sounds like a plan Rob, very wise as were are going to have a nasty winter this year, trust me. 
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Also thinking I might do the S4 rear break conversion at the same time. Just need to find some decent callipers first
Good luck with finding a good used set Rob.
I gave up long ago as they were all tat and sellers seem to think because they are from an S4 they can quadruple the asking price, doesn't work with me.
I gave up long ago as they were all tat and sellers seem to think because they are from an S4 they can quadruple the asking price, doesn't work with me.
Given the marginal gains and the expense , new discs, calipers with very a high possibilty they would need full refurb and very likely new brake lines , i'm not sure its worth it but personal choice really.
there is a kit on the market that supplies new larger than S4 rear discs and caliper parts which is a much more viable upgrade from an actual gains point of view and look great, but again its the wallet bashing that hurts.
Interesting, I’ve not seen this kit. Could be an option if I fancy destroying the wallet which this wagon has done plenty of times recently!
I have been looking for some time and as you say, they are either complete junk or massively over priced.
I’m sure it’s probably not that bigger gain in stopping power either.
I’ll put it to the back of the never ending list for now
from my understanding Rob it just balances out things when using BBK kits, how much depends on how hard you brake really, 18z are very good as is and to be honest i've not noticed much difference, but then i kinda read the road now so avoid jumping on them if possible.
Logically it make sense as S4 fronts are 345's with larger piston calipers so slightly larger rears would be correct, i found my 18z'sto be much more progressive with really good bite , better than S4 fronts so maybe thats why i dont notice rears.
Maybe just me though..lol
Logically it make sense as S4 fronts are 345's with larger piston calipers so slightly larger rears would be correct, i found my 18z'sto be much more progressive with really good bite , better than S4 fronts so maybe thats why i dont notice rears.
Maybe just me though..lol
They would certainly look awesome aswell as work as good as they look.
Wallet bashing to the max.
that said, if ones rear disks are worn and need replacing its not such an expense outlay but still a bit steep.
Wallet bashing to the max.
that said, if ones rear disks are worn and need replacing its not such an expense outlay but still a bit steep.
I think the 18z’s are epic, so much better than the stock set up. I sure I don’t need any extra stopping power really and at that price I don’t think I’ll bother. The S4 set up would be good if a cheap decent set every appears. I’m not holding my breath though
Whilst pulling the old bus apart this evening looking for a USB stick hiding somewhere, a quick look into the armrest provided no luck but it did highlight a function I'd forgotten about for some time.
It's illuminated, small led in the lid shines a red beam into the tray, a nice touch in the dark indeedy.
probably another one of those options that most of us never really notice.
It's illuminated, small led in the lid shines a red beam into the tray, a nice touch in the dark indeedy.
probably another one of those options that most of us never really notice.
Out with the nearly new sony head unit, reversing cam and mic from the S4 and back in with the original RNSe unit.
will be selling the sony and B7 fitting kit if anyone is interested.
will be selling the sony and B7 fitting kit if anyone is interested.
And before anyone says it, yes the whole car needs a full decontamination, clean and beyond.
A good tip to remove the remaining anti glare coating around the perimeter of the screen on the RNS-e is to use some very light automotive paint polish. I used Dodo Juice Lime Prime on the RNS-e in my last B7 to clear up the remaining coating and it left the screen looking perfect. Just make sure not to use anything with serious abrasives in like a compound, or T-Cut.
I'll give that a go then, well once I've got it to a state of cleanliness that is acceptable.
In the 5th year of owning my old girl and still loving her with the 155K and climbing 
Carried out Oil Change service and Pre-MOT Inspection this week
Front Shocks, Front Pads, Tie Rod Ends, ARB Drop Links, RH Lower Arms, Inner CV Joint Boot, Rear Bump Stops and Dust Covers and RH Engine Mount.
Quite a bit needed doing but then she flew through MOT and drives like an absolute dream!
Feeling very very smug!!! Got loads of my parts off Amazon including the B4 Bilstein Shocks for £45.77 each
Carried out Oil Change service and Pre-MOT Inspection this week
Front Shocks, Front Pads, Tie Rod Ends, ARB Drop Links, RH Lower Arms, Inner CV Joint Boot, Rear Bump Stops and Dust Covers and RH Engine Mount.
Quite a bit needed doing but then she flew through MOT and drives like an absolute dream!
Feeling very very smug!!! Got loads of my parts off Amazon including the B4 Bilstein Shocks for £45.77 each
well worth doing indeed.In the 5th year of owning my old girl and still loving her with the 155K and climbing
Carried out Oil Change service and Pre-MOT Inspection this week
Front Shocks, Front Pads, Tie Rod Ends, ARB Drop Links, RH Lower Arms, Inner CV Joint Boot, Rear Bump Stops and Dust Covers and RH Engine Mount.
Quite a bit needed doing but then she flew through MOT and drives like an absolute dream!
