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What have you done to your A4 b6 today?

krisavant Mar 18, 2014

  1. Henry Powell

    Henry Powell Henry Powell Photographer

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    Today I fitted some Sline sideblades! Filmed the process because, as easy as it is, people still get confused!
     
    winterrB6 and DieselJake like this.
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  3. winterrB6

    winterrB6 Registered User

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    Hit a rabbit on the way to work this morning and lost a votex bumper grille. Then decided to use the spray tint I ordered a few months ago :whistle2:

    80E113DF-CF96-446B-83CA-45104739C488.jpeg
     
    DieselJake likes this.
  4. mattyboyc

    mattyboyc B6 Veteran

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    Shame about the grill, they are usually so hard to get hold of.
     
  5. winterrB6

    winterrB6 Registered User

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    Yeah they usually go for £50-150 :wtf: needless to say I won’t be replacing it unless one comes up mega cheap!
     
  6. DieselJake

    DieselJake Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Looks quite cool and unique with the tint, do the indicators come through amberish? That's the only thing that puts me off... although mine are black now so no chance of then going red :playful:
     
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  7. winterrB6

    winterrB6 Registered User

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    Cheers dude. Yeah they show through amber enough :busted cop: :tearsofjoy:
     
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  8. GrahamS4

    GrahamS4 Guest

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    What did I do to my B6 S4 today? I sold it, I think it's fair to say the seller put one over on me, not being a mechanic, and there were several things that came to light after I'd bought it that any scrupulous dealer would have sorted out prior to sale. I fell out of love with the car and once that happened it was time to bite the bullet, suck up the loss and move on so i'm back in the Mercedes fold with an R230 SL. My SL350.JPG
     
  9. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Think I’ve fixed the hissing sound.. the hose coming from the turbo to the IC bridge was very loose.. today I swapped it to a new one.. even increased the diameter, so looking forward to a few more horses
    [​IMG]

    Think the culprit is this little hole, from it moving back and forth...
    [​IMG]


    Now I need to find out why the steering shakes around a certain speed and increases when brakes get hot
     
    DieselJake likes this.
  10. mattyboyc

    mattyboyc B6 Veteran

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    Post up the reg then so nobody on here gets lumberd with a lemon of a S4!!
     
  11. Adrian R

    Adrian R Registered User

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    It is not nice when that happens.

    That Merc looks mint! Hope you really enjoy it.
     
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  13. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Well, that hole wasn’t the culprit.. still hisses periodically when it reaches high gear boost..

    Think I’ll try to take of the pipe that crosses the engine bay, as I removed it when installing the engine heater. Must be something out of place there since it started after that..
    Also had the air temp sensor out.. perhaps it’s that which isn’t sitting flush
     
  14. Adrian R

    Adrian R Registered User

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    Can you perhaps rig up some kind of smoke tester and blow smoke through the induction system and see where it is leaking?
     
  15. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Don’t know.. I’m thinking of taking it to the same garage where I’ll get the brakes fixed.
    They have a dyno.. A bit easier to find leaks with the hood opened and doing +60mph, when the car is in situ..
    But first I’ll take it apart and put it back together.. Because of the holidays, they’ll open Tuesday
     
  16. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Found another reason why it makes the hissing sound.. missing the blanking plate from under the EGR...
    Why it all of a sudden start to make the noise, I don’t know.
    As i recall I never fitted it as the vacuum hose has been clamped.
    (It’s not oil, it’s sealant)
    [​IMG]


    Also tried my dial gauge to check the brakes..
    Think they need to be lathed
    Question is if they were like that from beginning or something warped them after installation

     
  17. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Pads look like this
    [​IMG]

    Done buying ATE
    Unless it’s the hub/carrier I’ll buy new discs and pads.. Thinking of Textar as those are installed in the rear
     
  18. Nathen

    Nathen Registered User

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    Trying to find out why im getting moisture and water in my drivers side headlight :/ only thing i could find was the fact the bulb cover is missing. [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  19. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Nope..
    Egr off mod since I bought the car.
    Been running with delete pipe also, but when it was time for MOT I fitted the egr back
     
  20. Gazwould

    Gazwould Registered User

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    Most leave the tube in place and put a 1.5mm slip in blank at the base near exhaust manifold .

    Looks standard .

    No leaks .

    Easier to fit as two bolts only require slackening .
     
  21. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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  22. soldier4313

    soldier4313 A4 Avant B9 2.0 Tdi

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    So today was a fuel, air and pollen filter change and managed to snap the dipstick. A trip to my local German Audi garage and one ordered for €5 and also picked up a filter housing removal tool from my local Garage for €9 so oil change tomorrow before the TUV (German MOT). Fingers crossed
     
  23. Roland Wong

    Roland Wong Registered User

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    Did you have to buy that formed hose or were you able to use generic hose?
     
  24. QuattroCalum

    QuattroCalum Registered User

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    I bought a turbo inlet pipe complete with n75 and all hoses and pipes included.
    The pipe is a different diameter at both ends, you could use a generic hose as long as it matched the smaller diameter and would stretch to the larger one as well.

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
  25. QuattroCalum

    QuattroCalum Registered User

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    Do you need one, I have a spare?

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
  26. Jonni3

    Jonni3 Is making it faster a bad thing ?

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    It has been an age since I did anything to the cab so today I did the ignition accessory live mod for the head unit, so when I take the key out the power is cut to the head unit as opposed to it still being live & able to turn on without the need for the ignition accessory .
    Repaired some curb rash to a wheel & buffed out a paint scrap on the drivers rear corner that some really thoughtful Muppet left .....
    Came across a 3.2 quattro cab yesterday, my god it sounded awesome, wondered why I didn't go for one then remembered the £555 yearly tax & ridiculous mpg.
     
  27. QuattroCalum

    QuattroCalum Registered User

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    Removed the wiper arms to paint them as all the paint had come off the alloy part and it looked terrible.
     
  28. Roland Wong

    Roland Wong Registered User

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    No, I’m good...thanks!
     
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  29. joinerman

    joinerman Registered User

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    Put the summers back on, probably snow in a week or two, :whistle2:
     
  30. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Replaced lower arm, after I broke it when changing bearing and hub...

    Wondering if it’s meant to be this “loose”

    It’s torqued down.

    I know it’s only held by that metal cylinder, and has a rubber bushing around..




    “Old” arm inner bushing
    [​IMG]
     
  31. SemedoB6

    SemedoB6 Black and white a4

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    I would assume they have to have some play for when you go over bumps and all that..

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     
  32. QuattroCalum

    QuattroCalum Registered User

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    No it shouldn't be that loose.

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
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  34. SL11CKK

    SL11CKK Registered User

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    They seem to be ok. There will most likely be creases, but as long as there isn’t any splits then its all good.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  35. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    The one fitted today is new, the one being replaced is about a half year old..
    So both “new”

    I’m hunting for reasons why the steering wheel has slight judder when braking and hitting 80 kph and down to 50 kph
     
  36. QuattroCalum

    QuattroCalum Registered User

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    It looks to me as if the chassis mount point where the control arm fits in have been spread apart, leaving extra play, the rubber bush should take up the play but there should be no movement between the metal sleeve and the chassis mount point.

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
     
  37. boffin486

    boffin486 Registered User

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    I changed the broken rear ABS ring (quattro) and Camber Bolts - after buying the front rings to check if they work on the back - yes they do!
    There are no mentions anywhere I could find on ANY search engine on whether the REAR rings can be changed.
    Even the Audi main dealer with the might of the parts & service departments couldn't answer the question. They merely want to sell a complete driveshaft assembly to you. The ring is NOT shown on their system as a seperate part. BUT it is actually the same as the front ones - which are readily available!
    Anyway, here's a few pics to show how I did it.

    I had to cut the old Camber bolts with a saw blade down either side of the rubber mount (there is actually room to get at it with a hack saw if you're careful & use just the right angle. However, still had to burn out the rubber & then batter the mount casing out of the arm......

    Compilation 1.jpg These are the new Bushes, The New Camber bolt & bush with remnants of the old bits & the Bolt marked up so it starts in the same place as the old one.

    Compilation 2.jpg A combination of long bolt, thick washers & appropriately sized sockets used to pull the new bush into place on the arm

    Compilation 1.jpg
    Broken Ring, New Replacement - Ring needs to be heated to go on easily.

    Compilation 2.jpg
    ABS ring in place, Just reassembly of hub with new camber bolt required.

    End result - no ABS warning light & brake system fully functioning again. :thumbs up: Dead chuffed.........
     
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  38. boffin486

    boffin486 Registered User

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    I agree with quattrocalum, The lower suspension arm bushes rely on their inners being firmly clamped so they can't move - the rubber does the 'twisting' required for the suspension control. Are you sure the bolt is properly tight?
     
  39. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    It sits tight, and I can’t generate any movement when it’s reassembled

    I tried to hammer one side in, as I thought, like mentioned, that it had been spread a part.. didn’t help.. Perhaps I didn’t do it enough
     
  40. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Also the steering rods can’t sit in place when taken off.. they just fall down.. don’t know if that means inner rods are worn.. there’s no play or sound when pushing the wheel
     
  41. boffin486

    boffin486 Registered User

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    Steering judder - its always difficult to pinpoint a cause, it may be as simple as wheel balance but is likely caused by a weak/broken/worn suspension bush/ball joint or track rod end.
    The suspension arms on VAG vehicles are all supposed to operate from a 'fixed point' which is where all the bushes should be tightened up.
    This is generally where the vehicles weight is fully on its wheels - assembly instructions always refer to leaving all bolts slightly loose until the weight of the car is back on the wheels, which is when the final torquing up should be done.
    The top arms are the only exception & should be mounted onto the top mounts at a specific angle and then torqued up before reassembling onto car. This is because you can't get to the bolts once the top mounts are in place. These are the only bushes that need to be tightened up fully before assembly.
    If the bushes are tightened in the 'wrong place' (i.e with suspension hanging or partially jacked up) then the bushes cannot do their job properly & indeed may fail prematurely as they are flexed too much whilst the car is moving.
    If a joint is left loose (as one of yours appears to be) then the bush has no effect at all as it merely rotates on the bolt without any resistance. The lower arms should be an 'interference fit' into their mounts - indeed gentle tapping may be required to get them into position.
    It is normal for the steerings arms to 'droop' when uncoupled from the uprights - pull them back & fore a bit - there shouldn't be any noticable movement apparent & the ball joints should be fairly stiff to move as any play can lead to wheel judder.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2018
    Wahlstrom likes this.
  42. Jonni3

    Jonni3 Is making it faster a bad thing ?

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    Well she went for her mot yesterday & failed ..... Cracked front sub frame, (that'll teach me to avoid speed humps), other than that she's all good :blush:.
     
  43. Wahlstrom

    Wahlstrom Registered User

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    Took it to the garage today.
    He couldn’t use his lathe on my discs.. couldn’t reach.. I saw the machine, it was old school and from back in the day when discs sat behind the bearing..

    I’m taking the discs to a new garage that handles them off the car...

    They both have runout at 7/100mm, so a big reason why they shake... measured at the garage

    Still, they are new ATE discs fitted January..
     

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