What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

Was told its mechanical.. So has nothing to do with ecu..
Ecu is flashed with these injectors. The Old ones where in spec with block 18 and 23, but where old and a bit off in idle regulation, around +2.00mg/str in one cylinder..

But now, “new” injectors and brand new complete cylinder head, and **** is acting up...

Should perhaps learn how to swap injectors instead of paying the ship each time
 
Been looking at the Bosch Numbers..
They are different from each other although they are called 038130073AL (vw number)

Could that be the cause??
 
spent most of the day trying to fit and code MFSW and cruise.

Cant login to ABS controller

just wont accept the correct code 01012 written down on full scan before i started

so i cant program the scsm and move forward.
so cant use car tomorrow.

its a used SCSM from another car.
a new B7 clock spring
a B7 MFSW (don't say it i have an 8V wheel on the way)

stuck :(

have done 1 before for a mate but not my own.

I have a fully registered VCDS Lite (Is that why ?)
its worked on others
 
Been looking at the Bosch Numbers..
They are different from each other although they are called 038130073AL (vw number)

Could that be the cause??
Going back a bit and memory not best! But remember coding each injector in when did mine.
It could be if using lite, you will be limited also on how many vehicles iirc .
 
as i understood it VCDS Lite properly registered is pretty much the same apart from unable to code slave modules (whatever that means)

i dont remember any previous issues.

just wont accept the code at all.
im hoping its not asking for the code from the vehicle it came off as i obv dont have that

i recoded my ABS before when i fitted the 320 fr and 288 rear brakes 1LA and 1KW rear
and that worked fine
 
It’s definitely a genuine part ? Not aftermarket ? Sorry of no use to help here.
 
Damn not sure , sorry. I can see it being something obvious! One of them that you put your head in your hands when figured out!
 
used SWCM 8E0 953 549 N (which support DIS/Cruise an 3 spoke MFSW according to VCDS Wiki)
A4 B7 MFSW with correct B7 loom and airbag.
Brand new B7 slipring unit 4E0 953 541 B which (changed yellow plug for B7 yellow plug)
unit on top of steering column that plugs into SWCM near top/rear of wiper stalk

Unable to login to ABS Brakes 03 with correct code i wrote down from full scan before changes.

VCDS Lite fully registered to me ie legit not ebay crap copy.

Have coded ABS before when i upgraded to TFSi brakes

come on someone !
 
Little update on the Pro S which is a little weird! Noticed last couple of days it’s gone much quieter. This morning was pretty cold, windscreen froze anyway. So if anything it should be a little noisier if anything. Yet under a second rattle and faint! Maybe it takes a while to get the ester coating on the chains and tensioners. Only thing I can think of. Either way happier and not feeling I have wasted £80 as much now.
Hope you get to the bottom of your problem cobra , sounds like progress so far.
 
I have 3 motorbikes and a VW T3 Bus that does 18mpg so an S4 is a step too far for me :)

PS tried to get Gaz's Bargain oil from my local ASDA ............nope :(



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Snow foam Friday! Ordered a K2, pro kleen foam lance, decided on the autoglym polar wash from reviews.
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Got this to try at some point
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Did not use it yet as has wax in, wanted ph neutral so i can carry on using the ceramic wet wax as normal ,without any wax on from washing.
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Should have used warm water not cold, learning curve!
100ml i tried in the 1 litre bottle
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Rinse off, ceramic TW , job done
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i fixed my retrofit issues

Basically the VCDS wiki said i could use a MFSW with an N codes steering wheel control box.
in truth i needed a Q or R coded box for it all to work.

All done now and Audi A1 steering wheel with single stage Airbag.
 
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Nice 1 cobra, i am sure your buzzing.

Nothing exciting but decided to have another snow foam go! This time tried the orange pro kleen stuff.
Went wrong last time with the autoglym, used 100ml in 1 litre bottle(should have been at least 200ml) used cold water, should have been warm!. Wet car first before applying foam!should be dry......finally had TW ceramic on, so will never stick too well anyway.
This time used 300ml per 1 litre, used warm water to fill up. No soaking first, foam straight on. A lot still slid off due to the TW, but more stayed on this time.
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Also bought a 10m power hose, the 4m one was a pita, had to keep moving the karcher around. Now i can set up, plenty now to get all around and some.
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Will get there eventually !!!!
 
haha being a snow foam newbie do you need to run warm water through the pressure washer or do you just add it to the bottle when diluting?
Managed to grab a decent karcher bargain on ebay K5 premium.
 
haha being a snow foam newbie do you need to run warm water through the pressure washer or do you just add it to the bottle when diluting?
Managed to grab a decent karcher bargain on ebay K5 premium.

