What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
I suspect this is going to end up a ball ache if it's been unplugged for a reason, haha. You call it a plunger... should there be movement in it?
Oddly, I thought you'd be the first responder for my wheel question!
Oddly, I thought you'd be the first responder for my wheel question!
well its not really a plunger switch as such, just works like one.
It is actually the glovebox door damper and glove box lamp switch in one housing, when you open the door it slows the rate of descent just like a suspension damper but also has the light switch built in so controls the box lamp on/off function, it should move in and out just like a shock absorber really.
hope that helps.
It is actually the glovebox door damper and glove box lamp switch in one housing, when you open the door it slows the rate of descent just like a suspension damper but also has the light switch built in so controls the box lamp on/off function, it should move in and out just like a shock absorber really.
hope that helps.
Very possibly the glovebox door has been removed and the plug not refitted or maybe an issue with the lamp assembly or the switch itself stopped working and it was just unplugged rather than fix the bulb/lamp fitting, either way its not a major problem on the scale of things.
Soooooo...
Decided to tackle the full set of front control arms (upper & lower), outer tie rod ends and drop links. Tyre wear was dreadful and the car was going all over the road. After inspection, I realised a failed upper bush and split boots on all lower ball joints
Wheel Suspension Repair Kit - MAPCO 59827/1HPS - £180.58 (Amazon Prime). The HPS (High Performance Standard) kit from MAPCO claims to out perform OEM quality.
Took all weekend on the drive!!! Pinch bolts are a pig!!!
Post 4 wheel alignment and she feels like a different car. Steering is very tight, she drives straight and dare I say, she feels new
Before...
And after...
And of course, a wash
Decided to tackle the full set of front control arms (upper & lower), outer tie rod ends and drop links. Tyre wear was dreadful and the car was going all over the road. After inspection, I realised a failed upper bush and split boots on all lower ball joints
Wheel Suspension Repair Kit - MAPCO 59827/1HPS - £180.58 (Amazon Prime). The HPS (High Performance Standard) kit from MAPCO claims to out perform OEM quality.
Took all weekend on the drive!!! Pinch bolts are a pig!!!
Post 4 wheel alignment and she feels like a different car. Steering is very tight, she drives straight and dare I say, she feels new
Before...
And after...
And of course, a wash
Last edited:
Changed the oil on my 58 plate S4 cabriolet.
I bought car last year with 72K, now 79K in 12 months. I don’t do a lot of miles, but car does do long trips once a week.
First, discovered that the undertray was broken.
Oil leak somewhere, everywhere. Passenger side, so hopefully only rocker cover gasket. Going to an independent garage next week to see where the problem actually is.
Oil filter cap and oil sump plug very tight.
Oil filter filthy, oil black as the ace of spades.
Filled with Valvoline semi-synthetic 10W/40 as an engine flush (as recommended by Opie Oils).
I retightened cap to 25Nm (as per cap lettering) and sump plug (new) to 30Nm.
Could someone tell me what the sump plug torque should be for this engine? 30Nm was a figure I found on the web somewhere.
Will change in a week or two with Fuchs 10W/40 fully synthetic (again, Opie Oils recommendation).
Will do 6 monthly oil changes in future irrespective of mileage.
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I bought car last year with 72K, now 79K in 12 months. I don’t do a lot of miles, but car does do long trips once a week.
First, discovered that the undertray was broken.
Oil leak somewhere, everywhere. Passenger side, so hopefully only rocker cover gasket. Going to an independent garage next week to see where the problem actually is.
Oil filter cap and oil sump plug very tight.
Oil filter filthy, oil black as the ace of spades.
Filled with Valvoline semi-synthetic 10W/40 as an engine flush (as recommended by Opie Oils).
I retightened cap to 25Nm (as per cap lettering) and sump plug (new) to 30Nm.
Could someone tell me what the sump plug torque should be for this engine? 30Nm was a figure I found on the web somewhere.
Will change in a week or two with Fuchs 10W/40 fully synthetic (again, Opie Oils recommendation).
Will do 6 monthly oil changes in future irrespective of mileage.
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If you have a good feel for doing up low torque bolts crack on. I have mostly used torque wrench for precise high torque settings.
Sam1989
Registered User
50Nm is what the drain plug should be torqued too with a new crush washer, I thought it felt a bit high so I stopped at 40Nm. Not leaking etc, you might find it leaks less in general with the Fuchs. Mine has massively dropped in consumption and leaking since flushing and using the Fuchs oil.
Used a torque wrench.
New sump plug and washer.
I read 50Nm but was a bit scared to tighten that far.
Will tighten to 40 then see
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New sump plug and washer.
I read 50Nm but was a bit scared to tighten that far.
Will tighten to 40 then see
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We all have a feel for torque if you have done things up all your life.
50Nm does seem high, I would have used my own judgement, especially with a new washer.
I had a few situations where customers would come to me with seized spark plugs.
They swore they torqued them correctly but imo the washer was only just starting to compress.
Hence blow by and seized....
50Nm does seem high, I would have used my own judgement, especially with a new washer.
I had a few situations where customers would come to me with seized spark plugs.
They swore they torqued them correctly but imo the washer was only just starting to compress.
Hence blow by and seized....
Hello again.
Torqued sump plug to 40 then 50 Nm.
Plug hardly moved.
Seems OK.
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Torqued sump plug to 40 then 50 Nm.
Plug hardly moved.
Seems OK.
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Dug a but deeper when a bulb arrived and I hooked things back up.
