What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

First half of the Eibach sport lines fitted. Wasn’t too bad of a job to do, I’ve got a seized track rod end to try and free off then get the tracking done. And spent an hour trying to retrieve one the top mount bolts which took a fancy to hiding below the brake servo

Thinking now before I do the rears I should probably get a pair of shocks. Seems a vast improvement over the originals, it’s a firm ride still but definitely doesn’t seem as harsh over bumps in the road.
 

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First half of the Eibach sport lines fitted. Wasn’t too bad of a job to do, I’ve got a seized track rod end to try and free off then get the tracking done. And spent an hour trying to retrieve one the top mount bolts which took a fancy to hiding below the brake servo

Thinking now before I do the rears I should probably get a pair of shocks. Seems a vast improvement over the originals, it’s a firm ride still but definitely doesn’t seem as harsh over bumps in the road.

I did exactly that myself and couldn’t find my telescopic magnet ,had to mangle a screw driver bit extension with gaffer tape and a suitably bent piece of copper pipe
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Haha. I managed to use a plastic saw blade guard and some long nose pliers in the end. Spent longer hunting for one ****** bolt than I did doing the entire passenger side
 
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St Richards?

My girlfriend did that to our A4. She had a habit of parking the bumper right over the kerb, until she ripped the bumper off. She stays well back now.

Yes, SRH.
Not going to park like that again.
Get the car back this week.
I’m amazed how much I miss it.


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Haven't you finished yet, talk about stretching out a job..lol :icon thumright:
 
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You can never get enough anti-seize on. I always use Comma copper grease, on everything.
I hate doing jobs on a car for the first time, brakes, shocks etc, because no-one ever has ever used it before.

I was recommended to try Shell V-power once. It showed no better fuel consumption for the money, in fact the opposite. I just stick to adding a shot of 2 stroke oil on each fill up instead.
 
Have just been playing around with my spare strut and spring compressors.
I've never taken a spring off before, are 2 compressors safe or should it be 3 to squeeze it squarely? The shape of the top mount doesn't help compressor placement.
 
I only used two, worked Fine , just make sure they are evenly spaced .
 
Have just been playing around with my spare strut and spring compressors.
I've never taken a spring off before, are 2 compressors safe or should it be 3 to squeeze it squarely? The shape of the top mount doesn't help compressor placement.
I didn’t use any. Just went at it with my big impact gun and made sure it was pointed away from anything breakable.
 
I didn’t use any. Just went at it with my big impact gun and made sure it was pointed away from anything breakable.

that's not really the best solution chap but i'll give you 10 out 10 for living on the edge though..lol
 
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Rob, quick question. What happens if I vent this to air?
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that's not really the best solution chap but i'll give you 10 out 10 for living on the edge though..lol

I’ve seen springs go off before so I know what they can do but I know that the ones on a B7 aren’t under that much compression.


Seriously?
How did you get the new springs back on?

just slid them over the shocks and put the top mount back on
 
I used these, and they are probably nearer 40 years old but work so well.

View attachment 206313

Don't suppose you can somehow show the positions you put them in Rob?
I put mine on the spring at the 2 cut out sides of the top mount and it didn't seem to compress it very squarely.
Does that matter, will the mount still come off and go back on ok?
 
I’ve seen springs go off before so I know what they can do but I know that the ones on a B7 aren’t under that much compression.

You're either one strong guy/ got very weak springs/ got a piston with a verrrrrry long thread on to enable you to get the nut on.




just slid them over the shocks and put the top mount back on
 

You would need to run the vc outlet vent hose to atmosphere and block the the return port on the turbo with a suitable plate .
The plate you show has a pass through port which allows the gases from the pimary oil separator to enter the VC through the secondary separator and then lets it vent out the VC port to the turbo , but if you block the turbo port you can vent directly to atmosphere, not the best solution on a road car but works all the same if that is your only option
 
Don't suppose you can somehow show the positions you put them in Rob?
I put mine on the spring at the 2 cut out sides of the top mount and it didn't seem to compress it very squarely.
Does that matter, will the mount still come off and go back on ok?