Total noob here lol. No, just in the bottle. Usually it’s a 1/3 mix, so if a litre bottle around 300ml or so. Use warm/ hot water from tap, connect. Then adjust the dial to mostly open, take a little experimenting.
Ideally straight onto car so it sticks better, cover then leave for 5-10mims. Rinse off, then hand wash. Idea is to remove any bits to avoid swirls etc. But there are pre wash snow foams, it can get expensive! I use it, then go around with a mitt agitating the more stubborn grime. Rinse off, then apply the turtle wax ceramic wet wax straight away. Couple of squirts on panel, micro fibre it around, /2nd micro fibre to buff . It dries the car as you go and takes no time at all. Also on top of protecting paint etc , it makes it easier to wash the next time. Highly recommend theTW wet ceramic , £18 from Halfords or Amazon etc and goes a long long way!
 
never tried all this new fangled magic

only been driving for 40 years though ;)
Rick
Prior I just used a wash n wax type, Tesco or what ever. Don’t know why but just decided to try some new products for a change. No regrets Rick, some good stuff out right now. Believe or not, I am not into spending ages cleaning. Quick wash and wet wax is enough for me, 20-30 mins max!
 
Thanks for the info Ven, I'm interested for the same reason's, I loath wasting hour's of my life washing cars so I'm looking for a speedy option. Once I have a couple of bits sorted my plan is to get someone else to detail my car and I will then get them to Hydro coat it so in the future I will just have to sprinkle some fairy dust on it and rinse off so to speak hahaha
 
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Yes exact same , but I like a clean car. My interior the same, I’m anal and a little ocd with it. I don’t want to waste a Sunday (could think of nothing worse) fully valeting my car! My weekend tends to be mostly days off, mowing lawns and washing cars, I don’t want to take it up!
The snow foam does not save time , however it is more fun and certainly more satisfying . I have heard that some foams can help perish rubber over time. As I use the TW ceramic, I use a ph neutral shampoo and would advise the same. Some that clean the best may have stronger chemicals in. Who knows! But I don’t want to find out the hard way in a few years time. There are pre wash and wash snow foams, then ones with waxes etc in. The autoglym is a good one which is ph neutral and around £11 for 2.5L. Compare to say Chem guys at £20 for 1L, and on average using 200-300ml a time, can soon become expensive . So read up, read up more and decided on the autoglym foam.

For £18 I recommend Turtle wax ceramic wet wax. There is one to apply to a dry car, but then you have to dry it or wait for it to dry = more time! So once you have covered in foam, leave for 5 mins or so, then with a bucket, go around and wash with a mitt. This agitates and helps clean more stubborn grime . Then rinse with karcher. When done your car is wet, a panel or 2 at a time, 2 squirts of TW ceramic, micro cloth spread around panel. A 2nd one to buff off /polish . Repeat keeping the micro fibres separate, so having a few micro fibre cloths helps(pack of 10 for under £10 off Amazon ). Once done your car is coated and dry . Water beads nicely and protected up to 6 months, but they recommend once a month. As it’s cheap, quick to do, I simply do it each wash ,to build up the coating(fine to do so).
My methods are not pro by any means, it’s what works well for me and has good results. I can be done in 20-30 mins, inc dressing tyres(meguires is good stuff and so is their allocator).
 
Very smart cobra

Haha no problem, will do for free, just need petrol money
 
Replaced turbo..changed to braided line for the oil feed (was a ball ache to put in). Inlet mani painted red turbo mani painted black egr delete and can now start driving the car from tomorow
 

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Replaced turbo..changed to braided line for the oil feed (was a ball ache to put in). Inlet mani painted red turbo mani painted black egr delete and can now start driving the car from tomorow


Looks great, happy days! Enjoy the drive:icon thumright:
 
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So i noticed a small white smudge on the rear heated controls(behind the arm rest in back). I go to clean it and the black paint just rubs off:wtf: Not impressed, i think it is either one of the kids catching it with their shoes, or me being clumsy with the disklok. So had a brainwave, as trying to paint or touch up with permanent marker...........never looks right. Bought some cf stickers, usually for bikes. Yes its 1mm over to left, not perfect centre as the flaking was to that side. I might cut some out of a bigger piece at some point. But for now it will do, does what i needed .