So that's another job for the list
Soooooo...
Decided to tackle the full set of front control arms (upper & lower), outer tie rod ends and drop links. Tyre wear was dreadful and the car was going all over the road. After inspection, I realised a failed upper bush and split boots on all lower ball joints
Wheel Suspension Repair Kit - MAPCO 59827/1HPS - £180.58 (Amazon Prime). The HPS (High Performance Standard) kit from MAPCO claims to out perform OEM quality.
Took all weekend on the drive!!! Pinch bolts are a pig!!!
Post 4 wheel alignment and she feels like a different car. Steering is very tight, she drives straight and dare I say, she feels new
Before...
And after...
And of course, a wash
Just wondering - in what way were the pinch bolts pigs? Just to undo, or once pout getting the clamp to let go?
Good work, by the way!
The pinch bolts -
The nuts were easy to come off, as per any maint like this I cleaned up the threads first with a steel brush and then applied a liberal amount of wd-40.
The bolts however wouldn't budge, no turning and they wouldn't even drift out. I soaked them everyday for 5 days prior to tackling this job, but you know what, they eventually moved!
A steel bolt through an aluminium alloy hole, a recipe for galvanic corrosion! Don't think these original bolts were coated to prevent this!
A job for the patient, don't snap the bolt off.
The nuts were easy to come off, as per any maint like this I cleaned up the threads first with a steel brush and then applied a liberal amount of wd-40.
The bolts however wouldn't budge, no turning and they wouldn't even drift out. I soaked them everyday for 5 days prior to tackling this job, but you know what, they eventually moved!
A steel bolt through an aluminium alloy hole, a recipe for galvanic corrosion! Don't think these original bolts were coated to prevent this!
A job for the patient, don't snap the bolt off.
Cheers Curtis - forewarned is forearmed and all that!
That's the problem with aluminium when it corrodes - it grows, therefore gripping the bolt.
Electricity+salt+two different metals+water = basic electrolysis.
I wonder if a heat gun or blowtorch would have helped?
That's the problem with aluminium when it corrodes - it grows, therefore gripping the bolt.
Electricity+salt+two different metals+water = basic electrolysis.
I wonder if a heat gun or blowtorch would have helped?
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FMIC hard piping mocked up, now to weld up all the joints.
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Went from this...
To this...
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To this...
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- Joined
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I got it from a seller Sat_nav_deals on eBay. He’s based in Lithuania but sells in £. Under the title it says
2018 Audi S Line S3 RS3 A4 S4 RS4 S5 RS5 SQ5 Flat Bottom PADDLES steering wheel
Can adapt to OLDER from 2004 A3 A4 A5 A6 A8 TT R8 Q5 Q7
I’m in Australia so it was pretty pricey for me but totally plug and play. You give him your car details and he’ll put the right plug on it. 10 minute job. It’s a legit new genuine Audi wheel
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Did it come with air bag?
couriers don't normally accept air bags or items with them especially to and from the UK.
I'm still looking for one but shipping seems to be an issues unless one doesn't state what the contents are.
couriers don't normally accept air bags or items with them especially to and from the UK.
I'm still looking for one but shipping seems to be an issues unless one doesn't state what the contents are.
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That was including airbag, yes. And he knocked £20 off because I asked. I only bought it on Monday and is on the car today in Australia. Came via Germany according to tracking. No issues. I did actually ask before I bought it about postage as I’m aware shipping airbags isn’t usually allowed but apparently they have an arrangement... sent via ups. It’s a lot of money but I haven’t spent much on the old wagon for ages. Been in the shop for the last 2 weeks getting a new front guard, bumper and wheel as an 80 year old granny smashed into it in a car park a couple of weeks ago. All fixed under her insurance
And her Harris crumbled...
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And her Harris crumbled...
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Yeah I’m trying not to think about it! For a Brand new Genuine wheel it’s ok.
Still, I wish PayPal had a breath tester attached to it! Haha. I think every big purchase has been after at least 6 beers. I was blind when I pulled the trigger on my My 17zs a couple years back! Haha
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Started to weld up my intercooler pipes today, had to stop on the third pipe, had a gas leak so will sort that out on monday.
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nice bit of metal work chap, safe to say you're choosen field of work.Started to weld up my intercooler pipes today, had to stop on the third pipe, had a gas leak so will sort that out on monday.
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Thanks mate,
I got the car for free so I thought what the hell - sand and two coats of hi build primer 3 coats of phantom black and 3 of gloss top coat. Only thing is the rest of the car will need cut and buffed to match. Hahah
Attachments
Follow up from my last post.
Car was in the garage yesterday for rocker cover gasket replacement.
Mechanic (best I’ve come across so far) found a couple of bolts were loose (!) and gaskets hardened by age.
Ignition coils dirty and covered in oil, one spark plug would not come out, but cleaned everything and replaced gaskets, no leak now.
Will do timing chains and more next spring.
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Car was in the garage yesterday for rocker cover gasket replacement.
Mechanic (best I’ve come across so far) found a couple of bolts were loose (!) and gaskets hardened by age.
Ignition coils dirty and covered in oil, one spark plug would not come out, but cleaned everything and replaced gaskets, no leak now.
Will do timing chains and more next spring.
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I replaced my knob, the gator is atached to the chrome edging bezel. Remove the chrome trim and unpick the stapels holding attaching the gator to the plastic ring. Pull the gator up over the knob then remove the retaining clip holding the knob to the stick. Simply pull off and reverse to fit the new one.
