cant remember off the top of my head, someone one ebay was selling them.
finding decent parts is a nightmare, i did track down the oe supplier off the boots but i cant remember off the top of my head, someone one ebay was selling them.
I'm not even sure why I took my oem ones off and replaced with rubbish autodoc ones.
Anyway , the original ones are back on and operating nicely.
Anyway , the original ones are back on and operating nicely.
Came to conclude outer cv joints don’t come off without destroying it ,the taper on the inner race allows fitting ,but it’s a one way street ,it’s not there to compress the clip on the way off
Circlip on the end of the drive shaft like the inner cv would and should of been the design
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In all fairness the CV joint is not that bad a design, given it has to move in multiple directions whilst still providing rotational output it works very well.
The taper is to help the ring compress whilst moving the shaft into its final position within the joint, given the ring recess on the shaft and in the joint race it's only really designed to be a one-time fit, once removal takes place the ring is 9 out of 10 times broken as the recesses don't have a taper and are not designed to have otherwise it would defeat the object of the design and allow the shaft to just pull out with little force.
The snap ring is a good solution for the type of joint, I'm not sure there is any other method that offers ease of disassembly and rebuilds and for the most part a secure method of holding the shaft and joint together.
I don't really mind doing them, what I find annoying is the lack of motor factor info when selling these as there are numerous kits, and worse still the kits are always missing something such as the snap ring, given it is an important part, why don't they ensure the kits are complete and small parts are securely packed in the boxes.
Still, things will never change , and it just makes me that much more the wiser next time .
The taper is to help the ring compress whilst moving the shaft into its final position within the joint, given the ring recess on the shaft and in the joint race it's only really designed to be a one-time fit, once removal takes place the ring is 9 out of 10 times broken as the recesses don't have a taper and are not designed to have otherwise it would defeat the object of the design and allow the shaft to just pull out with little force.
The snap ring is a good solution for the type of joint, I'm not sure there is any other method that offers ease of disassembly and rebuilds and for the most part a secure method of holding the shaft and joint together.
I don't really mind doing them, what I find annoying is the lack of motor factor info when selling these as there are numerous kits, and worse still the kits are always missing something such as the snap ring, given it is an important part, why don't they ensure the kits are complete and small parts are securely packed in the boxes.
Still, things will never change , and it just makes me that much more the wiser next time .
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Gave the interior a quick detail, scrubs up well considering it's an 18 year old car. Need to get my rs4 steering wheel and gearstick re trimmed and fitted.
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It could be arranged for a small fee mateLooks great
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Weekly oil check etc today and all good, a quick look down and it would appear my nearside drive shaft cv joint inner boot is failing with grease starting to get thrown all over the place, there allways something.
So will be rebuilding that side this weekend.
So will be rebuilding that side this weekend.
is that interior out of an s5?Gave the interior a quick detail, scrubs up well considering it's an 18 year old car. Need to get my rs4 steering wheel and gearstick re trimmed and fitted.
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Took the old bus down to my local garage that I know I can trust for some possible damage investigation.
Since the pothole incident a week or so ago on the front nearside the front end seems to be shaking, more at a slow speed, almost as if the wheel is buckled or something is loose, really a bit disconcerting.
It cant be the wheel as I've moved it to the rear offside.
I have a suspicion that the impact has damaged more than just the tire and possibly the rim, they are snowed under with work and can't take a good look for at least 10 days, so ill have to put up with it for now and monitor the situation.
I have had a good look myself but without a ramp etc it's not easy to check for damage to linkages etc or maybe worse, everything seems ok but clearly, something is amiss somewhere.
Not good frankly.
Since the pothole incident a week or so ago on the front nearside the front end seems to be shaking, more at a slow speed, almost as if the wheel is buckled or something is loose, really a bit disconcerting.
It cant be the wheel as I've moved it to the rear offside.
I have a suspicion that the impact has damaged more than just the tire and possibly the rim, they are snowed under with work and can't take a good look for at least 10 days, so ill have to put up with it for now and monitor the situation.
I have had a good look myself but without a ramp etc it's not easy to check for damage to linkages etc or maybe worse, everything seems ok but clearly, something is amiss somewhere.
Not good frankly.
Bought some new floor mats and wind deflector ready for the incoming purchase that arrives Thursday…
Well last night to be exact.
I had a strange dream that I sold the old bus and bought a ford galaxy, what was that all about, I woke up and realized that was more of a nightmare...
maybe something to do with the current problems the old bus is experiencing.
I had a strange dream that I sold the old bus and bought a ford galaxy, what was that all about, I woke up and realized that was more of a nightmare...
maybe something to do with the current problems the old bus is experiencing.