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It does not stand out as much as it shows, flash on phone exaggerates it!. But its easier on my eye(not that i see it much lol) than flaky paint!

Oh and there is on control on ebay with cf, £155 used, hence my £5 pack of stickers!
 
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Sorry to hear , damn. Hopefully then after that all will be good!
I hope so dont seem to be having much luck at the moment. I have a transit recovery truck hand brake cable snapped last week need to take off the back 4 wheels take drums off and do the cable. Have an s3 8l rear doff locking up changed the oil last week ran fine. A plastic t piece for the rad hoses decided to break so replaced today and now diff playing up again. And the a4 issues aswell. Turbo was fed when I bought it finally changed and now clutch needs replacing. I unlike many others was actually having a decent 2020. Started my own recovery business and everyrhing(all thanks to god and family) and then 2020 decides to plop on me all at once lol (but still all thanks to God and family)
 
New news lol. New clutch and flywheel. Drive shafts decent to cr*p themselves. So will also need replacing
 
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Hopefully the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched back on!

Not been on much, but last thing i did was the little rear window jet. Mine didnt work, blocked. So took off and soaked for ages in WD. Gunk and stuff came out, but still never fully clear. With it off, would make for some comedy moments at traffic lights! Nice jet of water several metres back!. So i grew impatient fast, bought a couple off amazon under £10 and UK stock. I wont lie and say the jet alignment was easy. Prob took me 15 mins to get almost happy!
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Now i can wash my rear end:rock:

Hope everyone is well in all this crazy:icon thumright:
 
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Hope everyone is good, couple of jobs done and a lucky find!
First of all a fresh MOT, only thing was a very slight mist on n/s front shocker. Not sure really what to do with that one. Said its nothing and smallest amount so dont worry! Well im not going to rush out buying 2 new bilstein shockers anyway. Said he loves it, doesn't see many and mint! Will do for me, i like piece of mind.
Now i had an econ light come on, obv an issue as its putting the compressor into a safety mode. Carista showed nothing, so needed VCDS. In the time i was sorting that, a little research led to 2 things. Obv a leak! or what seemed common was the high pressure sensor...........this one!
Can see corrosion
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Can see the little pin inside, this when removed shuts a valve, stopping gas escaping
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So if you have an econ light on, you can actually do this job at home, bumper in service mode. Just check and double check audi send the right sensor. As there has been numerous upgrades or versions over the years! which i found out the hard way. They sent the wrong updated one:whistle2:

Which brings me onto job 2! As you do, you have a look around , now before the bumper was undone, i tried spraying the sensor with elec clean(to no avail) but noticed the alternator belt(only belt on the v8). At 1st glance it look frayed right down the centre, right along the length. New belt ordered, turned out it was 2 belts, split right down the middle. So check this if not already, they get neglected as out of sight and not a 5 min job to do(well not with bumper on anyway!). If this snaps it could do a whole lot of damage, inc taking the fans out!
Tensioner was seized to, freed off though. Its not spring loaded like some on BMWs for example.

I have a slight oil leak........deep joy. Its wet under and appears more from rear. Again reading up as you do, seems a higher chance of the rocker cover gasket, PCV or the oil filter housing gasket (looks like a figure 8). More chance of that than rear crank seal anyway. Its not dripping, its not actually using any oil or what is noticeable on the dip stick. I will go as far as saying its almost impossible to trace. Many use 0.5L per 1000 miles which again is classed as "normal" . However i am not on 5/40 anyway. Will wait for weather to ease up and start at the top. As no idea where the slight leak is coming from. No rush as i pretty much know, if i do the rocker covers(so to speak) they can leak again anyway, just like subaru and the flat 4's........but those are a pita to do. As with high pressure switch, i kind of have a gut feeling its the oil filter 8 seal........cheaper than engine out lol. If it was the rear seal, then obv might as well do chains to if engine coming out. That i want to obviously avoid and right now overkill as its running sweet.

Cheers:icon thumright: