What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

boffin486

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Charlie Farley

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Today I decided to try and get to the bottom of the really irritating shaking and vibration from the front end of the old bus.
The front nearside inner CV boot was split anyway so in need of attention, my local motor factor shop ordered me a Borg&Beck cv bootkit which I must say is very good quality and a perfect fit.
So off with the drive shaft and on closer inspection with the inner boot removed the tripod joint seems ok so with plenty of grease still in the joint so repacked it with new grease, and new boot on.
The outer cv joint was not so good despite the boot being ok and not leaking.
With the boot on there was a lot of movement and certainly worn, but when i removed the boot the inners were rattling around a lot and very little grease was to be seen.
Where the grease went is a mystery as the boot wasnt damaged so an odd one really but the joint is worn to the point it needs replacing.
I suspect this is the source of my issues to be honest, I'd discounted the outer CV to a point as the culprit with the inner to blame.
Just to be 100% , I cleaned it up, repacked it with grease and a new boot, refitted the shaft and a test drive later the symptoms were very minimal, safe to say that the outer is the problem.
Probably best to order a pair of complete shafts now rather than just doing the outers, just need to find some decent quality items at a sensible price.
Decided against J&R as they seem to be very poor-quality complete units with a lot of less-than-idea comments across many brands of cars etc.

So a good day in some ways, at least I've found the point of failure, maybe the pothole incident didn't help the joint as the problem ha sonly really come to a head since that crunch.

time for tea and biscuits now.:yes:
 

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Charlie Farley

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Having thought about it more I've realized this is the same outer cv joint that caused me grief back in May 2020 when the shaft decided it wanted to part company from the joint and left me stranded without any forward or backward motion, i wasn't amused at all.
IMG 1112
 

boffin486

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Having thought about it more I've realized this is the same outer cv joint that caused me grief back in May 2020 when the shaft decided it wanted to part company from the joint and left me stranded without any forward or backward motion, i wasn't amused at all.
View attachment 265010
A thought occurs, nothing to do with cars, errrrrrrrrrrrrr.......... I hope you're not calling the wife Piggy Malone............... Sorry. Normal Service can now be resumed.......
07 03 2023 16 33 47
 

Charlie Farley

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In my ongoing quest to solve the rattling/vibrations from the front end I replaced both front shafts with Apec items, they seem to be of good build quality with a 3 year warranty.
A nice easy couple of hours this morning inc tea and biscuit breaks..lo, ive got this shaft removal down to a fine art now.
A quick road test confirms the problem is solved but now i need to get the tracking and wheels balanced as i'm getting a bit of shake , not a lot but given the tire wear it is safe to say my nearside tracking is a mile out.

probably worth keeping the old ones for the new boots fitted in case i need a spare ..
IMG 6596

IMG 6592
 

Charlie Farley

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Whilst I was under the old bus this morning with the undertray removed it looks like a small oil leak from the oil filter housing area, probably the oil cooler, it's only small so i won't mess around with it now.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.

Allways something.
 

Charlie Farley

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Swapped front wheels back onto the rears which means the pothole-damaged tire is now on rear offside, and now the front end is super smooth, the way it should be.
Happy days for now.

Just need to chase SCC about my claim.
 

norad97

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Whilst I was under the old bus this morning with the undertray removed it looks like a small oil leak from the oil filter housing area, probably the oil cooler, it's only small so i won't mess around with it now.
I've an oil filter change etc coming up in May so will probably address it then.

Allways something.
Mine is the same, small leak by oil filter housing, oil is on the block, there's a ledge and found it there,
Me thinks it's the oil filter housing to block, not cheap part.
Found leak showing on the undertray that side of the engine, near the middle.
 

Charlie Farley

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I think it's the same problem Richard and does appear to be a common occurrence with age as seals dry out and leaks occur.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
 

norad97

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I think it's the same problem Richard and does appear to be a common occurrence with age as seals dry out and leaks occur.
I'd do mine when I do the next oil service in May, get it done and out of the way otherwise, it will only get worse and cost more in the long run with another unnecessary oil change etc.
It's just part and parcel of ownership of an older car really.
I looking into doing the oil pump upgrade too whilst i'm messing around in the engine bay.
That's not an easy job, couldn't attempt that job with just trolly Jack's and axel stands?
What upgrade you thinking off?
 

