After a look at Audi parts and cross ref with others such as autodoc the construction material does vary, with ones having an elastomer content being more expensive and look to be a better part .
Just on that note chap, did you replace the whole shaft assembly or just the cv joints ?
Are you sure it's not your A/C compressor pulley - that can get awful noisy like that. Wheel bearing too can be noisy but it's a different sound, horrible scraping and rasping.
Inlet and Exhaust side egr blanked off ,egr pipe removed (hot side)
Hot side was a pig of a job ,these engines in an a4 do not lend themselves to easy access
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Oh wow, I didn't realise there was a version of the A4 with the 3.0 TDI and no DPF, you've done really well there. With a map and proper EGR delete in software it will be a pleasure to drive and effortless torque.
nice to see you have a full set of 5.
Scooped up my refurbed cast13 ,bronze was never gonna work on lava grey like it did on garnet red
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Wow the silver wheels look fantastic, suits the lava grey really wellYep total pita,was important to me to have 5 as these aren’t made anymore (with matching tyres)
They worked in bronze on the garnet red but were so wrong on lava grey
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Beautiful B7
This is exactly the route I want to go now - economy remap, egr blanking. After 5 hour+ drives up and down to Glasgow and seeing my shiny exhaust turn black, I've decided after being anti delete, that smoke has to go, although I've never noticed it and the car runs very sweetly since oil pump/cambelt change. Although only a humble 140PD, never having a DPF is another reason to keep hold too. I would have looked for a 3.0TDI, if I'd known they came without too - great engine! First though I have the little matter and big expense of having the suspension overhauled, about a grand from the same people who did a brilliant job on the pump - Straightline Performance, Malvern. Are garages reluctant to do the EGR blanking, these days?
Great choice, you certainly won't regret it. Have a read of my response to Tim's other thread here, has all the information and parts you need, as I did the same to my PD 140:
Cheers for that. I've seen some very flimsy blanking plates and that's put me right off, but those look the ticket.
Cheers mate! Good to know. I'm not looking for stage 1 personally. I know the engine is good now, for it. But the clutch/dmf and turbo, are as far as I know original and still good. I'm allowing for having to replace either at some point but I'm not convinced standard replacements are up to stage 1 torque, for sustained use either. I'm looking at an economy remap, which is about 15-20% more power and torque. I drive like a grandad these days anyway ha ha, it would be just nice to have even better economy and a little more oomph in low gear. The guys where I'm taking can map out the EMS for the EGR too, which is essential to me also.
To my knowledge the DMF and clutch will have no problems with stage 1 power and torque, however the turbo's on the BRE are quite small, which is good in that it allows them to spool up very early in the rev range, but they don't have loads of overhead in terms of tuning. From my research, a typical stage 1 on our engine will take power from 140hp → 170hp (+30hp) and torque from 320nm → 390nm (+70nm), however this is stretching the stock turbocharger. My mapper does not use generic maps, and does each map to suit the car and the owners wish, so I'm going to ask for 160hp (+20hp) and 370nm (+50nm). Sort of a stage 0.75 really
The injectors, turbo, clutch and DMF will have no problem sustaining that, but will give a good improvement to drivability.
should be looking Concours after that.Dropped my car off to the body shop today to have the wing lip rust sorted, and the front bumper repainted. Nigel is also kindly clear cornering my headlights, and swapping over my halogen lenses as they are in much better condition. Should be looking very sharp when I get it back, hopefully at the end of the week. Very excited