Feeling very very smug!!! Got loads of my parts off Amazon including the B4 Bilstein Shocks for £45.77 each
View attachment 260770
View attachment 260771
Whilst servicing I picked up these codes running my OBDEleven.
P1577 Audi Code - Engine Mounting Control Solenoid Bank 1 Open Circuit (Soft Code)
Fixed via new RH Engine Mount - Have been carrying this fault for over 4 years when I first purchased the car but I started to get a clunking sound on acceleration and sometimes braking. I had also noticed a lot of oil leaking out of this electronically controlled Hydro Bearing Engine Mount. Replaced with non electronically controlled Febi 36689 item as OEM ones were circa £200. Noise gone, less vibrations and I tricked the ECU by cutting the plug off the old mounting with my Dremmel, plugging it back into the loom and tie wrapping it out of the way!
P1018 Audi Code - Intake Manifold Runner Bank 2 Lower Limit Not Reached (Hard Code)
For sure I am not buying new swirl flap actuators! So got these instead and will let you know how it goes! They arrive today
Recommended by Ubor here --> Air Intake Manifold Flap Repair Bracket - 3.0 TDI
P1577 Audi Code - Engine Mounting Control Solenoid Bank 1 Open Circuit (Soft Code)
Fixed via new RH Engine Mount - Have been carrying this fault for over 4 years when I first purchased the car but I started to get a clunking sound on acceleration and sometimes braking. I had also noticed a lot of oil leaking out of this electronically controlled Hydro Bearing Engine Mount. Replaced with non electronically controlled Febi 36689 item as OEM ones were circa £200. Noise gone, less vibrations and I tricked the ECU by cutting the plug off the old mounting with my Dremmel, plugging it back into the loom and tie wrapping it out of the way!
P1018 Audi Code - Intake Manifold Runner Bank 2 Lower Limit Not Reached (Hard Code)
For sure I am not buying new swirl flap actuators! So got these instead and will let you know how it goes! They arrive today
Recommended by Ubor here --> Air Intake Manifold Flap Repair Bracket - 3.0 TDI
A few more jobs were ticked off the S4 list.
Drained out enough engine oil to bring the level down to just around midway on the dipstick, which was well over a litre, why it was overfilled is beyond me.
refitted all new relays and fuses etc, and the now hopefully dried-out ecu.
tested the numberplate bulb holder assembly and with some minor work its good to go now.
Firing it this evening and another vcds scan to see what is logged now.
new wiper blades on route for tomorrow.
will need to get serious with the undertray as its pretty bad with thick oil,there is no way thats is just from a few months, the amount and thickness on it ,looks like it has been accumulating over a few years.
Drained out enough engine oil to bring the level down to just around midway on the dipstick, which was well over a litre, why it was overfilled is beyond me.
refitted all new relays and fuses etc, and the now hopefully dried-out ecu.
tested the numberplate bulb holder assembly and with some minor work its good to go now.
Firing it this evening and another vcds scan to see what is logged now.
new wiper blades on route for tomorrow.
will need to get serious with the undertray as its pretty bad with thick oil,there is no way thats is just from a few months, the amount and thickness on it ,looks like it has been accumulating over a few years.
A vcds scan just completed and only 1 fault showing now, a single wire fault in the driver's door control module.
thats a massive improvement over the 32 faults that were logged.
bad new is that the engine rattle is not good and i'm not convinced it is the cam chain/tensioners . sound more like an autobox problem as its worse when in drive or reverse but cant be heard when in Park idling etc, but really noisy on every start up.
thats a massive improvement over the 32 faults that were logged.
bad new is that the engine rattle is not good and i'm not convinced it is the cam chain/tensioners . sound more like an autobox problem as its worse when in drive or reverse but cant be heard when in Park idling etc, but really noisy on every start up.
Going to give the engine a good degreasing and pressure wash tomorrow just so be able to see the metal from the crud.
It did cross my mind that maybe it's a flywheel issue, or at least the auto version of a flywheel.
I think its called a Flexi plate or something with a torque converter bolt to it.
I think its called a Flexi plate or something with a torque converter bolt to it.
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Whilst servicing I picked up these codes running my OBDEleven.
P1577 Audi Code - Engine Mounting Control Solenoid Bank 1 Open Circuit (Soft Code)
Fixed via new RH Engine Mount - Have been carrying this fault for over 4 years when I first purchased the car but I started to get a clunking sound on acceleration and sometimes braking. I had also noticed a lot of oil leaking out of this electronically controlled Hydro Bearing Engine Mount. Replaced with non electronically controlled Febi 36689 item as OEM ones were circa £200. Noise gone, less vibrations and I tricked the ECU by cutting the plug off the old mounting with my Dremmel, plugging it back into the loom and tie wrapping it out of the way!