I didn’t have any so had no option but to go buy some ,a good mate (vag mech for 25 years )warned me about springs and sent me some vids off them going wrong ,scarey.One dented a skip from 50yrds
Also said some can sometimes slip around ,causing your spring to banana
I bought these 20£ worked fine felt secure ,I did cut the thread down so I could get them on while the struts on the car to help getting the damper fork up and off without damaging the cv boot https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pr...VDLDtCh1HpgSKEAQYAiABEgK24PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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Rob, quick question. What happens if I vent this to air?
82d733ec2ec6e1c6dc73ac51e046b02b.jpg


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All that plate is a PCV bypass device , under normal fittment the gases entering the VC as per normal just get routed out to the turbo along with and other contaminates , so you still get the oil in the intercooler and turbo , and inlet, just not as much as with the OEM setup.

So if you just vent the VC outlet return to the turbo then it just saves all the crud going back to the engine via other components but you get a messy engine bay unless you have a means of catching nasty stuff.
 
I didn’t have any so had no option but to go buy some ,a good mate (vag mech for 25 years )warned me about springs and sent me some vids off them going wrong ,scarey.One dented a skip from 50yrds
Also said some can sometimes slip around ,causing your spring to banana
I bought these 20£ worked fine felt secure ,I did cut the thread down so I could get them on while the struts on the car to help getting the damper fork up and off without damaging the cv boot https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pr...VDLDtCh1HpgSKEAQYAiABEgK24PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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This is my set, they even have natty pins to ensure they don't slip off.

IMG 20200713 204723431 copy 2268x3024


I'm just not sure where best to position them to get an even squeeze.

IMG 20200713 204839422 copy 3024x2268
 
This is my set, they even have natty pins to ensure they don't slip off.

View attachment 206316

I'm just not sure where best to position them to get an even squeeze.

View attachment 206317

I had one in line with the point of the triangle mount with the nut u tighten at the top ,the other on the opposite side the nut at the bottom ,I did cut some thread off as it fouled the mount


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I allways work on the basis , what ever works best in a given situation .:icon thumright:
 
All that plate is a PCV bypass device , under normal fittment the gases entering the VC as per normal just get routed out to the turbo along with and other contaminates , so you still get the oil in the intercooler and turbo , and inlet, just not as much as with the OEM setup.

So if you just vent the VC outlet return to the turbo then it just saves all the crud going back to the engine via other components but you get a messy engine bay unless you have a means of catching nasty stuff.
Im sorry Rob I know you've had enough with this, im just asking because i think my oil burning issue has something to do with this. I have the setup as per your old guide but have a feeling that under idle there isn't enough suction to let the pressure out of the VC, which is probably due to the remap

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It's fine chap, allways happy to assist.
If you have the VC outlet to turbo connected the vacuum from the turbo helps draw through gases otherwise it is reliant on the crankcase presssure to push things through and to atmosphere.
My setup made allowance for that by returning the VC outlet back to the system via the catch tank so vacuum was present to create the flow, you dont want any dead spots .
try just running it in the VC outlet turbo return as the oem setup and see what happens, don't vent it.
 
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It's fine chap, allways happy to assist.
If you have the VC outlet to turbo connected the vacuum from the turbo helps draw through gases otherwise it is reliant on the crankcase presssure to push things through and to atmosphere.
My setup made allowance for that by returning the VC outlet back to the system via the catch tank so vacuum was present to create the flow, you dont want any dead spots .
try just running it in the VC outlet turbo return as the oem setup and see what happens, don't vent it.
Maybe the hoses im using are too small, they're 19mm. I don't know but its driving me nuts. I just paid over a 1000$ to do the valve seals thinking it maybe the problem.

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Can anyone suggest what I should focus on next ,had the standard car since March.Wheels,suspension,belt and water pump and the oil pump drive done ..I’m thinking remap/brakes/exhaust ? Had a day off today and my first real chance to get on some quick B roads,very happy with its handling but want a bit more poke now


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Delete/temove your EGR valve.
It won't increase power, but it leads to a healthier happier engine.
Now that is a simple job, even removing the cooler isn't too difficult.
 
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Brakes before remap would be my personal preference. The difference I have felt upgrading to S4 carriers and 345mm discs with Ferodo pads is unreal. Feels like my insides are going to burst through my chest when I stamp on the stop pedal now
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Brakes before remap would be my personal preference. The difference I have felt upgrading to S4 carriers and 345mm discs with Ferodo pads is unreal. Feels like my insides are going to burst through my chest when I stamp on the stop pedal now View attachment 206332

Definitely looking at brakes the current ones don’t fill me with confidence


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