I have exactly the same predicament Rob.
Clean the car then by the time I get in to drive it it’s covered in dust
Clean the car then by the time I get in to drive it it’s covered in dust
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
My little girl was sat in my car listening to music last night. When I got in this morning I’d picked up a new passenger:
She said her and Morty were on a space mission to find Rick Sanchez. She’s 5
She said her and Morty were on a space mission to find Rick Sanchez. She’s 5
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Hi Dan,
Did you modify the A4 airbag loom for the extra ground and different horn connector to fit the S3 wheel?
Putting a similar one on mine to replace the standard RS4 MFSW.
I've modified an existing A4 loom but not yet fitted - should be in the next day or 2.
Cheers
Mike
Booked the remap in for 10th May today and replaced the brake vacuum pipe, had an engine code of P0420 which has cleared im assuming its from the hfc if not more than likely a failing o2 sensor, also need to clean and re oil the induction kit fit the uprated spark plugs and do an oil and filter change ready for the 10th.
@mikep99 - my wheel is from an 08 plate S3 mate. They’re plug and play on the later model b7’s so long as you have a dual stage airbag.
You can tell if you have a dual stage when you remove your airbag. If it has 2 connections on the back, one green one purple from memory, your good to go.
All the steering wheel functions work as well.
managed to pick it up with the airbag for £300 on eBoss last year
It really brings the interior of the car up to date. Compared to my old SE steering wheel with the rectangle airbag it is 110% better
You can tell if you have a dual stage when you remove your airbag. If it has 2 connections on the back, one green one purple from memory, your good to go.
All the steering wheel functions work as well.
managed to pick it up with the airbag for £300 on eBoss last year
It really brings the interior of the car up to date. Compared to my old SE steering wheel with the rectangle airbag it is 110% better
@Ricky Burrows - where have you booked it in mate? Have you got a spacer on your HFC? Mine would throw a code all the time until I put one on
@Owenb7avant has a K04 for sale if your tempted?
@Owenb7avant has a K04 for sale if your tempted?
The K04 is worth it. The SE should have came out of the factory with one. Really livens the car up.
I always felt the car was underpowered when I was running the stock set up. It’s lively now, like I said in my other post I had the brakes smoking yesterday ha ha
I always felt the car was underpowered when I was running the stock set up. It’s lively now, like I said in my other post I had the brakes smoking yesterday ha ha
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Cheers Dan,
That's weird, the yellow loom connectors I've seen on the A3/S3/TT airbags are different to those on an A4.
I definitely have a dual stage airbag - RS4 2007.
Yeah, I've ended up with 2 FBSWs and 1 airbag from a TT.
Refurbed them over the last few weeks - sanded, recoloured and given them a matt finish.
ta
Mike
I went with performance remap in Gloucester will have launch control added and speed limiter removed just basic stuff nothing to crazy, thanks for the heads up on the k04 I think I'm going to keep saving for the E63 though, the Mercedes is where my heart lies I did try with the Audi and I am really interested to see how it feels after the map, if the clutch holds up so they get the most out of that vis hpfp I think it will be easily on par with the stock 300hp golf r's and s3's so for an old girl that should keep her up to date, power wise, but I got a 700+ hp luxury ultimate man machine bug I'm wanting to itch so my focus is on that
Defiantly agree with that Dan well maybe not the special edition but defiantly the dtm's should have came with ko4's like the ed30 golfs of that era as it was supposed to be a "special" car giving it the same engine and power as a normal A4 was a terrible idea, that's the only reason why I wouldn't touch a dtm unless it had a k04 fitted but moment you do that you killed the value of the car anyway you cant win lol.
I’m quite tempted by the newer golf r’s. Can get them up to 500hp without changing rods/pistons etc
Yeah there pretty cheap now as well, the estates are weird looking but definitely different, having a 500hp 4wd dsg estate is an awesome idea id be tempted by one
Got my rear subframe finished yesterday, was pretty straightforward in the end and speed sensors were the only real casualty / expense. Was good to get underneath cleaned up and undersealed. Off to work for 5 weeks now so MOT when I'm home again...
SO - At the weekend, thought I'd do a quick check on my recently replaced oil level sensor (to see if theres any oil leaks).
