What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?

[Charlie Farley]

 

[Charlie Farley]

this becomes the new location of the PCV delete return.

 

[Charlie Farley]

End result is that all this gunk is kept out of the engine and more importantly not fed back into the intake and combustion cycle.

 

[norad97]

Ok, Remove the pipe from the valve cover, and check for oil??

 

[Charlie Farley]

I would Richard.

 

[norad97]

Ok I will check, when it's not to cold.

 

[Charlie Farley]

 

[Luke Smith A4 2.0T]

Braved the cold today and fitted an 034 motorsports snub mount and cage. The old bush had certainly seen better days and the OEM cage looks excessively big.

Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

 

[swisstony]

Nice work
Mine was the same

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Charlie Farley]

The polyurethane foam oem item is only good for a few years at a time.
For those that want something better than the oem bung but not quite as firm as the 034 or power flex items, the A6 bung is an excellent compromise

 

[norad97]

I would Richard.

Just to confirm, I disconnect the pipe at the valve cover, the large rubber pipe with the metal pipe attached, then what??

 

[Charlie Farley]

Its been a while since i've messed around with it , but just remove the rubber turbo intake pipe so you have better access to the two screws securing the metal flexipipe to the turbo , and remove the top fixing and thats it , of comes the pipe.

 

[Charlie Farley]

with the pipe off you will be able to see inside it if there is any oil residue ,and with the rubber turbo intake pipe removed you can see if whats its like in there.

 

[norad97]

Ok Thanks.

 

[eel]

Hi all,

Just got an AV upgrade on the car finished.
-Kenwood DMX8020DABS head unit with DAB aerial
- JL Audio C2-650 FR component speaker set for the front
- JL CP110LG-TW1-2 subwoofer/enclosure
- JL Audio XD500/3v2 amplifier running the fronts and Subwoofer
- JL Audio RLC remote bass level adjuster for amp

No pircutres of the font speakers as they are just behind the OEM grill. Sub is secured as you can see with a bit of bungee.

Front doors and boot have been soundproofed as well.

 

[Rob Avant]

Hi all,

Just got an AV upgrade on the car finished.
-Kenwood DMX8020DABS head unit with DAB aerial
- JL Audio C2-650 FR component speaker set for the front
- JL CP110LG-TW1-2 subwoofer/enclosure
- JL Audio XD500/3v2 amplifier running the fronts and Subwoofer
- JL Audio RLC remote bass level adjuster for amp

No pircutres of the font speakers as they are just behind the OEM grill. Sub is secured as you can see with a bit of bungee.

Front doors and boot have been soundproofed as well.

Can’t beat a good audio upgrade, the OEM setups on these cars are poor even with Bose. I’m running those JL C2 650’s in the back on my system, good speakers. Dynomat’ing the doors is a must when running an active set up, sounds so much better with sound deadening

 

[eel]

Can’t beat a good audio upgrade, the OEM setups on these cars are poor even with Bose. I’m running those JL C2 650’s in the back on my system, good speakers. Dynomat’ing the doors is a must when running an active set up, sounds so much better with sound deadening

Yeah the soundproofing has made a crazy difference. I am super happy with it.

Next step for me is stage 2.

 

[Jamsmoo]

18mm rarb replaced for 22mm rs4 one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Charlie Farley]

let us know your impressions of it over standard arb.

 

[Jamsmoo]

let us know your impressions of it over standard arb.

Didn’t have time for a proper go but just been for a quick blast , back end felt immediately tighter and more planted ,looking forward to a run out soon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jamsmoo]

That rear valance has still escaped my attention


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jamsmoo]

New lower front arms today as yearly test is coming up and it was an advisory last year
These cars always have a few surprises in store when it comes to suspension jobs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Charlie Farley]

New lower front arms today as yearly test is coming up and it was an advisory last year
These cars always have a few surprises in store when it comes to suspension jobs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have been busy bee James.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Ordered an add-on for the Alpine HU, probably never use it but worth a go.

 

[B7Tourer]

Ever since my 2.0 TDI Avant had the KMB oil pump and hex key upgrade, about 10K ago, I've been waiting for the low oil level warning. Before it would always come about 6K after a service and a bit less than a litre would sort it. But nothing! And so I got paranoid that the sensor was damaged or left unconnected with the mod. But using the old fashioned method of dipstick, that I had put off, since being a lazy so and so, revealed no. It was still at max level. I don't know what they did and whether new sump sealant helped but I reckon that's pretty good on the old goat, now clocking 240K.

I noticed at the same time the coolant, though, was on min level - for the first time in years of ownership. I can't recall checking it since the mod, so I hope it's just natural expansion (no oil in water or vice versa, in case you wondered). So off to the petrol station for some G12 ready mix. I slightly overfilled it beyond max. So reading all the usual paranoid sh1t on the net, I decided I had to syphon some off. YouTube, as ever is your friend - with it's help and despite having almost zero DIY skills, I have fixed my blown cooker, central heating boiler and two toilet ballcocks, for very next to zero pennies. I found a genius who had the simple yet brilliant idea, most of you surely already know, of taking the spray nozzle off some cleaning product, running clear water through it and then spraying the excess coolant out to a jar. Pleased with such a simple accomplishment, as we often are. Happy holidays everyone!

 

[norad97]

Had to get under the car today, reason, when I lifted the bonnet to the expansion bottle was almost empty.
I remember a few months back the the coolant level had dropped a bit, topped it up but was concerned why it was low.
Checked from the top of the engine, nothing found, rear coolant flange looks good, bell housing top is dry.
So today, put the car on axel stands, checked all the hoses with the car hot and found nothing.
Looking at the undertray there is wet on the right of the centre which seems to be right side of the engine,
having a good look arround that area I found it wet on the engine block, see attached picture.
It's also wet on the sump below that area so it must be running down, so thinking it might be oil filter housing to block.
Anyone experienced this issue, I read changing the gasket may not cure this as the housing is plastic and can distort over time

any help or advise much appreciated.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Had to get under the car today, reason, when I lifted the bonnet to the expansion bottle was almost empty.
I remember a few months back the the coolant level had dropped a bit, topped it up but was concerned why it was low.
Checked from the top of the engine, nothing found, rear coolant flange looks good, bell housing top is dry.
So today, put the car on axel stands, checked all the hoses with the car hot and found nothing.
Looking at the undertray there is wet on the right of the centre which seems to be right side of the engine,
having a good look arround that area I found it wet on the engine block, see attached picture.
It's also wet on the sump below that area so it must be running down, so thinking it might be oil filter housing to block.
Anyone experienced this issue, I read changing the gasket may not cure this as the housing is plastic and can distort over time

any help or advise much appreciated.

The oil cooler mounts to the front of that part as well and it's not uncommon for the gasket seal on that joint to leak with age so the engine block joint will most likely be in the same situation.
Its not a cheap part so maybe worth trying a new gasket seal first and go from there, best replace the front seal to.

 

[norad97]

Hi Rob, so you recommend replacing oil filter housing gasket to block, and oil cooler gasket to housing.
..

 

[Charlie Farley]

Indeed.
you will need to remove the oil cooler first anyway to get the filter housing off to change the block joint seal so changing both is the best practice really as the front seal will be close to failing now.

 

[Charlie Farley]

have a look at this link Richard from @Bradderz_1988
Highlights what need doing.

page 1 halfway down.

Brads A4 B7 DTM progress thread

Thought id start a progress thread for my DTM as my cars never seem to stay standard for long have a look at my B5 thread if you fancy a read sadly its been scrapped had big plans for it but it never panned out the way i was hoping loved that car hopefully this DTM will fill its shoes for some...

www.audi-sport.net

 

[norad97]

Yes, looked but he replaced the oil filter housing and oil cooler,
His part No for the housing is 06F 115 397K so it must be revised part as mine is 06F 115 397H.
Did he not try gaskets first??

 

[Charlie Farley]

the upto date part is 06F 115 397 H

His DTM has the earlier BUL engine so possibly had an earlier revision part.
Not sure what leak he was suffering from possibly decided to just replace both to cover all possible failures etc.

 

[norad97]

Anyone had success by changing the gaskets only??

 

[Charlie Farley]

other revisions .
Previous Revisions

• 06F115397H
• 06F115397F
• 06F115397J

Cross Reference

• 06F115397J

 

[Charlie Farley]

Anyone had success by changing the gaskets only??

If I was considering just a seal replacement I'd be checking the mating surfaces on the front and back of the unit to see if it is flat, any sign of distortorsion will confirm the complete assembly needs changing.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Given the thickness of the seal , provided its tightened down properly i think its going to be a good seal, unless the plastic unit has become that deformed or damaged in which case the leak would be a lot more than a small seap.

 

[norad97]

Yes, I agree need to check the main parts when they are off.

 

[B7Tourer]

Looking at the undertray there is wet on the right of the centre which seems to be right side of the engine,
having a good look arround that area I found it wet on the engine block, see attached picture.

I can't see any leaks in mine. I think possibly the min level is a result of only having used the heater recently. I had a new matrix fitted at the same time as the new A/C compressor and for the first time over the last couple of months heating as been on. It took very little liquid to go from min to over max too. But it's going for a service imminently, so I'll have it double checked. The coolant is fresh, since it was flushed and replenished at the time.

 

[Jamsmoo]

Another advisory from last year was front disks
I’m embarrassed to say that I had a quick look and I thought they looked ok(ish) and they were being overzealous
Thought better safe than sorry so just collected new pagid disks and pads.Outer face didn’t look too bad but I’ve never seen anything like the inside ,almost like they’ve delaminated.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Charlie Farley]

Another advisory from last year was front disks
I’m embarrassed to say that I had a quick look and I thought they looked ok(ish) and they were being overzealous
Thought better safe than sorry so just collected new pagid disks and pads.Outer face didn’t look too bad but I’ve never seen anything like the inside ,almost like they’ve delaminated.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What were your pads like as if inside disk face was well worn along with more pad wear on inside pad would suggest possibly seized or sticking piston, worth checking.