Charlie Farley

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I may opt to use a lift and get all these outstanding jobs done and out of the way.
Not sure which options there still are on the market for the b7 tfsi oil pump solution, may have to do some research into best method.
 

NM07

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I've heard of people replacing the 2.0T oil pump with the stronger, more reliable unit found in the 1.8T? Might be worth investigating.
 

Charlie Farley

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Good call chap. :icon thumright:
 

Charlie Farley

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I have several big tasks to do on the old bus which are more pressing and, to be honest, way more important than fitting the uprated turbo kit, so, i will press on with them.
On the scale of things by doing the crucial maintenance-based work now it will give the old bus a better chance of lasting longer when i fit the uprated turbo kit etc.

I need to address the oil leak from the oil cooler/filter housing thats appeared this weekend.
Oil pump upgrade or similar
new clutch and DMF
possibly look at a new exhaust system now as the oem one is starting to show its age around the back boxes.

thats enough to be getting on with.
 

Charlie Farley

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On reflection, I may just use the engine out method.
I have an engine lift and engine stand and a dry garage to work in.
It sounds like a lot of hassle but in reality, it's the easiest and most cost-effective way to do the work in one hit from a DIY standpoint.
I can do the work over a few days without lift hire charges mounting up etc .
draining the coolant would need doing anyway along with engine oil etc, so its really only the time involved in getting it extracted, saves a lot of doubling up on fluids etc .
 

tr7

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Lot to be said for being able to take your time, in dry conditions, at no cost.

If you've another car it's a no brainer imo

re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
 

norad97

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Lot to be said for being able to take your time, in dry conditions, at no cost.

If you've another car it's a no brainer imo

re: 1.8T oil pump. Read a few accounts of people trying it and not getting the desired oil pressure and having to go back to the standard pump.
Wow, really doing all that work and not successful, then what is the best solution then??
 

Charlie Farley

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Maybe worth going this route
Rip out the oem assembly and inspect for wear and tear then fit this VIS kit.
1678914882670
 

Charlie Farley

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The problem stems around the balance shaft .

  1. The OEM dual mass pulley can break up which will throw the chain off the oil pump and lead to loss of oil pressure, which can quickly destroy an engine.
  2. The balance shafts themselves can seize, especially when frequently driven at high RPM.
so logical solution would be to do the mod.
 

Charlie Farley

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Maybe if a new pump assembly was not excessively costly and the modified kit fitted one would end up with a bullet proof setup.
 

norad97

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Maybe worth going this route
Rip out the oem assembly and inspect for wear and tear then fit this VIS kit.
View attachment 265367
Yes, using free wheel to eliminate the gear sprocket that fails.
I was also looking at Wasa motor, I think these people invented this first.
 

norad97

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Yes, using free wheel to eliminate the gear sprocket that fails.
I was also looking at Wasa motor, I think these people invented this first.
So today I tackled the first job, changing the Cam follower tappet in the HPFP.
Taking the banjo bolt out is a bit tricky, and putting it back as well.
The one I removed had done approximately 36,000 miles, did look that bad, as I'm running Autotech HPFP internals and stage 2 remap.
The cam looked in really good condition, no marks at all.
The sun did come out,,,, after I finished.
 

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Charlie Farley

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Looks about right for the mileage with the BUL engine, and worth replacing it when you did, once they start to wear they go quite quickly.:yes:
 

Charlie Farley

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The Bango bolt setup on the earlier engines is a bit of a pain, but not worth changing given the minimal times the follower needs to be changed.
 