BUT - once it's up in the air, after looking about (oil sensor OK by the way) find I've got a split CV joint boot on drivers side. The same side I recently had to replace the CV joint when it collapsed on me one day (see earlier in 'What have you done' thread.)
Nowadays, I can get the driveshaft off & onto the bench very quickly (10 mins) as I've done it so often.......
BUT - now it's time to seperate the CV joint to replace the boot. All seems straightforward so far.
BUT - after tapping it a few times to 'shock' it loose, it won't seperate - snap ring holding firm. Start to hit it harder for a while - still no movement but it does move/slip in the Vice. Crank Vice harder closed, try again. Nope - Hitting very Hard now (wih a 4lb hammer) and still it just slips in the vice.
SO - crank vice harder still & now the vice breaks in half!!!!! Time for some olympic class swearing. You probably know all the words to this song already.
Give up in disgust for the day - already been at it for about 4 hours now.
Next day, get another, much more substantial Vice (almost a 2 man lift), install on bench, time to start on driveshaft again. Get it all clamped up & commence hammering again. Harder & Harder & HARDER!!!!! - Still cant get it to seperate. I can't actually manage to hit it any harder than I am now so finally decide it's time for the angle grinder. Grind outer case, force out the ball bearings, grind a slot through the cage & force that out of the joint & then off the drive shaft so all thats left now is the inner cage.
Start hammering the inner cage but stiill it wont seperate. Get the grinder again and grind a slot into the side of the cage (carefully as possible 'cos drive shaft itself now imperilled). Now got a slot, use a crowbar to split/crack it apart. It'll surely drift off now? Not a chance. Had to grind another slot on other side to break the web in half!
FINALLY got the Driveshaft seperated!
Got the new CV joint (I now keep one on hand), greased it all up and fitted it (with a new snap ring) very easily. Back out to the car, refitted in about 15 mins. Job finally done!
BUT, this half hour job took 2 days to complete! Pic of broken/wrecked parts below.
GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!
BUT - once it's up in the air, after looking about (oil sensor OK by the way) find I've got a split CV joint boot on drivers side. The same side I recently had to replace the CV joint when it collapsed on me one day (see earlier in 'What have you done' thread.)
Nowadays, I can get the driveshaft off & onto the bench very quickly (10 mins) as I've done it so often.......
BUT - now it's time to seperate the CV joint to replace the boot. All seems straightforward so far.
BUT - after tapping it a few times to 'shock' it loose, it won't seperate - snap ring holding firm. Start to hit it harder for a while - still no movement but it does move/slip in the Vice. Crank Vice harder closed, try again. Nope - Hitting very Hard now (wih a 4lb hammer) and still it just slips in the vice.
SO - crank vice harder still & now the vice breaks in half!!!!! Time for some olympic class swearing. You probably know all the words to this song already.
Give up in disgust for the day - already been at it for about 4 hours now.
Next day, get another, much more substantial Vice (almost a 2 man lift), install on bench, time to start on driveshaft again. Get it all clamped up & commence hammering again. Harder & Harder & HARDER!!!!! - Still cant get it to seperate. I can't actually manage to hit it any harder than I am now so finally decide it's time for the angle grinder. Grind outer case, force out the ball bearings, grind a slot through the cage & force that out of the joint & then off the drive shaft so all thats left now is the inner cage.
Start hammering the inner cage but stiill it wont seperate. Get the grinder again and grind a slot into the side of the cage (carefully as possible 'cos drive shaft itself now imperilled). Now got a slot, use a crowbar to split/crack it apart. It'll surely drift off now? Not a chance. Had to grind another slot on other side to break the web in half!
FINALLY got the Driveshaft seperated!
Got the new CV joint (I now keep one on hand), greased it all up and fitted it (with a new snap ring) very easily. Back out to the car, refitted in about 15 mins. Job finally done!
BUT, this half hour job took 2 days to complete! Pic of broken/wrecked parts below.
GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!
Last edited:
Fitted my Exeo RNS-E, modified loom, GPS antenna and AMI. Just need to find a local with VCDS to code the AMI and allow the nav to show on the DIS.