P1018 Audi Code - Intake Manifold Runner Bank 2 Lower Limit Not Reached (Hard Code)
For sure I am not buying new swirl flap actuators! So got these instead and will let you know how it goes! They arrive today
Recommended by Ubor here --> Air Intake Manifold Flap Repair Bracket - 3.0 TDI
View attachment 260772
These really did work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
See here --> Air Intake Manifold Flap Repair Bracket - 3.0 TDI
Happy Happy Boy
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Some more work done on the DTM this week. New bosch N80, new genuine thermostat, new coolant tank as the old one was yellow, new gates aux belt and tensioner, fresh vag coolant and a new genuine VVT solenoid as the seal had failed and it was leaking oil through the electrical connector and into the loom. Took a bit of time to bleed up but got there in the end.
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Washed the S4 bus, new wipers all ready for an MOT.
If it passes that will be a bonus.
I doubt I'll be keeping it though, I've something more interesting in the pipeline with less work required.
If it passes that will be a bonus.
I doubt I'll be keeping it though, I've something more interesting in the pipeline with less work required.
After all the suspension work I did last week she was driving straight, but not necessarily true!!!
Counting threads on the tie rod ends got her almost there on the front, but not fully
Had way too much toe in and she was a little skittish to say the least.
Got a full 4 Wheel Alignment carried out and now she feels reallllllly good.
The B4 Sport Bilsteins plus new tie rod ends/arms/arbs are without doubt an improvement over the leaking S-Line Shocks with 155k on them!
She is tight
Counting threads on the tie rod ends got her almost there on the front, but not fully
Had way too much toe in and she was a little skittish to say the least.Got a full 4 Wheel Alignment carried out and now she feels reallllllly good.
The B4 Sport Bilsteins plus new tie rod ends/arms/arbs are without doubt an improvement over the leaking S-Line Shocks with 155k on them!
She is tight
Me thinks I may well be needing to do some of those same jobs myself soon. Interested where you got the following parts from at such a good price as I cant see to find the same .In the 5th year of owning my old girl and still loving her with the 155K and climbing
Carried out Oil Change service and Pre-MOT Inspection this week
Front Shocks, Front Pads, Tie Rod Ends, ARB Drop Links, RH Lower Arms, Inner CV Joint Boot, Rear Bump Stops and Dust Covers and RH Engine Mount.
Quite a bit needed doing but then she flew through MOT and drives like an absolute dream!
Feeling very very smug!!! Got loads of my parts off Amazon including the B4 Bilstein Shocks for £45.77 each
View attachment 260770
View attachment 260771
Namely : B4 Bilstein Shocks for £45.77 each. ( I assume this is for front and rear )
Rear Bump Stops and Dust Covers
I have sorted the tie rod ends from your list as mine are perished
cheers
I was very lucky with getting my front Bilsteins on Amazon!!! They pretty much doubled in price after I bought them.
As for the rear bump stops/dust covers, again I was very smart on Amazon and got them for £6.07 (pair). They are now £13.31 (5% voucher available). Available ->Rear Dust Cover Shock Buffer. Although listed for B5/B6 variants, I fitted these to my B7 Avant with no issues what so ever! Came embossed with the part number 3B0 512 131 H. These are the longer variants for the non S-Line models with standard suspension.
The ones fitted to my car had the part number 4F0 512 131 A (Sports Suspension). The difference is simply the length. These are approx. 20mm longer, but as I carry no weight in the rear of my car they are perfect!
As for the rear bump stops/dust covers, again I was very smart on Amazon and got them for £6.07 (pair). They are now £13.31 (5% voucher available). Available ->Rear Dust Cover Shock Buffer. Although listed for B5/B6 variants, I fitted these to my B7 Avant with no issues what so ever! Came embossed with the part number 3B0 512 131 H. These are the longer variants for the non S-Line models with standard suspension.
The ones fitted to my car had the part number 4F0 512 131 A (Sports Suspension). The difference is simply the length. These are approx. 20mm longer, but as I carry no weight in the rear of my car they are perfect!
Ah now I see why I couldnt find the same prices, damn Amazon for doubling the price !!!
As for the bump stops mine is an S-line so guess the ones you got will be too long. I will keep looking
Ah now I see why I couldnt find the same prices, damn Amazon for doubling the price !!!
As for the bump stops mine is an S-line so guess the ones you got will be too long. I will keep looking
Mine is an S-Line too but I have no fear of bottoming out as I carry no pax in the rear!
Part number to look for is 4F0 512 131 A
Hope this all helps!
It does indeed, thank you. All I need are the front and rear shocks, bump stops and covers for the rears and the two tie rod ends for the fronts and that should be it. The springs are all good.
If you have the original OE springs still fitted then you would be wise to change them aswell,
They look original ?
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They do indeed!
My bump stops were still in very good condition on the fronts so I kept the originals. The rears are more prone to degradation as they are more exposed to the elements!
any suggestions for OEM springs ( not interested in coilvers or lowering at this stage) that will be either the same quality or an upgrade to what I have now ? and if I am looking to refresh the rear shocks, would it also be wise to refresh the rear springs ?