Charlie Farley

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Found some uneven pad wear on my front nearside, on the inner pad more than outer.
I suspect a sticking piston is a most likely suspect, a job for the weekend now.
 

norad97

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Found some uneven pad wear on my front nearside, on the inner pad more than outer.
I suspect a sticking piston is a most likely suspect, a job for the weekend now.
I have really never had a problem on the cars I owned with the front calipers, it's always been the rears sizeing up.
But, I guess the can fail, I have had uneven wear on my fronts, was pointed out to me by the Mot guy a couple years ago,
The pads were leaving the edge of the disk untouched, checked them out and just changed the disks and pads,
Cleaned caliper and greased the slide pins, and all well so far.
The disks and pads came with the car when I bought it, so didn't mind changing them anyway.
 

Charlie Farley

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I suspect the smallest of the 3 inner pistons is sticking a bit, not a massive amount but enough to cause uneven pressure on the pad leading to uneven wear.
just another job on that never end list.
 

norad97

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I suspect the smallest of the 3 inner pistons is sticking a bit, not a massive amount but enough to cause uneven pressure on the pad leading to uneven wear.
just another job on that never end list.
I see, Sorry I forgot you have expensive calipers.
 

Charlie Farley

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And sometimes very problematic Richard, in many ways, still worth the having them though.:yes:

And to be fair they are not really that more expensive than OEM S4 setup.
 

Jamestnewson

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Retrofitted cruise control into the s4 and can't believe how easy it was.

- Add the stalk to the column (already had the correct squib installed as I've got the flappy paddles)
- Code the engine to activate CC
- Code the steering column to tell it CC is now there.

One I did find though is that I had to code the engine first before it would take the steering column coding onboard.
All works though and not bad for a £30 upgrade.
 

Charlie Farley

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Absolutely nothing to the old bus.

laid up with chronic bad back again, I hate getting old.:sadlike:
 

norad97

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Sorry to hear that Rob, you will have to be careful with all the engine jobs you have planned.
I'm not really a back sufferer but still get leg aches and my left shoulder is giving me pain,
Yes getting old is no fun.
 

Charlie Farley

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Sorry to hear that Rob, you will have to be careful with all the engine jobs you have planned.
I'm not really a back sufferer but still get leg aches and my left shoulder is giving me pain,
Yes getting old is no fun.
Unfortunately, my more daring lifestyle when younger has taken its toll on my back, but hey I'll carry on until I cant.
I just try and adapt to the situation, doesn't always work though.
Its the 60 in a few weeks, kinda feel 80 at the moment.
 

Charlie Farley

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Getting the old bus ready for its annual health check.
Ordered 4 new tyres today with my pothole claim payout, and managed to source a set of 4 235/35 19 Continental Sport Contact 5p nearly new for £200 plus fitting so can't really complain. I just don't do the miles these days to justify over £600 for tyres.
Also a new set of rear drilled and grooved rear discs and pads, £78 for discs and pads inc shipping is very accpetable.
hopefully, all i need to get it through this year.

1681244696090
 
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Charlie Farley

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On with the 4 continentals today, alignment tomorrow, a big improvement already over the worn and damaged eagles F1's
:yahoo:
 

Charlie Farley

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On the tire front, the Continental Sport Contact 5p seem like a good option from my initial driving impressions.
I've seen a lot of negative reviews on them but most are 2wd fitments reviews, from my seat of the pants driving on the Quattro bus they are fine, maybe require a slightly different driving approach in the wet but just a learning curve really.
Maybe not as good as my eagle f1's when they were new but a massive improvement over the worn ones.
maybe a slightly hard rubber compound than the eagles.
I'm happy with them and at the price and the milage i cover now it's a no-brainer really.
happy days.
 

norad97

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On with the 4 continentals today, alignment tomorrow, a big improvement already over the worn and damaged eagles F1's
:yahoo:
Were did you get the tyres?
 

Charlie Farley

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Just a random look on fleabay Richard, and found a nice chap selling them, only a 40 min drive so it all worked out really well, which makes a change. :yahoo:
 

Charlie Farley

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a431dcede2efedfd301464b055fb3c3e.jpg

Trying some q5 20s in an 8 meant they cleared the wishbone ,v skinny tyres tho


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They will be a nightmare on our pothole-ridden roads James, it's bad enough with 35's let alone even lower profile.
 
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