Just a quick update my b7 she unfortunately will be in the classifieds in the next few days ill go ahead and get her mapped Monday but will be straight up for sale after so if anyone's interested keep an eye on the classifieds next week
Figuring out a way to get the finances now rather than another 5 months like planned for the e63 but im not sure yet mate if its not possible then ill keep my options open nothing else really tickles my fancy tbh, yeah the b8 s4 has the best engine gives me old b5 rs4 vibes being a big litre v6 turbo
Ok just found out the rs4 was a
More than likely because the A4 is more useable/appealing as its more family orientated, looks wise it will have to be the b8.5 the b8's are a bit of an ugly duckling interiors are nice on both though saying that though all Audis from 2010 onwards seem to have upped there game drastically.
Fitted a pair of new rear springs today and a new steering rack boot. Also gave the rear discs and backing plates a quick tart up too whilst i was there.
Be glad when the new springs settle in, its like I've fitted a lift kit lol
Be glad when the new springs settle in, its like I've fitted a lift kit lol
Sad day the old girl has been sold went up for sale this morning now she's gone I knew it wouldn't hang around but its a shame they don't have the value they deserve from the cars specs compared to similarly priced cars it should be a 4k car all day long but oh well done now, its been emotional.
A week and a boot full of kit over the weekend later and the rear springs seem to have settled in now to there pre replacement days and im quite happy with the ride height again.
Another new issue to solve though now in the form of towbar wiring. I've been informed that the brake lights on the trailer stay on after releasing the pedal and come on on there own, so a call to PF jones later and im stripping the interior down again.
Not strictly a B7 defect this time though for a change
Another new issue to solve though now in the form of towbar wiring. I've been informed that the brake lights on the trailer stay on after releasing the pedal and come on on there own, so a call to PF jones later and im stripping the interior down again.
Not strictly a B7 defect this time though for a change
It would, but i have too many other projects ongoing without the car failing me!Allways something Alex, life would be a bit boring otherwise..
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You don’t have LEDs on the trailer do you? When I hooked up my boat trailer after installing towbar the lights were doing all sorts of weird things. I thought I’d messed something up with the wiring but was just the LEDs on the trailer not drawing enough juice. Resistors on every light sorted it out
Got welding to on merc first but once that’s done . I’m going to start ringing refresh .
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My car sits on original sline suspension and they need to be changed. What’s your recommendations? I like the rear stance but the front needs to go lower. I haven’t checked if it’s the dampers or the springs that’s the issue yet, but I’ve heard sline’s not the best... even tho I think they ride pretty ok.
Could you give me a run down in fitting resistors on the lights please. I have weird ESD happening to my trailer and caravan rear lights after fitting LEDs.
Thanks.
S line suspension is bad, especially when old. I'm biased but fit some Eibach Sportlines or Pros, coupled with Bilstein dampers.
What springs did you use one of y rears has snapped.
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Today I connect the mfsw buttons to the airbag wiring loom myself, searched far and wide and finally found the correct diagram. Connected and coded and everything works perfectly. I’ll leave the photo here in case other needs it.
Have a great day all!
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Here’s a couple pics. I just basically got 6 resistors 21w12v to mimic normal bulbs and put them in line on each positive wire. Married all the negatives together and glued them into a sealed aluminium box on the trailer. There was enough slack in my trailer wiring so I didn’t have re-run any of it
Here’s a couple pics. I just basically got 6 resistors 21w12v to mimic normal bulbs and put them in line on each positive wire. Married all the negatives together and glued them into a sealed aluminium box on the trailer. There was enough slack in my trailer wiring so I didn’t have re-run any of it
Ok, does that effort mean that the LED bulbs are more effective than filiment bulb fitment?
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What do you mean by effective?
I’d just installed a new waterproof sealed set of leds on the boat trailer so just did this to make them work. They worked fine when hooked up to my Hilux. Normal bulbs would be fine if I didn’t already have the led set installed
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I mean are LEDs worth all the extra hassle of fitting resistors?
I've fitted tail light and indicator bulbs to me trailer and caravan and had nothing but issues with them since. I think traditional bulbs might be the answer.
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Yeah I’d just put normal bulbs in if I were you.
I think they’re worth it for the boat trailer as the whole light unit gets submerged at the ramp and might last longer
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I just replaced with sachs ones bud, springs breaking is common on B7s especially Avants
